igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

So, a year or two ago I bought a pull out LQ4 and 4L65E to swap into my 91 1LE but changed my mind due to several factors, one of the biggest being the cost and nuisance of gathering all the swap parts. Well time has gone by and the bank account has some extra padding so I decided to go at it again. I decided to get most of the part sourcing done in one fell swoop and looked for a complete 4th gen parts car. Found a driving, tagged and inspected 98 T-Top Z28 last week and think I got a decent deal. Picked this one up for $4k. Interior is in good shape, body is a little rough but the car has a decent amount of aftermarket parts on it. I plan to swap the entire drivetrain and fuel tank to the 1LE then part out what's left of the donor car to recoup a little cash. If the rain here in Texas lets up I plan on disassembling the donor this next weekend and documenting the entire process on this post from teardown through the swap.


The car has a FAST intake and throttle body, baby cam (unsure of the specs), headers and Borla cat back. The vehicle also has double adjustable rear LCAs and adjustable pan hard bar. The car also has a set of take off Z06 wheels, 17 and 18s... There are some other small upgrades ive overlooked but I think it was a decent deal for $4k. It is on the higher mileage side though around 135k. I know it's nice buying a driving car so I can check out the performance of everything before the swap.


https://i.imgur.com/7CrHGf9.jpg

cypris09

iTrader: (1)

Not sure of prices down there but I was looking at 15 to 2000 just for a ls1. Corvette wheels fetch 600 plus here too. I'd say you got a nice deal if you were unsure of it.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

So I want to get some more of the swap parts ordered tonight and would like some input from you guys. I was thinking about going with the Hawks "budget" long tubes and y pipe, hawks trans xmember and engine mounts as they seem to offer the best ground clearance. I really wanted to switch to torque arm/xmember combo to move the mounting point off of the transmission but it seems like it will kill ground clearance with the exhaust then. I'm also planning to drop in a 255lph pump while doing the swap. Would you guys recommend using the 4th gen tank or keeping the 1LE tank setup. From my understanding if I run the 4th gen setup I will just need to connect the fuel line and the regulator is built into the pump unit? What do you guys think is the best way to go on the exhaust/fuel/and trans xmember situation? Any input is appreciated.

redmaroz

iTrader: (4)

As far as the motor moun situation and crossmemeber I used adapter plates so that i could reuse regular sbc mounts, they were the 1 inch set back plates and also went with hawks crossmember. I didnt use headers though, i stayed with the fbody manifolds, but i do have a 3 inch true dual exhaust system on the car and the crossmmeber worked really well for that. I was happy with the adapter plates to, much cheaper then using the ls swap mounts, and lots of clearance. Hope that helps some. And yes you got a pretty sweet deal on the parts car, dont sweat mileage my ls1 had around 130k miles on it, runs great and doesnt smoke either.

cypris09

iTrader: (1)

Yep i just got the 1in setback plates as well from summit. Hawks crossmember but i went with the racing innovation longtubes. You can find a set of fbody manifolds decently priced. I think i still have a set laying around actually.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

I want to go the header route, and thought about the racing innovation ones though they are currently out of stock. Did you make your own Y pipe with the RI units or did you modify another ypipe?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Thats a good deal on a roadworthy car

How much you use depends on how much you want. Seats, axle, wheels, tank etc. If you want to maximize your profits from the shell, keep all your 3rd gen stuff thats still in good shape

The tank isnt a major swap, it bolts right in, trim the filler neck, adapt the wiring and connect the fuel system to it. OTOH, if you drop a walbro 190 (plenty for more swaps) or 255 in your stock tank, then you just need lines and a corvette reg/filter. Its about $300 in lines/fittings either way, just one needs a new pump and the other uses the 4th gen tank complete, so $300 vs $400

If it were mine, Id use the engine/trans, catback, wheels (if you like them), seats (if yours need an update) and rearend (newer dont need adapters for wheels, better posi, better brakes) and sell the rest. If you just take the engine and trans, it might be worth your while to dump the roller as a whole for $1000-1500 to save time dealing with buyers wanting $10-20 parts constantly

