Warnd

Thanks for weighing in on this one guys. I really appreciate the different opinions from people who have all traveled down this road already.

To be honest im really torn here on this decision because there are advantages and disadvantages to both. On the one hand the jegster is definitely in my wheel house for being able to install it by myself. It is also cheaper which is a nice plus. The only thing discouraging me here is the road noise people talk about. After all this is going to be a street car mostly. Anyone think its possible to put a thin piece of isolation foam between the mount and the tunnel of the car? Would that help to cut down on some of this noise?

The BMR looks like a good option but as stated before I wont be able to install it myself and might lose a little exhaust clearance. Its also pricer, but I feel it might be the better performing piece (just my uneducated opinion...no real facts here haha). I do have subframe connectors waiting to be installed on the car as well but I was going to hold off on that for a while. Anyone think I should just have someone weld in the torque arm and subframe connectors at the same time once the car is up and running? Im am just really leary about bringing it to a shop to have them do these things and trust that they will do it the right way. Really apprehensive that they would weld something in the wrong spot or something lol. I know this is probably pretty unrational but ive been burned in the past by bad shops and dont really like other people doing large jobs like that.

I dont know guess I still have some thinking to do. Worked on the car after work today. Small update coming later tonight. Thanks again for the advice.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

That's what I was thinking you could try. I was thinking Neoprene between the two pieces of metal. There's no way it could make the noise any worse... at least in my mind. You could also put down some Dynomat type sound deadener inside the car to help with the noise as well. I doubt you could make all of the noise go away, but I'm sure you could cut down on it quite a bit with a little work.

PAFORM350

Awesome to see your project moving along

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

I took mine to a body shop to have the subframes and trak pak welded in. I don't have a welder, and I was staying with my parents in Missouri at the time. The closest place that would rent me a gas Mig welder was in St. Louis or Kansas City. I called up Larry Larson, and he agreed to do it, but his shop was a little too far away.

This was the best that I could do by crawling on the ground instead of throwing the car up on a lift. The ground clearance is pretty good, the exhaust clearance great. This exhaust was done long ago and not meant for going over this crossmember. That will change this winter.








I don't know about putting something in between the Jegster arm and the tunnel, but maybe putting some dynomat over the tunnel. I'm fairly sure that on any of the arms that bolt to their own crossmember you are going to get more noise than a tailshaft mounted one. On that note, I believe that a rod end will give more noise than a poly bushing. Mine had more noise than before, but it's not terrible.

Warnd

Thanks for those pics! The exhaust clearance looks great once you go over that crossmember. The crossmember doesnt even look all that low in you pictures. Definitely not making this decision easy for me haha

Warnd

Real quick update...nothing too exciting because I didnt have a ton of time after work before the rain came. Managed to get the springs back in the car and the struts installed and torqued down. Two lower bolts for the struts have to be 125 ft lbs and then 120 degree turn after to stretch the bolts. Upper strut nut is 45 ft lbs I believe but Id have to double check on that one.

Spring installed again:



This is the top nut for the strut:



Here are just two pics of the front sway bar reinstalled with the wonder bar underneath it. Cant remember the torque for these bolts but I can look if anyone needs it:





Going to try to keep banging out small projects like this during the week after work. Little by little it will all come together. I can see the end in sight. Last real big project left to do is to get that 9 inch out of the trans am and into the camaro. Little intimidated about ripping all that out at the moment but ill figure it out when I get there. Stay tuned

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, like I said, if the trak pak had been on when the exhaust was done, it wouldn't be an issue. It doesn't need much in order to clear, and with those triangle tabs it gives you a lot of play before you burn in any welds. The exhaust was done on this car something like 4 years ago or there abouts. I'm changing it all fairly soon, the headers leak, the exhaust was done with compression bends, 3" is probably too small, and it has a flowmaster.

STREETDEMON

i have fatmat rattletrap covering my entire floor pan. really the jegster doesn't make that much noise, but then again that's all opinion. like stated above, the trak pak or the jegster will both introduce more noise into the interior of the car because they tie into the cars frame/floor plan. the trak pak hangs down pretty low, keep that in mind. that's why i went with the jegster. on my roads i could never get away with the trak pak.

both are good products and will serve you well. these cars are noisey by nature, you get a lot of road noise. that's part of owning a sports car, you push the cadillac luxury to the side.

