grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

I haven't sprayed much single stage, but spraying the clear itself is similar to gloss single stage, you just have a lot more leeway in the base coat. There is some cool stuff you can do with pearl in the base too.

For those interested this is how I "boxed" my control arms. Not the prettiest. If I had a plasma I probably would have cut out the whole shape and just welded a solid panel. But this should be about as functional.



Got the swap perches mounted.



Aaand engine on the K member.


I've only got maybe an hour or so a night with work and everything else during the week. My spacer should be here tonight so long as Tick didn't send it USPS where I have to sign for it again, in which case I'll have to go pick it up at the post office tomorrow, like I did the master.

Also didn't realize the thru bolts that hold the two mounts together from the thirdgen were too short, so I have to go grab some longer ones since my engine didn't come with them.

So hopefully trans goes on tonight. Then tomorrow intake and coils on, mount all my stuff on the firewall and get the engine in. Saturday throw new gears in and get the gas tank in. Sunday start on wiring.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Well we are finally there, but now I just have a week and a half to get it running and haven't even started wiring or getting the tank ect in. It is going to be tough.

Took a half day Friday and finished getting the motor together. Then most of Saturday and Sunday was spent getting the rest of the stuff back in there to put the motor in. Had a ton of trouble with the slave master and my Astro shaft got messed up in PCing, so that was a big set back. But anyways...

I fabbed a plate to go behind the slave master and a mount for the clutch reservoir. Had to change these both a bit so don't pay too much attention to it, but you get the idea.


Engine ALLL ready to go back in. Was kinda pissed when I put the headers on because I realized Kooks has not fixed their issue with the left side O2 sensor bung. It will hit the bellhousing on the T56, so I had to run out and find a bung to weld in and fix that.



Bay ready to roll. Did I mention the Tick Clutch Master was a biatch. Would have probably been a little easier without the plate, but I wanted to add a little reinforcement. Hopefully that thing never has to come out.




And finally last night it went in. Super stoked, but also super far behind, so it is a little bittersweet.




Only issue I had was that the rear right coil does not clear the box. I thought it would be alright with the different coils and valve covers, but it just hits a different spot. I'm a dummy so I left it on dropping the motor in and the dolly the motor was on snapped when I was dropping it down and the engine jumped and popped a hole in the ac box. No biggie, I can fix it later, just need to shift the coil up or tilt it. Not sure the wires there will reach still, but I'll figure something out.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Dooooood! Doooooood! It looks Sooooo good in there! I enjoy every update I get as its like a little motivation or glimpse as to where I will be soon. I like the clutch master location. Looks good there.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, super excited with how it turned out. Your's will be even cleaner, but this is really just an overdone cruiser. Most of the stuff left is just bolt on and go aside from all the wiring. Should go pretty quick unless I hit a snag. Still hoping to get it together.

Tires finally showed up. These things are huge. The 315 MTs were huge, but these are huger lol. I hope they fit without too much work, probably wont be able to change rings and get these mounted ect in time for the show, but we will see.



Got the torque arm mount on, set up clutch lines etc, and got the front suspension mounted last night. Def need to re do the wheel wells and clean up the suspension a little more sometime soon, but not right now.

R13_Braz

I am extremely jealous... that whole thing is just drop dead gorgeous! Probably the prettiest swap I have seen so far!

Damn, I thought my rear tires were big... you win! Lol. I'll get the use out of these 295's, then swap over to 315's. Depending on wheel spec, you might just have to serious massage the inner wells with a hammer. I really didn't need to, but I adjusted it some anyway, and I have a 20 mm offset on 9.5" rims with a 6" BS. No tire rub on the outer lip or inside.

As a side note, and you've probably already shown this but what front strut mounts did you use? The ones I've got have no caster adjustment.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, it has been a lot of work and a lot more to go, but it is getting where I want it.

I had an inch plus on the inside with 315s on an 11" wheel. The wheels will be widened a half inch to the inside with a 335...sooo it should be ok but who knows. Hammer is waiting, quarters are already rolled so good there.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Man Rival 315's... You're wearing my shoes man!!! I need to burn up the KDW2's then I will be ordering Rivals for mine.

