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So I just got a 1987 Iroc 305 TPI 5 speed ttops today. It's pretty rough, and it is still not guaranteed I am going to get this driveable. It is missing the transmission, front bumper, hood, taillights, and power window switches(which I just picked up 2). As far as I can tell right now, it isn't missing anything else. The flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, and bellhousing are still all there, which is nice because the bell housing on these things new is over $500 and it's hard to find a used one. I bought a new flywheel for it assuming it didn't have it just in case (it was almost sitting on the ground with the small wheels and tires the guy had on it and with them being flat). Once we got it on the trailer I noticed it had all of that so that is kind of a relief. I might still use this flywheel anyways because it is a brand new one.
It has a 305 TPI, not sure on the mileage. It has been sitting for a few years, and the title is a clean title but box C. That doesn't really bother me though, my 88 I bought in February is also a box C. The TPI is complete, it even has the smog pump stuff although it appears to have been bypassed. A lot of these camaros have them bypassed out here in Az because of how lax our emissions are.
It only has some damage to the front bumper brace but that doesn't matter that much, and the fenders are both bad and need to be replaced but there are several third gens in junkyards right now that have intact fenders. There is also a large spot of bondo that somebody did that probably didn't know what they were doing, and it looks like hell that I will have to fix. Otherwise, there isn't even a tiny dent anywhere I can see, at least not yet, anywhere else. Thankfully I still had a full set of wheels and tires that were on the 88 camaro when I bought it that I didn't get rid of yet, so I threw those on here.
I am super excited that it has posi. I found the tag that says its spin resistant. So i jacked it up and spun the driver rear wheel and the passenger one spun with it in sync and didn't seem to spin a different speed or wobbly or any indication that the posi was worn. So I am pretty happy that it has posi, and that it isn't worn out yet. I couldn't find the identifier for what rear end is in this, but it is a disc rear end as well. Update: I did discover the rpo tag in the center console and it lists "G80" and "G92" so I have the G92 rear end. From what I gathered on here, the G92 coupled with manual equipped cars has 3.45 gears and the autos got 3.23 gears.
My buddy has a spare transmission so I can just use that for awhile, assuming I get this thing running. We are going to attempt that this weekend if we don't run into any big surprises like say somebody decided to remove the heads and then put it back together. It isn't missing anything that I can visually see that would prevent it from running, so assuming we don't find something missing, as long as everything seems to be operable, we are going to flush the motor really well. If we get lucky and get it turned over, I don't plan to run it very long. Just trying to see if it will turn over. If it does, we will move on with the restoration. Probably start with pulling the motor, so I can start buying all the new seals, and cleaning/painting everything I want/need to. I am going to hold off on listing my detailed plan of attack for now, because I have to wait to see if this motor will even turn over. Im hoping it will with just flushing the motor really well, and the flywheel is still installed so it should be good to start.
Anyways, without further ado, here is this big beautiful b****
Last edited by AmpleUnicorn88; 01-01-2016 at 12:58 PM.
I'll definitely be watching this thread. It looks like the windows were left down, have you looked under the carpet yet?
The passenger side window was, and it looked like it was still in tact and in the passenger side door. Hopefully when I get power applied the switches I bought will work and it will roll up. The driver side glass is immaculate with not a single scratch that I could see so I'm hoping the passenger one is the same story.
I haven't ripped up the carpet yet. This is an AZ car, and finding rust under the floorboards is not very common here. Doesn't mean it won't be there, however I am not too concerned about it considering the condition of the undercarriage. It's nicer than my 88 is though. the interior is a little nicer than my 88 was when I bought it also so once I blow the dust off the interior and wipe it all down, it will probably be tollerable until I get to replacing the carpet. All the interior panels are there and in perfect shape, but I will be repainting them. I'm not a fan of the tan interior so I will probably be going black. I do like the Iroc style seats however, so if any of the seats are save able, which it looks like the back seat will be, I will clean them and re dye them and hope it turns out well. I saw another guy re dye his iroc seats and they looked awesome.
Gotcha. If the undercarriage looks solid it's probably fine. I'm most likely gonna paint my tan panels black as well. Man if you lived closer i could really hook you up with some parts you are missing. lol
How much does something like that sell for out by you?
