Sojer

I'm doing a LQ4 swap build. I have goals and guidelines to thid build and I will list them.
87 IROC T Top
Lq4 block
L92 heads
L76/ls3 intake
T56.

Boost is out for now do to cost, I will list what I have to work with. I need suggestions, find deals for me etc. Donations would be nice lol. Can it be done for 4k we will see.

06 LQ4 no accessories $200 friend
02 ls1 harness and fuse block 75 ebay local
2 get
06 lq4 pcm ebay $90
T56 harness $91.

So far out $356

I will use hawks 1 3/4 LTs with 3" collectors.

Now the purpose of the car is to run faster than 11.50s and be a daily. Geared for highway pulls. So I'm thinking at least 430ish to the wheels.

I have UMI SFC and trans mount TA (adj), solid rear suspension by founders.

Rear end I would like a upgrade from the 9 bolt 3.27 and found a guy who has a full rebuild kit with 373 gears for 250 shipped.

For the engine this is what I was thinking. Stock bore and crank, the cheapest rods I found on ebay 6.125 h beams, cheap forged pistons for l92 heads, custom cam, rocker upgrade, spring kit, 11.6ish to 1 CR, E85/pump gas tune

Stock t56 with spec 3 clutch, 25 poundish flywheel.
Extreme drive shaft from spohn.

Umi k member, cheapest A arms I can get, umi rear coil overs, founders full adj rear kit and strut mounts.

Now I'm not above used parts. I'm not a welder nor do I have a welder. With a budget of 1k a month.

Now I sold my top end to my 355 for $800

So I'm up 444 but I have to buy a car for 500 (91 ford festvia) so im broke.
I have other things 4 sale that I have some strong leads on. Oh paypal sojer6mile@gmail.com

I would like to do the engine last because that can go so many ways. I plan on picking up 2 jobs 2 cover this build but donations would help. Parts u have that can help would be much appreciated. Help a poor 25 guy dream come true

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Instead of forging the engine, leave the short block stock and find a mild cam. 430rwhp is easy to attain without major expenses

I'd go with a ls3/7 clutch vs any aftermarket. I'd find a t56 before laying plans on any other parts for it. My combo is similar (minus the blower) and the t56 cost more than the engine build once pedals, hydraulics, BH, clutch and shifter were aquired

There's nothing wrong with a 4l60e at 1/4 the cost of the manual

Sojer

Well I have my peddles mounted. I wont do any engine mods till I get my trans to rear end done. And a t56 around here sell for 1200ish. A built 4l60e what stall will cost equal or more to a stock t56.

Sojer

I blew up my 355 and im selling parts of it and it will cover most of the swap parts, oil pan and accessories. Im not running AC. I took everything out. I know with less I can get 430 but that will require better matched parts and a great tuner. I'm shooting for the moon and if I miss I'm still with the stars.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

LSx rotating assembly parts are very expensive. A perfect combo is not needed for 430. Get a mild cam speced for rect ports and roll on

You're planning a serious build on a shoestring budget. Shooting for the moon isn't really an option

FWIW, a stock 4l60e is plenty if you keep the rpms reasonable. A high stall converter would be nice, but that's another big expense

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

I completely agree with pocket here. If 430 rwhp is your goal, I would save the money and use the stock crank and rods. With good rod bolts, that engine will hold together for a long time. Those rectangular port heads are nice; I wouldn't be surprised to see you hit 430 on a stock short block with those heads and a properly matched cam.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

How much faster than 11.5 would be acceptable? Does that have to be on a hot day with a head wind?

If budget is your constraint, I'm not seeing the need for the forged stuff, either. Or the L92 heads, for that matter.

317 LQ4 heads are 243s with larger chambers. Flat top pistons (or shave the heads - even less money), better valve springs, properly spec'd cam, rod bolts, and I'd add a Melling oil pump for good measure. LS6 intake.

What were you planning for the TB? 02 LS1 PCM isn't DBW - LS2, LS3, L76 are all DBW.

Ditto the tranny. T56 is the hard way to get to 11.5s. 4L60E with shift kit, higher stall converter, piece of cake.

My plain ol' '82 Berlinetta with stock LS1 shortblock, ARP rod bolts and Melling oil pump for insurance, shaved 317s, LS6 valve springs, cam, and intake, 4L60E with TransGo shift kit, 3600 stall lock-up torque converter, 3.73s in a 10-bolt, ran 11.8s @ 114 MPH last year. With the extra cubes from an LQ4 and more cam, no doubt in my mind it could run 11.5s. And it's completely DD-able.

Do you already have the 6-point, or do you need to budget for that as well?

Sojer

No cage for now. The pistons and rods will cost me about 700 buck. My hp goal is a minimum 430. I won't be happy with anything less than 11.50s. I'm not a track guy I will go no ets but its just a really fast street car. Bare l92s sale for 800 a set. I would use ls3 valves ( my buddy works at a gm dealer.


