dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Just plunked $ done for a CTS-V LS6 400HP with 6 speed manual tranny out of a 2005.
I'll pick it up in two weeks.
I couldn't find the emission tag that had the California requirements since I'm going to get this smog legal. Did I miss it, or was it gone before I got there?
It had a federal tag on it.
I already started talking with a smog referee a week ago. I just want to make sure this is right.

The yard is giving me everything I need lines, harness, all the ancillary parts everything excepts the cats.
Maybe I made a mistake there, not sure yet, pretty costly hmmm.

It's a drive by cable, so I think I’m good there.

I have a guy in Indio that's going to do the install; he can have the harness done for the integration deeds, speedo, tach, should I find a 4th gen instrument cluster?

18” C5 Magnesium rims on all 4 corners
BMR Sub Braces
PA RACING K member,
Koni Yellows
Spohn Coil over kits, deep towers, several springs rates in stock.
Steering Brace
Strut Tower Brace
Spohn tube A-Arms
KORE3 C6 Z06 front brake set up, 7075 hubs, with bearing preset config.
DBA500 14” front rotors

I’m sure I have to dump my 700R modified Spohn cross member for another.

Chris Alston Fab 9 custom floater;
Coleman racing aluminum hub assemblies
31 Spline gun drilled axles
Aluminum Ford 9” center section, 350 gears, I still have the option on gearing thru this week.
Mittler Bros modified 4 link brackets into LCA mounts.
Coleman 11” rear rotors
Kore3 C6 Z06 rear brake set up.
QA1 rear coilers
Founders adjustable LCA and pan-hard bars.
I have a aluminum driveshaft, maybe I should get the CTS one?

I need to know what needs to be done with the fuel regulation, fuel pump, gas tank?

Looking into getting a SCCA approved cage.
I have NRG seats, and quick release wheel with a lock.

I’m sure I am missing a category or two and this is going to cost me a pretty something and my girlfriend.

I just want to finish this car,
GOAL 450HP or more 2995LBS or less with sound deadening material, two seats minimum, and AC(I live in the desert).

I figure this would be attractive for a Third Gen, smog legal LS6, and a SCCA cage.
I still am looking at a carbon fiber hood, lexan front and back glass to get me there on weight.

Anyone that’s been there done this feel free to insert help where it needs to be.
Thanks,
I feel blessed to do this.
Dennis

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Since I am converting auto to 6 speed manual, I need a pedal set.
Hawks said any 4th gen set will fit?
True or false?
Dennis
Been a good learning curve for sure!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You will need all of the emissions equipment the CTS had, including the evap recovery system, which I believe is on the tank with a line to the engine. Not sure if it had an AIR system, but if it did, you'll need that, too.

You might be able to get by with a 4th gen LS1 tank and evap system. Not sure if there were differences in the pressure sensing system, or if the CTS PCM will be happy with that tank. If the 4th gen and CTS tanks operate on the same basic principles, the fuel gauge sender is part of the emissions system, the signal going to the PCM, not the fuel level gauge. The PCM then sends a signal to the fuel level gauge. 4th gen cluster tends to "fix" the incompatibility of the fuel gauge and sender. But, again, I don't know if the CTS system operates the same way.

4th gen pedals will "fit", but they aren't a bolt-in.

Chuck!

You'll need to get the CTSv 6-speed converted to a GTO/fbody clone, which requires replacing the mainshaft, shift linkage, and tailhousing among some other stuff. 85MikeTPI has a writeup on in.

Your v motor is also drive by wire, but can be converted to drive by cable with a new cable driven throttle body.

The v oil pan will fit too, but will sit lower than the k-member which doesnt seem ideal. You'll want a fbody oil pan, pick up tube, baffle, and dipstick/tube.

You'll also need fbody motor mounts.

I'm going to test fit all the front accessories hopefully this weekend to make sure they work OK in the thirdgen (I'm swapping in a 04 LS6/T56).

Chuck

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Hi Chuck,
Thanks for the heads up on the oil pan, I have a PA racing K member, Kenny is whipping up some adapter plates, my buddy has a F body Oil pan.

