Dakota W.

Update: After having a long day at work on Saturday, I arrived at home and was promptly greeted with a large box. Oh, and I got the oil pump shaft and collar on the oil pump....I'm never forgetting that DA** thing again. Oh right, the box.

$115 Summit racing headers...driver's side fitment is questionable. Cutting out the stock y-pipe tomorrow and seeing how the fitment is then, or if I have to notch a certain rusty, K-member.

Dakota W.

Update: So, the tpi manifold has a different angle than the heads I bought, even though pro comp told me they would work....So I'm re-using the manifold that came on the engine and picking up a carb tomorrow. All I need to do is route fuel lines, get an AFPR, new dizzy cap, and notch the k-member for header fitment.

Dakota W.

Update: Getting closer, just need headers that actually fit, and I need to run my fuel lines. After that, I just need to prime the engine, add coolant, get it in time, and start tuning the 1405.

Also, fast orange is amazing. I cleaned up my reservoirs.

Dakota W.

Oh, and I decided to change the rear end fluid. Wondering what I should use to clear most of the tar out of the rear, any suggestions?


New cover, old one was rusty. I don't like rusty.

1Aauto

Nice job on that cover!

Dakota W.

Thanks. I was originally going to respray my hood with that color, but I'm glad I didn't. When the light hits it, it has a slight green hue to it.

kmcn47

get a blow thru style carb and turbo your build! haha, as for the tar? brakekleen and cheap rags, then use either royal purple or pennzoil synchromesh

Dakota W.

I kept my 305 block for the twin turbo build. I'm going to restore a 72 camaro and put the current engine into it, since it's originally out of a 72. Then, forged twin turbo 305 for the '91. Then combocharged SBC for the '91. Also, I'm tempted just to fill it back up without cleaning the tar out since I'm going to have the pinion bearings, races, and seals replaced.

kmcn47

idk what i'll do with my 305, i know once i go ls I'm gonna ***** out to gm and never own an un LS car haha, next one i plan to get (After school) is an 05 GTO yellow jacket

Dakota W.

Considering you like the blazers, Kmcn, why not go with a 5.3L truck?

kmcn47

funny you ask that, ive had one for awhile haha oddly enough i don't have any pictures of it, sucks i had to delete them all to free up space on my camera for the recent trip to mooresville i took with friends

Dakota W.

Just a quick update, I'm currently waiting on fuel lines and fittings, as well as new rocker arms because the guide plates I had were too small; I also didn't feel comfortable making them any bigger than they were. So I ordered self-aligning rockers. I've just got to prime it, put it in time, and connect my fuel stuff. I'm also going junkyard fishing today for a 3piece spoiler. I don't like the high rise ferrari f40 wing. I really want a carbon fiber one though...After I get that put on and painted I'm going to tackle the hood. I should see all my vital engine parts next week, so I'll try and have it running at that time as well. I'm not looking forward to draining the tank to put 91 octane in though...

kmcn47

i've thought about doing my ducktail in black, maybe with the carbon wrap on the front of it, but i'd like to find one of the later ones with the tail light in it (idk actually if its a light or a reflector) but i swear i've seen ducktails with a red lens in them

Dakota W.

the brake light in the spoiler is from 87-90. Mine is going to be primer black, to match the hood. My rockers came in today, and I got most of the wiring done, as well as got the 3pc spoiler. pics.
Got the F40 wing off, going to do the sanding, painting and drilling tomorrow.

Also, just cause, I fixed my mom's subaru.

Dakota W.

The goal is to be driving myself to work in Christine by saturday, which leaves 3 days to have it running and running right. All that's left is to put it in time, throw the rocker arms on, add coolant, put the belt on and put the spark plugs and wires on. Going to try and get it started tomorrow. Hopefully my phone can upload to youtube

Dakota W.

Almost forgot about pictures of the 3piece.

hairysox33

iTrader: (4)

Sorry it's a bit late, but I've always used a small amount of brake cleaner.

Some might way "OHMAGERD DON'T DO THAT"

I've never had issues after cleaning the ring and pinion with it.

Dakota W.

I just went ahead and put some fluid in it. It needs a pinion seal and bearing job, but I don't have a press, nor the motivation to do it, so I'm just going to have a shop do it for a few hundred(hopefully).

So, I won't be running saturday because I somehow got the wrong rockers. I could've sworn I ordered 7/16 stud rockers, but apparently I didn't.

Dakota W.

Good new and bad news. Good news first. I ordered adjustable pushrod guideplates that will allow me to use the rockers I originally purchased. Bad news is, I lost my job, so I won't be able to drive it very much. If anybody has any leads in my area, I'd greatly appreciate it. I'm also holding off on the 3piece conversion until I have a job/more money. Still painting the hood though, I have duct tape stopping the rust.

Dakota W.

Couldn't sleep, so I thought I'd do some test fitting of my LED strip. OH! and my adjustable pushrod guideplates came in today, couldn't figure out why the adjustment was so small...My intake manifold bolts are too long, but only the middle 4...go figure...Anyway, pics.