My lq4 will be home 2 morrow. I will post some pictures

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Good luck getting the 11.50 with the T56 and 430hp. Especially not being a track guy without a lot of seat time. My best to date is 12.15 with 420hp and a T56. Without spinning first gear I can see getting a 11.80 or so.

Sojer

We shall see

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

My car out down 407HP and 391 TQ with 3.90 gears and a t56. I somewhat consistently run 12.1xx to 12.3xx on street tires with 2.0 second 60' times.

With my 8.8 I am Putin together at the moment, I will be able to run slicks finally, which I hope will get me into the 11.80s

STREETDEMON

sojer...it seems to me you are trying to do "something different", or read about forged parts and that's all you'll take. you have been given some really good advice by more than one forum member, which you asked for. i would suggest looking at your build again and maybe taking that advice. 430hp doesn't mean anything, 2 different dynos will give you 2 different numbers on the same day with the same conditions. track numbers tell you what you really have. a smallish cam, stock internals, and the l92 heads will take you farther than you realize. no need to overbuild the engine, especially when you're on a budget. from the t56 perspective, i just had to have one for my build. if i had it to do over again i would have built a 4l60e and tossed in a good 3600rpm stall and saved about half what the t56 swap cost me....

Sojer

It's a misunderstanding going on about HP. I calculate that 430ish should do 11.50s. If my combo gets me 490 rwhp and I can only drive a 11.50 because I suck it's on me. Budget: 4k is wat I want to spend out of pocket so far I made 1000 off sbc parts so I haven't even started to touch the 4k yet and I have about 1000 more in parts 4sale. I want a t56 (I'm going to get one (if I have to pay 2000 for it I will). The forged pistons and rods are under 800 for both. I plan on stroking it so I'm setting myself up to do so. The engine swap will be covered by my old sbc parts that I sold.


Ok guys I got my Lq4 and harness. I found out the harness is from a stick car soooo I don't have to buy the t56 harness. So far that's 275 for engine and harness.

Sojer

Sojer

Also the pistons I want are l92 valve pistons, because I will have over a .600 lift cam.

2day I will have my son (he is 4, going threw divorce) so I may not work on the engine 2day. If I do I will pull the heads off, cam oil pan etc just strip it down. My buddy has a hot tank and a sand blaster so I can clean up some parts for free. The 317 heads will be sold for 200. All the other stuff would be sold for 10 bucks, oil pan pistons and rods, intake etc.

The books
Tpi top end package + 1000- pp fees 970.20- shipping 139 so 831
Edelbrock TES shorty headers back +200
1039-275= +756
Not to bad huh

Sojer

My buddy that have a hot tank also has a welder so I will take my k member and modify if for ls swap and sell it I want a umi k member. Should I get umi? I want a umi because of the universal engine options. I can do sbc, v6 bbc, or lsx. God forbid I reck the car and I have to sale pars, I would have a bigger crowd to sale to.

But after I do all of that I will set aside some more money and it will be a full on t56 hunt. I will drive up to 4 hours for a right price unit.

Sojer

Time to read up on how to splice the 2 harnesses. Its a local guy that will do 4 what I need for 300 but I think I can do it myself.

utfan01ss

iTrader: (1)

Is that a crack in the cylinder wall? A 6.0L will put down some good numbers for sure... good luck

Sojer

Yes that's the 355. I didn't even know it had a crack, I had a sale for 600. That put a hurt on my build. But its ok. That was my k member.

I need to learn how to work LS1 tech, I need to buy some stuff. I also found a oil pan for 100 but it was cracked and welded.

Sojer

This is the harness is it complete

Sojer

Ok didn't get much done but I tore it down. I rented a tool to remove the harmonic damper but it failed. Anyone knows the pn tool to use?

I removed the heads and pistons, and im glad I did. The were seized up. The rings was packed with oil, pistons didn't move on the pin. I will hone the motor when I get time. Also have a sale pending for 500 bucks. So the engine will need a thorough cleaning.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

What exactly is the harness out of?

It looks nothing like any gen3 truck/SUV harness I have run across.

Sojer

O2 camaro 6spd

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

It's real hard to ID a harness with one over-all picture, but I fail to even find anything resembling a generation3 PCM connector.

Not trying to pick things apart, just trying to help you make sure that you have the correct pieces is all.

Sojer

Looks like the wrong part. Seems to be the head light harness

Sojer

So I will get my money back

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That's a good harness to get to connect the engine/trans to the chassis (most of it won't be used, though). I used the fuse/relay boxes in my LS1/4L60E swap into an '82 Berlinetta (no EFI stuff from the factory).

To pull the damper, I used a regular jaw-type puller and grabbed it by the nubs on the hub.

Sojer

I hope he has what I need. Its a older guy parting parts for his son so he dont know. I hope he has it but I dont think so.

Sojer

Soo back to no harness. But I did strip the block bare and took it to the car wash. Next for the block is hone, hot tank, cam bearings and paint.

