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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Updates! Car was up in the air for a few weeks (like a month lol).
Lots of changes have been made.
1.) Stock power bulge hood now on (4.5" cowl is taking a rest)
2.) small case 140amp black powder coated alternator for hood clearance
3.) AEM progressive meth controller installed
4.) Only running 1 AEM nozzle at 250cc now at 18" pre TB
5.) FMIC is back on with tubing
6.) Added a wyntom 44mm BOV between the SC and IC and also running the TS 38mm BOV right before the TB.
7.) Swapped 1 set of eBay H1 bixenon projectors for morimoto MH1 7.0s with 5500k bulbs
8.) Removed 4" exhaust and went with a summit racing 3" catback then installed some CME 4th gen center outlet exhaust tips
9.) removed the founders PHB relocation bar and brackets
10.) installed OEM PHB support bar
11.) picked up used 91 firebird gas tank to replace my sumped stock tank
12.) installed Aeromotive stealth 340lph in tank pump
Overall the car is much better for the street. Very happy with the exhaust, hood and other changes. Don't feel like I lost any noticeable performance with the 3" cutback and its def quieter than the 4" which means I can drive it harder without attracting as much attention. Windshield view is now much greater! lol. The dual BOV's really quieted down the off throttle air noise although I think the 44mm is leaking. Engine temps have climbed due to the FMIC but never got hotter than 205*F today and it was HOT at 93*F ambient. Car felt good. Will get some pics up when she's all clean and picture worthy again! Waiting on a rubber front chin spoiler cheap material to cover up the CME center exhaust piping.
Took the car out today for some thrashing and to test the more water I added to the cooling system and some ducting to seal of the radiator. Car ran real nice and engine temps stayed below 190*F I believe but I'll confirm with my logs. Boost came in real nice and my log showed 9ish PSI but I def saw my gauge say 10psi for a split sec. I ended up having to lean out the upper 130+kpa a bunch more as I'm running 10:1s rich.
Loving the new exhaust so much more the more I drive it. Car is super fun to drive now and scary fast! IAT temps are under control finally and decided to add the other meth nozzle back before the supercharger.
Still not done with the back of the car to cover up the exhaust. Painted the pipes black now so they are hidden more (after this video of course) here's a quick video of it idling with the new exhaust and tips.
https://youtu.be/qG4UDW8ir6c
Last edited by customblackbird; 07-30-2016 at 11:06 PM.
Decided to increase the air dam length alittle to help with cooling a smidge. I decided to add foam garage door seals to my headlights to cover the openings when down. Got some goodies coming for her for next season. LQ9 cam, heat sink truck coils, new lifters and trays and prob a new reman set of 862 heads that I'll swap springs to LS6 and do some port work on. New heads will be knotch free so the engine will most likely get MLS gaskets and a high volume oil pump. Prob over the winter as I have to pull the motor to make my life easier.
Some pics of the cosmetic mods. Mods you can see is I've been working on the tune considerably and hope to be at 18* total. Last outing I saw 10psi at 5200rpms which was awsome.
Garage door foam double sided tapped.
Side view
Home Depot door will gap closer extension a whole 1 3/8" length increase but it's all rubber so if it scrapes it comes right back. Pretty genius I know!
Foam done to both headlights. Looks alittle more stock now.
Lets start the mods!
Going to be refreshing the top end as its got 150k on it and oil pressure is good. I have started aquiring parts for about 150hp gain with increased reliability hopefully. Just going to upgrade the valvetrain, new ported stock heads, cam swap.
Parts:
1.) reman 862 heads (I just finished porting 1 and reasembled with high lift/rate behives) pics, decided I needed new heads when I found mine are knotched and I can't run MLS gaskets... so got the remans off ebay and went to town on them.
2.) ARP head bolts
3.) Morel 5315 lifters (step up over stock/LS7s)
4.) Straub bushing stock rocker retrofit kit
5.) Low mile LS rockers for bushing retrofit
5.) low mile LQ9 cam
What I still need to get is...
1.) full gasket kit
2.) GMPP stock LS1 MLS head gaskets\
3.) Dissasemble and port the other head.