I paid $600 for this beauty. But, it appears that is a good deal for the options this car has and it being an iroc and has a lot of usable parts still. Right now, somebody is selling a base 89 camaro without a motor or transmission for the same amount here. I have frequently seen these third gens come up in this area for a few hundred bucks that don't run, but they have all had no title. I'm not really into that whole game because the things that could happen aren't worth the headache down the road. I almost bought an 86 iroc a few months back that some guy was selling for $300 that ran but rough, but he didn't have the title for it. I would have been there the second I saw the ad if he had the title. The story he gave me made me a little nervous so I decided to pass on it. This guy had a clean AZ title on it, and it has minimal damage, doesn't even need to be repaired because it will be hidden when I'm done.
Gotcha. If the undercarriage looks solid it's probably fine. I'm most likely gonna paint my tan panels black as well. Man if you lived closer i could really hook you up with some parts you are missing. lol
Well maybe I will need something that doesn't cost much to ship or I want it bad enough I would be willing to pay shipping. Time will tell.
Update: I just found the RPO tag in the center console and it is still clean and legible. I discovered that is has the G92 rear end, and from further researching on here, in the maunal equipped cars, which mine was, that means it has 3.45 gears, and the autos got 3.23 gears. I am sort of torn because i am wanting this as a daily driver when I get done, not necessarily a race car, so I want good gas mileage. I got average 25 mpg with my 88 base 305 TBI 5 speed with open 3.08 and got as high as just over 27 on one tank before. Which is insane to me. With 3.45's, I don't see that happening. If i can still pull off 20 mpg though using this rear end, I will be happy.
These are surprisingly in good shape. Not torn or stained and the foam is still soft underneath. I'm planning to clean these then redye them black. This is my favorite interior pattern on seats and unfortunately I read that these were only put in 87 Irocs.
Passenger side seat. Looks a little dirty. It'll buff out
Yeah a lot of people do on here. Nobody is ever selling them too which is probably why the rare occasion one pops up, a person can name almost any price. I believe from what I researched the 3.45 gear ratio was only in the manuals and the autos got 3.23 and manuals were even more uncommon.
My 88 (auto car) has 3.27's. This car was the first I'd seen with a 9 bolt. Every one I'd ever been under before was a 10 bolt. As long as the rear performs as it should, I'm keeping the 3.27's.
My 88 (auto car) has 3.27's. This car was the first I'd seen with a 9 bolt. Every one I'd ever been under before was a 10 bolt. As long as the rear performs as it should, I'm keeping the 3.27's.
Well since I have been researching a lot the last 2 days, from what I have researched you also have the G92 rear end. I thought it was 3.23 but the 9 bolt FAQ I have pulled up lists the G92 came with 3.45 gears in manuals and 3.27 with the automatics.
9 boots were only used for 3 years in the third gens; 1987-1989. The years before and after were 10 bolts. Dana44's were used from factory on recalled rear ends I read on here also.
87-88 9 bolts that were disc had the older delco moraine that people dislike, and 89 9 bolts with disc had the aluminum PBR calipers.
According to info I have read on here and other sources people swear by the strength of the 9 bolts. They say they are better than the 10 bolts. The biggest drawback to them is when they break, parts are scarce.
Well since I have been researching a lot the last 2 days, from what I have researched you also have the G92 rear end. I thought it was 3.23 but the 9 bolt FAQ I have pulled up lists the G92 came with 3.45 gears in manuals and 3.27 with the automatics.
9 boots were only used for 3 years in the third gens; 1987-1989. The years before and after were 10 bolts. Dana44's were used from factory on recalled rear ends I read on here also.
87-88 9 bolts that were disc had the older delco moraine that people dislike, and 89 9 bolts with disc had the aluminum PBR calipers.
According to info I have read on here and other sources people swear by the strength of the 9 bolts. They say they are better than the 10 bolts. The biggest drawback to them is when they break, parts are scarce.
Yep i do have the g92 rear, but from what I've read it was only available in irocs and gta's. My car is just an 88 sc. I guess it could have been swapped in from and iroc/gta at some point.
As for the strength of the 9 bolt, I've read they're stronger than the 10 as well but I've also talked to a very respectable auto trans builder who said that the 10 bolt was actually stronger. Basically said the 9 bolt being stronger was kind of a myth. Idk, I just hope mine is in good shape.
