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Well it sounds like it really wants to turn over. If you have a multi meter you can pop the connectors off the fuel injectors and see if they are getting a reading. Also you can pull each plug and connect a spark plug to see if you are getting spark. Realistically I would just do what I did. Buy a new coil, set of oem plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor. It's like really cheap, and if all that stuff from 1986 like mine were I would just replace it anyways.
Well it sounds like it really wants to turn over. If you have a multi meter you can pop the connectors off the fuel injectors and see if they are getting a reading. Also you can pull each plug and connect a spark plug to see if you are getting spark. Realistically I would just do what I did. Buy a new coil, set of oem plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor. It's like really cheap, and if all that stuff from 1986 like mine were I would just replace it anyways.
Yeah I was looking up a new cap and rotor lastnight with wires... Looking at going MSD for red accents haha. as for plugs, does it matter which ones I get??
Yeah I was looking up a new cap and rotor lastnight with wires... Looking at going MSD for red accents haha. as for plugs, does it matter which ones I get??
Well ya I suppose. But your running a factory 305 tpi. Don't think you will see a major difference in power etc without more extensive mods. I would just save money for now and go oem.
Well ya I suppose. But your running a factory 305 tpi. Don't think you will see a major difference in power etc without more extensive mods. I would just save money for now and go oem.
Yeah I know, I'm going to keep this the original 305. I'm not looking to do anything that permanently alters this car ( maybe 5 spd swap? haha ). Easy bolt ons maybe, nothing extensive. But I am looking to clean up this engine bay and I think red spark plug wires would add a nice touch.
Uneven cranking speed, and something squeaking...are you sure you don't have an accessory that is frozen up? I had a Neon once that wouldn't start. Turned out to be a frozen alternator. Could not achieve enough cranking rpm to get it to start.
Uneven cranking speed, and something squeaking...are you sure you don't have an accessory that is frozen up? I had a Neon once that wouldn't start. Turned out to be a frozen alternator. Could not achieve enough cranking rpm to get it to start.
My smog pump possibly. I'll have to check tomorrow. Can I just cut that belt?
here is what I did today, I had very limited time so I was only able to pop off the distributor cap after labeling all the wires and such. What do you think of this distributor cap? Worth replacing? First, I checked a firing diagram and I followed each wire from the cylinder to the distributor cap...everything checked out. I'm not very mechanically inclined when it comes to this kind of thing, but you guys are definitely teaching me a lot!!
Pictures below indicate the position of the distributor cap and the rotor once I pulled it off.
here is what I did today, I had very limited time so I was only able to pop off the distributor cap after labeling all the wires and such. What do you think of this distributor cap? Worth replacing? First, I checked a firing diagram and I followed each wire from the cylinder to the distributor cap...everything checked out. I'm not very mechanically inclined when it comes to this kind of thing, but you guys are definitely teaching me a lot!!
Pictures below indicate the position of the distributor cap and the rotor once I pulled it off.
Definitely has use on it. I would replace it. That's the same exact one I had on my car. But mine had a stamp that said xx,xx,1986. So you may have the factory unit there.
Ok done! I'll have to get a new D cap and rotor for sure. Wires and plugs to check next.
while I was lookin around more thoroughly I noticed a mess behind the alternator here and under the Throttle body. And idea what can cause this? It's like a yellow powder almost.
So according to what mantaguy posted... I am missing a fuel pump; oil pressure switch... and I looked what that could do and I found this on yahoo answers...
On another note, should I use MSD's gm bushing or low resistance bushing they included in the packaging?? Illl be using their cap and rotor but my stock gm ignition coil for now ( to see if it starts )
You don't need one of those to get the codes.Stick a wire in the A&B socket of the ECM terminal.
Post 4 here shows how it was done on a '93 Lumina. Also shows a little key / tool that you used to be able to buy for a buck at your local parts store, back in the day. But a piece of wire, or bent up paper clip will do the same job.
Make a loop out of a pc.of wire,turn key to the on position,stick wire into A&B terminal,the 1st reading will be 1-2 (1 flash then 2 flashes )that will happen 3 times,then the diagnoses will start by a series of flashes,(example flash flash flash pause flash flash flash (3 times) that would be code 33,every flash would mean a number,again flash pause flash flash (3 times) would mean 12.every code will flash 3 times.so try and remember or write them down.
Post 4 here shows how it was done on a '93 Lumina. Also shows a little key / tool that you used to be able to buy for a buck at your local parts store, back in the day. But a piece of wire, or bent up paper clip will do the same job.
On another note, should I use MSD's gm bushing or low resistance bushing they included in the packaging?? Illl be using their cap and rotor but my stock gm ignition coil for now ( to see if it starts )
I found the same date stamp in my car! You can also find a date on the plastic that is the "sound proofing" on the door. You can aways tell the late 86 cars by the wheels. The early 86 cars got the n96 ws6 wheels, late 86 got the pw7 "cross lace" non dimpled wheels.
FYI...OBD 1 was the first On Board Diagnostics (OBD) system. Cutting edge in it's day, pretty crude by today's standards. It's fairly limited list of codes can get you pointed in the right direction, but does not point very specifically at a failed component. This gives you an idea that something is wrong somewhere in a system (MAP), but not specifically what. Is the MAP sensor bad? Is there a leak in a vacuum line? Is there an error in the computer reading the signal? Is there an open, or high resistance, in the harness to/from the sensor, creating a false reading? Corrosion at a connector body or terminal at the sensor, in line, or at the ECM? Just some possibilities you MIGHT run into (not saying that's the way the circuit works...just want you to understand how broad the code can be).
Today's OBD 2 vehicles have many, many more codes, and can be much more specific. It still doesn't tell you "change part X and you'll be all set", but it gets you a lot closer in a much more complex system.
Last edited by DynoDave43; 09-29-2016 at 05:48 PM.
Ok so I'll go over all my vacuum lines, I probably don't even know what I'm in for haha. Maybe I should do one at a time to eliminate possible confusion
Someone here will have a manual for your car. There will be a proper, step-by-step trouble tree for this code. Hopefully they will post it for you. Follow those steps, and you should find your problem.
Someone here will have a manual for your car. There will be a proper, step-by-step trouble tree for this code. Hopefully they will post it for you. Follow those steps, and you should find your problem.
I did get a manual from a member here for an 88 firebird. Not sure if it's the same procedure? Aren't some years alternators, ac pumps and other things swapped ?
You are coding MAF(mass air flow)your application doesn't use MAP you have the 5.0 Tpi.
Ah ok.
My mechanic friend came over yesterday and we were tinkering with a few things, and He unplugged the MAF and I tried starting it to let it idle and it still didnt run with or without the MAF plugged in. Can this sensor be the reason why my car wont start? ( I'm currently uploading a video on youtube so you guys can see what it does now )
09-26-2016, 03:48 PM
I thought I was on to something. 
Dave 