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

I am going to swap the rear for sure, I don't want to run adapters in the rear so its a no brainer. I have a brand new set of 17x9,5 and 17x11 black zr1s wrapped in Nitto 555 sitting in my dining room so the Z06 rims on the donor are getting sold. I think I will be selling all the interior pieces though, my seats are close to flawless and if I change them It would be for some nice aftermarket units. So really its just down to deciding what fuel tank I want to use. I don't care for the Borla cat back Ill be selling it, I have a nice stainless Magnaflow setup right now that i was going to keep on the 1LE.

R13_Braz

If I were you, I'd keep the stock tank if it's in good condition. All it is is a fuel pump swap out, and making the lines. IMO, so much easier.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

I keep reading on the site, (its been a good while since i spent much time here) and I keep thinking of different ways to go. I'm willing to spend the money on the Budget Hawks headers and Ypipe but Im debating if I should wait for the racing innovation units to come back in stock and buy those and make my own y pipe. What do you guys think? I cant find any pictures of the RI units installed , anyone have some photos? Any good photos of either set with a 4l60e trans, seems everyone is rocking T56s.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You can sign up for an email notification on restocking from RI

Or grab the real SSW's from cal_sniper if he still has them

cypris09

iTrader: (1)

If I remember I'll take some pics of the RI installed. Currently at my buddies shop getting exhaust done. Far cheaper to make your own y pipe btw. I think I spent maybe 100 in pipe and parts for the entire exhaust. That includes the beer too!

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

So, I ordered the stainless works headers off of cal_sniper. Now what do yall think for the engine mounts. I was thinking the UMI swap mounts below. What do yall think, any negative thoughts about those?

Lonnie P

Since your donor car is a 98, don't waste your time replacing the factory tank. Its still metal & the factory pressure regulators in them are prone to failure.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Little background on me, so I am an ASE master tech that has hung up his tools for a nice desk job at an automotive warranty claims administration company. Well in my day to day dealings I have developed some pretty good connections at various auto shops, dealers and parts suppliers... Well look at what I scored today, my buddy at a major auto recycler told me he had a 00 Z28 that just came in and asked if I wanted the motor. I told him I already had one since I bought my donor car but for grins how much would it cost? He said he would sell it to me as a core with no warranty for $400.When I told him it would be great if he could get as many of the accessory brackets as possible he said don't worry... These are the pics he sent me of it ready to be picked up. He told his dismantler guy to keep it as in tact as possible cause it was for me so the guy kept the entire harness for me! Complete drop in LS1, throttle body to oil pan with harness for $400!

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

I still haven't pulled the drivetrain out of my donor, but I have been spending money on swap parts. So far I have picked up some UMI subframe connectors and engine mounts, SSW headers, complete gasket kit to reseal the engine, braided throttle cable, walbro 255lph fuel pump kit, locking header bolts, and a new HP 2-IN-1 laptop that sole purpose is to run HP Tuners. In the next day or 2 I should be ordering HP Tuners pro suite, Dakota digital gauge setup, exhaust parts to make my customer y pipe, 3" electric exhaust cutout to go right past the Y, Aerromotive FPR and the AN lines and fittings to hook up my fuel system. Im going to hook up to the stock hard lines by the fender, mount the return reg there and plump over to the intake. My bank account is crying but Im gonna shed a tear of joy when this puppy fires up!!!



Besides the odd ball hoses and fluids I should have pretty much everything to get it going. If the funds allow it I would like to pick up a 3k stall, the UMI weld in torque arm setup, and either a set of gears for the 98 rear (currently 2:73) or if my buddy can get me a deal tomorrow on the rear out of the 00 Camaro that new engine came from ill jump on it. It was a 6spd car and has 3:42 gears. I feel like 3:42 gears would be just about perfect balance with the 4l60e for my type of driving/racing.


