brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

i know the feeling....mine's with my blaster though.....2500 bucks deep to get it running right....right after i get the motor broken in it decided to shell the trans. damn little toys anyway lol

stage20

iTrader: (3)

at least you got the cam in.

1/4 line to the rear?
ive always plumbed mine one size(3/16) for simplicity. more volume to the rear help with braking?
just curious.

Curtisyz54

iTrader: (5)

Will this work the same? it says for 4th gen But I dont think its any different.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-MBK001/

I dont wanna spend the extra $100. But when it comes to brakes I dont reallt wanna mess around.

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

here are other kit options.....
http://www.burkhartchassis.com/id84.html
http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?m...products_id=77

Curtisyz54

iTrader: (5)

Ok Thanks. So thoes kits say 82-02. so id say the BMR one should work just fine in a 3rd gen, i dont see why not. Cause I wanna order from summit.

Curtisyz54

iTrader: (5)

anyone know? will the BMR kit thats for "4th gens" be just fine in a 3rd gen. I dont see why it would be different. All other kits say 82-92. and it has the same plate, and harware.

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

it should work fine

Curtisyz54

iTrader: (5)

Yeah I dont see why not. anyone else have an idea?

stage20

iTrader: (3)

firewall and pedal assembly is almost identical. you wont have any issues with the bmr, burkhart or the racecraft setup.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

stock was 1/4" to the rear so i left it that way. who knows, right now it doesn't stop so i'm up in the air

Curtisyz54

iTrader: (5)

Ok good. I bought the BMR one. I wonder why BMR doesnt say 82-02 Fbodys.

bygblok

iTrader: (3)

I went with the Burkhadt peice and it was advertised for 82-02. Bolted right in other than I'm dealing with some creative bending on the brake switch bracket. Going to have to move everything to the rear about 1/2" in order to use my factory brake light switch/bracket......................unless I pull the pedal back out and relocate the hole but I don't think I have room to do that either.

stage20

iTrader: (3)

i had a similar issue bill!
even went and bought a new switch, thought i damaged mine. the clip that holds it isnt strong enough. i went and got 2 thin 1/2"x20 fine thread jam nuts and put the sucker where i wanted it. may have been 9/16 fine thread. mic it or take it to renyolds hardware with you.
either my brake lights didnt work, or they were on all the time.
aggrevating.
good luck man!

drperformance

iTrader: (5)

Guys,

At what point is a cam too big for power brakes? With my new cam ~250 duration and 670 lift on 110, I have no brakes. In preparation I even installed a vacuum can. I bleed the sh*t out of the system check to insure everything is holding a vacuum but still not brakes with the engine running but the petal feels great not running.

Thanks

red406

iTrader: (4)

I think I read that you will want about 15in of vacuum. That's a healthy cam. I would guess that you don't have enough vacuum.

stage20

iTrader: (3)

ive run with 12 inches before, but you only get one motion to stop it once you start slowing down.
if you let up on the pedal, it would be hard. this could also be an issue of an old and worn booster.
everyone tells me manual brakes are hard to stop, but my power wasnt much easier. my power brakes wouldnt even hold my car at the starting line.
my new setup only makes 7-8, so manual was a no brainer at this point.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

If you can easily bolt the stock M/C back in try that one. It has a smaller bore then the Strange M/C.

The 89 dodge caravan M/C has a 15/16" bore.

For a 7/8" bore M/C get one for an '89 dodge daytona es.

For an even smaller 13/16" bore the '88 dodge daytona is the one to get.

Just double check the bore size at the store before purchasing. Some lines use the same M/C across the different vehicles.

Can also try a more aggressive pad compound. Although do need to be careful here are some are too aggressive (wears the rotors), or require heat before working properly.

RBob.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I just swapped to man. brakes about 3 mo. ago.

I used the small bore strange MC, drilled brake pedal arm 1-1/8" higher, deleted the prop valve, added wilwood residaul valve, tci line lock. Stops great for man brakes. Much better than some of the older cars with man brakes that I had in past.