So tried to crank the motor by hand yesterday. Nope. It won't budge. The last plug we pulled out made a hissing noise and the tip of it was wet so I smelled it and it had a coolant odor. So it's possible it had a slight head gasket leak before it was parked which would explain why it was not driven. There was no water in the oil at the time of us draining it and it looked super clean. Not sure how much coolant would have gotten into the oil pan if it was hitting one of the plugs though so maybe it evaporated somehow or started gelling. Half the radiator lines I removed had half of the diameter inside covered in rusty gel. So it's not looking good for salvaging this lower end. We will see once we pull it but just in case I'm gonna get another spare lower roller 305 because they are available now for cheap.
Already was intending on a cam swap and taking the heads in for work somewhere.
The good news the transmission didn't come with the car so I am guaranteed to not run into an issue with the transmission on this car, because it doesn't have one to cause me problems. I will probably just Fred Flintstone myself around when this is done.
The entire front end will need to be replaced underneath as well; ball joints, tie rods, you name it it needs it. I did see that 1a auto has a kit for $130 for most of the stuff so if I don't go with performance I may just go with oem like stuff for now. Couldn't be worse than what's on there now.
As stated before, the entire brake system needs to be replaced as well.
I'm really hoping the rear end looks good inside when I pull it too. The posi is fully functional and there is only slight surface rust on the axle tubes and the gasket for the diff is shot. Hopefully when I open it up there's no rust.
Glass appears to be in good shape. The windshield is even still good. There is a tiny chunk that chipped off of the windshield but it's not huge and didn't shatter it. I will probably get it replaced anyways.
Will need all new vacuum and hoses as well as a radiator. The dual fan bracket is fully intact and doesn't have any damage to it so I imagine just 2 new blower motors and I should be good to go there.
It's missing the negative battery cable so we will have to wire that up as well. Lots of random wiring for aftermarket radio all over the inside. I have the RPO code for a radio delete so I'm kind of scared whoever wired it up didn't do a good job. It has some sort of custom speaker boxes built into the door panels.
The hear hatch motor stuff seems to be clean and probably still works. My relationship with rear hatch motors is not very good. I have more time invested in my 88's rear hatch motor than any other project on it. It was a nightmare and I still have to finish it. So hopefully it's good to go on this one.
I want to get rid of the stock manifolds with those super convenient and attractive looking air tubes that make changing spark plugs fun and exciting. So I'm thinking of getting the Hooker 2055 kit that comes with the headers and y pipe. This will probably be the most expensive upgrade I do and I'm hoping I have the funds to do this when I have the motor pulled.
I'm hoping to not run into major things. I don't consider the lower end of the motor potentially being bad a major thing at this point since I was pulling the motor regardless. So it's just going to be a little extra work replacing that. I haven't seen any body rust underneath; it is actually cleaner than my 88 is. When I started to rip up the carpet, it looked very clean underneath and the insulation is still like new. Again, much nicer than my 88 is right now.
I am kind of trying to hurry this since I want to make it my daily and then when I'm done sell my 88 base. I have what I believe to be a fairly light semester this go around in school so that should help free up a little more time I didn't have last semester. I'm hoping to have mechanical stuff finished by the end of February because it will start becoming perfect weather outside to paint. I started to imagine a bright green like the cudas with black stripes and black interior with green striping. Not sure yet though.
Best of luck, that's a long road you have ahead of you!
Personally, I would part this car & save/make money for something that's in better condition & needs less work.
I would really hate to do that to a car that is mostly straight and not rust underneath. If it was a base camaro i wouldn't have even looked at it. But somebody cared about this car at one point, and it can be brought back. I will be trying to go cheap where I can that's safe to to get it back on the road. Which is why I will probably just stick with the 305 for now.
Best of luck, that's a long road you have ahead of you!
Personally, I would part this car & save/make money for something that's in better condition & needs less work.
Originally Posted by AmpleUnicorn88
I would really hate to do that to a car that is mostly straight and not rust underneath. If it was a base camaro i wouldn't have even looked at it. But somebody cared about this car at one point, and it can be brought back. I will be trying to go cheap where I can that's safe to to get it back on the road. Which is why I will probably just stick with the 305 for now.
All the work is the fun part lol I say stick with it. I might would take my time with it though. The iroc needs a lot. If you don't already use rockauto.com check it out. They have closeouts on parts and you can get stuff crazy cheap.
So what's the plan for the engine? Rebuild? Replace? Sounds like the cylinder was filled with coolant. You may be able to get the engine to turn but it's probably not worth it.
DO NOT PART THIS CAR OUT!!! It is def a salvageable project. That Flame Red Metallic makes me melt!!! Good luck man!