My plans for the extra LS1 are to strip it to a short block, sell the intake and exhaust manifolds, store the accessory setup and oil pan for possible future swap, bag up and store the short block, then im going to port the heads and swap them onto my engine before dropping it into the Camaro.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

So, I have been giving a lot of thought about my transmission lately. My biggest issue is that I have a stock 4l60e ready to go in with this swap from the donor car, but already installed in my Camaro is an overbuilt 700r4. I really mean over built. Billet front pump, billet reaction shell, 5 pinion planetary, all hard parts cryo treated, the works. It works great and already has a 3k stall. I find it very hard to essentially throw away a $2k transmission, and bolt a stock 4l60e in its place. Im really thinking of keeping it (at least for now). Picking up a conversion flexplate and tv kit and running with the 700r4 for now. I can start saving and have my 4l60e built later.


What do yall think? Any constructive criticism welcome.


http://paceperformance.com/i-5146385...converter.html


http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata...php?ITEMID=225

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Finally making some progress.... Been forced to wait till racing season was over to start working...Last weekend we pulled the engine, fun fun in a 4th gen...

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

So after pulling the engine we found out a few things, some good. Some not so good. Once we had the intake boot off I decided to measure the throttle body and intake, found out they are both 90mm not the 78mm setup I has assumed. Now for the not so good, one header bolt was broken off in the right head and the trans fluid is pretty burnt. The trans didn't slip or shift funny but with the mileage and fluid condition I'm not too confident in it.

So, with these two findings I have made a couple decisions. Decision 1. Im gonna just yank my extra heads from by spare LS1 and have them ported by Lloyd Elliot at Elliot Portworks, and then put a larger cam in the engine. So with the fully ported heads and cam specd out by Lloyd 223/231 .615/.622 111 LSA cam, headers, and fast 90 set up we should make some decent power....

Decision 2. Im not going to trust that 137k mile 4l60e with the handling the added power. So I picked up a freshened and modified 4l60e with 3000 stall converter from circle d.

R13_Braz

Lloyd does excellent work. Extremely happy with the P&P/Valve job he did on my 862's. In fact, his work probably breathes a little too much for my currently NA 4.8, but boost should love it. lol

Looking forward to the finished build!

Zane M

iTrader: (1)

Looking forward to seeing the progression on this project!

mjdavis68

iTrader: (1)

lol, Im just trying to figure out my 350 tpi and to get it running from a the p.o. carb swap and you guys are doing the really cool chit with yours...

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

SO........ I change my mind worse than a woman lol... I have traded my LS1 for a lower mileage LQ4 and some cash. I'm taking a set of 5.3 heads to have ported and larger valves installed. Then I will have a 5.3 headed LQ4 to install instead of the 5.7. My last decision I still need to make is if I will be just re-ring the LQ4 or if I want to spring for a set of rods and pistons and make a 370 with higher compression. I want to run 7.0s for some 7.0 index racing. Not sure if the lq4 can get me there with the stock bottom end. Sold the stall that came with my new trans turns out it was a 2600-2800 stall, but I spoke with Chris at Circle D and will be ordering a 4k stall this week. . I'm looking to order a quick performance 9inch for the rear but I need my motorcycle to sell first so I can have more play money. Ever evolving plans.... Money flying out the window..... o well cant take it with ya.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

haha Ive changed my mind almost as much as you with this build. Had a 521 BBF in my 87 bird and just grew sick of the huge motor, bad gas mileage and the shaking and heat.

I picked up a 150k 5.3 out of a 99 silverado. Swapped the oil pan for a new GMPP Fbody pan with windage tray and pickup. Swapped the OEM valve springs to new GMPP LS6's and put it in the car lol. Going to throw 10-12psi with a supercharger at the 150k motor and let it eat. Keeping the stock truck manifold. I did swap in 60lb (at 43psi) bosch injectors which are more like 72lb at 58psi that are flow matched. I swapped the truck fuel rails for universal LS billet rails (made my own fuel rail brackets) as I don't want to spend all the time converting the OEM stuff over to my aftermarket fuel setup. So a few AN fittings and some pushlock hose and I'm all set. Originally I wanted to do twin turbos to keep my 3" dual exhaust but then figured it would be very annoying to run all that exhaust around the motor, then was going single turbo and changed my mind again lol... now Im sold on supercharger.

