chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

I have recently purchased a 1985 Z28 with the LG4 305 motor. This is my third, 3rd gen camaro. I have a 92 rs, and now I have a 91 rs parts car and the 85.

I was tagged on this car on facebook by my uncle. Went to take a look, and I was amazed. The floors on the cars around here (Massachusetts) are usually gone. Or need a lot of work.

But this car, is just about perfect. It is rot free. And has minimal rust. Perfect starting point.

This will be my build thread. I will try and keep good records and photos of what I do. I know I like reading all of your threads, so why not do the same!

Here's the info:

1985 Camaro z28
LG4 305 Carbourated v8
700r4 transmission
57,xxx miles on the title and odometer
No interior. Just the seats, which are the standard gray vinyl. I don't care for it.
Came with the build sheet which says it has power everything. Windows, locks, hatch release, and even mirrors.

It needs a set of doors. The owner took them for his own project. the 91 RS I have has a good passenger door, but the driver dor needs help. I may try to fix it, but we will see.

Anyway, I know you'd all rather see pics. So here they are:















I will be moving it indoors hopefully by the end of the month. I do not want it outside like it is.

First thing I want to do is tackle what rust there is. What would you all recommend for the floor, both the underside and interior such as an undercoating?

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

1988CamaroSC

iTrader: (2)

por 15 for the floor pans in an out, honestly though yours are so clean from the pics anyway you could probably get away with sanding, priming and 3m professional underseal. nice car, breaks my heart that someone tore up a clean 57k mile car....glad your saving it.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

I've heard that POR15 really only works on rusted surfaces. Otherwise it doesn't grab on too well. I'll look into that undercoating you mentioned.

Believe me, the car is as clean as it looks. The pics have dust and dirt and all kinds of things everywhere. I haven't cleaned it out yet.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

What you should put on the inside floors and on the outside bottom floor pan is really a personal choice. If it will be a show car with light cruising or track or strip you can easily get away with a surface prep then epoxy primer then a single stage urethane. Stray away from spray paint because any fluid from a car with the least amount of solvent will dissolve it. If it's a daily driver or gets driven a lot in warm weather Undercoat it. Bedliner seems to get the best reviews or a 2 part undercoating. For the interior if it's a warm weather car just use undercoating or bed liner. Sound proofing is a waste of time if you're driving with windows down and tops off. You hear it anyway. I'm doing my underside in single stage urethane, wheel wells in undercoating and interior in brush on bed liner. I live in the desert and it will be for show and autocross.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

Wow, a super solid place to start.

It would be nice if you find some nice doors, to see if the previous owner would consider swapping with you, and getting the original doors back. Fewer color change and VIN decal hassles.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

That is a good idea. I might just do that, if I find a good set.


I think I will just clean off the rusty areas of the floor with a wirebrush, scuff the whole thing and roll on a bedliner of some sort.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

So, I wanted to swap the seats and what not form my 91 into the 85. Thing is that the rear seat is a split back. The 85 is not. I COULD swap over the bracket somehow, but I don't want to. Any it would bother me that I changed it. I'm picky about certain things.

Anyway, since I am always on the lookout for parts and things, I will need to find whatever color carpet and plastics are correct for these seats and door panels.

Could anybody tell me what color would have come with these seats? I want to just assume grey, but you never know.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Well I did a little work to the camaro today. Not too much, because I'm waiting to move it into the building seen in some of the pics.

I swapped the hood hinges from the 91. Kinda sucked by myself, but I got it done.

I went through all the parts I had in the 91 to see what I could use in the 85. Made myself a list for the next time I visit the salvage yard. And I cleaned it up a little bit. Like I said, nothing exciting.

Citation X

Ya too bad the PO took apart such a solid car. Glad your gonna save it. Keeps the updates coming and good luck.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Well I finally got the z moved into the shop! Soon I'll be able to start working on her.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

SO, I started tearing into the z. I plan on getting it down to a bare shell, if not as close as I can to it. Here are some pics of the progress.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Well here's an update. Engine and transmission are ready to pull. Just waiting to borrow or buy an engine hoist. Got quite a bit done over the past few days.