What color
Black or red?

I'm not to big on pictures.

Sojer

I will clean up the heads stip them down and put ls6 valve springs in them and sell them. 375 bucks is that too muck. Or should I leave them stock and sell them for 200

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

If you're planning on stroking the engine later on, don't waste your money on forged pistons and rods right now. You'll have to change those out when you stroke it so that the pistons and rods match the crank, at least from what I was told when I did my swap. Just a heads up.

Sojer

Well the pistons are for 4" bore and 6.125 rods. The rods are H beams 6.125 rods. Those can work on a stock crank or a 4 inch crank. All I have to do is change the crank and balance them. I want to change the pistons because I want a large lift cam and it wont clear the stock pistons.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The same piston/rod combo cannot be used when changing stroke

Dish pistons clear all but the tallest cams. Fly cut the pistons if you need more clearance. Check it with clay first

Sojer

Y not its the crank calls for the same rod and pistons. Im just using a stroker rods and pistons from the stroker kit on the stock crank

Sojer

What supercharger u have pocket

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Think about it

Imagine your piston/rod combo with the stroker crank. Let's assume that at TDC the piston is even with the deck. This has the crank throw in-line with the rod

Now swap the stock crank in. The shorter stroke won't let the piston come high enough in the bore to build any compression. It will be half the difference in throw down into the cyl. The opposite problem using stock piston/rods on a stroker crank. The piston will come out of the bore, half the difference in throw

I have a techco sc

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

^^^ this is exactly why I recommend staying with stock internals until you go with the stroker crank, so you're not buying forged stuff twice.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Replacing the rotating assembly doesn't follow the budget aspect of the build either, especially knowing the stock short block can handle pretty rediculous power

Sojer

Ppl ppl first I talked to the the manufacturer and they said it's ok. Second I WOULD LIKE TO stroke the engine in the future but it may not happen. This build will have to last me a couple years like 5 or so. 3rd nitrous and big cam is going in. Now the budget lets say 6k because I already made 1k off sbc parts and I have lots more.

Sojer

The build is still on with vengeance! I've had went to jail for awhile and spent a lot of time at the track. 11.50s was the goal but street cars here are much faster, and I mean full street cars like are cars with a 1000 hp engine in the bay. Now 1k hp is very costly so not going to happen. Idc about hp numbers now. I was going to build me a car that took about 6k to build. Car is stripped down ready for paint. Victory red and black gfx. 6k is no longer the limit, this is not a budget build. 650+ hp 408 on two 200 kits. I'm parts stocking now. Still will be a t56 car but a strange 12 bolt is in order. I'm not a porter so I just grabbed a stock stock set of l92 heads for 600 (like new) but this is all im getting for the engine
TMS 408 stroker kit 900 hp rating
Arp studs mains and heads
Edelbrock 28455 efi intake with 4150 4 barrel TB 1200 cfm+
Fast EZ EFI 2.0
NOS 2 stage plate kit used and new nitrous outlet kit
Hawks 1 7/ LT headers
Spohn k member and gm hot rod oil
Other stuff too but I fill that in later. Pics soon. I think I can get to low 9s off that also a pat g spec comp cam. Liberty gears (local shop) will do my t56. Also my cr will be 11.7 to 1 should I go E85?

Sojer

What size tire im thinking 28x10.5.

NemeSS-TyranT

iTrader: (1)

sounds like a strong build. build the stroker if you've got the means and that's what u want. ive gone 10.20s w a 408 and t56 on motor. and dd.
with spray u should break into the 9s if u can run thru the gears pretty good. get good suspension. rear end. etc.
but t56 starts **** breaking at those levels. prepare on replacing clutches and or transmissions. keep a spare t56. and get the one u got built for abuse.
im done with rowing gears at the track. I have the fully built t56 rated for 1200hp in my dd. I never got around to really racing w it at the track its all street stuff. its all th400 from here on out for me. paying for all those t56 upgrades and clutches got old.

87oldschool

Not to be a buzz kill, do you not see the vertical crack in the bore at the 8 o'clock position?
Clearly this will need to be re-sleeved......honing not an option-

Sojer

Haha thats my 355 1st gen sbc thats the reason the lq4 swap

Sojer

I was going for a stage 3 viper upgrade and might face plate the first 5 gears

Sojer

I just got tired of the guys with 700+ cube inch big blocks on like 4 kits (its a guys with a 902ci yes 902 on 4 kits running street car events) taking over the track so I will build the fastest car my money will allow in a year and a half. 20k car build I know I cant compete low 7s cars but if I can do low 9s on 2 200 kits im happy with a REAL street car

NemeSS-TyranT

iTrader: (1)

Go to a Tx2k event when you get it running.

Sojer

Well I do plan on moving to Houston for school but I won't have enough for them guys 1500 hp turbo cars I will only have half of that on one kit the kit is for the track. Street racing is fun but at that power level its just to risky. And Houston is 1300 miles away.