I'll be interested to see you stuff a 335 in the rear with no mini tub. LCA interference even with the biggest hammer will be an issue.

Keep trucking man. I'm waiting over here for a video

Ikes 91Z

iTrader: (1)

Gorgeous. Attention to detail at its finest. Keep the pics coming man!

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Phils just got a restock on the 335, I assume they got 315s too but who knows.

I'll grab a vid when I get it running and wash it lol. Bay looks great but the rest of the car and garage are a total wreck right now.

Thank you, will do! Almost hate to run wiring and the rest of the hoses and stuff, looks so clean right now.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Little more progress last night.

Accelerator cable set up and can push to the floor, vroom. Got the fuel line plumed, and clutch bleeder re routed out of the way (that line is looong).





I'm not sure if you can see it well here, but I got the Hooker heat sheild in. There isn't much to this and you could probably fab your own pretty easy, but def worth what I paid for it just for the ease. Bolts up super easy and otherwise I would have melted stuff on the headers for sure. I need to pull the brake lines back a little still as well.




Also realized I forgot to put the dust shields on the back of the block to keep stuff out of the bell housing and got the trans mount in and trans bolted up, and pulled the excess fuel lines out. Hopefully tonight coolant overflow radiator and hoses ect go in.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

So I was having a little trouble with the clutch safety switch. I used the older style pedals which are actually pretty awesome cause they have extra braces and stuff for the clutch. But they didn't come with the safety switch and it has apparently been discontinued for like 20 years or something. I didn't want to weld under the dash to mount up a newer switch and these pedals were a huuuge pain to put in. And didn't want to bypass it cause I'll do something dumb.

The only slider style safety switch that is still made apparently is for the trucks those same years. It was a push style instead of a pull like on the Camaro. I thought I might be able to make it work so I ordered one. It showed up real quick and was actually super easy and should work totally fine. Standard # NS-88

Pop open the metal cover and this is how it comes.



Pull the rod out, switch it around, dremel some grooves on the other side, and pop the crimp back on it and it is the same as a thirdgen.


Also another issue. I had it in my head that I read somewhere that the older Explorer tank with the washer and coolant reservoir would fit in the nose without issue. So I ordered one a while back. It does not even remotely fit. I think guys were putting these where the charcoal canister is a while back and I confused it.. been on the boards too long lol.

So I decided to fab up my own bottles.

If you haven't used this stuff for plastic/bumper repairs you are missing out. It smells like death but it sets up real quick and very easy to work with. I used it as kind of a glaze on the bottom of my FG hood to fill in the seam as well as a ton of other stuff.



I grabbed these little universal jugs. Coolant overflow I just needed to add a nipple for the crossover lines on the heads, and then route a hose from the radiator overflow line to the nipple already on the bottom of this.

The washer tank (which really isn't necessary but what the hell) was a little tougher. I cut up the jug I got and my old jug where the pump mounts and grafted them together with this epoxy. Looks like hell but it is not visible and super functional.


Boom, disappears.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Nice fix on the switch! That is the type of thinking outside the box that set a lot of people apart.

Are your bottles Dorman bottles? They look just like the ones I have sitting in a box to be installed. I cutting out the old bottle is pretty creative idea to keep it all in one package. I was just gonna run the pump as an "inline" on mine, but if that poses problems I might have to break out the 3m plastic stuff. Looking like you are making great progress daily. Keep after it man.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Yea Dorman # 603-001. Inline works too! You probably just need a step down connector for the hose and should be good to go.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

You can still get them in the aftermarket.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Show me someone that has it in stock.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I see it on Rock Auto, unless you're looking at a different part number.

not sure if this works or not
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/p...y+switch,16665

I see it at Pep boys, there are a few on Amazon, Advance auto, Rock auto

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I have a new one I bought a long time ago, and I since my car was an auto I was going to wire it as an interrupt for the starter relay ground so it doesn't have the high current it would normally see from the relay and starter solenoid. It should last forever that way

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

That is the newer style button switch, same as the 4th gen. The older thirdgens had a slider style switch which is non existent. Look at the pictures I posted above ^^


Not a ton of progress last night. I redid some of the hoses and got the CAI on. I didn't realize the whole thing was 4", the step down is actually in the piece that is supposed to enclose it off. I had to piecemeal some stuff from the old air box to make it work. Guess I am getting a 4" MAF..