Warnd

Yeah im definitely leaning towards the jegster as being the better option for me. Guess Ill just have to go ahead and order it. Believe me, I by no means expect to have cadillac luxury in a sports car, but at some point I plan on taking this car on very long road trips so anything I can do to minimize road noise will be taken into consideration. Eventually I will put sound deadening in the car, but that will have to hold off until the winter when the car is already up and running.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Maybe my exhaust is too loud but I havent heard any extra noise from my jegster TA or LCA/panhard rod ends. Then again, my creature comforts end at leather seats

Warnd

Got another small update to share with you guys. Been working on it here and there when I can. All of the little work sessions are starting to build up into some progress. Nothing too interesting but I took some pictures for those following along. Managed to get all of the new Moog steering components out of the Transam and into the Camaro. Also managed to get the rear end ripped out of the camaro so that I can get ready to swap gas tanks and rear ends. The rear end was a bigger pain in the *** than I thought it would be. Actually took me two days of small sessions to get it completely out. Took me a while to figure out where the top strut nuts were hiding (under the carpet right behind the rear seats), and it also took me a while to get the brakes sorted so I could drop the rear end without worrying about messing those up. Still havent managed to get the hole cut for the transmission but it is definitely coming up on the list. Anyway here are some progress pics:

New Moog Steering components fresh out of the Trans am:



Couple of pics of them installed in the car:



Passenger side:



Drivers side:



All together now...:



Some pictures from removing the rear end from the Camaro. Not a lot of pictures or details here because I was cursing my way through yanking this thing out today. Turns out picking up the rear end by yourself and carrying it around is not the best idea...

Put a jack under the rear while I was getting ready to lower it:



Once you drop the rear end enough the springs basically fall out. Much easier job than the front springs ( not that they were even hard anyways).



Once you disconnect everything necessary underneath the car, you can go find the top strut nuts that are under the carpet behind the rear seats. Here are some pictures of where those are located:







Once you get those and everything else it falls right out:





Well thats it for now. Should have some more progress throughout the week. Ill feel much better once the rear ends and gas tanks are swapped over. Still feels like I have a never ending list of things to do, but the end is definitely in sight and I am really motivated to get this done.

Leave off with a random question for you guys. Does anyone know what size studs I am supposed to use for the transmission mount? From the little research I did, it looks like I am supposed to use a combination of studs and nuts instead of bolts for the mount. If anyone has that information I would really appreciate it.

Stay tuned!

Warnd

Whats up guys...still plugging along over here, but unfortunately have ran into a bit of a snag over here and am counting on you guys to bail me out. The current project that I have been working on is getting the hole for the shifter cut/getting the skulte crossmember finalized and torqued down. Cutting the hole for the shifter went very smoothly, but when it came time to bolt the skulte crossmember in, I ran into some pain in the *** problems. With the current transmission mount that I have the transmission is wedged up against the transmission tunnel of the car. This cant be good right? lol I can only imagine the type of vibrations this would cause. I would assume there has to be some sort of buffer space between the transmission and transmission tunnel. I dont know if it is an issue of having the wrong transmission mount or wrong transmission crossmember, but something is definitely not right. So I am coming to all of you wise veterans for some of that expert advice. Im going to put some pictures of the recent progress so that you guys can get a better idea of what I am talking about.

So first I picked up the transmission so that the shifter hole was flush with the transmission tunnel. Then I traced around the outside of the transmission to get an idea of where the hole had to go:




Then we drilled two holes at the back corners of the transmission so that we could measure the proper distance up top and attempt to make some clean cuts:



Then I realized that the plate for the automatic shifter was still there so out came the sawsall:





We then measured out the hole that we wanted to cut so that we would have ample room. Might have went a little too big on the hole, but I am not unhappy with the way it came out:



Bam big hole:



Now to where I am running into problems. You might not be able to tell from the above picture but the transmission is really wedged up against the transmission tunnel near the back by the shifter. This is with the skulte crossmember and transmission mount installed. Here are some pictures of what that looks like:





Hole for the transmission mount bolt doesnt quite line up, but could that be because the tranny is wedged up against the top?



There is one more shot trying to show how close to the top it is. I am really not even sure if the transmission mount I am using is ideal for this setup. It just came with the old t56 I used to have so I figured it was the stock camaro mount. Should I try to switch to a stock rubber one? Something is not right in this setup for sure. Either the mount or the crossmember I guess. Couldnt be the engine mount setup causing a problem could it?

