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Hi I'm Dave,
I'm new to the site, but I'm not new to 80's muscle cars or forums. I recently purchased a 1982 Pontiac Firebird. Her stock engine was replaced with a Jasper 350, I was told the new motor has less than 10K miles on it. The 700R4 was pulled out and rebuilt very recently(still has under 1k miles). So far I've replaced: the battery, the positive batter lead to the starter, the fan relay (electric fan), oil/filter, fuel filter, tires (mastercraft avenger's) headlights, wiperblades, alt/waterPump belt,
I've ordered a number of parts that have yet to be installed. This includes new distributor, plugs and wires, new brakes(CPR=Caliper,Pads,Rotors)
I managed to get the car for $2,000.00 and I have already put in more than that in parts and labor.
The car has a really good foundation, no body rot, the paint is in good shape (needs a good wax). the only small amount of rust that i noticed was around the ttop pillars, it's mainly surface rust and will be taken care of soon enough.
In the past I owned a 1985 Monte Carlo SS (had 73K original miles), I had this for about 7 yrs. It was a fun ride, but in the end the body needed a decent amount of work and I did not have the funds to continue with it. I think everything worked out for the best. I now have a stronger, faster, lighter, and better looking car with an aftermarket 350. The old monte had it's stock motor and trans.
There is a number of parts I need for this car, I hope to find help here. So far I am looking for: Headliner for a Ttop car, seatbelts(black or red), front bumper grills. I know there are more parts that I need, I will update this will a full list soon.
This is my daily driver, and I plan on wrenching away every weekend until it is how I want it. I also own a 2001 GMC Jimmy, which I will probably keep for the winter.
I will post showing progress, asking for help and or parts.
Project number one of this thread was a water pump replacement. O'Reilly auto had a Murray water pump for me. I've done water pumps in the past but on newer cars. This job was a bit more in depth because all of the accessory brackets are tied to the water pump. After getting the alt, and power steering unbolted I was able to remove and replace the water pump. In the end the bolt for the power steering wasn't lined up correctly and the bolt broke the water pump threads. Now I need to replace it again, and it probably needs to wait till this weekend.
There are no leaks, the car is running cooler than before the pump was installed. While I was at it I replaced the thermostat, radiator hoses, power steering belt (alt belt was replaced recently)
That's a good looking car, and a steal at $2000. Be careful with a little surface rust around T-top seals. Many of us will tell you about a few little rust bubbles that turned in to nasty, rusted out weather strip channels.
I have an issue now. The felt gasket didnt line up right before i buttoned it up. It has gasket maker on it. But now im worried this is an issue. I only let it idle for acouple of minutes. No leaks. Sould i be worried? Do i need to pull it apart again? Im already tired of this and i probably wont sleep until i know its right. Some please help.
Im going at it again after work today. Tearing it down again. Buying new gaskets and taking extra time to get it done right. I am so stressed out right now. But I won't sleep right until its done.
I can tell the gasket can possibly restrict the anti freeze. I cannot have that. and this time I am going to replace my water pump bolts. At this point they've been torqued down too many times.
Last edited by Animosity86; 05-19-2015 at 08:12 AM.
Coprice 9C1 - Thank you for stopping in, and the advice. I also think I got a great deal on the car, even after the rebuilt transmission. This car is far nicer then my old monte. I plan on getting the Ttop rust area removed soon, Plus I will be getting new weather stripping. I do not own a garage but this car is definitely being stored for the winters.
The water pump is all set, after a few set backs the new water pump is completely installed. It's running stronger and cooler. After all this work, my passenger window decided to start working! its very slow and I will be replacing the motor. But it's good to know the switch and wires to it are in good order.
Some other issues are: My speedometer and tach are off. I suspect my speedo to be off by at least 5 MPH, and my tach is just plain inaccurate. The car revs around the average 700 RPM's or so, but the tach usually reads around 2k RPM at idle. I think I've seen other people with the same issue. I was hoping the speedometer issue would have been picked up during the transmission rebuild, but it was not. And I suspect this speedometer issue is effecting the cars accuracy for mileage. Can someone please verify if the speedometer issue could show that I've put on more miles then I actually did? I feel like it does.