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Just looking at things under there, and I'm just thinking that it would be worth the effort to spray the upper radiator cover body color. I'm sure with your timeline its a project that could be put on the back burner, but just something I thought would look killer?

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

It needs to be replaced, it is cracked on both sides. I've been debating fabbing/buying a metal one as well as the piece in front where the hood latch is v. painting them body color. CF would look cool too, but it doesn't match anything. You might be right though, body color would be best.. those little pieces of plastic shouldn't be a focal point. Not happening right this second, but easy hour long project for later. Good lookin out

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

I was gonna wrap mine with real cf, and vacuum bag it to shape, but kinda changed that plan. If you end up needing one, I have an extra I'd sell ya. Custom ones might be even cooler if it can be done and not look like the bent cardboard I see sometimes. You got it!

R13_Braz

Man, mine is just as damaged lol. Had to make it fit my current fan setup, so it's cracked everywhere. Was going to have a buddy of mine fab it up in either stainless, or aluminum, and then have it powder-coated black and do Vendetta in raised Red letters.

Looking good!

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

I'll do something with it. Probably just paint it, but I'm gonna wait and finish this and figure out what looks best.

Yea they get old and crack all to easily. Plastic, yay! I have a buddy with an LS swapped Elky that made a metal shroud for his radiator, but I haven't gotten a chance to check it out yet, might give me some ideas.


Feel like I did so much work over the weekend, but still didn't get enough done. Spent like 40 minutes struggling bleeding the clutch only to find when I was cleaning up that the slave was leaking. So I got to pull the trans for the first time in the car already luckily the remote bleeder line had just come loose and the clutch was brake fluid free. I was worried I was going to have to replace the the clutch and slave etc..

Also patched and sealed the air box back up, and got the #8 coil oriented where it will work and has room for a plug wire.

Car was on all 4 wheels for about 5 minutes while I pushed it back on level ground. Debating running it without a hood from now on lol.


I got the gears in, but I think I'm going to pull them out and make a small carrier adjustment. The pattern was ok, but they are binding a little bit.

The tank isn't IN yet, but it is all but there. The racetronix pump is in and all the wiring is run. I think I pretty much followed QWKTRPs diagram for the wiring. I was planning on keeping the relay in the car since the battery is going in the trunk anyways but there wasn't a good route for the wiring without really extending the harness. There is an inline fuse for the power line which I'm going to clip to the tank for easy access if I need to get to it. Then there is still 3' or so of lead wire to drop the tank down if need be. Added a small piece of shroud after this pic on the exposed wires.


I pretty much followed this diagram, but I scrapped the ground on the thirdgen plug and left the grounds as they come on the hotwire kit. Then just grounded it to the body right there.


I used all AN fittings on the line instead of using compression fittings. Compression would have been way easier, but I get kinda paranoid about fuel. The front is the same, flaired line with an -6 AN to a crimped pre made hose. I was planning on putting the T after the fuel filter, but with the amount of line I need to put the flairs on and going from -an to 16 mm for the filter it would have been too wide and not fit. I should have just gotten an AN filter and it would have been a lot easier. My hose bender is also MIA, so I had to go run and get a lovely piece at AZ and couldn't bend to save my life because of it lol. Pre made hoses would have been way easier back here as well. I guess there is always next time


Ok, so car has to be running by Friday So current plans.. Tonight, finish tank, remount rear, re set gears. Tomorrow pick up computer from base tune.. and it is my daughters bday, so I guess I'm taking a time out lol. Wed mount battery and run wiring up front, probably try to pull an all nighter and try to knock out the wiring. Probably need some sleep and some point before trying to weld again and running the exhaust. So depending on how long wiring takes etc.. that will happen last. Or maybe do that Wed night and sleep that night and just do wiring all Thursday until it is done. Just need some sleep to weld and to drive, I can solder wire on caffeine alone.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

That sounds like a pretty brutal thrash session, but from your original timeline and work, I got faith in you. Enjoy those redbull and coffee mixtures its gonna take!

