fiveoformula

Would be nice if I didnt have to open the system, but no big deal either way. Is it straight forward to take the box out in general?

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Not positive if the 88 bird is the exact same, but atleast on mine it as follows. Three screws on the engine bay side on the top, and one nut near cylinder #8, and then there are three more screws from the inside going to the bottom. At that point the box is free but tough to wrangle out. There are 5-6 small trim screws on the evap side of the box that can come off and the top cover for the evap will come off. After that the evap can be removed and then the rest of the box comes out a little easier. You may or may not be able to get the evap out without removing the lines, there is a hard line running from the evap to the condensor so you would have to account for that without snapping it.

fiveoformula

thanks for the info! Managed get all the AC stuff out in one piece without opening the system, but it was a real pain. I should have opened the system. Oh well.
Anyway, got the box out and made a 2" hole for the wiring to go through. Things are coming together and I'm really getting tempted to hook everything up and turn the key. Also bought the Holley AC bracket for the OE style high mount compressor.

fiveoformula

Also, I am assuming the single purple wire is for the S terminal on the starter? Pocket?

fiveoformula

test fitted the AC compressor in the Holley bracket (this was actually before I pulled the AC and box out). But it looks great.

R13_Braz

You are correct. I advise putting some extra heat shielding on that wire. Mine got kinda hot thanks to the headers. lol

fiveoformula

Not a bad idea, I did wrap my headers, so heat shouldn't be a big issue in that area. I mostly did the header wrap in fear of the header rattling against the passenger frame rail. It's close, and i figured the wrap would possibly dampen some noise.
By the way Braz, I really like your car and your build thread, yours is one of the builds that got me motivated to get started with my swap. Keep up the good work!

R13_Braz

Thank you! First time I've been told it's motivated someone lol. I appreciate it!

Even still, can't be too careful. Interesting idea on the wrap for noise dampening. Mine rattles every now and then.... maybe I should give that a shot.

fiveoformula

No problem! Glad you never gave up despite problems too. lol

What do you guys recommend for a power distribution block? stock one ok? Or is there something easy to find that looks/works better?

R13_Braz

Man, I don't like failure. I accept it, but I don't like it lol.

Here's what I've gone with. Except for the fans, I run all of my power off it. Fans are direct from battery to relay (learned the hard way when I burnt out the terminals on the last PD block lol).

https://www.delcity.net/store/ATC-&-...-6!way/p_10960

fiveoformula

I am a stubborn SOB too. lol


Loaded up the chicken to get back to its own coop, I dont want to hog my buddies shop/lift any longer, basically have only the details under the hood to do anyway.

fiveoformula

Got the wiring hooked up enough to connect the battery, nothing arc'd, nothing smoked, good sign! decided to bump the key, starter turns! wahoo! My buddy with HP tuners is coming over this weekend to unlock/tune the PCM, then we'll add some fluids and spark plugs and attempt to fire it.
Still need to figure out all the vacuum routing and cooling system.
Also, I thought I had read that a factory third gen power steering pressure hose would work with the LS1 pump, but it seems way off. Will I need an LS1 pressure line?

fiveoformula

Hopefully this is the last list I need to make

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Gettin close man, looks good!

Unless you are running the vac bulb or other vac stuff cc etc.. all you need is the big hose on the booster to the big one on the intake, then the small side goes to the cabin for hvac controls and run a line to the heater valve. I just got heat and AC all set up and running. I'll post some pics in my thread on Monday. Let me know if you need to see anything specific.

The heat shield Hooker makes with this swap kit works great, and only like $50. Also I have a bunch of grommets if you need one, I had to buy a pack of like 20 or something retarded.

fiveoformula

Thanks!
So I can plug off everything else? like the ports on the intake right behind the throttle body?

Which port should the PCV valve go to?

Also, the map sensor does not seem to fit in its hole very well, feels loose, like there would be vacuum leak there.

fiveoformula

Might be having an issue.
I turn the key, starter engages the flex plate and turns the engine over, but the Bendix in the starter does not return. It stays meshed with the flex plate until I unbolt the starter all together.
I have a truck flex plate and a Fbody starter, shouldn't they work together? Do LS1 starters need shims? Other ideas?

fiveoformula

Whoops double post

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

I run the stock 5.3 with a LS starter. I think they are all the same. I know they did away with the one long and one short bolt due to strength issues. My new starter came with the longer bolt to replace the short one. I just bolted it up and it's worked fine. It might be a starter issue. Can you pull it out and verify the clearance with the flex plate as the gear meshes? I think on the old school Chevy I used a paper clip which is like .060 or something.