I also started sandblasting parts to get them repainted.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

I would not disturb the paint on your floors. It looks great to me. Also, undercoatings arnt as nice as ppl think. They and sound deadening mats can trap water in between and rot it out with out you knowing.

Also, Watch where and how you store your plastics. They easily deform and will be a pain in the butt to straighten out. I made a jig to hold it in its somewhat shape..

I cant believe someone would gut a car like that. Your going to want to keep every screw you find... Glad you are bringing her back to life!!!

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

I don't have many options to hang my plastics. So I guess it will do for now. Maybe I will try to keep the floors as they are. But I'll wanna do the underside. I just need to somehow remove those areas where the carpet pads are glued down.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Well I got a decent amount done the last 2 days. Just about done with the tear down, and soon I can start working on the rebuild. I stripped all of the seam sealer on the floor pan, as some chunks were falling off anyway. I also scraped off the pads glued over the drain plugs. I plan on welding those closed. I found ONE hole rotted through on the entire car. Not too bad. Sheer chance I found it, as I wasn't going to re do the seam sealer.

Also finally got the motor and transmission pulled. Pulled the rear end and the tank. I just have the hatch and the fuel and brake lines running down the car. Then I will tackle the hole.

Here are those pics everyone likes!

chevydrvr

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chevydrvr

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Well I got her just about 100% apart. Hatch is ready to come off as soon as I have someone to help me. Everything else is off the body minus the pieces that hold the weatherstripping on the pillars. I'm thinking I will remove the windshield too. Any tips?

I started cutting out the ONLY bad section in the car.




Keep in mind, this is my first time doing most of this. I've ripped apart my first car (92 rs) several times, but never this far. And I have never fixed anything like this hole before. But my cousin (working on all of the cars in the garage pic above) knows what he's doing. He's helping me with what I don't know.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Well I really haven't gotten much done lately. My daily driver has been in the shop for a while, so it's been tough getting to the camaro. I got the motor and tranny apart, and I bought myself a stand. Just gotta mount it up and start taking it apart.

tecboy

I feel Ya brother! Im not going to go as far as you this time around on my z28. I am in the middle of doing exactly what your doing with my 63 nova. Stripped to bare metal. Cutting out rust and repairing with sheet metal and welding. Glad you don't have much of it. Finding the time is the hardest thing. Good luck

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

I know I haven't posted about "Lucy" in a while. Yup, that's her name! I lost motivation for a little while. It happens. But I've been getting back into her! I finished welding all the drain holes last night. I just pulled out the factory plugs, cut a piece the same shape and welded it in! The only holes I didn't do were the ones under the rear seats. They seemed fine, and I didn't want to mess with them. Before I did that I patched that one rot hole I found! My welding skills aren't the best, but it works! Next thing I want to do is find some seam sealer, re-do the seams, and then cover the floorpan with either bedliner, or undercoating. I was thinking of just rolling on a bedliner and calling it a day, but I may spray something on. What would you guys prefer?

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

tecboy

Rhino Liner


I used Rhino Liner after welding/repairing the floorboard issues. 2 coats worked very well and then I glued sound/heat barrier down, then carpeting.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Looks good! Ill keep that stuff in mind! You all think it's worth putting the sound deadener down? Or something like it?

gsmarcano

Great start, gotta see how this goes!

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

SO i ended up just using some paint as the floor is in really good shape. It cape out pretty good! Remember I am doing all of this as "cheap" as possible. Also painted the engine bay.






Would anybody be able to tell me which bolts go where on the a/c heater housing both the interior side and engine bay side? I was going to try to reinstall in inside, but can't seem to remember which bolts go from the outside in or vice-versa. Also, is there an electrical harness or something that goes through the firewall just to the bottom left of the eater box inside the car??

tecboy

I would say get the service guide for your year and it shows all the diagrams and part #'s for putting it back together. I think they sell a dvd with the same info for like 10 bucks. I have done a few complete restores down to bare metal like you are doing and its difficult to remember where everything goes back, unless you either put the bolts back as you took them apart or have a diagram that shows you where things go. doing.