Any help you guys could give me on this would be greatly appreciated.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Can you use a different mount? Did that mount come with the aftermarket crossmember? I would put an angle gauge on the harmonic balancer pulley and see what it is.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Exactly where is it hitting at? On top of the trans where the shifter rail is or on the bell housing? I couldn't tell by the pics.

Warnd

Its hard to tell but from what I can tell its hitting at the back of the transmission just before the shifter hole opening. Thanks for replying...good idea to check the angle of everythin.

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

That mount looks way too tall. Give the original a try and measure the angle. The balancer is a good place, the oil pan rail is also another good one. I picked up my angle finder at sears for fairly cheap.

Warnd

Unfortunately this is the only mount that I have right now. It came attatched to my old t56 that ended up being junk. I am absolutely willing to order the right mount but dont know which one would be best to try. Does anyone have a partnumber or link that I could grab to make sure I get the right one?

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I used this one with no issues. The height is listed as 3in, not sure how that compares to the poly mount that you are using.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pt...t/model/camaro

If you decide to go with a stock type rubber mount be careful, most of them are horrible quality from the parts stores and will break in no time. If you want a rubber one I would try to get a factory gm one.

mwfrels

My vote if for the rubber OEM 4th-gen LS1/T56 mounts. They are quite short compared to the quite tall aftermarket poly mounts. They isolate the interior from driveline noise well. They also have built in interlock design to that if the rubber separates the tail of the tranny doesn't whip around. Used good condition ones can regularly be scored on the bay of fleas quite inexpensive. Use search string: 02 Camaro Firebird Transmission Mount T56.

M

Warnd

Thanks for replying guys, ideally I would like to use an OEM mount but I dont know how I feel about buying a used one on ebay. I guess there is no way to get this part from gm? Maybe I can try GMpartsdirect?

I measured the mount that I have on my transmission right now and its only about 2 inches tall, so i dont know how much smaller the OEM one is going to be.

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

Rockauto.com dude.

mwfrels

GM# 22174970. GMPartsDirect will end up costing you ~$80-90 when their outrageous shipping is included. RockAuto as khulsebus suggested is better choice for an aftermarket piece. Or Autozone, Advance, or O'Rielly, or others. Just look up 98-02 LS1 T56 F-Body application.

M

Warnd

Ok guys so I have another frustrating day with the car to share with you guys. Decided to take a trip down to the parts store to see if the OEM tranny mount would help out my situation. Long story short...it didnt. At this point, I dont know if it is a problem with the skulte crossmember or the tranny mount. Im going to post some pictures of whats going on, but it seems as if the tranny is either a hair too far back or the transmission crossmember is a little too far foward. At this point I have three different plans of attack for moving forward. Let me know what makes the most sense.

1. try the prothane transmission mount. This is apparently shorter than the other two I have tried.

2. Scrap the skulte crossmember and go with one of the options from Hawksthirdgen.

3. Have a buddy of mine weld on some additional metal at the rear of the crossmember so that we can make the hole larger that the bolt has to pass through (will post a picture of how much it is missing by)

Anyways...pics:

OEM Mount on the right next to energy suspension mount on the left. They are roughly the same height, but the OEM is a tad shorter:



Bolted on the tranny:



This is the bolt going through the hole in the skulte crossmember, but as you can see, it is so close to the crossmember that I will never be able to fit a nut on there. Too afraid to notch any more off the crossmember...dont wanna compromise the strength. This is why I was thinking about having my friend weld on some additional support at the back of this mount. That would give me a lot more room to make sure everything lines up perfect.



Another side note...I got a better look at where the transmission is hitting the tunnel. There is this rubber mount on the top of the transmission that sticks up above the metal of the tranny. This rubber mount is what is up against the transmission tunnel. Does this sound about right? or should nothing be hitting the top of the tunnel?

Really just wanna move past this part of the swap because its really starting to frustrate me haha. Especially since I now have 2 garage sessions thrown out the window wrestling with this stupid thing. Let me know what you guys think.

STREETDEMON

can you lift the tail of the tranny high enough to put a nut/washer on the stud inside the x-member? then you could thread it on there enough to lower the tailshaft and tighten it up the rest of the way.