On the tailsection, I heard this before and about went crazy.
Luckily the mustang world saved the day...
Dynotech makes a driveshaft to avoid this issue.
Flanged front aluminum driveshaft!
Here's the link for others...and a pic.
http://shop.gforce1320.com/product.sc?productId=197
Late,
Dennis

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Thank you Five7 kid.
I forwarded your post to Chris at Custom Built Motors.
http://www.cbmmotorsports.com/
They are doing a custom wiring harness, that will come into play as he programs the PCM.
They make some pretty nice harnesses, he is incoporating the wiring to include a 2000 gauge cluster, one of our beloved members RAMAIR turned me on to the cluster set up.
I appreciate the input!
Dennis

Chuck!

Thats a good find, thanks for sharing! I had my trans rebuilt/beefed up by Mike and he converted the parts over for a bit more than that, but either way seems like it will get the job done.

Some hot rod guys prefer the V oil pan, I was able to trade for an fbody one which saved me some money, sounds like you're in a similar situation

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Hi Chuck,
I'm curious to the preference on the V pan?
TXS
Dennis

lunati397

that ctsv is drive by wire so I would just get the adapter pedal


Your going to have a bad *** car when done please do a good build thread

lunati397

also if you decide that you want more computer for the money PM me and I can get you a good price on a holley HP system it will be just barely more than getting HP tuners yet you will have boost control (if you decide to go that way) 2 step 3 step and 4 stages of nitrous along with its own wideband O2 and self tuning fuel tables

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Yes, it is drive by wire...LOL
When I bought it they told me it was drive by cable, and I thought GOOOOD!
I discovered it was drive by wire, and that actually even better, Chris @ CBM is setting me up, I have since snagged the CTS pedal and the control module for it.

I think I'm need of a cage for protection....

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Unless you're actually racing at sanctioned events that require cages, you're far safer without the cage. Ever seen a watermelon hit a steel bar? Theres a reason the factory seats and belts allow your body to flail around. It allows your body much more time to decelerate and dissipate energy. In a harness all of that will go into your harness, which is fine, but unless you're wearing a helmet with a HANS your neck will take all the force of your head bouncing around. Helmets add more weight to your head, too. Without a helmet you're at risk of hitting your head on the hoop bars and instantly killing yourself. Imagine a rear end collision.

There are ways to make cages managably safe on the street, but it requires a custom fabricated cage specifically designed to give you as much room as possible around your head, and even that is no guarantee.

I know cages are cool and all that, but they are very dangerous on the street. A cage is meant to prevent your car from crushing you in it or to prevent other cars from entering the passenger compartment and are great safety devices at high speeds when your other option is certain death and dismemberment. At lower street speeds you're much safer without them. Padding the bars is for comfort and ergonomics and perhaps toa ssist a helmet in protecting your head. But padding, even fancy SFI padding will not protect your raw exposed melon when it hits that bar. Will you ever have passengers in the car? Do you have children that will be in the car?

As I said, you can make the main hoop a little further away, and get a nice 4 point harness and non tilt seat to keep you from flailing around, and you can make it tolerable. But just make sure you're aware of the potential safety drawbacks. If you're required to have a cage by the NHRA or SCCA to do what you want with the car, that's one thing, but doing it for your own safety while driving around is another entirely and requires a little more consideration to make sure it's really what you want. A cage rated for wheel to wheel racing is definitely not something you want in a 100 percent street car.

Also be careful about harnesses, many are not DOT legal.

TPI TERR

iTrader: (9)

Sweet ! missed out on your magnesium wheels that were for sale . Even thoug they don't fit over my brakes I wanted them lol

Chuck!

Here are some part numbers you may need/want for the swap if you're thinking about upgrading the dual mass flywheel and clutch, as well as the fbody oil pan parts you'll need aside from the pan itself.