4.) Use either LQ9 cam or go custom and gain a bunch more power
5.) LS2 lifter trays
I'll leave the motor in the car and just pull the top end probably. Reuse the OE timing chain, slide the new cam in, lifters, heads, rockers and call it a day. Im guessing I will go from 12psi to 9psi but gain 150hp.
some pics of the head work I just finished
I removed the swirl ramps, and blended the bowl around the guide. Tappered the valve guide for flow and removed any of the valve seat ridges. Intake didn't need much due to the smaller valves. The exhaust actually had some of the 82* valve seat showing so I removed that. The exhaust I decided to fully sand the exhaust runner to smooth it out some, sanded down to a 120 grit and it's pretty smooth. Tapering the valve guide and opening the valve seat machining really opened it up. Hopefully the 120 grit is smooth enough, def smoother than the original casted finish by far.
Then I decided to look into the chambers. Decided to unshround the exhaust valve alittle and polished around the exhaust valve in the chamber. Then I decided to smooth out the rest of the chamber but more just polished around the exhaust valve. The chamber finishes are so rough that's why I decided to smooth it out alittle. Of course I smoothed out the spark plug bosses.
Cleaned them out and put it all back together. Swapped the OE springs for high lift/higher rate howards beehives. Fit together like stock. But good for .600 lift and has alittle more spring rate than PAC 1218s and only cost $120.
U shrouding the valve
Finished intake finish
Finished exhaust
Chambers
Dynamic duo!
All done! I used permatex engine assembly lube for the guides and locks so it's lubed for a long long time till engine startup. Stuff is awsome and I've used it on my last 3 motors.
Been real busy busy with the car getting everything done.
motor was pulled and got to work on it. Pulled every cover and painted wrinkle black and installed new seals everywhere. I also picked up a cam motion custom cam 218/228 .564 114+4.5 and was told it's a minimum of 80+hp gain.
mods done to the motor:
custom cam installed
morel 5315 lifters installed
new Ls2 lifter trays and bolts
5/16" moly pushrods
Straub bushing retrofitted stock rockers
new cloyes stock timing chain and gears
GMPP HV oil pump
oil pump pickup tube girdle
GM LS1 MLS head gaskets
ported 862 heads with Howard .600 lift springs
ARP head bolts
used LS1 knock sensors one of mine was really corroded
Stainless header studs using remflex header gaskets
on the outside of the motor:
new flowkooler water pump painted wrinkle black
new billet black waterpump spacers that use real gaskets and not orings.
New speed engineering billet accessory brackets
dirty dingo billet 5" power steering pulley
new dorman shaved truck intake
ported stock TB
New AC delco truck balancer
new gates speretine belt
New shorter LS1 9mm spark plug wires
debating if I want to spent $275 on getting my headers ceramic coated. It's prob a good idea as the supercharger inlet is right over my pass side header so that's prob going to happen as well.
car engine bay is getting cleaned up wiring wise and made some improvements in the fuse panel by replacing my 2 and consolidating it into one cleaner unit. All wires are being looked and routed cleaner.
I might be removing my large tranny cooler and going smaller to help with airflow to the rad as the intercooler is messing that all up lol.
Good news is the motor should be going back in the car soon and then it's just bolting everything back on.
Pulled the massive trans cooler and 31x12" FMIC. Pulled the trigger on a much smaller FMiC and going with my old B&M supercooler for the tranny. Will have to snap a pic of the difference. Going to put the tranny cooler right up on the rad in the upper left side looking at the car from the front. Or I'm going to remote mount it somewhere behind the fender/bumper. The issue is all the FMIC tuning gets in the way and makes it tight.
I figured getting rid of the large tranny cooler and shrinking the FMIC will help any cooling issues I was having. As they only really started after the FMIC install. I figure downsizing isn't the best for power and IAT temps but if it helps I'm fine with that as That's why I'm spraying water meth lol.
Got most of the wiring all done. Just need to mount the new FMIC and tranny cooler. Weld a bung in the IC piping and in the header and get those coated. just alittle more work ahead and then it's putting it all back together.
