alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Here is my car and the riveting story behind it.


This is what it looks like now, save for sheepskin covers because I redid the seats in June.




This is when the car was brand new, note my grandma in the background, I just found this picture. She was less than happy. I wish it still had the tint.



Car background:
The car was purchased in 1988 by my dad from a dealer after the original owner got rid of it due to "leaky seals". So my dad acquired it for 13 grand and it became his "toy" and daily driver to school and then work. In the 1990's he pulled the engine and dropped in a chevy gen I 350 that he built to replace the 305 (nothing wrong with it)



Car around the time of the engine swap next to a 2nd gen.


That is all he changed. About 2 months later, it crapped out on him and he installed a jasper reman unit and called it a day. If no one caught on yet, he did not install any of the 350 specific electronics and instead played with base idle (I presume- b/c the cap is missing).

Accident 1: My mom drives the car into my dad's highschool gate.

Accident 2: a toyota corolla crashes into it while it is parked on the street outside my old house and moves the car into the next parking spot. Quarter panel is bondoed and a weird shade of red is used to paint just the quarter.

Accident 3 (~2000 ~2001)
My dad is sideswiped on the skyway which rips the fender out and pulls the bumper with it under the car on the right side and locks the wheel.
I should also add that during one of the times the tranny was out my dads friend shoved a drill bit into the valve body, and he's had trouble with it since lol)


Well at this point it is 2004 and he is driving it with an aftermarket fender, bumper and is 4 different colors. It has a poorly running 350 with a busted tranny. The car is left behind in my grandparents backyard and we moved to a new town. After 5 years of sitting in the yard, my grandparents are moving to the same town, and so must the car. My dad put puts the car 30 miles to its new home and it stalls a couple of times due to a bad battery.

The car sits from 2008~09 until 2011 when I chose it over the 2002 t/a vert my dad acquired. The t-tops are in bad shape, the floor is shot, the quarter still needs to be repaired, the fender and bumper are still in primer and the tranny is well still there unfortunatly.

Step 1: new tranny. My dad found it and the deal was so shady, I lost confidence before we left with it. It held up for 3 months of driving. In that time the injectors were changed to SMP 22 lbs.

Car ran okay. Then it went to the tranny repair shop. It would return there atleast 5 more times and each time would get a new tranny. The motor still stalled and I learned to drive it with two feet.

2013- January:

Car goes to the body shop called Kearny Collision. They speak of a 10-15k job, closer to 10. With the problems I have with parts it comes back to me 7 months later with an 18k price tag. The fenders and trunk are misaligned and the hood and the headlights are also horrible. The car was 1 color and had the badges. It drove, not well, but I dealt with it.

I did my best to fix all the leaks with the motor and radiator to no avail. Fix one 3 pop up.

May 2014. I ordered new injectors - bosch III. I have had problems ever since- everything from vacuum leaks, broken wires, electrical fire, and bad intake bolts. I discovered I also needed to replace the esc stuff and the prom. Did that. Played with base idle and timing, same crap. Discovered my shifting problem had a bit to do with the detent cable.

August 2014:

I decided I am done with this crap. No more TPI, it was mismatched to begin with. At the same time I noticed that more cracks in the paint on the hood were forming by the day. Rubbing headlights had chipped paint on the covers. That is where I am now.

Last Monday I purchased a Gen III chevy 5.3 Vortec motor and have been pulling it apart slowly.
First thing that saw was that it was clean on the inside until I pulled the heads off. Seems that it was a good thing that I decided to pull it off (pure curiosity) before it went in the car. Seems that it could be bad valve guides according to my dad. There is no way to tell because I pulled them off before doing a compression test and obviously I never saw the exhaust smoke color. All things point to burning oil. Cross hatching is still there. Other than that it was clean.