LS7 clutch kit - (GM PD: pkc6ls7clutchkit, SD: SDLS7CK, summit: 24255748 + 12571611)
LS7 slave cylinder - 24237634 (have to bend the hard line going to the cylinder, but easy to do)
LS clutch bolts: pressure plate: 12561465 or ARP 134-2201 12561465-6 (need 6)
LS flywheel bots: 11569956 or ARP 330-2802 (need 6)
Fbody oil pan gasket - 12612350
Fbody windage tray - 12558253
Fbody dip stick - 12551581
Fbody dip stick tube - 12551577
Fbody o-ring for oil pump pickup - 12557752
CTSv / LS6 Pilot bearing - 12557583
Clutch alignment tool
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...110944&ci_sku=
Clutch speed bleeder - tick for 5th gen camaro

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

I haven't posted in a while, I guess this should be the spot where I update and post.
The LS6 is installed with Tremec mm12 from the CTS V
Chris Alston ford fab 9 inch housing/floater built 370 aluminum trye-trac from strange with Aluminum Coleman hubs, gun drilled axles, the drive plates are steel.
This has been a tremendous effort to say the least...
I went from the 42 dual mass flywheel to a Monster stage II, 28LB flywheel with a Kevlar pad.
In keeping the CTS V mm12 I a did slight mod to the adapter plate used on GTO's and newer Camaro's and used a 1350 Mustang front flange set up to pair with the adapter...
More to come.
Dennis

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Crossmember homemade, started with a Hawks crossmember then hacked it up by adding the side mounts to add body mount strength with extra holes.
the adpater was from Kollar racing for $149
More to come.
Dennis[/quote]

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Modified UB machine panhard rod bracket.
Had them send me three units unwelded so I could pick and choose.
More to come.
Dennis[/quote][/quote]

STREETDEMON

it will be interesting to see you get to that 2995 or less number.

are you running an alston torque arm?

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Yes 2995 will be a serious challenge, I will be weighing the car when it comesback from Spintech Thursday.

The Torque Arm was home made.
Chris Alston at that time was preparing one for sale, I have looked at the design and decided to move on.
Another sold me a torque arm that was just not practical, so I made one.

STREETDEMON

looks good, the longer arm will suit you better for the "canyon carving". appears to be very sturdy. 2995 will be nuts, lots of fiberglass and lexan. check out VFN.

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Rear shot Founders panhard rod, and a modified support bar...
BEFORE AND AFTER >>>LOL
Actually after doing the panhard rod adjuster the original founders support bar would have worked stock.
But with keeping smog legal with the EVAP Plastic gas tank out of a 02 Camaro it eroded room for the exhaust in the back.
The weight ratio prior to all of this was front to rear 55-45.
So I decided to make the exhaust shorter and bring it out in front of the Right rear. There were several guys who do the exhaust, Spintech was selected because there are 20 miles away, he has every config under the sun, and he does extreme quality work...

cam-

Not sure how I missed this before. Sweet build! Nice and clean, and white... cuz you know white Camaros are the baddest *** naturally everyone knows this :P

STREETDEMON

haha, cam, you may be on to something here. i can think of a few other cars in that shade on this forum that are pretty healthy......

IROCgiraffe

iTrader: (3)

Sweet build!

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

subscribed.., sweet build!

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I weighed in Sunday

Original weight 3264 with 110lbs deading material
New weight 3348, I gained 84LBS throught this conversion.
That was going from a 2.8 V-6/700R stock rear end to the LS6 M12 and a nine inch floater...
Is what it is, for now....LOL

STREETDEMON

that's still pretty slim. my fully loaded z28 with rattletrap fatmat and 8.8 rear is 3440 full of fuel.

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Full of fuel, @ approx. 6LBS per Gallon is good.
I had one gallon on both times I weighed in.

And now for some Spintech exhaust pics....

STREETDEMON

that looks nice, they did a good job with the merge. i liked the spintech sportsman exhaust i had on my el camino.

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

And more...

Richboll

Nice job..I want to see how this turns out!

Mailman818

nice to see this coming along dennis. cant wait to see the finished product. -Aaron

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Just finished my fuel rail covers.
I couldn't bring myself to the plastic Corvette ones, although some are very nice.
The V Emblems are the only resemblance of The CTS V LS6.
I cold Carbon Fiber cover these, down the road if desired.
I'm just leaving it at that, trying to keep it clean looking.

Warnd

Very nice build...super clean work with nice parts!