I'm not really a fan of the color, even if it was in good shape. When I repaint it, I'm going to be doing it a different color. I am focusing more on mechanical stuff first and want to get it running and make sure it drives well and the rear end is still good.
Got the motor pulled Sunday and started the tear down today. A little behind where I wanted to be this week but I had a family member go to the hospital so I am a bit behind now. I stopped at removing all the lower intake manifold bolts for the day. Surprisingly, most of the hardware wasn't hard taking off. I thought it was going to suck because this thing sat for years and is covered in dirt. The only thing that broke was the stud for the water neck for the thermostat broke off inside the intake manifold, but that won't prevent it from coming off the block and I will deal with it later. Just have to separate the lower intake manifold from the block, then remove the heads, and then the exhaust manifolds, and then I am basically done. I'm not using the lower block because it is seized, so I am trying to see what is and isn't still usable. I left the drain pan under the car and the exhaust fell out and landed in it, and dumped the power steering fluid all over the paved cement the car is parked on in my backyard. So that's is something I will have to deal with as well since I am renting, otherwise i'd probably just stain the concrete later.haha
Last edited by AmpleUnicorn88; 01-12-2016 at 09:08 PM.
You are moving along there, cant wait to see the finish product!
Yeah I'm trying to do a fast restoration on it because I was hoping to be done with the 88 i bought almost a year ago by now. I'm going on vacation in the summer and hoping to be able to drive the iroc by then. I'm hoping to maybe get a whole new top end soon and I have a complete bottom end so I'm close to be finished gathering engine parts.
Continued on the tear down today. A lot of carbon build up on this block. So far no rust on this side though. Hopefully when I pull the heads off it will look ok underneath.
Got the heads off today. I can see now why the crank doesn't turn by hand. Just a little rust, it will buff out.
This looks like the culprit to the motor seizing up. The other side didn't look too bad but it had corrosion on the cylinder walls so it definitely isn't that great. This side is much worse and it almost appears as if the piston fused with the block it's so badly corroded.
I know it might be hard to tell by these pics but just from visually looking at this stuff, it looks better than I was expecting. I'm hoping these heads aren't crack and a shop can clean that corrosion out and replace the vales if I stick with these heads. Lifters don't look too bad, no corrosion on the roller surface. Not sure as far as how the rest of it looks like it the wear on them is bad or if that's normal. Haven't pulled the cam yet. Pushrods don't appear bent and are just covered in carbon build up. I cleaned all the lifters really well and then coated them in fresh oil and threw them in a bag with fresh oil to sit.
Not really. I have a thread and someone tagged your thread in it. But this my 89 IROC z I plan on converting from auto to manual and was looking for tips and parts.
That's interesting somebody is referencing me on here unless it's my buddy I know personally.haha
But I don't think I have any spare parts transmission wise or anything related to it. Mine came as a manual and I'm staying manual.
As far as tips go, I don't like to pretend I know more than I do, so any questions you have, fire away, and I will try to answer them to the best of my knowledge. Post a link to your build thread so we can keep each other's as each other's. Or you can PM me.
I have figured out that I can use a 98-2004 f-body pedal set and will work perfectly for the ls and t-56 install I'm going for. I've quoted everything for the running gear through spohn performance and now just have to find somewhere to get my nine bolt rear end put back together with 3.9 or 4.10 gears.
So far, nothing has changed in the realm of getting stuff taken off or put back in. The car itself has been sitting since I pulled the engine. A little recap so far:
Motor in the iroc when I bought it was seized so I already went and got a 96+ 305 vortec block.
Heads are actually still saveable according to a shop I took them to to get a quote on headwork, and they are on the low side, and it was just over $1100 but that included a comp cam which is borderline too aggressive anyways. However, I decided not to go with these heads.
Bought a set of 081 casting rebuilt heads yesterday on eBay and they should be here by the end of next week. Got a pretty good deal on them so when I get them I will take them in to have bigger intake valves put in, the springs changed for my cam, and then gasket matching to the intake manifold.
I have a whole new TPI intake setup I got from a member on here. It's an edelbrock lower intake manifold that's been ported, edelbrock high-flo runners, and then a corvette tpi plenum that's been ported supposedly, a throttle body that's been ported a bit, and fuel rail with Ford 24# injectors. Not sure yet if I'm running with those injectors or not.
Found a guy through a member on here for the chip I will have burned. Will eventually either learn myself how to do it or take it in for a tune.