So I am ordering a set of LS1-F accessory brackets from Nook and Tranny and new heads from J&C enterprises off of ebay. I have an intake and rails and injectors and a harness. I need a fuel tank and f-body oil stuff. Pics when I get a chance

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Pics as promised:

A LONG TIME AGO- WHEN I WAS ABOUT 6 OR 7


The car 12 years later







NEW QUARTER

NEW PAN


OLD DOOR, THEY NEEDED THE DOOR LOCK HOLE, THE "NEW" DOOR WAS BUTCHERED

PRIMER



Here is my dad talking to the body shop guy. He is explaining to him that when the car was hit in the quarter panel, the impact pushed this car (driverless and parked) 3 parking spaces and into the middle of the street. Need I mention that this happened at 11 at night when my dad worked for the city and was on 3rd shift (ages ago). My mom, who did not like driving this car was forced to move it back to its spot. I don't think she's driven it since.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

This is what I spent December-January 2014 doing. I had trouble with wiring since day 1. Solution, go through it all. Never regret doing that.

SOME VIEWS OF THE WIRING WORK


YOU CAN SEE WHAT THE OLD VINYL ON THE DOOR PANELS LOOKED LIKE IN THIS PIC

SOMEONE DUCTAPED THIS TOGETHER. i FIBERGLASSED IT


After May
HOW DROVE IT FOR A BIT TILL I PREPPED THE GOOD STUFF TO GO IN

Prior to this two seats of door panels were ruined, the console was threatening me and the seats, well they are 26 and they smell.

SPENT TWO WEEKS ON THE FRONT SEAL FOR THE ENGINE AND HAVING THE WHEELS REDONE AS WELL AS FINISHING THE BCM INSTALL

TOLD YA IT WAS HELD TOGETHER BY FIBERGLASS- LASTED THE ENTIRE SUMMER THOUGH

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

July 2014 new seats



Basically I had 4th gen seats that I painted with SEM paint. It peeled so I used all the hardware from them and bought new seat covers for my 3rd gen ultima seats.
As many of you know, these cars leak so my seats smelled bad after 12 years of sitting in one place. I put the foams into my slop sink at home, poured hot water on them till they were soaked and added a little fabric softener. Then I took them outside and let the sponge soak in the nice smelling water. They smell great now and the seats are better then new.

With the tracks, I used power for the drivers side and got the 4-way adjustable from the driver side ultima to work on the passenger side. Both of my seats are 4-way adjustable (driver =power, passenger= manual)


NOTE THE WASHER TANK UNDER THE HOOD LATCH


This was done in preparation for 4th gen fuse boxes under the hood..

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Some Miscellaneous pictures


REMOVED THE VATS BOX FROM HERE AS THE WIRING WAS THICKER NOW IT IS NOW LOOSELY PLACED ABOVE THE CONVENIENCE CENTER ALONG WITH THE BCM ITSELF.
BCM WILL BE MOVED TO WHERE THE ECM IS WHEN THE CAR GOES LS (PCM WILL BE UNDER THE HOOD)

OLD RADIO POD

SOME MORE 4TH GEN FLAVOR- LOOKS COOL AT NIGHT

$120 LATER- BRAND NEW NOS POD

FIRST TIME I SAW IT AFTER PAINT

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

So here is the LSX stuff I have compiled.

1. a 120xxx 2003 5.3 chevy engine from a gmc 1500
2. an LS1-F harness for a manual car and an auto 4L60E harness
3. a notched 3rd gen K-member with adapter plates
4. LS1-F intake complete
5. Aluminum driveshaft

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

18k paint body job it should be brand new. Hell at that price you could have had quite a few modifications done.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Yea I know, live and learn right. But yea that was ridiculous for the job they did. I have tried everything to make the interior stand out a bit, but the best ideas I have had were with mostly stock pieces and a little 4th gen flavor. The interior before hand was shot. The engine so far is in decent shape except for the carbon on the pistons. As soon as I get new heads, I can begin assembly. Sorry for the picture explosion- my car has had minimal exposure till now.

BDR

wow..I would think you got f'd with that 18k paint job. Hopefully your build goes smoother than the paint n body stuff.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Tonight I cleaned up the block side of the mating surface for the head gasket and I also cleaned up the tops of the pistons on the left bank. Their not squeaky clean, but acceptable for now, at least it will stop flaking onto the cylinder walls. I also cleaned it all up with carb cleaner to get any minute particles out of the combustion chamber and off the walls.