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

The last time I did something like this was after I painted and had to put the entire car back together. It took me two days.. and by that I mean 48 hours.. all of them together lol.

I changed plans a little last night, but I think this will be quicker and work out better. Got the gas tank in and lines hooked up. I had to redo the line at the filter like I kind of thought. Went ahead and hung the rear exhaust and mufflers and got the front pipes set up. I should be able to just stick the front pipes on and then weld up my connectors to the Kooks tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have an hour or so tonight to get the rear back in one piece. After that I can set up the battery and just work on wiring until it is done.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Haha! 48 hours. You are a mad man lol. Did the exhaust fit well, and go together smooth? Have yet to hear a complaint. Keep on keeping on. Take lots of pics of how you are setting up your battery, and junctions and such... I might have to follow your lead on some of your well thought out ideas.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Exhaust is pretty straight forward. I was not expecting the adjustment to the upper panhard rod and brake cable on the pass side. The kit comes with that stuff so no biggie, I would have gone ahead and gotten the founders kit if I had known tho.

Also utilizes the stock rear passenger muffler mount which went in the trash 4 exhausts back on this thing. Again no biggie but I would have gone ahead and ordered one. Walker # 35648 if you need one.

If I read the directions before going to install it I would have been gold lol, so my fault. System looks super sturdy and comes with some nice mounts ect.. Wish I could move the tips up a little closer to the muffler but I'm sure I'll figure that out later.

Edit - for the battery set up I've got one of those billet mount plates for the Optima. I'm going to ground it to the body in the spare tire compartment and also run positive and negative up front. Ground the engine straight to the engine on one side and a ground strap to the trans tunnel on the other. Ground what engine body negatives there are to the block. Then a positive block mounted on the frame rail. I'll get some pics when it goes in.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Sorry no updates recently, but I'be been super busy trying to finish/exhausted. I'm gonna be trying to catch up on sleep for the next month probably.

I got the car where it should be done and firing but it won't start. I guess this is why you shouldn't do a wiring harness at 3am. The engine turns but winds down real quick and seems to have a voltage drop when the key is turned to start the car. Lights flicker, gauges start going crazy, engine sounds like it is going to fire for a second and then slows down.

All the pins on the computer that are supposed to have bat power do, and all of them that are supposed to have ignition power do. The pink commons on the engine harness have ignition power, and they hold it when the engine is cranking.

What I do not have is any kind of firing command coming from the computer to the injectors or coils. So something is either telling the computer not to run or the signal is getting grounded out first. I'm going to check the wires for the Crank sensor, I already replaced the sensor trying to figure it out. Then I guess go through the rest of the harness and check all grounds ect.. Only other wierd thing is the power windows aren't working, but that could just be a blown fuse, I haven't checked yet.

My lovely Optima, that is now kaput as well. I guess it sat without a charge too long cause it is not keeping much on it. I ran 4g to the power block on the front, and a 4g ground all the way to the back of one head. I also grounded it to the frame in the spare tire compartment, and another 4 g ground from the engine to the trans tunnel. The racetronics is wired straight up to the battery + and then grounded behind the rear seat.


Here is the power dist block up front, I will def need to change this out to something a little bigger. The C100 powers are not hooked up here in this picture, just bat, starter, and alt, which all are running 4 g.


C100 half way broken down, and the C207. This was the only picture I remembered to take when doing wiring. It is all a spaghetti mess in the engine bay right now.


Exhaust ended up being easier than I planned. Just cut an angled piece and welded it up to bend from the mid length kooks to the blackheart system.