Maybe the flex plate is bent? I see your already missing a tooth which isn't a good sign.

fiveoformula

I might be worried for nothing. I'll see what it does when I have a PCM and can actually start the engine. That pic makes it look like I am missing a tooth on the flex plate, but I'm not. I double checked, must be a shadow in the pic.

fiveoformula

The starter thing ended up not being an issue.

Got it started and drove around the block! Had a missfire code that mysteriously disappeared. And I have code for something to do with speedometer output, while driving the car, I noticed the speedometer does not work, and the trans didn't want to shift into second until I let off the throttle. I'm guessing those are related. Do I need to bypass the yellow buffer box?

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Yes, you need to bypass the buffer

fiveoformula

Well, good news is that I bypassed the buffer box and that fixed the speedometer, and the SES light went out. Bad news is that trans issue still exists, worse news is that I never once got it to shift into 2nd gear. It was going from 1st to 3rd, then it had overdrive for most of my test run, but now it doesn't seem to shift out of 3rd.

fiveoformula

Proof that it runs! The 5.3 runs amazing! wish I could say the same for the transmission. Will be getting on the phone with the guy that rebuilt it today hopefully.

fiveoformula

Have lots to finish up under the hood, towards the end of course I got really excited to get it running. One of the things that is going to drive me nuts is the hose that runs from the truck steam pipe to the heater hose, it looks gross but it is functional.

R13_Braz

I ran mine underneath the throttle body, down the water pump and over to the radiator (I put a nipple fitting in there). Also, that looks like a pretty large hose? I don't remember, but I THINK mine is 3/8's.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Yea I ran mine under my cold air intake to the radiator. The port on my radiator was a nipple instead of a thread so its 3/4 hose to a 3/4 to 3/8 male to male fitting and then the line running from the steam port.

Grats on getting it running!

fiveoformula

Thanks! Despite the trans issue, I am super stoked. It runs smooth, the F-body LS1 tune must be pretty close, still need to get a bung in the exhaust so I can hookup my AEM wideband.
It spun the tires from a roll with about 60% throttle in 1st (havent gone more than that yet) but the "mystery stall" felt like it flashed between 2600-2800rpm, pretty happy with that.
No new rattles or anything like that, although my intermitten wipers are acting funny, basically only have the two highest speeds on the wipers right now, very odd, condsidering they worked normally before the swap.

fiveoformula

Got the transmission back out of the car last night after work. Brought it to a local trans shop today, they're going to figure out what went wrong for me. I noticed part of the problem half way through getting the transmission out. Wish I had snapped a pic, the 2-4 servo cover tried to leave the trans case, cracked the case at in the part where the snap ring goes for the servo cover. I can't imagine anything I did caused this, but it wasn't like that when I put the trans in.
Any thoughts? The crack definetly Explains why I had no 2nd gear. But I don't know what caused it.

Edit: quick search shows this happens frequently if the servo cover snapring was not installed all the way or there was debris in the snapring-land. Basically The guy that rebuilt this thing did a sloppy job.

fiveoformula

While I am figuring out what to do for a transmission, I thought I'd work on some details. What's everybody done for a throttle cable? I bought a 4th gen one, hooked it up, its not quite right, I don't have full throttle. Figured I'd ask before I start modifying parts.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Universal LS lokar braided. Cut to length. Since I'm running a truck intake the cable mount is not existent so I used washers to bolt it down to the stock bracket. My gas pedal has be modified slightly with a small tab welded on the end to accept the clevis/pin on the locker. Slips right on, full movement and no binding. works great. LS cables are annoying bc they have the brass end with no extra.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

I used the lokar too, but switched the cable ends around, no mod to gas pedal.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

This, you cut the plastic clip off the old 3rd gen cable and use it instead of the clevis on the Lokar

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

Are you guys using a universal Lokar or the one specifically made for the ls1 swap?