Has anyone swapped out their rear speakers? I'm great w car audio, but I was wondering if the entire sail panel needs to be taken off, or if i can just remove the fabric cover.
Rear speakers are easy. Unscrew the coat hooks and slide the fabric sail panel up and off.
Speedo being off can be two things (off the top of my head):
1. Wrong size/Underinflated/Overinflated Tires
2. Speedo gear in the tranny is incorrect - Do a quick search on speedo gears for a 700r4 and you'll find that they can be identified by color and relatively easy to get to (the driven gear, not the one in the tailhousing)
Also verify your speedo with a GPS.
Tach being off can be the distributor, although the stock tachs are not known for their accuracy lol. Best idea is to get a timing light and verify your tach and timing while you're at it. This will also aid in diagnosing the ignition if you need it down the road...
KnightmareCS - Thank you for stopping in and for the help.
This weekend I replaced my spark plugs and rear speakers. The rear speaker job was the easiest car audio job that I've ever done. The speakers were previously replaced w kenwood's but the polk audios I put in were more powerful and newer.
The car picks up faster and runs better w the new plugs.
One issue I have is after the water pump and thermostat were replaced, I still seem to be running kind of hot. My thermostat has been closer to 240. I ordered up a new radiator in case mine is clogged somewhere. And there was one hose that needed to be replaced too. It's been about one week since the new water pump was installed, I gave it time to burp out any air pockets, but it still seems to be hot, and all the fluid levels are good. From what I've read this will take care of it. Plus these are the last 2 parts needed to have completely replace the cooling systems.
On a better note, I met a fellow thirdgen.org forum member to purchase his rear hatch glass. I got 2 sets of glass for $20. These are backups for now, but I'm sure if a local third gen owner needed a hatch I would let one go.
Another issue I have is my instrument lights. At night the only gauge I can see is the temp; the MPH, tach, volts all have blown bulbs. I had an older car where I could remove the instument cluster and put new bulbs in. Does this cluster operate the same? Can I just buy bulbs? Also, what how hard is it to remove the cluster? does the entire dash need to be removed?
KnightmareCS - Thank you for stopping in and for the help.
This weekend I replaced my spark plugs and rear speakers. The rear speaker job was the easiest car audio job that I've ever done. The speakers were previously replaced w kenwood's but the polk audios I put in were more powerful and newer.
The car picks up faster and runs better w the new plugs.
One issue I have is after the water pump and thermostat were replaced, I still seem to be running kind of hot. My thermostat has been closer to 240. I ordered up a new radiator in case mine is clogged somewhere. And there was one hose that needed to be replaced too. It's been about one week since the new water pump was installed, I gave it time to burp out any air pockets, but it still seems to be hot, and all the fluid levels are good. From what I've read this will take care of it. Plus these are the last 2 parts needed to have completely replace the cooling systems.
On a better note, I met a fellow thirdgen.org forum member to purchase his rear hatch glass. I got 2 sets of glass for $20. These are backups for now, but I'm sure if a local third gen owner needed a hatch I would let one go.
Another issue I have is my instrument lights. At night the only gauge I can see is the temp; the MPH, tach, volts all have blown bulbs. I had an older car where I could remove the instument cluster and put new bulbs in. Does this cluster operate the same? Can I just buy bulbs? Also, what how hard is it to remove the cluster? does the entire dash need to be removed?
No problem dude.
It's a Trans Am correct? Gauges on the dash, not just dummy lights?
The cluster can be removed pretty easily. There are torx screws on the around outside of the gauge cover. Just be careful as some of the "screws" are fake, they're just molded plastic to look like screws. Removing the top dash pad makes it easier to remove the gauge cover (there are screws in the top vents that need to be removed), you'll just need to maneuver it around the steering wheel. If I remember correctly, once the cover is removed, the gauge assembly itself is a few screws and a connector on the back along with the speedo cable. If you search you'll be able to find a method to remove the cable. Once the gauge assembly is removed, you can pop out the bulb sockets and replace the bulbs. I believe they're 194s.