Next comes the right bank and then I will sand down the outside of the block (hopefully this weekend) and paint it. I have not decided whether to do like a chevy orange or a silver. I definitly dont want to do black. The valve covers will be painted body color and the LS! intake will stay black like it is. I am leaning more towards silver though. Here is a picture for your pleasure.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

you and me both

BDR

Oh well. If you like it then its money well spent. It's cool that you've had it this long.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Yea I like it, but the paint is a year old and is already showing problems. I just wish that I could do it over again, probably would not have cost as much as it did now that I have learned so much.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

So today I purchased a set of reman heads from Rockauto for 200 bucks, a Victor Reinz head gasket kit for 200 bucks, I am getting LS1-F exhaust manifolds, and am getting the light harness from a 1999 f-body (fuse boxes)

I cleaned the right bank pistons up and put the engine on an engine stand. Tomorrow I hope to drain the oil that is left in there and sand the outside of the block so I can paint this thing. After that I hope to begin assembly and then look for a rebuilt tranny.

If anyone could help me out with torque specs for a 5.3 meaning the heads and intake and the like that would be wonderful.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I squirreled this away a long time ago when I found it.
http://cascadecrew.org/LSx%20Info/LS...ue%20Specs.pdf

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Thank you Qwktrip. Am I correct in presuming that all gen III motors whether cast iron or aluminum get the same torque on the bolts?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Torque is determined by the type of bolt, so yes.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Again!

Quick update, I started cleaning off the outside of the block today, lots of old paint and rust is coming off. One side is almost done, then after the other side, it will be ready for some engine paint.

I have decided to go with gloss black (I was debating black or silver, my dad suggested black)

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Am I the only one that noticed this is a Notchback? I want to see more pictures of that! I am also local to you in NJ, wouldn't mind seeing it in person

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Yup its a notchback. That is about the only thing that stopped it from getting scrapped years ago. It is a pain though, its chipping by the mounts (and alignment is a PITA.

After the motor gets swapped it won't be so embarrassing to show people. I will probably post more pics further down the line

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I have a notch hatch in my basement, that was the second one I was able to find. I got the back seat uppers, the struts and the sheet metal where the struts bolt, I have since lost them in the house though.

Do you think you could send me a picture of that area? I forgot what they look like, where the "catch" is and the area around the panels.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Yea I can send you a pic, but I don't know if it will tell you much, that area is pretty tight.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Quick update:

Yesterday morning I didn't have to go to work, so I decided to put a coat of paint on the block. It came out okay, I used VHT gloss black. I need to touch it up, but I have to wait for it to run to cook the paint a bit.

I also got my gasket set. I got victor reins gaskets from amazon for like 200 bucks shipped which was awesome because they normally go for 260-400+.

I also have a few other goodies coming. This morning I got a chance to drop the pan, so far so good. Pics later. When my reman heads come from rockauto I can begin assembly.

On a side note, I purchased a new LT1 radiator and I need to make it work with my poor little tpi for a bit. Does anyone have a diagram for this? I found some but for LS, which is useful, but I need to replace this thing now before the water in my leaky stock unit freezes. I haven't seen it yet, but I believe this style has an out left on both top left and bottom left (and obviously the right side aswell). (What do I do with the bottom left)

scooter

iTrader: (11)

That would be great, I have no idea what it is supposed to be like since I didnt get the panels with the hatch

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Today I got two packages: one was A head from rockauto, yes, A head. I thought I was getting a pair, so I have have to order another lol. I also got the underhood fuse blocks and harness from a 2002 manual T/A.

Pocket if you happen to run across this thread could you tell me whether or not I should try to utilize the 4th gen headlight wiring to upgrade my own. Also for some reason my harness has only the AIR pump relay and wires going the spot that says AIR solenoid. The schematics don't reflect this deletion, any help here is greatly appreciated. Also I would like to retain cruise control so would I need to switch to electronic throttle?

I think the answer is no since I am sure 1999 cars had drive by cable and cruise as well. How would I work this little puzzle piece out?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

For block/suspension paint I prefer tractor paint. Its essentially brush on powder coating. Dont worry too much about brush strokes as it goes on thick and thins out like JB weld so they usually smooth themselves out

I like the rock auto gasket kits. Very inclusive and inexpensive $200ish. You'll need a bottom end gasket kit called a "conversion kit" for some reason and a head gasket kit. And LSx bottom end gasket kit will work. If you order a truck top end kit, you'll get truck intake gaskets which wont be any use to you. Try a FWD LS4 top end kit for the 5.3 head gaskets and car intake gaskets