I was going to order dyno Don headers and y pipe, but I am now going to go with the Hooker 2055 header/y pipe kit. They don't make them without air tubes so I will do what my buddy did and cut them off then weld them close then take them to have them ceramic coated.
Still not sure about what exhaust system to run but I'm thinking either hookers cat back or magnaflows.
I plan on dropping the rear end out this next weekend, so I can clean it and replace the seal and make sure the gears look ok. I check them up in the air and the posi was still working so hopefully I don't find any surprises. Probably drop the tank while I'm at it and replace the fuel filter. Or I might get a new tank. Not sure yet.
I have about 2-3 weeks before I will be ready to get the engine dropped in hopefully, so the rear end/gas tank situation will hopefully be sorted out by then, and paint work in the engine bay and the motor.
I will need to order a carpet kit and replace the whole inside before I can drive it. Will also need another seat temporarily until I can get the 87 iroc seats redone.
This all sounds good, but I would be surprised if even 25% of the above goes according to plan. Time will tell.
So far, nothing has changed in the realm of getting stuff taken off or put back in. The car itself has been sitting since I pulled the engine. A little recap so far:
Motor in the iroc when I bought it was seized so I already went and got a 96+ 305 vortec block.
Heads are actually still saveable according to a shop I took them to to get a quote on headwork, and they are on the low side, and it was just over $1100 but that included a comp cam which is borderline too aggressive anyways. However, I decided not to go with these heads.
Bought a set of 081 casting rebuilt heads yesterday on eBay and they should be here by the end of next week. Got a pretty good deal on them so when I get them I will take them in to have bigger intake valves put in, the springs changed for my cam, and then gasket matching to the intake manifold.
I have a whole new TPI intake setup I got from a member on here. It's an edelbrock lower intake manifold that's been ported, edelbrock high-flo runners, and then a corvette tpi plenum that's been ported supposedly, a throttle body that's been ported a bit, and fuel rail with Ford 24# injectors. Not sure yet if I'm running with those injectors or not.
Found a guy through a member on here for the chip I will have burned. Will eventually either learn myself how to do it or take it in for a tune.
I was going to order dyno Don headers and y pipe, but I am now going to go with the Hooker 2055 header/y pipe kit. They don't make them without air tubes so I will do what my buddy did and cut them off then weld them close then take them to have them ceramic coated.
Still not sure about what exhaust system to run but I'm thinking either hookers cat back or magnaflows.
I plan on dropping the rear end out this next weekend, so I can clean it and replace the seal and make sure the gears look ok. I check them up in the air and the posi was still working so hopefully I don't find any surprises. Probably drop the tank while I'm at it and replace the fuel filter. Or I might get a new tank. Not sure yet.
I have about 2-3 weeks before I will be ready to get the engine dropped in hopefully, so the rear end/gas tank situation will hopefully be sorted out by then, and paint work in the engine bay and the motor.
I will need to order a carpet kit and replace the whole inside before I can drive it. Will also need another seat temporarily until I can get the 87 iroc seats redone.
This all sounds good, but I would be surprised if even 25% of the above goes according to plan. Time will tell.
lol yeah understandable. Nothing ever goes as planned. My car was supposed to be running weeks ago. Progress is progress though.
Yeah I'm still in College too and last week every teacher decided to give me a paper to do. Between work and school, I had time to sleep and eat and that's about it. This weekend I spent replacing the heater core on my other camaro, and then figuring out the elctrial problems on my Hyundai and cleaning it up to sell it. I anticipate a lot of my time being wasted this week because I just put my Hyundai up for sale and it's in the price range where you get everybody and their brother calling wanting to see it. So all I'm probably going to get done is get the camshaft ordered, and the headers/y pipe kit ordered. Maybe even the catback.
The plan right now is to have this thing running before my spring break from school, which is the end of March, so that I can get it painted. And then shortly after getting the ac going.
Yeah I'm still in College too and last week every teacher decided to give me a paper to do. Between work and school, I had time to sleep and eat and that's about it. This weekend I spent replacing the heater core on my other camaro, and then figuring out the elctrial problems on my Hyundai and cleaning it up to sell it. I anticipate a lot of my time being wasted this week because I just put my Hyundai up for sale and it's in the price range where you get everybody and their brother calling wanting to see it. So all I'm probably going to get done is get the camshaft ordered, and the headers/y pipe kit ordered. Maybe even the catback.
The plan right now is to have this thing running before my spring break from school, which is the end of March, so that I can get it painted. And then shortly after getting the ac going.