Good luck. It's not too bad.
I had a horrible morning, the car broke down. It got back up to 240*. It sputtered and my gauges crapped out, and it stalled. The volts gauge didnt move, etc, BUT my power windows worked. It would not show a sign of turning over. And I noticed some anti freeze leak out of the bottom hose. I really hope it's a relay issue, seemed to be electrical w the gauges cutting out. but I cannot tell, and my mechanic wont't be able to took at it until tomorrow. Does anyone have any experience w this issue? I've been beyond stressed out about this car recently. I feel gray hairs coming in.
On a good note, I checked the oil and did not see any anti freeze in it, which should mean my head gaskets are still good.
I feel like my GMC Jimmy is going to be registered tomorrow if this isn't diagnosed by tomorrow afternoon. I will also be looking into classic car insurance. Does anyone know of a classic car insurance provider other than Hagerty? My car doesn't seem to fit Hagerty's requirements.
I was wrong on the gages/torx screws. You start off by removing the panels around the rear defroster button and next to the steering wheels. You can see all the screws by putting your head down and look up. Also there are screws at the edge of dashpad, toward you. Been a while since I've been in my car.
As far as overheating, small blocks usually don't have headgasket issues, just heard of intake gaskets at times. When you bled the system, did you have the heat on at full blast? Coolant needs to run around the heater core, too. Here's another time where a timing light will come in handy. Check your timing to see if it is too far advanced. It can lead to the car running hot.
My overheating problems were solved by: new pump/radiator/hoses, proper bleeding with 50/50, stock temp thermostat (192-195*), dual electric fans + fan switch. You can also try switching to a 180* t-stat.
Need a little more info on the engine: stock computer controlled carb or manual carb, CC distributor or vacuum advance, any check engine lights (if all stock ignition/fueling/electrical). Throw up some pics of the engine bay.
You can look up the block casting code and decipher what you have. It is in the back of the engine, by the bellhousing of the tranny. It may be covered by paint.
Stamping ID on front by pass side head
Grundy does classics.
Last edited by KnightmareCS; 05-28-2015 at 09:35 PM.
KnightmareCS - Thank you very much for the help. I truly appreciate it. After yesterday morning the car went to my mechanic. It's in great hands, he is the best mechanic that I know.
I have good news. The motor is fine, it is not seized, and the head gaskets are good. The issue is electrical, which is what I suspected. To see no electrical equipment work except the power windows seemed very odd. My mechanic is working on it now. They were able to bypass the starter and get the motor to turn. Now they will track down that electrical issue, and work on the cooling system. I hope to have the car back at the end of the day or weekend depending on the issue. This news is a major relief.
My car is fixed. I was told that several wires attached to the started were hanging on by a thread. One of these was my power windows. But the car is ready to pick up. I'm shooting right there after work to get it. I don't know how long it took for him to track down the issue, but the bill was $180.00. This mechanic is always very fair with his prices. He has done a number of jobs free of charge. So I know the job was done right, and the price was reasonable.
*UPDATE*
I took the car home, by the time I got home I noticed the car running hot AGAIN. My father talked to my mechanic before I picked up the car, he mentioned the cooling system but I guess with all the new parts that I listed he thought it was all set. I turned right around and dropped the car off again. This issue where the car runs at a consistent 240* is killing me. I find myself upset every time I drive it, stressing out so much I was literally yelling at my thermostat. It's a huge problem to me, and I wont be ok until it runs at the right temp.. I believe the issue is the t-stat; but after all the time/energy I put into it; He needs to handle it.
Like I mentioned, I have the most faith in this mechanic. When there was an electrical issue it was clearly the biggest problem. But it was really half of the battle. I know he will take care of the issue today. I advised that he replaced the 190* tstat with a 180*. I've read that some t-stats can be faulty right out of the box.