Remember the head bolts are NOT reusable, so grab two sets. I keep a handful in my toolbox to make thread chasers/cleaners out of. LSx head bolts all have blind holes, so if theres any fluid/funk down in there and you torque a headbolt down, theres a risk of cracking the block. To clean these out, flip the engine upside down and squirt some brake cleaner up each hole and wait for the fluid to stock coming out. Then take an old long headbolt and cut flutes long ways making it look like a cheap tap. Run that in/out of the bolt holes until it comes out clean. Also keep in mind there are two versions of LSx head bolts: 3 length sets were used on 97-mid04 blocks, two lengths on late 04-present blocks. Refer to LS1howto.com for proper torque sequencing

Why reman heads? A valve job is about $100 at most machine shops. If yours arent cracked, why spend the money?



LT1 radiator is very similar to 3rd gens. The bottom port is slightly higher and it has a built in steam port. It also has clips for a LT1 dual fan shroud to snap on. For hoses use the 93-95 3.4L V6 Fbody upper hose and a 98-02 lower. Wouldnt hurt to grab a jeep lower hose too in case the Fbody lower doesnt fit right. Return the one you dont need

I wouldnt bother using the 4th gen engine bay harness that has the fuseblocks and light wiring. Your 88 has ample fuses already, If for some reason you need more, punch fuseblock into ebay and look for the 4 fuse holder thats $5. It snaps together so any multiple of 4 is possible. Same for relays, grab the 5 pack with sockets. You'll need one for fuel, one per fan and maybe one more for AC. Keep the spare(s) for later

Cable cruise is simple. Use a 4th gen cable module and the super long cable for a direct fit, be sure its not for traction control or the end will have to be modified. S10 modules also work, but the cable has to be modified to fit the 4th gen bracket. Wiring it up is laid out in my digital cruise thread. It also covers custom cable modification

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Thx pocket!!!!

I don't know why I thought ls1 f-bodies were drive by wire lol.

I got reman heads because I asked like 5 or 6 places by me and got a price quote of $500-$700 to completely go through them and do a valve job. (It was either rockauto or ebay). I plan on using the 3rd gen dash so I guess I would just put the two harnesses together. The reason I need to use under hood fuse locks is because I don't like the way 3rd gens are wired. Not to mention rats are my harness and I don't like the "fixes" and generally speaking I want to do a clean transition. (Also the engine bay caught fire twice in the cars life and I have so much voltage drop it's not even funny).

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Sounds sketchy as heck. Ever thought about rewiring the whole car?

A basic xx circuit chassis harness would be a great inexpensive replacement, then go with a generic stand alone LS1 harness. You'd have to swap most of your dash connectors over, but it skips rat nests and half-assed fixes. WOuld be a major downer if your new engine burned to the ground from a PO's hack

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Actually all my electrical problems are from sitting (mainly connectors falling off due to corrosion). There is also the people who installed an aftermarket alarm into the car, and ofcourse rats and wiring is never a good thing. The car has been in the family since it was 6 months old, but anytime a shop services it and not my dad or myself.... Well it ain't pretty.

I spent the month of January on interior wiring. I made sure everything was factory and then to stop future alarm modding and because I like gm stuff I wired in (correct wires and with schematics) a bcm. Cleaned up the wiring and no problems with interior. Under the hood, well I have lost power to the entire car due to corrosion, had a weird alternator problem also b/c of a connector and now my dash is saying there is too much resistance on my forward lamp circuit. The interior is perfect (well close enough ) wiring wise, it's the rest that's iffy.


(By fixed I mean whole wires and crimped on terminals)

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

And I forgot to mention, those fires, one I don't know exactly what happened. Two was my fault, I did not disconnect the battery when torquing my runner bolts. My extension touched the valve cover and battery wire on the alternator.

Some wiring looks melted other wiring is cut and spliced back together, other wiring has corrosion, all that jazz.