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Well I used a universal only bc I had modded the gas pedal for the universal lokar already. But it's the universal LS1 style and make sure you get enough length. Didn't know about reusing the stock plastic clip, wish I knew 6yesrs ago when I swapped and nodded mine over.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

I recently put a Lokar cable on my car for the carb/vortec 350 swap and had to mod the pedal as well so Im wondering if I should go with the universal as well.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I went with the universal because that was all that was available when I bought mine. I didn't know they made an LS style one? I want the midnight series now that I have seen it, but again, it wasn't available then

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I merged the 3rd and 4th gen cables to make a "correct" cable with all the right features. End result is a seamless product that is the way the factory would have done it. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5823889

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Your pictures are all broken over in that thread, at least for the cable

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

If I've seen it... not sure that I have. Its 2 cables, OE original 3rd gen cable through the firewall, cut then splice in a cut LS cable. Crimp the 2 together with a cable crimp. While I remember seeing pics on this forum i can't be sure it was his. While it prob worked fine it made me cringe just because its 2 cables crimped together. Esp on something important like the throttle cable... its like $50 for a lokar LS cable. And I have peice of mind it will not come apart and look good while doing it.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Probably a Photobucket problem. Refreshing the page worked for me.


I know what you're talking about. That was a shitty hack job.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

My experience is that Lokar will not fit a FAST 102-R intake (LS3 style).
And let's be honest, Lokar clearly does not fit the firewall.


The stock 3rd gen firewall plug creates the correct approach angle to the throttle pedal. No rubbing or fretting of the cable and smoothest pedal feel.

fiveoformula

II ended up making a hybrid 3rd gen/ 4th gen cable. Seems to work great. Haven't run the engine yet.
Just got my transmission back from shop number 2, will be installing it this weekend. The guy that rebuilt the first one basically took my money, did the worst hackjob rebuild ever, and told me it was "built".

fiveoformula

It runs again! Still working bugs out. Seems to stumble when you touch the throttle leaving a stop, I suspect a vacuum leak of some kind. Also the exhaust is LOUD! Louder than I thought it would be, especially under some load, at idle it isn't bad.
I guess I should have expected that from long tubes/no muffler/no cat. I think I make more noise than the straight pipe turbo diesel pickups around here.

johnw999

Looks good. Is there an advantage to staying with stock A/C compressor? I bought a kwik high mount A/C bracket and a Sanden compressor. I'm not sure what A/C lines to buy yet. I just want to keep air conditioning after the swap, so any tips are appreciated! Also, Hawks has a speedometer cable.

http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/thro...tle-cable-kit/

fiveoformula

I mainly stayed with the stock third gen compressor because its already there, system worked, and with the high mount bracket I wouldnt have to notch the K member for the low mounted 4th gen compressor.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Only if you want to stay with R12 refrigerant.

fiveoformula

Little update- built my cold air intake, although I'm not really that happy with it, now my washer bottle doesn't fit. Ill be changing it later. Since I installed the intake, the engine is much more happy, no stumble leaving a stop, and the idle is much smoother. Actually made the exhaust more tolerable too. Although still too loud.
One thing I am worried about is that my oil pressure appears low on the factory gauge. Have not verified with a mechanical gauge yet, and the engine is not noisey or anything but I need to figure it out before I do much more driving. I've put about 150 miles on it, and the engine hasn't missed a beat, really happy with how it's running. Just unsettling to see the oil pressure gauge show about 15psi at a warm idle.
I had the oil pump off when I did the cam swap, used a new oil pump O-ring (came with the F body pickup tube I purchased from the dealer). And I'm running a one wire oil pressure sending unit that is for a '98 LS1 F body. I don't know what the oil pressure was before the cam swap since I never ran the engine myself, until I put it in my car. Any thoughts on that?

fiveoformula

There it is sitting pretty, still need to get the center console back together and tuck away the PCM in the factory location, but that's all just details.

92BLKL98

Nice job the build went quite well. I'm working on mine with a 6.0 LQ9. I bought RI longtubes too they do not fit well with contact on the right sub frame and about 1/2" clearance on the left side. I wish I could massage these headers to the inboard on both collectors but I guess the best for me is to buy a set of Hookers. So far everything else is going well.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Dont worry about the idle oil PSI. Mine is low too... like 20psi hot idle and that was with 5w20 dyno oil. I now run 15w40ish and picked up a smidge of idle PSI but it wasn't anything to worry about. Your on throttle oil pressure is more important. Look at the oil PSI as you touch the gas... should shoot up to 30-40psi and possibly hit 50psi depending on the RPM.

What exhaust do you have? I saw the pic of the headers/ypipe and the tube going back... I assume is a 4" from the looks of the Ypipe. If thats the case your **** outa luck lol. I ran a 4" with dual mufflers and I couldnt take the loudness on throttle, idle was fine. 100 miles I tore it off and went with summit 3" catback and couldnt be happier.