Pulled the massive trans cooler and 31x12" FMIC. Pulled the trigger on a much smaller FMiC and going with my old B&M supercooler for the tranny. Will have to snap a pic of the difference. Going to put the tranny cooler right up on the rad in the upper left side looking at the car from the front. Or I'm going to remote mount it somewhere behind the fender/bumper. The issue is all the FMIC tuning gets in the way and makes it tight.
I figured getting rid of the large tranny cooler and shrinking the FMIC will help any cooling issues I was having. As they only really started after the FMIC install. I figure downsizing isn't the best for power and IAT temps but if it helps I'm fine with that as That's why I'm spraying water meth lol.
Got most of the wiring all done. Just need to mount the new FMIC and tranny cooler. Weld a bung in the IC piping and in the header and get those coated. just alittle more work ahead and then it's putting it all back together.
Here's a pick of the very large trans cooler I just removed vs the B&M. The B&M is roughly 1/4 the size. I hope it can handle the heat of the tranny and a 2400 stall. I don't have a cooler in the rad so this is the only form of cooling for the tranny. I do have a permacool 160 tranny thermostat installed. Which if I remember right starts opening at 160 and fully open by 180.
Well got some work done. Removed the old 31x12x3" FMIC and tranny cooler and figured out how in going to mount the. New smaller intercooler and tranny cooler.
Some pics comparing the old vs new FMIC. The new one is 3.5" core and 4" endtanks. The tube and fin design I hope will be more efficient as it actually has fins in the IC core vs the bar and plate which had none.
I fabbed up some new mounts using 3/16" steel rod for both the IC and tranny cooler. The tranny cooler will be mounted to the IC at the bottom and mounted to the cross bar at the top. The design I was after was to keep airflow restriction at a minimum to the radiator. There is already a lot more room than before so I'm sure it will be fine. Will see about how well the new coolers do at keeping everything cool.
New tube and fin intercooler inside Old bar and plate design
Looks good and quite a bit smaller. Mines got 4" oval end takes as well. Actually mines a little more oval then yours. I wondered did someone make them oval or come from Procharger that way (mines a Procharger cooler). Is oval better?
Looks good and quite a bit smaller. Mines got 4" oval end takes as well. Actually mines a little more oval then yours. I wondered did someone make them oval or come from Procharger that way (mines a Procharger cooler). Is oval better?
Yea the size worries me alittle as the larger one kept my IATs in check but I'm also using water/meth injection. So technically I don't need an intercooler but since I'm street driven it helps keep the initial temps lower to help with timing being pulled.
Not sure im following your oval comment. The inner channels are oval shaped but don't think they offer any advantage. It looks like a bar and plate style due to the lack of fins inside the IC the Efficency has got to be craptastic. Which is why the new one has shaped tube and fins on the inside of the plates. While smaller i feel that the added fins will help with the efficency which will hurt flow alittle. But the end tanks are farther away from he inside tubes atthe top so the air has to make a much less adbrupt turn out of it and out the 3" inlet/outlet. I figure this helps flow as well. Due to the overall size loss, the smaller but thicker core with more fins should offset that. My motor should only be making 650-700hp but that's max power which I spend very little time hitting. Most of the time around town I'm lucky to hit 4-6psi.
Pulled my headers and dropped them off at the ceramic coaters. Hope to have them in a week or so. Got all the wiring done basically and everything is loomed and cleaned up. Redid my fan wiring completely and ran all the wiring in the shroud for a cleaner look and ease of disconnection/removal.
new smaller intercooler is final mounted as well as new smaller tranny cooler. I had to put new fittings and lines in as I'm dropping down form -8an to -6an from the thermostat.
I pulled my headlights and fixed the alignment so they are dead on for all 4 bixenon projectors. I also swapped out my 6k bulbs with DDM 55w ballasts on the inner pair of projectors for some 4500 morimoto XB bulbs and denso 35w ballasts. Those things are crazy, instant on and awsome. My headlight setup now is morimoto 7.0 MH1 projectors on the outside with 5500k morimoto XB bulbs and morimoto XB 50w ballasts and cheap eBay MH1 on the inside with 4500k morimoto XB bulbs and 35w denso ballasts. I only aligned them at a 15ft distance so hopefully they will be good at a distance.
