five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Search only found something I said last year...

The used slicks I picked up last year were mounted with rim screws on the outside only. So, couple of questions:

1) Should you have screws on inside & outside, or is one side sufficient? The guy I bought the slicks from goes a whole lot faster than I do.

2) How many screws does it take? 4? 6? 8?

Okay, three questions:

3) Do the screws need to be a special high-strength material, or are the plain steel sheet metal that were used adequate?

We're not talking about a 10-second car here, but when you're running 12-14 psi, the screws would seem to be an extra safety factor.

Mad-Mic

how fast are you running? 14's? if so you don't need screws.

FYI screws in the front is adequate and 8 would be enough unless your running sub 10 sec runs.

just mark the tire and the rim with a line and see if it slips around on the rim to actually find out but if your sig says 14 seconds then i seriously doubt it will slip.

AlkyIROC

When I started spinning the tires on the rims I installed rim screws. I use Moroso screws which are a grade 8 screw unlike the softer generic screws. I put the screws on the inside and outside and have 8 on each side of the rim although 4 would probably do. I usually run 12 psi in the tires.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Believe me, there is alot to be said about bead glue. I used to spin the rim about 1-2" every race then I heard about bead glue, silicone, etc...totally cured the rim spin problem. Our guys run the slicks as low as 10psi without screws, but our big block guys have to have em, we're talking 1-2" per pass. Definatley get grade 8, get a hex head instead of phillips, BTE sells the screw kit with a drill bit even for $7-how cool is that. 4 is proabaly plenty, but 8 is common, index them so the slick does not twist under load-this is crutial in extremely high hp launch so the car does not want to veer 1 direction or the other. Before you index them, we made a cardboard template to get them all spaced even, and start on the side of the rim with the wheel weights so you can get all the screws across from each other-hard lesson learned Also, when you drill the rims-we did ours with slicks mounted and aired up, use a cordless and light pressure since you just want to drill the rim, not the tire. Alot of guys make this mistake and go through the bead and then have to air up the tires all the time since they bleed down air. We also went a step further and put a little silicone on the threads before we bolted them in for that little extra since we don't like to get out the air tank of fire up the compressor if we don't have too.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Yeah, I had forgotten that I had heard about silicone RTV from a fellow racer last year (saw that discussion with you from last year in my search today). But, the new tires are mounted now, I don't have a bead breaker, the rims are already drilled on the outside, etc., etc., etc.

I'll get a screw kit next time I order from Summit and use the good stuff inside & out. I may be in the 14's now, but I'll be launching in the powerband from now on... https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=197892

AlkyIROC

You drill the rims with the tire off it. Once the holes are drilled, clean up the burrs on the backside with a file or die grinder. Mount the tires and fill them to 25-30 psi when installing the screws.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Certainly won't be happening before this weekend, then...