A couple of things to help you out.

1.) Im going cheap on this build hence why I didn't pull the motor apart.

2.) I went withe cheap ebay setback motor LS motor mount adapters $50. I have them in the middle hole which I believe is stock mounting location. If I tried to push it back 1" farther I would have to shorten my custom DS which im not doing. Then I had cheap ebay $30 solid universal SBC motor mounts on my Racecraft moly Kmember. Worked great. My only issue is that I feel like the motor sits rather low in the Kmember. The oil pan is clears just fine but the centerlink looks like it might contact at full chock.

2.) I went with Racing innovations LT SS headers. They bolted in just fine although I had to clearance one of the ears on my 2004R trans. They are no really TIG welded... the MIG weld everything and then go over it with a TIG welder to make it appear like a TIG weld... lol INside Welds are pretty poor but will work just fine. However the welds on the outside primaries to header flange is really TIG welded but they did it after MIG welding them on the insides. INside the collectors are hideous but again at $300 they will work just fine.

3.) Made my own Ypipe and 4" catback with less than $300 invested with mandrel bends and 2 mufflers.

4.) Idk what power your looking to make but for cheap you can boost a stock LS motor and make killer power. The bottom ends are very strong as long as you don't spin them high. Even then the stock 5.3 will live to 800hp with no upgrades if kept below 6k. I read one article where they mad3 1300hp with a stock 5.3LS and lots of boost and it didn't die. Im sure the motor will be fine, but if your spinning it high look into ARP rod bolts and maybe mains or head studs if your really worried.

5.) You can build a cheap turbo kit for less than 2K easily and make 600hp all day. Which is more than youll make NA on the 6.0 and the motor will idle like stock. Thats the reason Im going boost, stock motor and drives stock untill the boost and then its like 300hp instantly lol. Turbos are cheaper but more fab and more underhood heat and oiling lines. Mine will be self contained and be maintenance free

Good luck with the build!

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

No I'm sticking naturally aspirated for now. I plan to be doing some bracket racing and maybe index racing with it and will just take the simplicity of the natural aspiration. I just want to run 7.0s not tryin to make a ton of power and thrash everything. Sure LS motors can make crazy power but that crazy power breaks a lot of things and is hard to get to the ground some times.

So I did drop my 5.3 heads by my porter earlier and ordered a cam through him. Don't remember the specs off the top of my head. 231/239 .622/.629 111 LSA

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Well, I sold my extra LS1 long block so more money for the project!!! Also picked up some Bosch 42LB injectors from TSP that they had on clearance as a new open box part...
Bout to get on JEGs and drain the old bank account some more. Need to get my lifters, timing chain, oil pump, balancer, and maybe some roller rockers ordered...

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Here are a few pics of parts I have laying around...
Dakota Digital Cluster


Bunch of random exhaust and fuel parts


New Laptop/Tablet with HP Tuners


Hawks Headers!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

The strength is there if you can put the right parts with it. Upgrade the rod bolts, as mentioned earlier.

You mentioned increasing compression ratio further yet. Those 5.3 heads bump up compression quite a bit. Have you actually calculated your existing compression ratio and if you'll need to fly cut the pistons?

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

No, I haven't calculated it yet. Once I get the heads back from the porter and know how much he milled them and if he did much portwork in the chamber I will. Ill do all the math then and figure out what head gaskets Ill be getting. I'm not really concerned with trying to get any more compression at this point. I should be ok on the PTV clearance but have no fear I will physically clay and measure to double check.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Got some more parts in this week..... Havn't been working on it as we have been sidetracked with building a $500 junk yard drag race car for an upcoming event.....got a turbo probe gt to beat the hell out of lol..... Anyways back to the Camaro. Got the Circle D converter ordered, should ship at the end of this week, injectors, rockers, under drive balancer, oil pump and timing chain came in. Also got the heads and cam back from Lloyd Elliot, new valves, double springs and port job... see the photos below!!