Dakota W.

After finally fixing all my leaks, I'm ready to start it. But seeing as how I didn't get done today until after everyone was home from work, I'm going to wait until tomorrow. I live in an apartment complex where open headers are frowned upon. But I wanted to see if it would even turn over with a wimpy battery. The starter wiring is a bit loose, so I'll see to that first thing tomorrow, but with a bit of a struggle it managed a quick poof before I let off. The only way I can describe it, is like a pregnant woman's child kicking.

maks10

subscribed...nice work so far

kmcn47

any progress lately?

Dakota W.

Got it to run for about 5 seconds. Carb was flooding because the TPI fuel pump is still too much for the carb. Just got my fuel pressure gauge fitting, so I'll be able to see if the regulator is doing it's job properly. Picking up my Carb tomorrow because I broke the screw that holds the plate for the metering rod on. My camera decided it wanted to fill up, but here's a quick second of it running. It sounds wicked with open headers.

Dakota W.

Got it to run for 5 seconds again today, not sure why I can't get it to stay running, any tips would be appreciated. Some gas dripped onto the distributor and caught it on fire, so I've got a few wires to make and a lot of baking soda to clean out/off of everything. Car is for sale $4000. $5000 if I get it running.

kmcn47

well thats not what we all wanted to hear

Dakota W.

Tired of dealing with it. I swear to god, it's just one thing after another with this stupid car.

kmcn47

yepp............ have any of your tpi stuff left?

Dakota W.

All of it. I've been trying to sell it for a while so I could have cash to actually finish the car.

kmcn47

full plenum/harness/ecm? also is your electric pump still hooked up?

dr.wylde

ditch electric pump and fit mechanical? ( '72 block should have provision for mechanical)

Dakota W.

camashaft doesn't have the drive for mechanical. Dropping the tank sometime soon for a smaller pump, hoping that's the reason why it won't run for more than 5 seconds. I have a gauge hooked up to it, set at about 3.5-4 psi, but I can't see what happens to it when it's running from inside the car. I have an almost complete harness, Lost one connector to the fire, and I've also already cut the fuel injector connectors off (they were in the way), as well as the map sensor. I've got an aftermarket chip in the ecm, done by TunedPerformance, that I plan on using to control the fan. But I have all of the TPI wiring need with the manifold and up. I've also got the TPI dizzy and coil. Instead of me typing everything again. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...-tpi-sale.html
I'm still cleaning up all the fire extinguisher "stuff/sand". I need to take apart 4 rocker arms because they're too loaded up with sand to move, got all the others to move 99% freely. Going to try and clean out the tops of the heads tomorrow and put some valve covers on to remove it from the intake manifold. Not sure when I'm going to drop the tank, it's going to be difficult finding the motivation for that one...

kmcn47

goodluck and hope you can find that love of your car again and that you don't sell it

Dakota W.

Well, I've finally worked up a little motivation. I think today I'm going to work on cleaning out the valvetrain area and put the valve covers on and blow the fire extinguisher stuff out of the engine compartment. When that's done I'll put all the rockers back on hand tight. Still not sure if I want to tackle dropping the gas tank yet. Oh, and after moving stuff around, some of what I thought was casting sand got churned up, that was still in my radiator, but it looked different than how it was in the 305, it looked more like a bottle of....drum roll please....headgasket repair....Now I know why the car was $2000. The headgasket was fixed with the sh** it in a bottle, but with the way I drove it...yeah, didn't last long. Well, what's done is done. I think I'm going to get everything cleaned up and then try getting it running off a bottle of gas (while making sure NO gas drips ANYWHERE, NOWHERE, NO PLACE AT ALL). And I'll slip the valve covers on a bit so if I do have to douse some flames I don't have to clean sand out of everything...again. Learn from your mistakes people. Alright, rant/update over. OH! I cleaned all the rockers, one of them was a little difficult, but I have it soaking in some lucas oil, so maybe that will help free it up some more.

Dakota W.

I came to the realization that stock height valve covers don't fit over performance rocker arms...New valve covers from Summit are on the way! When I get those I'll be able to blow the rest of the crap out of the engine and attempt to start it. I'm pretty sure the carb is getting too much gas, because it just squirts out the top of it whenever it dies after being run for 5 seconds. I can't believe it's doing this with the bypass regulator on it SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR FI TO CARB CONVERSIONS. What a waste of $60. I'm thinking about just getting a fuel cell and putting it in the trunk so I don't have to drop the rear/tank/all that mess. But I don't have A/c and it gets hot here in the summer, so I'm not sure how I would keep the tank cool. Plus I don't have the $100 for a tank anyway. Now I'm rambling....Anybody dropped the tank before? I read the tech article, but I'm still a bit intimidated by the job. It's such a PITA to get the torque arm bar hooked back up....

naf

iTrader: (7)

Don't bother with the tank yet. Rule out the fuel pressure by disconnecting the line to the carb and attempting to idle it with the bowls full of fuel. You may have to fill them manually through the vent.