Welds aren't real pretty, but the ground clearance is great! You see it dip just a touch around the back of the trans, but it is not much lower than my SFCs.



I pulled one of the Rivals out and started looking at fitment. They look like they should just fit as long as I measured right. Will probably have to do some pounding on the wheel well for safe measure.





But plans right now are to go through the harness and check all the wiring and figure out what is goin on. Then probably pull it to do the loom. I need to extend the light harness for the front since I'm routing it up under the fender instead of on the frame rail and then re loom it as well. Then work on the wheels/tires, clean it up and send it for dyno. So close, yet so far.

Found a pic from the show, my phone died so I didn't take any.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

Hang in…all smiles when it gets done and sorted.
Just drove mine and it is a constant pleasure.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Sooooo close!!!! Hey at least you made it to the show, and it looks awesome out there in the sun.

That ground clearance is awesome! Time to order up some air bags lol dump it!

scooter

iTrader: (11)

4 gauge is a little small for a run that long, I ran 1/0 but I think 2g is the minimum that should be used. I used a 4g for the charging wire.

Also, Optima batteries suck now, unfortunately in my experience. Since they switched the manufacture to Mexico :/

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

4 gauge is fine for grounds like he has them. Running a 4 gauge to from the battery to the starter is not enough. 2 gauge would be the minimum for runs from the engine compartment for main power and ground (Battery to frame and battery to starter). You could get away with 2 gauge from truck to starter but you should def step that up to 1/0 gauge.

FWIW I run stock 99 truck wires in mine but its all under the hood (all 2 gauge), but my 130amp 1 wire alt I ran 4 gauge charging wire to a re-settable breaker box and then back to the battery. Ideally you should run 1/0 main wire to the engine bay and ground the battery to the car with 1/0. Charging wire could connect to the 1/0 you ran to the engine bay with a distribution block. 4 gauge is fine for grounds from frame to engine/heads.

EDIT: What exhaust is that? Looks real nice on the back half of the car.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I read it as he ran the 4 to the starter, but yeah 4g for the grounds are good

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Yes running 4g from the back for power and ground. I don't think that is my issue but I'll jump it straight to the dist block to double check. I started to run something thicker, but it looked like overkill.

I guess I'll re run the power wire, but need to get this thing running period, first.


I'm running Kooks mid length swap headers with the Hooker Blackheart 2.5" dual system and made a bend to connect the two.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Yea 4 gauge is way to small lol... run 2 gauge minimum. But either way it should still start even with the 4 gauge as long as the voltage drop doesnt get so low that the ECM cuts power to the coils/injectors etc. I would verify you have 12.5v during cranking.

Another thing you need to verify your switched 12v and 12v sources for the PCM/coils/injectors are actually receiving voltage during cranking. If they aren't then its not going to start.

You going to need to upgrade the wiring but verify your voltage at cranking and then verify your getting voltage and enough voltage during cranking for the switched 12v sources. Are you verifying fuel pressure during cranking?

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

I guess this could be the case, but I'll check voltage during crank and also wire the starter up direct. I can just do this at the dist block while the starter is spinning correct? Or either at the battery itself? It doesn't seem like this would happen, but it is the symptom I'm having..

The battery is kind of shot too, but the symptoms don't change with another battery hooked up to the cables in the back, or with a jump box added on.

I get 12v to the pink wires on coils and injectors with the key in ignition on and when it is cranking. There is no juice coming out of the command wires from the PCM though (purple wires at the coils ect..) at any point in time.

10-4, thank you. I haven't checked fuel pressure but I hear the pump turn on with ign on. If there is no FP will that tell the computer not to run?

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

No, if your not using the PWM fuel pump then the PCM wire can not be used and the motor will still run. PCM just controls the PWM or fuel pump priming etc. I use it to signal a relay to turn my pumps on but Ive left it disconnected and run my pumps right off the key for figuring out cold start tuning. But if you haven't disabled VATS it will kill fuel pump signal after a few seconds. Still no fuel pressure during cranking its not going to start. I had fuel pressure issues (low on gas) and once fuel got less than 20psi the engine would barely run.