Warnd

I can lift the tranny up a little but not too much. I might be able to get the nut on but the the whole rubber mount is going to want to twist all the time which cant be good for longevity. Im thinking about slotting the holes on the crossmember so I can slide the whole thing back more. Just nervous about compromising the integrity of the crossmember metal.

STREETDEMON

as long as you get the nut tightened down and a washer that fills the gap, you shouldn't have to worry about it twisting.

slotting the holes is another solution, just need to make sure the bolts stay tight so it doesn't get loose and waller out the holes. i also considered suggesting that, but thought if you could get a nut and washer on the mount as is, you wouldn't have to enlarge or add anything to the mount.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

What k-member and mounts are you running? Most t56 shifter pads stick up a good bit into the interior. Yours looks flush, maybe a touch above. If the engine mounts are too high, the trans will be higher in the tunnel and contact sooner

A simple solution is to buy two sticks of 1/4"x1.5 or 2" steel from lowes/Home Depot and have your friend fab up a new crossmember similar to the hawks double hump design

For future reference, I use a mid 90's truck 4l80e mount. Same basic dims, lots more rubber, two bolt holes instead of a stud

Warnd

The k-member is from the dan's trans-am and has the stock rubber third gen mounts with the setback conversion plates. Was it a bad move to take the k-member from the transam? I just did it because his was notched already. Looking back its kind of stupid that I didnt think to search for compatibility problems, but they both looked identicle when they were next to eachother so I figured they would be a direct swap. The rubber mount that sits on top of the t56 in the middle is just barely touching the top of the tunnel. Is it bad for that rubber mount to be touching?

I decided to take a break from the transmission for a day to get some other **** done while I try the prothane mount that hawks and other people recommend. Would have tried the mount you suggested pocket but I ordered the prothane one a few days ago.

Managed to get the rear end out of the trans am today. Have pictures of it next to the camaro rear for comparison but I gotta eat this chinese food first lol

Warnd

Sorry bout forgetting to post that picture but here it is:



The 9 inch is sitting behind the stock camaro rear end. Strange for me to see the brakes in different places on each side. Is this a common setup? Never see anything like this before.

Warnd

Still trying to make some progress over here. Got a couple of things done over the weekend. With this batch of progress comes some good news and unfortunately some bad news. The good news is the tranny mount and crossmember are finally lining up the way they are supposed to!! This is the mount that I eventually ended up using with the greatest amount of success:

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1973-1977-...-Mount-GM.html

Unfortunately there is some bad news to this. In the process of taking the crossmember bolts in and out 400,000 times, I managed to strip something on two of the bolts. Im not sure if it is just the bolt or the threaded part that goes into the frame. Hopefully its only the bolt, but I am really not hopeful about that. Not sure if I can get away with retapping these or if they will have to be accessed from above in the interior to make it 100 percent right. Normally something like this would really rage me out because it was a careless mistake on my part....but im just so damn happy that the mount and crossmember are finally lining up the way they are supposed to. Here are a couple of pictures for that:



Here is where the shifter is sitting inside the interior. Tried to get a nice shot so you could see how much was sticking up above the metal:



Here is another picture I wanted to share. It shows that rubber mount on top of the transmission that I was talking about. This is looking through the hole where the automatic shifter cable used to go. The rubber is clearly up against the tunnel, but im not sure there is even anything I can do about it at this point:



There is also some other good progress to share. Managed to get the fuel tank and fuel lines/regulator and filter out of the trans am and ready to be installed into the camaro (as soon as I get the fuel tank and lines out of there). This was ridiculously easy after the rear end was out. Basically just taking out the two bolts that hold the straps down and it comes right out with a little messing about with the filler neck on the tank. Here it is out of the trans am and waiting for the camaro:





There is one part on this that is also bothering me. Does this one line look like it is bent way too much? Not sure if it is intentionally bent like that, but I would think its not supposed to be THAT bent. Here are some pics:



If I have to replace that line it prob wont be too big of a deal...other than that, I am just going to throw this sucker into the camaro as soon as it loses its other fuel tank. Dan already had it all setup for the ls1 and his car was running at some point, so it should be good to go. But I guess I should do some research just to verify that he had everything setup the proper way.

Well thats it for tonight/this weekend. Hopefully I can keep plowing through this during the week. After I get the fuel situated and the transmission crossmember bolts are squared away, there shouldnt be toooo much stuff to do (yeah right hahahah). Oh well I feel like im getting a little closer every day. Let me know what you guys think! Still curious to hear what you guys think about that rear end up there.