Yeah like i said progress is progress. I've got a pile of parts myself, but just when the think you've got everything you need you realize you need something else. They never go together as fast as you think they will.
Headers and Y pipe arrived today. Had an issue with the UPS driver so I had to go down to the UPS customer service center to pick them up. The UPS driver didn't feel comfortable leaving them at my house. I was out walking my dog when he came too. Man I was pissed. I called and they said they will tell him to leave it next time and that he will be released from liability, but he still refused, so the only way I could pick them up is going down to the customer service center. This is the first time I have had a issue involving something with Summit. It wasn't their fault, but if the UPS driver that has my route refuses to drop off all my car parts, then I don't know if I can keep ordering from summit, because I don't always have time to just run down to UPS while they are open because it isn't very close to my house.
Anyways, my heads will be shipped UPS and come on Wednesday, or they are supposed to be. So I had them change it so that they stay at the facility because I know that driver will be scared to deliver those too.
I am torn on what catback exhaust to order. I am wanting something loud but sounds nice. My buddy has the same cam I am going to order, and has a 305 TBI running the same headers and y pipe I just ordered, and has a flowmaster catback and his sounds pretty good, so I wouldn't opposed to having that. However, I kind of want to try out magnaflow, but it's almost $600 for a catback from them. I remember year ago that is was around $300 for a magnaflow catback, so times must have changed.haha
I will also be ordering some more stuff this weekend. Probably new pullies and an alternator, as well as miscellaneous stuff here or there, so that when I get the headers ceramic coated, the tpi setup powder coated/polished, i can be ready to just drop the engine in and start it up. I am probably going to take my entire spring break off from work, or possibly earlier, so I can push to get it done sooner, so I can be ready for paint by the end of march. Any later than that, and i will be limited to only painting at night or early morning due to the temperature getting too high again.
I think I am going to paint it the same way as my 88 in my signature. I really wanted to do something different, but I just can't seem to find anything I like more than this ultra blue metallic paint job. This is seriously one of the nicest looking colors I have seen on any car. I will go further with the engine painting and stuff under the hood, as well as try to do a better job than last time with the paint overall, but it will look very similar I think. I was contemplating red, but I don't like red with stripes nearly as much as just solid red. I wouldn't be opposed to a solid red either, but I still like the blue with white stripes more. I am also trying to be different than my buddy who has a 91, who I see frequently, and his is that redish maroon metallic paint code on his with black stripes.
Also, I don't supposed somebody can either give me a detailed description of how the negative battery cable routes, as in where it attaches and how it is routed. The iroc was missing the entire cable. I'm sure I can kind of do it however I want, but what was factory? I will need to know that for when I am getting ready to put the motor back in in about 3-4 weeks.
2 wire cable, small wire goes to frame rail, big wire goes behind the smog pump to the block. At least on mine it does. Hope this helps.
What year is yours and is it a TPI? I don't imagine the power and ground cables ran differently if they were being bolted to the smog stuff, but who knows. I'm not going to be running my smog, and that makes sense why it was missing if that's how it was originally done on mine because the smog pump was unbolted and left loose sitting in the engine bay, so somebody was tampering with it.
I have recieved the heads and headers. I dropped the heads off to get ceramic coated today and dropped the heads off I bought to have bigger intake valves put in and matching the porting done on my intake manifold. I will have the headers back in 2 weeks and the heads will be done sometime next week. I took the WC T5 V8 transmission I had to be looked at today as well and am waiting to hear back if the maindhaft is good or not and then go from there on rebuilding it. If the main shaft is bad, the guy said he could send it out to be grinded but once everything is all said and done, it's going to be quite a bit of money on a T5. I know of one locally I can pick up that seems fine so hopefully I find out before the week ends so I can go ****** that transmission if needed.
I heard back from the transmission guy already and he sent me pictures as well. The main shaft is slightly damaged on it so he is just going to put the input shaft back on and give it back to me. And by coincidence I knew of a junkyard that had a WC T5 from a V8 camaro and it was removed. They let me have it with the bell housing attached for $325. Which is a super good deal. I put my shifter on it and it shifted way better than any other T5 I have ever shifted. It came out of a 1990 Camaro that had quite a bit of aftermarket work done to it but was in a slight accident in the front left side. Over the weekend I grabbed the ac bracket from the same car and all the pullies as well as the cross member and the dust shield for the bell housing for $50 which is also a pretty good deal.
12-31-2015, 06:04 PM