I pulled my catback off and removed the gas tank to swap the aeromotive 340 out for a walbro 450lph. I really hope this is the last time I have to do this ugh. I'm going to lengthen some wires and hopefully they use the same plug inside the tank.
Removed the summit catback and started looking at the new dynomax ultra SS muffler to replace it. The muffler is longer but smaller and the inside looks much better for flow. Gotta see how I'm gonna have to modify everything to fit and line up with the center exhaust tips.
Motor is all ready to drop in. But I did order a new cheap SFI flexplate and new converter pilot adapter and some ARP bolts to swap the stock stuff out. It was last minute even tho I already put the flexplate back on etc. figured it's alittle extra safety and nows the time to do it. I hope to get the pump swapped and the exhaust back in quickly and then just waiting on the flexplate and headers.
Some pics. Inside the dynomax. Free flowing yPipe inside basically. New smaller intercooler and tranny cooler all mounted That's just one headlight. Both projectors perfectly aligned Inside the tucking summit racing chambered muffler
pulled the exhaust and tank sat night. Swapped the aeromotive 340 out for the walbro 450. Installed and tested. Put it all back in and swapped the summit muffler for the dynomax ultra SS and put it all back together.
Wasnt thay easy and I had a lot of choice words getting the tank out and back in. Muffler was 2" longer so I had to cut and modify the rest of the exhaust for it to work. The CME tips also make it a lot harder.
this means all that's left is putting the motor back in and all that. Whoop whoop!
walbro 450 wasn't that hard but I lucked out bc the aeromotive 340 uses the same plug. The 450 does not fit as well in the hanger too.
Walbro on top Double the clamps=double the fun I redid the wiring out of the tank and extended the wires to make my life easier, all 14 gauge wiring so the pump gets full voltage as the 450 pulls like 18amps or something crazy.
Reminds me of when i switched from the wally 250 to my 450.Plugs were the same.And i had to bend the hanger slightly for the 450 also and worm clamped it into place. Car is coming along ..almost there lol
Reminds me of when i switched from the wally 250 to my 450.Plugs were the same.And i had to bend the hanger slightly for the 450 also and worm clamped it into place. Car is coming along ..almost there lol
I didnt have to bend the hanger, I doesnt really fit where the base is tho. I used a clamp on the 340 and I decided to run 2 on the 450. The isolator isn't holding up too well between the pump and clamps but it is what it is. I tried to reuse everything that was on the stock pump and then the 340 so it helps with vibration and noise. I do not want to be pulling this tank for a long time!
When I tested it, it seemed quieter than the 340 alittle. At 12.2-12.5v with a 10amp charger on the battery it pumped out 1.25 gallons in 1 min. which is only 284lph at 0psi which seems very low compared to the 413lph or 109gph that its rated at. This is through the stock 3/8" hard line at the tank and then -6an after. I'm going to check my 40 micron inline filter and verify its clean which it should be.
Got some parts today! PRW 29.1 SFI rated flexplate came today. The fun part was it was suppose to come with a crank adapter but instead they shipped me 2 of the same SFI flexplates! That's a deal lol. I can reuse the original converter adapter I have as it's held up fine thus far. Going to see if they will send out the adapter anyways. I prob won't wait for it to come tho as it took 5 days to get the flexplate. We'll see and depends when I can get the motor in.
I also did an impulse buy and have been trying to figure out how I want to do this but decided! I'm sick of backing up and not seeing where things are or how close I am. I guess my 14 ram with a backup camera has spoiled me lol. Sooooo I ordered a $36 back up camera off Amazon with 1 day free shipping and tested it out. The mirror clips right on the stock mirror and seems to work very well. I went with a hard wired version as I've heard the wireless have lag issues and signal noise etc. should take a max of 1 hour to install and very excited about it! It has IR night vision and everything and it's a normal mirror till it turns on. Signaling right off the reverse light for power and it turns on immediately. It's a 4.3" screen with distance lines and it's pretty bright.