92BLKL98

Sorry bro but that is a kink, not much you can do but cut it out. The rubber block at the top of the trans should not be contacting the tunnel in fact anything on the engine/ transmission touching the body will produce an unwanted noise, the engine/trans may still be sitting a little high.

Warnd

Yeahhh I definitely had a feeling that that was not a good kink to have in the fuel system hahaha. Oh well just another thing to add to the list. Nothing to get too stressed about. I guess I will look at the camaro fuel tank and stuff when I take it out. Maybe I will just end up swapping the pump and filter/regulator to the camaro tank.

As far as the transmission height, I would have to agree with you here again. It definitely does look like it is still too high, but at this point I dont know what else to do. I am using the stock third gen clamshell mounts with the 1 inch setback conversion plates. This seems to be a very common setup that a bunch of members are using with no problems. Cant quite imagine what my issue is. I still have to throw an angle finder on there and see what I am working with though.

camarozz383

iTrader: (2)

I got the same issue with my t56 instal, cant figure out how high to go in the tunnel? also going to need the proper angles for alignment, do anyone have the proper heights for the trans?

Warnd

Still getting some work done on the car here and there. Should really be able to buckle down and get some work done because I have two week summer vacation right around the corner (hooray for teaching profession lol). Anyways wanted to share a couple of updates with you guys and pictures for those still following along. Managed to get the fuel portion of the swap about 85 percent done. I pulled the gas tank from the camaro to see what kind of shape it was in compared to the trans am tank with the bent lines. Turns out the camaro gas tank was in damn near mint condition. After discovering this I completely tossed the idea of reusing the trans am gas tank out the window. My goal instead was to get the new fuel pump out of the trans am gas tank and swap it over to my camaro gas tank/sender. Here are a couple of pictures of that process...

This is the camaro tank right when I dropped it:



ahhhh so thats what the lines are supposed to look like when they arent kinked hahaha. Scrolling up to look at the trans am gas tank lines is almost a joke at this point. Pretty careless job after the fuel pump was swapped on that tank



Pulled the camaro sender out of the tank:





Here is the trans am sender with the bent lines and new fuel pump. Had to take the fuel pump from this sender so I could put it in the camaro tank:



Walbro fuel pump:



Here it is installed on the camaro sender and ready to be dropped back into the tank:



All back together...I sanded and painted one side of the tank because there was a tiny bit of surface rust. Probably wasnt necessary and I prob should have done the whole thing, but I was in a rush to get this installed before the end of the day. I think it will be fine for a long time to come:



Tank back in the car:



Still have to steal all the braided lines and corvette filter/regulator from the transam sender, but that is a real quick and easy job. Should have the braided lines and filter/regulator installed by the end of the day or tomorrow.

Also managed to fix the transmission crossmember bolts that I stripped which was a HUGE relief. Thankfully I was able to simply retap the threads in the frame for a 7/16ths bolt. Threads are nice and strong again...crisis averted. Didnt want to have to worry about drilling holes to access the nuts in the frame.

Lastly, I ordered the jegster adjustable torque arm on friday. Should hopefully arrive on tuesday. Once I get this, the 9 inch rear is going right into the camaro. I am hoping that the adjustability of this jegster torque arm will alleviate any issues that I might run into with the pinion angle of the setup right now. I have decided to live with the position of the transmission in the tunnel. The rubber on top of the transmission is just barely touching. Going to run it like this and hope for the best. Hopefully I can get the rear end at the right angle to match this setup.

Well thats it for now. Should have some pretty awesome updates coming this week. Stay tuned and let me know what you guys think.

oneloudchevy

Cant wait to see the jegster torque arm install. I like what you do

STREETDEMON

the jegster is a good piece. i couldn't believe how hard it made my back tires hit the ground. i used loctite on all my bolts on the tunnel piece, just for extra insurance.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I have a jegster and it was a pretty simple install. Just follow the instructions

Warnd

Thanks man! Means a lot to me. My work is a long way away from professional quality and I make a ton of mistakes, but at the end of the day ill be proud of what I have accomplished. The next one will be even better

Warnd

Thanks for responding guys! After reading a ton of threads, and looking at a lot of the build threads on here....the jegster was just going to be the best all around option. I factored in fitment, price, ground clearance, and ease of installation. Had I been able to weld, I might have gone a different route. At the end of the day I think this was the best choice for me.