Bosh 42lb injectors


Jegs roller rockers


Double roller timing chain


Melling Oil pump


underdrive balancer


ported 5.3 heads



cam sheet

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Parts look good.

How much did you pay for the laptop and Hp tuners? And the injectors? I got a set of flow matched 60lb Bosch from FIC for a good price. I also am looking for a cheap laptop for hp tuners for my setup as well.

I'm also under the assumption that double roller timing Chains won't fit under the stock timing cover... At least with front mount cam sensors. That's wat I've gathered from the Internet.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Injectors were just shy of $300 after tax and shipping from TSP, computer was bout $350 from best buy. Chain setup comes with the needed oil pump spacers, I will be checking and clearancing the oil pump or front cover as needed.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

More go fast parts delivered today! Also I went ahead and sent back the Jegs timing chain set and melling oil pump and ordered the SLP pump and double roller chain kit. They are suppose to work without any clearance issues and I didn't want to have to clearance if at all possible.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Chevy performance parts has a high volume oil pump for like $82 from summit. I'm sure the SLP costs more. I'm gona pick one up I think for when I tear the motor apart a while from now.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Yes the SLP unit is more but its clearanced to work with the slp double roller chain and not need spacers or clearancing of the timing cover. The SLP chain and pump are $300 from jegs with the racers discount. I only had about $215 in the jegs chain and melling pump.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

No real progress, just buying/trading for more stuff. Picked up a drag pack for the car. Some Racestar Dragstars with ET streets on the rear. Like new no miles on them just need to polish them up. Guy was asking $1k for them but I ended up trading an AR15 Pistol I had about $800 in for the setup (Guns, the official second currency of TX). Maybe Ill get to actually do some work on the car this weekend. Maybe...

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Got the 6.0 picked up today. Actually turned some wrenches too. Got the engine on the stand and began to take it down to a short block. Yanked the heads and found that the cylinders had a fair amount of rust. The motor had came out of an 06 3/4 ton truck. The engine had a valve issue and instead of yanking the heads to fix it a cheap 5.3 was swapped in and the truck sent to auction. The heads were just loosely bolted back on and the motor set in the corner. This issue here is that the crappy monkey techs that my friend employs weren't smart enough to clean out the bit of coolant that spiled into a couple of the cylinders so naturally they rusted up pretty well. I didn't snap any pics of that shortblock but now it looks like I will be just going ahead and rebuilding the bottom end... More money then I wanted to spend but Ill have a completely new motor at that point...

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Well got my Christmas bonus today and ordered some rebuild parts. Got some Lunati Voodoo H beam rods and Wiseco pistons ordered. Will take the block to the machine shop after Christmas and have the bottom end taken care of. Looking to run Clevite H bearings. When all is said and done we should be looking at about 11:1 on the comp. I'm gonna go ahead and have the rings gapped for some nitrous. This build isn't going quite like I have originally planned, and I am notorious for changing my mind. But I think when its all done it should be all worth it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIS-K398X3

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-70361251-8

Ikes 91Z

iTrader: (1)

Excited to watch this build unfold. Even if you do change your mind 100 more times.


I also like the car in the background...

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. That car in the background is one of my buddies footbrake bracket cars. Has a sbc and glide. Gets plenty of attention. Lil faster than what mine will be when done.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Pistons and rods came in... I'm just plugging away at the parts purchasing. Being an ex tech the working on the car and actually building it doesn't deter or slow me down. Just buying all these damn parts gets to be tiring... Gonna get the block and parts over to the machine shop next week so that I can start making progress. I've decided to go with Morgan and Son Racing Engines, for my machine work and assembling the short block. Some of yall might know them from building some of the engines for guys on "Street Outlaws". They do great work and are really popular here in north texas. Well that's it for now. Soon we will have some real progress and not just pictures of pretty parts!!!