Good news is the headers are done, guys baking them a 3rd time to make sure they are cured. tmrw. So I will make time to go pick them up this weekend as that's what's stopping me from putting the motor back in. Will get some pics of them when I get them.
Gotta start flying as we're planning for my sons 1st bday party next month and it's race car themed!
Man, be firing it up soon enough!!! Funny, cause my wife got a newer car with backup camera and it's spoiled me as well. I miss it when I'm in my truck.
Man, be firing it up soon enough!!! Funny, cause my wife got a newer car with backup camera and it's spoiled me as well. I miss it when I'm in my truck.
yea my truck has it and I love it. Of course my trucks had the lines that move with the wheels so it's even better but im
very excited about backing up now in my firebird. I'm also thinking about installing a 2nd camera in the front so I can see how close I'm getting and not scrape it on anything. The mirror has 2 inputs so all I need to do is figure out how to switch the front one when I'm parking so it might have to be some form of manual control.
Got the headers back yesterday and they seem to have turned out decent. As long as they don't chip or peel and help keep heat off the supercharger inlet I'm happy.
Headers are in, stainless studs are pretty sweet and man those remflex gaskets are thick. Might have an issue with the flexplate being off center or out of round.
Hoping to get it running soon to verify the flexplate being ok.
Got most of it back together. Intake is bolted on, modified the new ported TB for a more adjustable TV cable. Most of all the connections are made. I need to extend the TPS and IAC plug wires a good bit to clear the new intake manifold. I finished up the intercooler and got the 4" coupler installed to make up the difference in length. I also had to cut the Throttle cable to fit the new length... man I hope the intake works well!I thought about adding a 1/8" and 3/8" bung into that SS pipe for another IAT port and a meth injector bung but I think I'm stepping down I the meth alittle. Going from dual nozzle pre SC and re TB to a pre TB only. Coupler can always be pulled out and bungs welded in if need be. Also the STB does fit however it basically rests on the intake manifold so I'm not really cool with that and possible rubbing into the intake manifold. So I might have to knotch that.
i also decided to flower the fuel pressure to 44psi from 58psi. This means I need to change it in the tune, hoping this is alittle easier on the pump etc. I could have prob gotten away with the 340 now but the 450 will provide more fuel as safety and if I upgrade more down the road or if the pump looses output over time.
things left to do:
plug in the cooling fans
extend TPS and IAC wires
install new gapped plugs
spark plug wires
put oil and coolant in it
install backup and front camera.
go from dual to 1 meth nozzle
Apparently I missed a few things lol. Today I buttoned up a few things I forgot ugh.
Had to reconnect the High pressure PS line and return. Also installed a billet PS filter in the return line (to keep the hydroboost happy). Plugged in the fan connections and removed one of the meth nozzles and plumbed for just the one. Also installed all the spark plugs (gapped at .035") and the new plug wires.
I also forgot to pressure test the new FMIC and piping. So I did that today and besides a leak at the BOV (its a leak by design) I couldn't find anything at the IC itself. That means the rest hasn't really changed and thus it shouldn't leak. I need to fab some new radiator blockoffs for the sides and install the air dam for the front. I also bent my filter Mag to fit the smaller LS filter and seems like its going to work well.
Still need to:
1.) Fill the rad (thinking of -10*F coolant and water with wetter. But I had to run pure water and wetter last summer) ugh... I hate flushing the coolant out for winter tho.
2.) Hook the overflow tank back up
3.) Extend the TPS and IAC wires
4.) Put oil in the motor
5.) Supercharger inlet piping
6.) install cold side plumbing for good from the pass side tray area to the TB
7.) Install Battery
8.) change tune for lower Fuel pressure and adjust injector data.
9.) backup & Front camera, tail light mods etc
So, what hp numbers you think you might be at with this pump? I'm trying to decide on this single or buy ls1 tank and use Chris's plug and play setup on ls1tech for duals. Looks like 650-700 is the wall for a single 450.
Nevermind, I see the other thread you started in Power Adder
lol yea. the 450 will support ALOT of hp. the 340 is good for 900-1000hp max but the 450 will support another 300hp over that. Realize it all depends on pressure but at 40-50psi both pumps will support 700hp no worries.