After you verify the correct working connections of the harness/battery/grounds etc. I wonder if the sensors could be bad causing no signal to the PCM and thus no signal to the coils etc.

RESPONSES in bold in quoted text as well.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

I had a little time to mess with it yesterday but not much. I checked all these grounds accept the HO2s since they are a little tough to get to. Everything Ohmd out great.


I wired each side of coils and injectors to it's own fuse on the C207. I used B and G which were the old INJ connections. Double checked fuses as well last night and all are good. The PCM has fused power off the dist block to b57 and b20. I originally used a 10 amp based on one diagram, which blew and switched to a 15 and it has not blown.

The computer was just hooked up to HP tuners to remove VATS and put a base tune on, apparently it looked fine in the program but I could have always fried it. Any way to check this?


I definitely have a voltage drop when cranking. With the battery still connected I hooked up the jump box to the dist block and grounded to the block voltage during cranking dropped down to like 7-8. I then disconnected the battery and tried to run it just off the jump box with power on the dist block and grounded to the block and it dropped down to 4. This would be a grounding issue with the starter or an issue with the wire from dist block to starter most likely correct? Does this point to any other culprits?

The only sensor I know that would keep the comp from running period is the crank. I replaced the sensor, but haven't had time to pull the plug again and check continuity to the comp on the wires.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Ah your still running the OEM style C plugs. Personally I wouldnt ground to the cylinder heads, I always run a ground from the cylinder head to the car but I dont ground to the cylinder head. I either ground to the block or to the car body/frame. Something about iron block without a gasket etc but I know your block is aluminum in which case I would always ground to the body. Or run a jumper from the ground point on the cylinder head to the car at the exact point you grounded to the cyl head. Not saying you have to or thats your issue since you said it Ohm'd out.

Injectors require a minimum of 15amp fuses and coils I believe. I run 30 ampers but I converted mine to standalone and I run 8 coils to one fuse and relay and 4 injectors per relay/fuse (so I can diactivate 4 cylinders for a DOD situation if I trip a failsafe). But its the same as running 15amp fuses like you have done.

7-8v is very very low. You should have 11v min while cranking. Something is drawing a ton of power (starter) or you have no reserve on the battery/CCA/CA for it to crank. These LS motors dont need a ton of battery with the new mini starters they come with. 5.3 only requires like 650ca or something. I would setup up to a new battery before you chase your tail any further. Get one with 800cca and 1000ca from autozone for like $100-$130 (gold with 5 year warranty) and be done with it. My dad and brother both had optima red top batterys go bad and once they loose their charge they are almost impossible to bring back.

Unless you have a DC amp meter (pretty expensive) that can sense voltage/amps then your never really going to know what the starter is doing. But I did have a new starter go bad and it pulled a ton of amps after cranking for a min and would eat up the battery after a few cranks. Got a replacement starter and no more issue. That large of a voltage drop can only mean a few things:

1.) not enough battery power/reserve
2.) insufficent battery cable to transfer the current
3.) Bad starter eating amps.

If it were me and i love to throw money at my car lol I would get a new battery, upgrade the cable, and throw a new starter on it. Check out DBelectrical their mini starters are brand new and run $50 for the LS style and work very well. I run their starters and alternators with great success.

As far as the battery cable from the block... the block could be the culprit but from what I gathered you ran 4 gauge from the battery to the block, then 4 gauge from the block to the starter? IF thats the case then upgrading the 4 gauge from the block to the starter isn't going to do anything since the 4 gauge from the battery to the block is still the thinnest point. Honestly at your distance I would run 1/0 from the battery to the block, then 2 gauge from the block to the starter and call it a day. A popular quality wire is not to use battery cable or appliance wire but get welders wire (very fine high quality copper wire) and use solder terminals (Not CRIMP!). A loose or not great connection at the block could cause an issue as well.