Should have some more updates for you guys tonight.

92BLKL98

Looking forward to seeing it. I currently have the Spohn T/A and X-member but wow does it require a lot of real estate under there. I am going to probably sell it and buy the Jegster. I do not like the round-about way you have to run the exhaust system to accommodate the Spohn unit.

Warnd

Got another small update for you guys. Unfortunately its not the jegster torque arm install like most of you probably want to see pictures of. Going to need a bit more time in the day to tackle the torque arm and rear end.

But anyways, got the remaining portion of the fuel setup done until I ran into a little bit of a snag by the fuel rail on the engine. Apparently the truck coils that I am trying to run cause a problem and completely interfere with the the fuel rail where the main fuel line comes in. Dont know how I didnt realize this when I was putting the coils on. Guess Im going to have to do some research on possible solutions to this problem.

Is there a new fuel rail system that would be beneficial for me to upgrade to? Any of them that change where the input for the fuel lines are? Should I just bite the bullet and buy the fbody coils and brackets? I think I read somewhere that people just bend the fuel line a little bit to clear the coil, but I dont know that I am comfortable doing that. Seems like it would have to be a pretty serious bend to make everything clear. Let me know what you guys think.

Here are some pics from the day....

Braided fuel lines hooked up to the gas tank outlets:



Corvette fuel filter/regulator installed in the stock location:



Did my best to keep the fuel lines running in the stock location up the transmission tunnel:



Going up into the engine bay...going to install one more clamp from the fuel line to frame once I get the other issue ironed out:



Here is my problem area. As you can see the fuel line on the fuel rail goes directly into the back of the coil. Fuel rail outlet is covered in blue masking tape:



One more:



This is where I am at right now. Want to get all this ironed out before I start routing the engine harness and installing spark plugs and headers. Let me know what you guys think your best solution is and I will try to see what I can come up with in a search.

Thanks for lookin.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Nice progress, you are getting pretty close to getting the car on the road. Its a lot of work but it will be worth it when you take that first drive.

You might want to get some fuel injection hose for the return line, I'm not sure how well those clamps will hold the braided line. I would be afraid it wouldn't stay secure over time on the braided hose.

I used a 6an braided line from the filter for the return, then used a fitting to go from 6an to a 5/16 hose barb(Summit Part# AEI-15635). Then I used a few inches of high pressure fuel injection hose to go from the hose barb to the metal line going back to the tank. Probably overkill but I don't like to take any chances on fuel leaks.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15635

You may want to test fit your headers before finding a final route for your fuel line. My fuel line wouldn't fit going that route with hawks 1 3/4 LT headers(not sure what headers you are using though). The fuel line was pretty much right on the headers no matter how I ran it that route. I ended up routing the fuel line up against the subframe connector on the drivers side then through the inner fender well for a better route away from the exhaust/heat. I can post some pictures if you need them.

Warnd

Thanks for the comments jbenge. You are absolutely right about that return line and the fuel injection hose. I did it like that because thats the way it was set up previously on the trans am gas tank, and the whole time I was installing it I didnt feel comfortable with it. I really like what you did with your lines there. Really clean install and I will definitely be copying that haha. I noticed you actually have that third line hooked up still to the stock location with the stock fuel rail. That was never hooked up on the trans am gas tank so I mistakenly assumed it wasnt needed. Is this something that I should connect again?

I would really appreciate some pictures of how you ran your fuel lines. Fuel is not something I am trying to play games with...better safe than sorry. Nothing is final yet in the car so I am comfortable changing most things. Rather do it right once than have to worry about doubling back and doing it again when its already running.

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

Pretty sure that 4th line is supposed to go to the charcoal canister, which I don't think that you have. There should be one for a vent (which you have), one for fuel supply (which you have), and the fourth is the fuel return (which you have). On my car, both the vent and the charcoal canister and connected to vents. Not that it's right, but there really isn't anything wrong with it. However, when my car was at my parents house in their garage, the garage always had a smelled of fuel. Your preference.

If I were building my car right now, I'd take a good thought to any suggestion that jbenge gives, the white car is very well put together. I saw it in person at Third Gen Fest, very similar to my car (LS1/4L60E), but a way cleaner install. When it comes time to redoing my fuel lines, I'll be following his routing. If I could only get him to redo my wiring, or maybe clean the engine.....