On a side note: I stuck my hand in the fire and removed the extension to stop the fire. I wasn't about to lose the car because of the PITA tpi intake bolts. I only ended up getting a small burn on my finger. -- Ballsy or stupid? lmao

And thanks for the info about the radiator. But What do I do with the bottom left outlet on the radiator for the time being with my tpi? The car I use as a commuter got rearended when it was parked (the one day I take my car lol) and its smashed from the rear. So the T/A is going to be pullin daily driver duty for a while.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Cap the bottom left port and one just under the overflow port top right

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

So this project took an interesting turn: my lovely gen 1 SBC just acquired a ticking noise which indicates bad lifters. My project just got some amphetamines and put in overdrive. I've got some parts coming and I also picked up a complete gas tank tonight for 100 bucks.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

So I spent the weekend (well when I had time) piecing together the two harnesses to give me a plug and play harness for this swap. I took it apart, eliminated ABS/TCS and the headlights stuff. What is left is a great power distribution system and cruise control and the engine related wiring.

So What I did was I unloomed and untaped everything, looked at the schematics and figured out what could be eliminated. I only cut one wire to seperate the stuff I don't need from the stuff I do, that was a ground wire.

Alonmg the way I figured out that the car it came from was stolen at some point becuase of the ignition wiring being chopped. But no mater, my ignition wiring is sound, (all except for the park/nuetral yellow wire.)

pics:


that shows the whole thing, it is layed out as it would run in the car.



that showsx the chopped wiring (note the yellow and pink wires), also I need to know what the white and blue connectors are for, if anyone could be so kind to give me their names, that would be great.


I put these labels on all connectors that I knew what they were (all but 2)


This is what would go through the right side (where the stock C207 goes through) (these are named C220 and C230)


These are C100, C101, and C105

I will get pictures of the stock 4th gen gas tank when I have some light. It came out a 1999 T/A with 83,000 miles which was totaled. I am going to replace the pump and the sender and remove all the evap stuff and replace the filler hose as well, then I will call it a day with that.

Here is a picture of one of my new heads along with the rockers which I just placed on them to keep it together. I also got stock T/A exhaust manifolds cheap, so why not. (They were getting tossed, so why not grab 'em. I can do headers later. I still need to get a tranny, the crossmember for it, and LS1 clamshells. Then I can start pullin this thing apart. (Oh, not to mention my other head, lmao)

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I took off the balancer today and the front cover with it. My dad said it would be a good idea to get a new timing chain for it because there is play. Also I don't want to reuse the oil pump, but rather get a new one. Can anyone suggest where I should get these from. I have seen the SLP stuff on summit and ebay and its priced at $335, I don't want to cheap out, but at the same time I really don't want to spend that kind of money unless I really need to. (I also don't want used).

What has everyone else done?

BTW, I using the stock 5.3 cam and crank.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Since you're in there, grab a ls1 cam, it's slightly bigger than a 5.3 cam and can be had for next to nothing

LSx timing chains have a ton of slop even when new. Builders accustomed to sbcs will freak when they see how loose it is. This is normal. A good upgrade is ls2 timing chain. Fresh sprockets are always a good idea

Melling makes a good oil pump. I recommend a new pump in any used engine when it's out, cheap insurance

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

If I change the cam, will anything else have to be changed?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Possibly the valve springs. Need to know whats in your reman heads. Main gain is duration, but its really just exchanging one lampshade cam for another. If your springs can handle .500 lift, or you run across some take off springs, go with that. Ive got a set of L92 springs you can have

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...t-5-3-lm4.html

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the offer, I think I will stick with the bare necessities for now though. I was tempted, but my current budget is just to get this engine up and running in the car. I would love to do the cam and valvetrain stuff but for now I need this thing ready to drop in. My sbc is getting worst by the day and my 700 has been acting funny lately.
(Not many more funds I have to play with and I still need a 4L60E)

I will do the timing chain and the melling oil pump like you said. I am thinking of getting it from Texas speed unless you can point me to a cheaper source. Thanks Pocket

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Rock auto is usually half price of anywhere else. If you're scraping the budget, just do the chain and pump

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Got my other head today now I am just waiting for my arp head bolts and I can assemble the top end. As for the timing chain my dad said I should do the sprockets as well and I looked into it the ls2 has a different cam position sensor. So I am thinking of getting an ls1 kit from jegs that is for lm7s ls1s and lq4s. Also has anyone purchased a Melling pump from ebay? I see them for 60-70 bucks.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The LS2 does have a front cam sensor, but your cam and block both use a rear sensor. The LS2 upper sprocket has a 1x or 4x reluctor cast in. Doesnt hurt anything if it never moves a sensor. The LS2 timing set is a common upgrade because its stronger than the truck/LS1 chain and inexpensive. For a basic 5.3 yours wont care what chain is in it

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Question: should I replace the lifters while I am there. I think they are all fine, but I wouldn't want to find out later that they are not. I think it would go without saying that I probably should (insurance like the oil pump -well sorta). This engine has 120,000 on the clock, was burning oil and has about 10 degrees of slop in the current chain. Thoughts?

