When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This is my first post so I will try and make the intro short as possible. I have always been reading post and have gotten much info from the site so want to let others know my story if it matters.
To understand I have to give some history(sorry). I have been a third gen owner for 15 yrs. I had a 82 firebird from 15 until just recently. It was always primer grey and never had creature comforts as I was a broke high school then college kid. So all the money I did spend went to go fast parts(of course). It was a $100 car that was a V6. I saved money for a crate 350 and th350. Long story short I had it for 14 years and it got away. Body was rusting away as I let it set through college and for years after as I began a family. My loving wife was always after me to get rid of the car, but I never would. We have been together for 14 years married for 6 (picked her up in a primer firebird with open headers, she's a keeper) So here's what happened.
I had a Honda CBR that I bought out of college. We already have one child who is almost 3. I decided to sell the bike as it cannot fit 3. I was then bummed so as I look at my poor third gen realizing that its to far gone for my current situation I searched for a new body. The hunt lead me to an all original running driving 1989 Camaro RS. I picked it up for $1200 with only minor surface rust in usual areas.
So the plot is now set. I have a new car and as the title says now a baby on the way. I took the drivetrain and everything that I had money in off the Firebird as the supporting wife was now getting unsupportive quickly as I had 2 "toys" a work car and a truck. So I got the motor out and checked over everything. I knew it would need to be bored as it had set for years.
Now keep in mind that that going forward I am on a budget (newborn on the way, saving for new house) and have no garage and I am just trying to get the Camaro to a state that it will not fall apart and will be a fun ride until we build a place in the next 3 years. Then the real restomod will begin.
Some pics of the car as I got it. Factory paperwork was in it! Interior is in good shape. Dash pad is cracked of course other than that perfect really. Everything on the car works which was amazing to me. Spare tire, jack, etc. looked untouched. Hard to believe though as that car has 120k on the clock. Had the factory smog stuff, cat, and even factory exhaust still on the car.
I know some may burn me at the stake for dismantling an original, but hey its an RS and not a rare numbered car. This fit exactly what I wanted to start with:
Original as possible (I got lucky)
Hard top
Camaro (I wanted a Camaro over the Firebird but couldn't get it)
I am currently still working on the car as of today. I am posting in chronological order as to what has happened up until today as this began in May of this year and I have started to go back together. I will continue posting as I move forward til it gets on the road if there is an interest in the build.
Here is the engine going to the machine shop. Here some specs on the motor and some of the plans. Its a gen 1, 2 piece rear main seal, Cast# 3970010 high nickel block out of a 79 Z28 Camaro. 2 bolt main. It is going to be given a bath, bored, honed, magnafluxed, new cam bearings, new freeze plugs, line honed with ARP main bolts, another bath,
Crank checked for straight, magnafluxed, polished, rods resized with ARP studs, and pistions installed on rods.
While the was out to the shop I got the patient into position. I widened my drive for the car because I knew it was going to be a few months. I scored a full set of factory 89' IROC wheels on craigslist. I couldn't pass them up.
The car had some surface rust on the outside pass fender and bottom behind tire. Nothing major just wanted to address it before it spread or got worse. I took it and surrounding area down to the bare metal and self etching primer over it. Just a temp solution I know but whatever slows it until I get to body work down the road.
In the mean time I was doing research on the engine build. I wanted to ensure that everything worked together from the engine to the drivetrain. Anyone can build an engine, but making it all work together is where the art comes in. Simply putting a cam and a big carb on does not make a truly awesome street machine (I learned the hard way). So I wanted to start with a cam decision then everything else can be built around that. I chose Comp Cams 12-246-3 cam. It is a perfect cam for street performance. Low end torq and good over all streetable performance. Talking with the Comp techs it sets up the other critical comments to make it all work. The cam wants a 2300-2800 Stall, 600-700 cfm, 3.55-4.11 rear gearing.