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

There is a lot of info on this site about hooking up the line to the charcoal canister and not hooking it up. You can read for hours on what to do with that line. I choose to hook it up to the charcoal canister because my 91 is a street car and I didn't want to deal with gas smells and stuff like that..plus I wanted a factory looking install. You don't have to hook it up to the charcoal canister but don't plug it unless you vent you tank another way. On my 84 I got rid of the charcoal canister and had a fuel filter on the end of the line, but that car had a 1050dp carb and smelled like gas all the time anyway so I didn't care.

I've attached some pics of how I ran my fuel lines. Not the easiest route but it keeps the lines away from the exhaust.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

You probably don't need to cover the fuel line with insulation in the engine bay like i did. I had the insulation left over from another project so I used it, I figured it can't hurt.

Warnd

Thanks for the pictures jbenge! That really gives me a better idea of how the gas lines should be routed. Unfortunately I didnt get around to changing those fuel lines up, but I did make a bunch of little progress here and there throughout the week. Its really just a bunch of random little things so I will just post pictures and try to explain as I go.

So I decided that rather than try to play games with the stock fuel rails and bending that fitting, I decided to try some aftermarket fuel rails. I like this solution because it looks much cleaner than the factory fuel lines. The kit was definitely not cheap, and probably wasnt the most necessary thing, but im happy with it overall.

First I had to take off the old fuel rails and injectors:



The fuel rails called for some grounding straps from the fuel rail to an intake bolt so I made these up. Covered them in black electrical tape afterwards so they are barely even noticeable:



Got the injectors swapped over to the new rails. Got the rails and injectors installed on the intake with the grounding straps:



Still not finished with that fuel rail setup. Have to make the braided steel crossover line for between the fuel rails. Prob get to that during the week.

Got my radiator installed...not happy about the single fan setup but it will have to do for now:



Also started to work on installing my BP engine harness:



Dont really have great install pictures of that process but it was an absolute breeze. Everything is perfectly labeled and routed. You can see some of the wireharness in the header pictures below...

Also managed to get my new spark plugs and headers installed...Making sure the gasket fit right:



Some shots of everything installed:









This is what I am left with from my BP harness...not really too sure where to mount this. I ran all of the wires through the stock location through the fenderwell and into the passenger floor well if that makes any difference.



Beyond that I am making pretty decent progress. Have to get some little details out of the way (just found out i dont have a cam sensor when I was installing the harness...gunna have to install one of those) Also the wire on my harness to plug into the coolant temperature spot is different from what is in the block on the driver side head. Might have to re-wire a different plug on there. I will try to get pictures.

In other bad news, I tried to install my jegster torque arm over the weekend only to discover that one of the holes in the torque arm was not tapped all the way. This was a big headache and after searching around for the right tap (unsuccessfully) I decided to just send it back and let them deal with it.

There was definitely more info I am forgetting to put here, but typing this up in a rush. Should have this badboy fired up really soon after I figure out how to mount that fuse block and finish up wiring that last sensor. Let me know what you guys think.

92BLKL98

Looking real good, hope the Jegster T/A works out, would like to see some pics of that when you get it back.

WTR388

That first start up is something special, you're getting close!
I ran my fuel line last night (I actually enjoy assembling AN lines), I did the stock routing through the tunnel as well. Well after I realised I had the fuel system pretty much ready to go, and that I only had 4 wires left to twist together (just to hear it run) I couldn't resist! Headed to the gas station with my jerry can at 11:30pm, was covered in car mess but didn't care! Only ran it for a second (no O2 sensors hooked up yet and a small fuel leak at the filter) but it's amazing to hear it kick!!

Warnd

Thanks for the guys! Im getting so close that i can feel it. The only major project that i have left is installing the torque arm and rear end. Everything else is just buttoning up the little odds and ends. Still have to take care of stuff like power steering lines, radiator hoses, finding a plug to fill the empty egr hole, swapping out the coolant temp sensor on the block to one that fits the plug I have ect...

I had a feeling you were gunna get yours fired up before me wtr haha....seems like you have good motivation to get your project done. I am praying to god that my car will at least be able to drive down the road by the end of September. I have to just order all these stupid little parts so I can have them all in front of me to install in one day...instead of this one part here one part there nonsense.

Also still trying to figure out the best place to mount the fuse block for my BP harness. Are people mounting these in the engine bay on the firewall, or is there a conveinent spot under the dash that works well?