Last edited by Animosity86; 06-02-2015 at 11:07 AM.
The issues is not that the car has been overheating, its been that the gauge is off. I just took it on the highway to get to work; I checked my temp w an inferred temp gauge and it was cooling at about 150* and my dash says 240*. I was advised to get aftermarket gauges. what's the best after market gauges I can get for the money? Right now my oil pressure, and temp gauge is off. And i still have an issue with my MPH and tach being off too. So basically my entire dash is wrong.
My mechanic also mentioned that my cooling fan is running at all times, and it could burn out the motor on it. He said I should get a temp controlled setup where they dont kick on until X temp. Does anyone know of a good setup?
I like Auto-Meter myself, but there are a lot of great gauges out there. Look at Summit, Jegs, etc...you will see some nice ones. Also, they come in different styles, colors, etc.
Glad to hear it's the gauges and nothing more with the motor
Crazynights - thank you, I'm looking into new gauges now.
Does any one have a good combo for rust removal/prevention? The center pillar for my T-tops has some surface rust. I want to work on it soon so it doesn't get worse. I spoke with an auto body guy yesterday he suggested that I do it by hand. In order to sand blast without damaging the paint or interior would require alot of masking off and prep work.
Now I need to deal with a new issue. Another electrical issue. On my ride into work my cd unit lost power. I checked acouple of things out, I also lost power to my headlights, and power windows. Does any one know what the issue is? I'd love to roll the windows up as it looks like it might rain today.
On my break it took about 2 minutes to figure out the problem. It is one wire to the starter, this was 'fixed' when it went to the shop last but the crimp job clearly was not good enough. The wire disconnected when I was screwing up the highway to work, when I was in traffic at the end of the off ramp is when I noticed that my CD unit didn't have power. Since we had rain in the forecast I needed my windows rolled up, With the help of my sister I was able to connect the wires and get the windows up.
Last edited by Animosity86; 06-09-2015 at 01:14 PM.
At this point I feel like I keep chasing the problem around. This past thursday I got the car back from the shop, it had a carb and timing tune up. It ran for 2 days and stalled out going 50 mph, then wouldnt start. The MSD ignition box was toast. Luckily my mechanic had some stock ignition parts laying around and gave them to me. I was only charged labor.
My father picked up the car. Our mechanic said something about driving the car easier, and not to rev over 5k RPM's and that it could blow my transmission. could someone please provide me some insight on this?? I dont know everything about the ignition box and setup. He mentioned to me that a new box w labor could run over $400. and the set up he put on it was running good.
Is it a good idea to replace the MSD box eventually? What at the advantages? This project might carry onto next year depending.
I have plans to replace my front bumper grills and get a new Ttop bar. the ttops leak and the bar has alittle too much rust on it.
GCrites80s - Thank you for stopping in. I dont believe the compression ratio is over 11:1. but I need more information on the engine. It was a Jasper built 350, the old owner says that it is a performance engine. I can say it does drive better. I could feel power loss with the old setup. I just knew something wasn't right.
I just ordered new bumper grill covers. Mine are broken. I will be looking into paint shops and price out what it might cost to match the paint. It could look fine with out a color match too. I decided to go with the below because the old ones were broken when someone was working under the hood; the opening in the grill happened to line up with your knees. As he was working he applied too much pressure on the grills and they broke. These new ones are a solid design and this should not be an issue. I will also be installing my show n go license plate holder at the same time as the grill covers. There will be no holes drilled into this bumper.
I just noticed one of the rails to my drivers seat was rusted out; the mount to the floor broke. Does any one know if i only the rail alone is replaceable or if i need a new seat?
I have another issue. Its been shaky at high speeds when I'm on the gas, and at low speeds i feel resistance. I feel its time for a brake job. The stopping power is weak. I already purchased the front calipers, pads and rotors. I got new wheel bearings too. I hope that this corrects the problem.