It should idle for a minute plus just on what's in the carb.

Coughing fuel out and not wanting to run is likely timing. A fresh start on it may require pulling the plugs and cleaning them. They can get quickly gunked up with fuel and soot when it's not wanting to run.

Skip the aftermarket chip for the fan. All it does is provide a ground to the relay lead. You can do that with a temp switch in the head or one of the adjustable controllers.

raynehr

Keep plugging away... Good luck....

Dakota W.

Oh no, it wants to run, it fires right up on a fresh start, after sitting for a while. It just dies after about 5 seconds and there is fuel coming out the top of the carb. The very first time I tried to start it, the starter cranked maybe twice and it fired right up (scared me a little bit too, wasn't expecting it to fire right up). The chip is already in the computer, I was expecting to be able to use my TPI stuff, but I can't, which is why I've got a carb on it, I just need the ecm to handle the fans so I don't have to wire them up differently. I'm pretty sure it's just getting way too much fuel and flooding, so I'm going to try and get it to run off of a bottle of gas to determine that for sure.

Dakota W.

Got my new valve covers test fitted. The alternator bolt for the positive wire is too long and interferes with the driver side, so I need to trim that down a bit, but other than that, no foreseeable issues. Also, lucas gear oil for our differentials works GREAT for unlocking seized rocker arms that were filled with fire extinguisher sand.

Dakota W.

Decided to paint my hood today.
It was going well, but I ran out of paint so I took a pic of my progress and ran to the store for another can. This was the in-progress pic.
About 5 minutes after I get back, this happens.
Yep! Bright and sunshiny day turned into rain in 5 minutes.

jacobd32

Just a couple of things I want to tell you: first a better idea is to smother fires, keep an old towel or something handy any time your working on a carbed motor just make sure it isn't covered in ya know gas and what not lost my hoist tree cause of that. Next with gas spewing shooting out of the carb it is usually timing, play with the distributor a little and see what happens. Not running for more then a few seconds makes it hard though. I had that happen to an old truck I usto have ended up being the Cam hopefully not in your case though. good luck im subscribing and hope to see that you don't give up and sell Gen 3s always are a pain that's part of the reason they are loved so much.

jacobd32

Just a couple of things I want to tell you: first a better idea is to smother fires, keep an old towel or something handy any time your working on a carbed motor just make sure it isn't covered in ya know gas and what not lost my hoist tree cause of that. Next with gas spewing shooting out of the carb it is usually timing, play with the distributor a little and see what happens. Not running for more then a few seconds makes it hard though. I had that happen to an old truck I usto have ended up being the Cam hopefully not in your case though. good luck im subscribing and hope to see that you don't give up and sell Gen 3s always are a pain that's part of the reason they are loved so much.

Dakota W.

Got it to run for a few seconds at 3k rpm...if my tach is reading correctly. I had to leave my foot on the pedal and bit and when I left off even slightly it dropped rpms and died. I pulled the plugs and they are completely black, and were a bit wet. After looking at the edelbrock owner's manual I determined the metering rod springs the carb has in it are not the ones the carb is supposed to come with. So I ordered some springs and I'm going to try those to see if I can't get it to run a little leaner. I suspect with the cam that's in there there isn't going to be much vacuum, so the metering rod is just staying wide open because the spring that's in there is the strongest one at 8"hg of vacuum. Also, timing is pretty darn close.

Dakota W.

Kind of a big update today. I'll let the video do the talking.

Dakota W.

So, I'm beginning to think the root of all my problems is the regulator I got. I'm going to get a new regulator when I'm not broke and be back on the road(hopefully). At this point, that's all that's stopping me. I can fill up the bowls in the carb, but it doesn't run for very long just on that, and it doesn't like being fed via plastic bottle.

Dakota W.

So, she runs and runs long enough to warm up. The problem I ran into just now is that I have no gears. I can shift into any gear when it's off, and start it up. However, I can't get into any gears while it's running, the engine starts to bog down a little bit if I try to push it a little harder into any gear, except reverse...it just grinds...like always....stupid reverse...Anyway, I also noticed that the snout of my driveshaft, where it goes into the transmission, has a bit of the clean(er) part showing, leading me to believe the transmission might be too far forward? I re-used my clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing; the only thing new is the flywheel, which is the same size and style as the 1 piece rear main seal flywheel, except it's for 2piece rear main seals. Any thoughts?

Dakota W.

It was a real pain to get the torque arm bar back on with the poly mount, and it looks like the bar is pushing into the bushing fairly hard, could this be pushing the transmission forward enough to throw the geometry off?

naf

iTrader: (7)

That is normal. The driveshaft will move in and out slightly as the rear end moves up/down. Your transmission is not being 'pushed' forward.

excessiveego

your throwout bearing is installed improperly. That is the cause of the issue you are describing 99.99% of the time

Dakota W.

The throwout bearing is installed properly, this isn't my first time messing with them lol. I'm leaning more towards the clutch slave cylinder being bad.