Grounding of the starter is through the bolts to the block. and the block get grounded straight to the battery (which is why I always ground the block right to the battery as it limits possible issues) but you would have to ground to the frame or run a dedicated grounding block from the battery to the engine compartment. You could still run a short length of heavy gauge from the battery to car body in the trunk, then re-purpose the 4 gauge power block wire for remote battery grounding for the starter/block etc. Don't use this as your only point of ground but running a ground from the block to the frame and then from the block to the remote ground could supply a cleaner ground path.

Crank sensor brand? Style? grey or black plug? Not sure about aftermarket sensors but OEM had 24x and 58x crank reluctors. And i'm not sure if the sensors are different but I know the OEM sensors had different color sensor plug/caps. Grey = 58x and black = 24x. 98- 2005ish is 24x btw.

No idea how to check for bad PCM. Usually its just swap it out with a known good one and see if their is a difference.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

The ground strap is like 1 inch from the bolt grounding the stuff to the head. I can always move it over though so they are on the same thing just seemed crowded.

Grounding the jump box to the block and still having a voltage drop should rule that issue out though, correct?

There is not much reserve on the battery, but at one point I had a second battery and jump box hooked up... that should be enough, if not I'm in trouble lol. I think I still have a bunch of warrantee left on the Optima, so I will probably get another almost free one.

I'm gonna pull the starter in and take it to test
Possible, kind of eliminated but not 100%
Same, should have not had that big a drop with the jump box directly on the dist block and grounded to engine, but again not 100%.
I have nothing to dispute this at all right now.
I'll swap out the battery and get some new cable, take the starter in to test.
Correct on the cables. I'll get new cables and some more solder pellets to make sure they have good connection. I was able to do the battery terminals with pellets but they wouldn't fit the lugs I had, so I had to crimp those as it was the only option at 2am. I'll fix it tho. 4g is still good for the charging cable to the alt correct?

Battery is grounded with 4g in the trunk, grounded with 4g wire all the way to the block, then block is grounded to frame with 4g in the trans tunnel as well. Grounding the jump box to the engine should have ruled this out, but probably not 100% either.
Standard Motor PC278, which is what they list for this engine. Black plug. Engine was running with the old one I took out previously as well. Pretty sure this isn't it but on the long list still.

Guess I will have to rule the rest of this stuff out and then see if I can find another PCM that is tuned for a swap.



So plan right now, new batt, test starter, re run positive lines with 1/O and all soldered connections.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Agreed, Run 1/0 to distribution block capable of high amps (big basterd) and then run 2g to starter, 4g from alt to distribution block. 2g from block to frame, 1/0g from battery to car. While this might now fix the issue its how it should have been run before and should limit voltage drop and offer better starts, and increased charging.

Pocket on here does custom harnesses and knows the setups like the back of his hand. Maybe asking him what the possible cause could be would save you time and money. But deducing 7-8v while cranking is a no go and I can confirm thats too low lol.

*** see bold responses in quoted text as well.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Check these out... cheaper than on summit.
http://www.delcity.net/store/Junctio...FQcfhgodIswNZw

and these are with the 8 screws around for additional grounds/oulets.
http://www.delcity.net/store/8-Point...FcUmhgod3nAFZQ

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

I think it is a 900a, been working great and will keep the car turning a lot longer than the battery currently is.
Engine was running when pulled from donor with the previous sensor, it has not been running in my car yet.

I've been talking with a friend that does harnesses as well and he sent me a nice schematic to go through. No interesting ideas out of the norm though. If Jon chimes in that is more than welcome!?

I'm using basically the first type you posted right now, but it has a cover. I started to look at the second, and will probably get one of those, but gotta figure out where it is going to live permanently once the AC goes back in ect..

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Let me ask you this. When you crank the car over are you logging? Can you see the injector pulse width info? Any engine codes?

Have you tried starting fluid right before cranking? Just so you can verify fuel or spark related. I can't remember if you said both injectors and coils are dead. You should see large injector pulse widths during cranking like 10-14ms vs a nornal 1.5-2.5ms.

If it was running before your swap then its something you screwed with lol. Harness mods, electrical, PCM tune or fuel. I wonder did you mess with the trans settings?