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Well, little bit of progress. I dropped the block and a pile of parts by Morgan and Son Racing Engines this evening. They said turn around should be about 4 weeks..... Kinda sucks but they are really busy. You know what they say, you can have it done fast, cheap, or correct. Choose 2....

This entire thing is taking way longer then Id like. I try not to complain because its all out of my hands. I live in an Apt and have to work on the car at my friends house 45mins away. We both work 45+ hours during the week so any progress is only on the weekends. Even then we both have commitments to our significant others that takes up our time. O well I don't mean to gripe...It will all be done eventually.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Well I did what I do best..... Bought some more stuff!!!! Got an Alston racing adjustable torque are setup. Its the one that mounts to the trans tunnel like the Jegster unit. Also picked up this beauty below as a spur of the moment buy. Moser 9inch, 4th gen width, came with LT1 calipers (not in pictures) extra chrome moly spool, gear install kit, and set of 4.88 Richmond pro gears. The unit has an aluminum spool and 4.33 gears installed. Paid $1400 for it and the guy delivered it to me from 120miles away. I'm gonna sell the extra gears and both spools and buy a locker for it. I think I'm gonna go ahead and keep the 4.33s for now.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Progress!!!!! Out with the old, soon to be in with the new! We pulled the engine out weekend before last, and this last sunday we finished cleaning out the engine bay of non essentials so that we can get it painted up. This coming weekend we are going to repaint the engine bay. I'm gonna paint the engine bay black. I have a cpl reasons behind this, I'm about 50/50 split on changing the cars color after shes up and running. She needs to be repainted for sure and I'm torn between keeping it artic white or painting it black or a nice charcoal gray. I figure the black engine bay is kind of neutral, it will work with most any color body, lots of cars have come from the factory with black engine bays and different body colors. Plus if she does stay white it will have black accents/stripes so I think it will work either way I go down the road. Any thoughts on this?

Well more pics to come after this weekends work session. Engine builder should be calling soon for me to pick up the motor. Cant wait!

Last pic of the car with the original powertrain


Dirty Dirty TPI.... I haven't really done anything to this engine bay since buying the car, shes dirty but ran like a champ.










And one last pic from when we were messing around, 315s don't quite fill up the wheel well on a back halfed bracket car....

92BLKL98

Since you are painting the engine bay I assume you are totally stripping the firewall of A/C, brake booster and so forth. Be sure to check for rust on the firewall in both back corners under the factory sealant. I found plenty on mine and one small spot on the firewall itself in the very corner as well as in the pinch weld between the firewall and the wheel wells. This has slowed my progress immensely, I plan to start the repair on it this weekend.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I have the HVAC stuff and everything out now gonna go back to heater only for now, didn't see any rust before but ill give it a good second inspection when we get to cleaning, prepping and painting. Thanks for the heads up.

92BLKL98

Be sure you remove a section of the sealant in the corners and inspect there, you do not want to have to do this again in five years.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

So I got a little more done. Got the engine bay all cleaned and painted. No signs of rust in the seams... She has been a North Tx car 99% of her life, looking good. Now I'm getting my intake and valve cover cleaned up. My buddy is gonna hydro dip them carbon fiber. If it think it looks too ***** Ill just paint back over them.... Heard from my engine builder, should have the short block later this week!!!!!!! Then the real progress begins.

Engine bay nice and black


Dirty Dirty FAST intake

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Hydro dipping carbon fiber usually looks like poo. Only bc it's printed grayscales in gradients and doesn't look like carbon fiber. Not even close to the 3D vinyl stuff. Personally I would pick a different print, something that looks good when dipped.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

yeah, my buddys valve covers came out good. I think it really just depends on the pattern and base paint. . I was gonna paint them black before we thought about dipping them. Ill give them a shot and worse case ill scuff them and paint them black like the original plans... I might see what else is out there though...l kind of like the idea of skulls