Good Luck

tec

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

I might actually have the service manual on my computer. I'll have to take a look at it!


Next i want to get the underside stripped and ready to finish up. Then get the front crossmember painted and reinstalled.

Any suggestions for stripping the underside?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

What did you do with the old steering wheel? I'm looking for that one.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

From the 85? I still have it. But I need it. Unless you're talking about the wheel from the 91. I have that too.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The 85 wheel. Looking for one to refinish. What are you doing with it, looks like you put a grant wheel on?

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

OH that's not my car.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

So I got a free LT1 motor, and was wondering....could I use the lt1 intake and heads on my lg4 block?? Any other parts I could use?? The free motor didn't come with pistons, connecting rods, or the crankshaft. My LG4 is complete though.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

You can, but for the cost and effort it's just not worth it. Converted LT1 intakes were all the rage when mini rams and super rams were around a grand. Reported problems with the distributor hole you had to make and the remote mount thermostat you needed to use. The heads also require modifications. For the same amount you could probably machine a used rotating assembly.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

I won't bother then. Ill just freshen up the ol' LG4. Best method for getting the heads and block looking like new without bringing it somewhere???

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I personally don't take chances with engine work. If I can't accurately measure it I send it to a machine shop to check and machine if needed. You can measure the journals and bores but flat surfaces and block cleaning I always send em off. Usually milling it true and cleaning is cheap. If the bores are within spec you can hand hone. Same with the crank, if it's within spec you can scuff the journals(wrap sandpaper around the journal then wrap with string and pull the string back and fourth) and go.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Oh no I didn't mean do any machining I meant just get the crap off to paint it. I'm just replacing gaskets.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Klean strip sells Aircraft paint remover in the blueish quart container if you want to remove some paint. Diesel, Kerosene, gasoline or Accetone works for any crud like baked oil and is far cheaper than buying some wonder cleaner from the parts store. Then go over the outside (except gasket surfaces)with a wire wheel but tape off any holes too. then go over the block with a MAP gas torch to burn anything off. spray and wipe with rubbing alcohol and then spray in a high temp exhaust paint with a ceramic. That's exactly what I do and the paint stays on great and looks good.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Awesome I'll give that a try!

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Also, if there was rust that pitted the block you'll have to use a flap disc on a grinder and/or use some phosphoric acid on it to remove it before the paint. Don't fiddle around with some brand X miracle rust spray, just go to a hardware store and get the phosphoric acid.

PAFORM350

nice work man. Always some self satisfaction doing things one self,

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!! I'd like to be a lot further along but...it is what it is. I have a tendency to get too **** about certain things and it ends up taking me forever.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Well I finished the engine bay and crossmember and gotit reinstalled. It feels so good to finally have something go BACK in.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Well I haven't been working on Lucy for a while now, but im' getting back into it. I've got the rear end back in so the body is sitting on the springs. I want to get the front suspension back together next but I need a find a press for the control arm bushings. I started working on the body. Should be fairly simple as there aren't many spots that need work. Starting with the passenger fender and fixing a dent it has.







Unrelated question. I've read everywhere that you can use 4th gen rear disk brakes on a third gen with drums. You have to cut the flange square and bolt it on pretty much. Now, I've also read that his only works with 98-02 ls1 brakes. Looking at the earlier 4th gens at the junk yard, the set up looks like it should just bolt on to my axle, minus drilling some holes and cutting the flange. I think i'm just going to try it. My biggest concern is the set up fitting my wheels. What can I measure to figure this out? Or I could always just try the setup and sell it if it doesn't work.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

I know I haven't been posting my progress, I haven't been able to work on it much, and when I do, I just work.

Just a couple of questions, where were the emissions stickers located? On the hood? If so, could anybody snap a quick pic?

Also, did my camaro come with a diverter valve for the heater? Or was is straight form the engine to the heater and to the pump? I know later on they did, but did an 1985 lg4 have one?