The cam was picked and wanted to get a set heads that complemented the low end torque of the cam. I almost bought the edelbrock performer RPM aluminums for price and I already have and am running that intake. As I did more research I backed out at the last minute, because for a little more I can get these. AFR 65cc full CNC ported alumninums. I contacted the techs at AFR and chose the 180cc intake runner as they said it would pair great with the cam. The 180cc is a lower volume high velocity torque machine. So after a 5 week wait they arrived made to order with hydraulic flat tappet valves spring retro fit(AFR ships all heads with roller cam springs, you must request a swap or could damage your cam) and stainless valves. The wait was worth it. The workmanship is awesome.
I was on a path with the engine and the car wasn't going to take itself apart so I found time between work, wife, and the boy to get more going. My boy is only 3 but loves to help dad. Mom doesn't like to come home from work with 2 dirty guys but its all fun.
Engine came back from machine shop. I took some time and took all the flashing out and tapered the lifter area for oil. I washed and washed and washed some more to get it all clean. Then coated it in oil and bagged it until I get back on it.
Got around to priming and painting the block. There is only one color a gen 1 small block Chevy should be IMO and that's Chevy Orange. I put oil on the freeze plugs so I could go back and wipe the paint off to give the engine a little detail.
So this is also a reason I am sharing my build with the thirdgen.org community. This site is great at finding info for these cars I was able to decipher code on the trans to ensure it was original to the car.
Turns out it is and I am glad because 89 and up 700r4s are better built than there earlier counter parts.
Now for some attention to the transmission. After exhaustive research on this site and others, as well as calling multiple transmission companies I have formed a plan that I think will fit my goal for the car nicely. I am going to rebuild this transmission myself. Never have done a trans before but I am 100% I can do it. Slow and steady wins the race in this instance
for me. So here is what I ended up with:
ALTO RED HP Rebuild kit. (waited almost 2m for this, I originally got TCI kit but did not care for it so returned it)
Kevlar Band
TRANSGO Reprogramming kit shift kit
TRANSGO "Unbreakable pump rings
TRANSGO 472 boost valve (Transgo tech said 500 was over kill for the street)
TRANSGO new separator plate
TRANSGO Billet 2nd gear servo (I have TCI 2nd gear Billet also but Transgo says its not compatible with their shift kit. If anyone is interested let me know).
B&M Valve (Won't down shift in 4th constantly)
TCI 4th gear Billet Servo
TCI Beast Sunshell
Gearwrench compressor tool.
I think I can make the other tools needed
Soon to come is
Aluminum deep fined pan
2600 Stall
At this point it was to easy to just take more apart. I struggled hard at this point to strike a balance between what can be done now and what should wait until next time. Lets just say I get carried away. K member and all came out.
I love threads like this. Makes me jealous. haha. I'm following this so keep it up!
It will keep coming. I know the feeling. Seeing the great cars others have built. I will still not get this to the point that I envision but hopefully will hold me over for a few years. I've waited 10 long years to be able to even do this and the window is small.
Ended up bring everything home powder coated. A local shop gave me a deal I couldn't pass on. I stayed true to the colors I intended to paint everything just now powder coated. It was a great decision. It all came out awesome and better than I could have painted it. Now more durable.
Here's a better pic of the K member and the headers. I chose Light Machine Grey for the big parts. Black for some brackets and safety red for the springs and sway bar.
They also talked me into coating my Hooker headers I had. I was/am leery of powder coated headers as I have read mixed results. They said it was a high temp powder and was not going to be an issue or they would fix it. So I went for it. Still cheaper than buying new and I had them on the other car so worth a shot.
Nice!! Make sure that block stays good and oily. Even tho its in a bag, condensation is a bioch. I think its great you are building your tran. That is the only thing I didnt build when I did my car. I have been thinking about trying one tho. Keep up the good work!!
I went back to give the engine some attention. I put the crank in. I plastigauged with the new bearings one final time and it all came in spec. Which the machine shop checked everything but I am noting all measurements on a spreadsheet for me. Then set the crank in for the final time.
Some details on the engine:
.060 over 350 sbc.
Crank turned and polished .010 under.
Pistons are KB Hypereutectic coated skirt.
Rings are file fit Moly
Rods are stock with ARP bolts (I don't know how old originals were).