Really like the way those covers look on there but not a huge fan of the silver color. I think that black would pull the engine bay together more, but your idea of carbon fiber would probably look even more badass than the black I had in mind.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Sharp looking covers

gbeaird

iTrader: (1)

Nice work! I love the exhaust work. Is everything going through one Spintech muffler? I guess with the cats, that will be enough, especially since you don't have any sound regulations to contend with.

That K-member looks to be a bit light-duty for what you are going to put it through. Few aftermarket K-members are up to the challenge of lateral G loads. Keep a close eye on that K-member when you start to drive the car. Don't get rid of your factory K-member quite yet..

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Ok finished the hood...
Originally got it from a guy named nick on the forum here in Indiana.
Started out silver and black....
Now it's onto the spoiler, I need something distinct!

cosmick

I'm doing a clean swap also, I'm using the '00-'04 'vette ULEV cats, with the E.O. number, catalyticconvertersonline has them from Catco for $211 each, they're 2.5" which works for my immediate plans.
The '04 GTO stock CAI is said to be a good fit. And Cali-legal.
Trying to get an '01 Z28 tank with everything is impossible, the evap canister is separate and usually gone, as new is around $ 100. There's a solenoid, and a tank pressure sensor, both separate from the tank, and also separate from the sending unit, and from each other. It adds up.
Plus there's another evap solenoid at the engine. Yours may differ, but you may benefit from what I've learned.
In my swap, I'm using '01 Z28 exhaust manifolds, and routing the driver-side exhaust as a mirror to the stock passenger side, then a Flowmaster Y into a single 3". So with the cats relatively far from the manifolds, I found there are other O2 sensors with more powerful heating elements. I have the Bosch part number in my files if you want it. I'm using them for my after-cat O2s. They're under $ 40 each.
My swap isn't needing A.I.R., but I kept the EGR.
Lemme know if you want that part number.

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Ok I made a diffuser...
Base plate .050" aluminum with carbon fiber fins attached with angle.
Side plates to follow, I bought a universal spliteer here locally to carve , but I'm thinking I can use the material for a splitter...LOL
The build link... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...-diffuser.html

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Added my spoiler to the mix...

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Hi, It's been a awhile, if you still have those part numbers, that may come in handy, I qm about to enter round two with exhaust and E-missions...

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Now a Front Feeder with an oil cooler.....
Ran the Roval at Fontucky(Fontana) started to get warm, I hated that the car was a bottom feeder, SOLVED>>>>>>
Now I can make a front spoiler for the track that is inches off the track surface
YAY!!!

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Wow that spoiler is pretty sweet. I feel it would need some major body mods to flow well though. Possibly a diffuser.

Jay

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Did you look at the pics above the spoiler...A Diffuser!

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Added Headlight Covers, I will paint the dzus buttons black and use black pop rivets after looking at the them, then it's time for the tinted covers.
The brackets were modded racecraft hood mounts, got tired of losing covers on the freeway, no more, plus I can change between clear and tinted.

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

If anyone is interested, Hawks now makes a DBW drive by wire TAC bracket for third gens.
$50 and your cruising...I bought it off Ebay, it was cheaper with the free shipping.
http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/82...t-ls2-ls3-ls7/
I ordered one because my pedal was jacked up and difficult to do heel and toe work.
I have TAC from a 2005 CTS V, I'm sure if isn't exact it is a good place to start, it looks like a nice flat platform...

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

LOL I looked through them and totally missed that!

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I made my own bracket, it was definitely trial and error to get just right (LS2 GTO pedal).

dennisschreuer

iTrader: (3)

Sway bar,
This car started out with a stock 30MM solid sway bar with 12.5" arms equated to 285 LBS of force(Speedway Eng. Chart).
With slicks this thing swayed badly to due good grip.
Went with a Speedway Engineering set up, so I can know what kind of force I am exerting, selected a 49 spline hollow bar with 12.5 length 30 degree arms(measured from the links (rod end) to spline, (straight as the crow flies) which gave me 573 LBS of force, I'll back that up with a couple of in bars between the 275 and the 573 for when I get to the track again for final selection.
I'm sure there is flex involved, but i'll get there.....

scooter

iTrader: (11)

That's cool that you figured that out, I have been wanting to do a splined bar on a couple of my cars but never really looked into it. How much $$$ did that run you just for parts?