And yes I know I keep finding stuff to replace even though I said I am on a tight budget which I am. I want to put this thing together, but I don't want to rush it at the same time.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

If you've got an extra $150 to blow, sure. Nothing wrong with disassembling the old ones and cleaning them out. If you need any spares shoot me a PM. Ive got about 10 sets

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I saw ls7 lifters on ls1tech. If they are new I might get them. Also the time has come to ask about fuel. I don't know exactly how I will be plumbing the system. I have the tank and plastic lines which are all intact. I know I will need Russell braided fuel lines and 6an fittings as well as a vette regulator. But as far as uniting them in holy matrimony I don't have much if an idea. I've read about it but I can't find much. Also exhaust is another issue. I am going to use firebird exhaust manifolds. I know that next to nothing is routed the same way in both cars. A y pipe will have to be made ( I think) and after that they can probably be merged. My tpi has headers and the exhaust was redone at some point. A trip to the exhaust shop is definitely needed, but I need to know if I am missing something. Does anyone sell swap y-pipes.


And going back to fuel, yes I did see your diagram Pocket, I just feel a bit uncomfortable making my own fuel lines. And I have no clue how to splice the hard lines.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

There is no splicing a high pressure line. You cut and flare the end to do it properly. I drew a diagram a few years ago to replace ALL the OEM lines with SS braided, but it was to connect a 3rd gen EFI sender. If using the 4th gen tank, just make a it a bit longer. If its a V6 tank, do it with the corvette regulator. If its a V8 tank, it has a built in regulator, so just put a Tee in to connect feed, return and to the fuel rails

Y-pipe isnt hard. If you have a box of bends and a welder, you can build it in an afternoon. If you dont, an exhaust shop shouldnt have any trouble with it. If you have the exhaust flanges from the old Y-pipe, its a start, otherwise use a torch to burn some from 1/4" plate tracing a gasket

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Thanks again Pocket!

I can't seem to find the diagram ATM, but I get what you are getting at. From doing a little research (and by that I mean very little), it seems that I might be able to utlizie the tank lines up to the filter and use a stainless braided all the way to the fuel rail. So that is all one line, but the pump has a return too, so what does the 4th gen car do with that. (Bear with me, I have never seen the underside of a 4th gen) Is it like the vette and they both go into a regulator/filter?

I thought about a "Tee" but I am not to crazy about that.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Heres the diagram. Remember this is for a 3rd gen sender, so you'll have to change the rear fittings to push lock. IIRC, russel has designed new fittings that have a thread on lock instead of the plastic ones these PNs use. I personally never had a problem with them but others did and I can see the safety benefit of the threaded cap fittings. Use your best judgement



Remember, the tank is different for V6 and V8 4th gens. If unsure, use compressed air to see if there is a regulator on the return line. If air blows strait through, its a V6 model, use the corvette filter/regulator. If there is alot of resistance, its a V8 tank, so use a Tee before the filter

Dont fret over the Tee, 4th gens had them from the factory

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Okay, thx again. Now I can start compiling parts for the fuel system. Pocket, I can't thank you enough!

Side note: got my new LT-1 radiator today. Hopefully tomorrow will be the install! (and I will get the chance to look at the fuel lines and the current exhaust system)

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

So about the fuel:

I have been looking and drawing a fuel system and so far the only snafu or problem I have encountered is that I can't seem to find the fittings that would connect to the actual pump and to the non-threaded side of the fuel filter. I don't want to reuse any plastic lines because they seem to be bent in an awkward way. I looked on summit and jegs and the only thing that I found is the adapter from the plastic housing to an AN style thread.I haven't found any that would connect onto the pump and turn into an an thread. I tried the part numbers in the diagram, but could not find what I needed.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

What pump are you using?