Cam is Comp Cams XE274H hydraulic flat tappet
AFR Aluminum full CNC port 180cc intake runner
Comp Magnum 1.52 roller rockers
Comp Magnum Double Roller timing chain
Comp Magnum Pushrods
Edelbrock performer RPM dual plane intake
1" spacer plate(will run with and without to see how it does)
Full MSD Ignition system
670 Holley Street Avenger
Should be 400+ at the flywheel with the heads and cam combo. I am going to run a multi layer SS head gasket. Have yet to order because I have to measure how far in the hole I am. I am thinking it will be about a .027 gasket. I am shooting for 10:1 compression.
Nice!! Make sure that block stays good and oily. Even tho its in a bag, condensation is a bioch. I think its great you are building your tran. That is the only thing I didnt build when I did my car. I have been thinking about trying one tho. Keep up the good work!!
-Dan
Thanks! I do my best to keep any moisture out. I keep 5lbs of desiccant I the bag with it and check it all the time.
After an hour or so I finally separated the wiring harness down to what I wanted to keep. Only thing left going back in the car is for the lights and the power circuit. The pic is all the wiring that is being eliminated. I will be using the electric fuel pump and electric fans, but I have drawn up my own circuits that I am going to wire neatly. I am going to use a oil pressure switch tied in parallel with the momentary switch on the ignition to pull in a relay to run the fuel pump. This way if it was ever rolled or something I hopefully won't burn up in a fire cause the fuel pump keeps running. I read on some places where guys just run a 12v to a toggle, well that will work until your on the lid throwing sparks with a flame thrower running. (sorry for the rant just seems dumb).
Got all the rings file fit. I bought the bench mounted filer from summit for like $60 I think. I worked for what I needed. I fit each one to its own cylinder and leave them in some they won't get mixed up. I will wait until after I get the rear and trans is done to move any farther on the engine. I have read some horror stories of engines being built then set and the cam break in lube dripping off and toasting the cam. I am also going do the 20 min break in and initial carb tuning on a stand. this way if there is any issues, leaking, etc. they can be addressed outside of the car.
Scored a rear disc axel for $100 on craigslist. Checked numbers when I got there and says 6HS. Couldn't find it anywhere in the book I brought. Guy said it was out of an 84 Z/28. But for 100 buck couldn't pass on it. I don't much care for the rear conversion kits. This was the only way for me and just happened to get lucky.
Rear end I found out is a Gov-Lock diff. and is from an 84. Should have had 3.73s but had been changed to a 3.42. Not a big deal as I am going to put all new bearings, seals, and ring and pinion anyway. I am also going to put a AL cover with bearing girdle. I know the these are not the strongest differentials, but I don't plan on beating this car to death or drag it. So should be fine until I get to the next build.
Pics aren't that great but shows some of the rusty areas. I chose to do things the long way as I am on a budget. So I wire wheeled the areas and wet sanded the rest of the engine bay.
I wiped the whole area down with mineral spirits after I washed and dried it. I then used a rust inhibiting primer on the areas and surrounding areas that had rust. Didn't turn out to bad. I would like to do more but under time and budget constraints I just want to keep the car in good condition.
Nice progress!
Question, Did you look and make sure there is no crack where the steering gear bolts? You prob would have seen in but sometimes they are just starting and very small.
Nice progress!
Question, Did you look and make sure there is no crack where the steering gear bolts? You prob would have seen in but sometimes they are just starting and very small.
Again, nice work!
I did check it out. As of now i didn't see anything. I do have a wonder bar now.
Here is what I decided to do with the engine bay. I black enamel painted the wheel wells and trans tunnel. I did the bay in red filler primer then matte clear enamel coat. This way the primer won't pick up dirt and stuff. So now when I decide to paint it I can just knock the clear off to the primer. It turned out pretty good. I wanted flat look so the gloss engine with aluminum heads and the powder coat stuff contrast nicely.
Here is a pic after I got the spring and a arm back in. This was very tricky and took a few times without the weight of the engine to compress the spring. I made a spring compressor that worked by modifying the store bought one. I used the upper springs and the rod but made a steel plate to go under the a arm hole. Then compressed the spring to the a arm then installed it. I used a safety strap incase it slipped off.
09-15-2015, 10:13 AM