2 important things are
1.) real walbros are made in the USA
2.) aeromotive 340 made in china.
The LS1 tank is nice bc aftermarket senders are available and the opening is larger so you can run more pumps easily and if you need larger lines than stock. But seeing as a 450 in the stock 3rd gen tank should support ALOT of hp... your prob better and alot richer if you just throw a 340-450 in the stock tank.
Tail light mods are done. Now all bulbs are running/brake lights except the very ends which are turn signals (85-90 TA grid lights). All bulbs are high powered LEDs as well.
Back up camera is installed on the plate and ive started running the wiring inside the car. Shouldnt take long to run all that except I need to run the wiring for the front camera as well as well as power for the monitor.
Ordered a larger tranny cooler... not sure if Im going to need it or just swap it out now but I will have to change the mounting alittle (gona be tight!).
Tranny cooler came. Installed it for the most part. I need to put new tabs to hold it in at the bottom through the intercooler but it's mounted and lines hooked up. I had to push the intercooler like 1/2-3/4" farther away from the radiator to make room for the tranny cooler at the bottom.
I was was able to lengthen the TPS, IAC and alternator wires the 6" they needed to be to plug in. Also the new PCV lines and fitting are done. I also finished the backup camera install. I have most of the wire run for the front camera but not sure if I'm going to do it due to switching it on and off. No way to make it automatic and only when parking so I have to put a manual switch somewhere thought about using the push button on my B&M shifter handle but that was suppose to be for the line lock that I don't use anymore.
mocked up the relocated BOV and looks like it will work.
i need some really flexible silicone hose in 1/2" size to connect to the back of the intake to the vacuum/boost block. It's too hard of a bend and short to work with rubber hose.
Some pics of the new and smaller tranny cooler as well as more engine shots.
New cooler.
Cooler is finnally fully installed. Had to remove the radiator again to get the room to finish ugh. But everything is back in. Ordered the 1/2" silicone hose for the vacuum/boost block and that's about it. Need to finish up the air dam and make some new ducting around the IC and radiator ducting. Not sure about the front camera still as it would require a switch and more wiring lol.
Other than that it just needs all its fluids, tube changed for fuel pressure and injector flow rates, air dam and ducting. I haven't tested everything as I can't put the battery in still due to the temps. Plus we're about to get slammed with 18-24" of snow starting in 2 hours.
Been adding a full sound system and sub to my 14 ram in the mean time.
Snow wasnt that bad, 10" roughly but the winds were the worst. Actually knocked a large tool chest over and onto the driver fender of the car. I was pissed! Luckily no real damage but this tent this year has been kicking my cars @SS and it's got more dings and paint chips from stuff hitting it or the tent flexing. After I tipped the chest back over I moved it against the car so it couldn't fall into the car again. Then the snow bulged the tent sides and wedged the chest against the car. lol I can't win! I then had to wait a few days and then dig the tent out so I could free up the chest.
Onto the important stuff. I got the 1/2" silicone hose installed behind the intake to the boost block. The bent is alittle sharp and the hose wants to kink but so far hasn't. I put a zip tie on the bend to keep it from kinking. Decided to leave the charge pipe the way it was with the BOV further away from the TB. It fit better closer to the TB but the welded fittings stuck straight out in the open and I was worried about hood clearance.
Air dam is back on. I need to pick up a strong tie metal strap from HD to finish it off. And finished off some looming and connecting the IAT sensors in the charge piping.
Since I lowered fuel pressure to 44psi I made the change in the PCM but want to verify the data is correct so I have to call FIC tmrw. Other than that it's just fluids and the footwell interior paneling on the driver side and some small stuff. Need to put the battery in it and verify everything works and so I can update the tune. But my sons 1st bday is in 2 weeks so I've been consumed the last month working on and cleaning the house. Will be gone this coming weekend so I won't be working on it for at least 2 weeks.
really worried about the flexplate being and issue and having to remove the driveshaft, crossmember and tranny.