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

No codes coming up and scanner looses connection when it turns over so I can't see any of that.

Coils and injectors maintain IGN power on the pink wire with key and when starter motor is turning. There is no pulse going to the purple wires on the coils to fire, nor to the injectors command wires.

Engine was bought out of a 4th gen that they sent me vids of it running. So take that with a grain of salt. PCM just had some changes for the LS7 MAF, VATS, and some small changes for the cam so it would run. No changes to the trans in the comp. I did bypass the clutch safety switch for now and hardwired the starter relay to bypass VATS. I rebuilt both the engine and trans. I have messed with this thing about as much as you can mess with one, so it is all on me. Just have to get it running now.

729rs

Hey im just about finishing my ls1 swap and seems kike I cant get my temperature gauge to work. I changed the original sensor for a 3 pin from napa and I shoots the gauge all the way forth as soon as I crank the car, I switch the wires and it still does it. Any ideas 02 ss ls1 on 90 rs

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

How is it wired? This is how I did mine, 90 should be the same C100 but double check and make sure your F5 wire on the C100 is dark green and going to the bottom pin on the coolant gauge. Make sure the other two wires are going to the correct pins on the PCM. Almost sounds like one of your wires is picking up IGN power?

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Well I thought I found my issue. When I started pulling the bat power wires to solder the ends this guy was just kinda hanging out. This is A4 on the C100 which I believe is what the purple starter wire feeds off of as well as guages etc..




Fixed all of those and now have soldered ends on all of the primary wires. Got a new more better dist block, so all the primaries have their own terminal.



Wired 1/0 from the battery up to the dist block. Also got a new Optima which is a little bigger 34 instead of a 25 group.



Dems big cables, more water hose sized than wire.



Just decided to run 1/0 for everything power since I had enough cable. Kinda difficult to route, but I was able to get a few clamps on to route it around the headers. Also used the starter terminal as a dist block for the alt wire instead of running everything to the bat dist block like I had. Should be a little cleaner.






Also realized that I had B32 (clutch switch) basically going to no where.



So then I grounded that terminal, as well as the oil level switch terminal R70 because I am not sure if they are tuned out or not.

I still have the same issue. No voltage drop anymore thanks to getting A4 to the dist block. So engine turns and continues to like it should, but no commands coming out of the PCM. I still have power at pink on coils and injectors and now have power on the green wire to the injectors as well? Is that correct? I thought that was the command wire?

For a while I had reading off of the ALDL when cranking and it was picking up RPM, so my crank sensor is good right? Now somehow it drops back off, so I have to figure out what is going on with that.

Also have a big jump when the engine turns like one cylinder is firing, but I don't hear any detonation. Cranked by hand fine though, maybe pressure building up?

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Yea they are big wires lol. Glad to here the voltage drop has been fixed.

Injectors get switched 12v and the other is the command wire. Basically a ground supplied by the PCM to allow the injector to fire. Honestly it sounds like you got something screwed up wiring wise. only the pink wire is suppose to have 12v. You should have signal to injectors during ranking as they are suppose to be opening up allowing much higher doses of cranking fuel. It should still pulse but will be more like 10ms + vs like 1.5ms idling.

I dont think the crank signal wire feeds the tach signal directly. Its produced by the PCM via the tach signal wire but it goes through a process since the crank is in 24 or 58x.

Need to figure out whats going on with the injector wiring.

Have you tried squirting a little starter fluid while cranking? You will be able to tell real quick what the issue is. Mine cranks for a while before starting over, sometimes 2 cranks.

It can only be fuel and spark either will fire and die or do nothing. I would hope the PCM is in decent working order so your not driving yourself crazy lol.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Still haven't checked for fuel pressure, trying to focus on what I know is wrong for the time being. If I'm still not getting firing after fixing this I'll start tracing fuel.

Good info, I guess for now I need to figure out why I have power on the injector trigger wire. I did not previously so this is strange. Also pin the crank sensor wires out to see if they are good. Then go through the whole harness and see what is what.