The car was in the shop over the weekend, unfortunately this shop isn't open on saturday. My mechanic gave me a quick call this morning. He was in the process of pulling apart the rear drums, he noticed a leaky seal in the rear end, I gave him the OK to fix this. During the test drive he wasn't very happy with how it ran, so a tune up will be done today.
New front & rear brakes and a full tuneup will be completed. I was quoted around $500.00 which I think is fair for the amount of work being done.
I can't wait to get out of work, my car should be running better than ever, and should have real stopping power. I will provide an update after a test drive. This thread is due for some pictures too.
I have the car back from the shop. I'm impressed with the work that was done to it. She was running sluggish. Shes back to her powerful self. Her stopping power is better than ever.
Does any one know how to easily remove the nose of this car? i need to install my grill covers. Is it a difficult task? how long would this usually take?
...OK. I notice a trend, I post something new, and no one bothers to answer my previous post. I feel like I need a new site. Too many questions are going unanswered.
Since my last post I have taken the car on its longest drive since I've owned it. We went to Maine and back which was at least 200 miles round trip. She drove great. I had no issues. It gives me confidence in the car, and its ability to drive longer distances. I will take her to concerts and other events soon.
I have new seat track for my drivers seat on the way. I wish I found new seat belts because if i remove the seat, I would want to install them. Since I will need to remove the seat I will secure/properly install my seat covers.
I noticed my car leaks, around the drivers ttop, and down the rear hatch. The water leaks down the hatch glass and enters the car at the deck lid. Does anyone have tips on how to fix the hatch leak? I feel a bead of chalk would help, but i want to make sure this is done correctly. and The Ttops need new weather stripping and Ttop bar.
...OK. I notice a trend, I post something new, and no one bothers to answer my previous post. I feel like I need a new site. Too many questions are going unanswered.
You will have a better response if you ask questions in the appropriate section. If you have engine questions, post in Tech/General Engine. Anything with t tops, exterior etc, post in Body. Not all members read the NE region section. Probably only the ones who live there.
BTW, your car is coming along great. I have 2 1982 cars. Not that many of them around anymore.
You will have a better response if you ask questions in the appropriate section. If you have engine questions, post in Tech/General Engine. Anything with t tops, exterior etc, post in Body. Not all members read the NE region section. Probably only the ones who live there.
BTW, your car is coming along great. I have 2 1982 cars. Not that many of them around anymore.
I agree, that makes sense. I was hoping for help in all areas as this is more of a general project thread. As you can see, I have questions in all of the areas you listed. It would be nice if I didnt need to start a thread for every little thing, and i could get help general help in one location. But if I need an answer I will be sure to post in the correct section... these posts should still pop up under 'New Posts' but it seems not everyone uses this function of the website. I do.
I will create a username for http://nec-f.net/. this is more for locals to my area.
Thank you, this is a one owner car. Some chick w a heavy foot owned it in the past as she lost her license in this car. But it was restored back in 96, the paint is still in good shape, the long tube headers make her sounds deep and mean. I truly love this car. After being in and out of the shop for the first a couple months, things seem to be working as they should. Im happy with how it drives and handles.
Do you have any advice with the leaky hatch? I wonder if you had the same issue at one point.
i plan on getting new seals for the entire car. i got leather 4th gen seats, cant have leaks.
I was wondering if you guys had any tips when it comes to painting an engine in the car? I just watched this video from duplicolor. it was very helpful. but i was wondering if any one has done this before.. I was told that my engine had less than 10K miles on it, it sat for awhile. With no paper work, I dont offically know. All i know is, the engine could really use a coat of paint. And pulling the motor to paint it, is not a plan.
Im also thinking of a Black engine. Any thoughts? Too many orange out there, and dark is the overall theme.
The video points out some good product, (all duplicolor of course):
grease and wax remover
VHT engine enamel
and prep spray
I also want to detail the exterior of the car. The paint still has a good clear coat to it, but i want to make it pop/bring it back to life. I have an orbital buffer, but i dont know the best products to use. I think i grabbed turtle wax compound.
05-14-2015, 10:49 AM
I will provide an update after a test drive. This thread is due for some pictures too. 