Made the last bracket for the air dam, so that's fully done. I filled the power steering pump with fluid. And mounted the front facing camera and ran the wire to connect it to the mirror monitor. Still need to figure out how I want to activate it but I have power right at the camera but I need to figure out how to activate it when I want to. So I'm thinking of using the shifter button but running the wire isn't going to be fun.
Pics Ce of the front camera mounted. It's much smaller so u don't even know it's there. I'm thinking of swapping the rear one out down the road for a much smaller compact version if I like it. I also have a great idea for a large full length 3rd brake light which is on its way from super bright LEDs.
This thing is coming along! love the front end camera idea, it's a little unnerving sometimes to guess where the front end is. Can't wait to see what you end up with.
I apologize if you covered this already, but with the LED turn signals, what flasher relay did you use to get a normal on/off rate?
This thing is coming along! love the front end camera idea, it's a little unnerving sometimes to guess where the front end is. Can't wait to see what you end up with.
I apologize if you covered this already, but with the LED turn signals, what flasher relay did you use to get a normal on/off rate?
yea im always afraid of hitting the nose or the air dam area. The nice thing about this camera is that it's a rear view camera but has 2 external wires you clip that unflips the image and removed the distance lines. I'm prob just going to cut the image flip wire and leave he distance lines for now.
they are just standard replacement electronic flasher modules. They have an external ground wire but they are designed for LED bulbs or incandescent. I'll try to find the ones I got but they were a good brand but not that expensive.
This is the one I used. It's a 2 prong electronic flasher with external ground. Remember you need 2 of them, one for normal turn signal operation and the other for the hazards.
Got some more done! I have also made some changes or additions to the list ugh lol.
So so I used a android tablet instead of a radio in my car and used headphones to listen to music when I drove for periods of time when I wanted music. This worked fine however your limited to 1 person etc. I don't have any room in my radio pod area for an actual radio as it's filled with crap lol. Lots of wiring/relay banks for the automatic1 touch windows , my progressive methanol controller and lots of other little things for gauge configuring/datalogging plugs I pull out and my obd2 port for tune uploading and datsloggging. So without putting a radio how do I get music to play through the car speakers? I came up with a solution that should work better than a radio. I've already started the install and collecting parts. Going to leave the tablet as is and run a 3.5mm headphone jack to dual RCA preouts. That will plug into my ultra mini kicker 100.2 2 channel amp that's under the pass seat (it's the size of a dollar bill and only 2" high) I have run 10gauge power and 12v switched to the area. I'm waiting on 16gauge speaker wire which I will run to my old 4x6 pioneer dash speakers in parallel with some kicker 6x9 3ways I picked up which will get new 16gauge wiring as well. Everything will run off this tiny amp and I will get full range sound from my tablet. The amp is no slouch and puts out 25w rms x 2 @4ohms or 50w rms x 2 @ 2 ohms. Since my speakers are 4 ohm and wiring in parallel will put them at 2 ohm so 50w each bank will see. Since there are 2 speakers that's 25w rms each! That is like 10w more per speaker than most headunits put out. Tmrw I should be receiving my wire and 600/800hz bass blockers for the dash speakers to help with the power. So this thing should be plenty loud.
Ive also become obsessed with creating my own 3rd brake light. Hopes are it will be 30" long and use 2 strips of 5630 LEDs for running and braking. It's not going to be as easy as I thought. I ordered a premade cabinet light from Superbrightleds but it ended up being too long as I didn't have accurate measurements but it was on clearance and I'm going to use it as interior lighting on the roll bar. So more to come on all that.
What I have finished is nothing compared to what I have just taken apart lol but it's something.
Ive finished the backup and front camera install. Fully mounted and wired and tested. Works perfectly. Might have to adjust the cameras but they will work. I ordered the same one as the front that I might use on the rear backup instead of the bulky one I have. It won't have night vision but it also won't look as bad. I also ordered a real carbon fiber license plate bracket for the back plate to help hide the larger camera.
I trested everything thus far with the battery jumped in and adjusted my brake pedal switch to be more sensitive. The new rear lights with the reverse light delete doesn't look bad at all.
Picked up some coolant to mix my -10 mix for the summer/year.
07-28-2016, 08:09 PM