Rest of my brake setup is autozone std replacement calipers, durlast brake pads, powerstop slotted rotors

second gen F body reardrum setup on a 9" rear (autozone brake shoes, and wheel cyl for 78 trans am), late 70's - mid 80's alum brake drums

Heres my man. brake pics
http://rides.webshots.com/album/576633326bpLZCW

drperformance

iTrader: (5)

Still trying to get brakes before hitting the track. I bench bled the master today and re-bled all four corners. I fired up the car an in park it feels like I might have on pump befor loosing all vacuum and the pedal stiffening up. At idle I have about 6-7 inches of vacuum and teens when under throttle.

I am thinking maunal brakes are in my future. I am going to go with a strange master (1.032" bore) because I currently have 4 wheel disks with single piston calipers. I am thinking this will get me running this season the next year I will upgrade to a strange front 4 piston caliper drag kit.

What is everyone's thoughts?

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the sooner you switch it over the manual, the safeer you and the folks around you will be. your plan is a good one

drperformance

iTrader: (5)

Those of you with a Strange 1.032" bore master cylinder how did you hook it up? I see that the instructions state that the outlet closest to the plunger has the most stopping power and that drag racers hook the rear there with rear 4 piston calipers.

This is a drag only car with a Wilwood rear proportioning valve, slicks in the rear and skineys up front but I am running single pistons on a four corners. Should I hook the most power to the rears to held with foot braking off the line and dial down the pressure if needed? Or should I put the most to the front?

squeeezer

i just ordered this kit looks good
installing moser 9"rear with wilwood dynalight calipers

red406

iTrader: (4)

Let us know how it works out for you. Does it come with a new brake pedal?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

no you pull your old brake pedal off and drill a hole 1" higher on it and install it with a bolt and lock nut

Project-RS

iTrader: (1)

i plan on ordering this setup also. does it matter that im running my stock front rotors and aluminum rear drums? its going to see a good amount of driving also.

gtpro700

xpndbl you ever figure out what was up with your brakes? are they better now or just dealing with it? What kit did you use again?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

just bought an adapter plate which is available all over the internet for 3&4th gens. Now I'm running a wilwood 1.032 or 1.06(can't remember) bore with lt1 rear discs and stock front discs and the pedal is SOOO Much better and the car actually stops now.

The 1.125" strange bore they recommended for me was far too large and I couldn't move the pedal enough to build any pressure since it was so firm. Now it's much improved, still firmer than power brakes obviously but much better.

stage20

iTrader: (3)

the factory dodge master cylinder increases pressure with a smaller bore and is a lil easier on your leg AND wallet.

15/16 bore or .9375

squeeezer

the one im installing is a 1.060 bore
still getting some air out of it as of now
im getting a pedal and it feels like it will be comprable to the power factory feel

stage20

iTrader: (3)

keep us posted!

Curtisyz54

iTrader: (5)

here is mine.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

time to ditch the vac can and booster. I have the 4 wheel disc, iron calipers.

ive been looking at all the links and info you guys posted. i think i read in there somewhere that the strange m/c is biased 60/40. do you think that a prop valve would still be ness for a street strip car?

now for the brake lines, this might be a stupid question, but is there a reason for the way that lines are shaped? my 83 custom deluxe has man brakes. and they work great. the lines coming out of the m/c are cork screw shaped down to the T. is that for extra fluid or cooling maybe or just a way to use up a standard piece of line?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

it's for flex

squeeezer

not!!!!!!!

stage20

iTrader: (3)

they are coiled to eliminate resonance and vibration in the line that will fatigue it overtime and cause it to leak.

i did manual brakes on my car and did not loop the line. my dad saw it one day when he was checking out my car and had a fit. LOL.
thats why he says the factory does it, and i guess i should have too.

built91Z28

Sorry to dig up a dieing thread, but I had a few questions and this seemed the best place to ask.

I want to convert mine to manual, becuase I'm having issues with my master hitting the strut mount. I'm running a 4th gen master. Plus I really like the look of manual and the clearance for the valve cover would be nice.

I am running stock front calipers and Wilwood dynalite 4 piston out back. I have an adjustable valve for the rear brakes and the front goes straight from the master to the linelock, to the brakes. I was wondering if it would be strong enough to weld a section of 1/8" steel to the firewall and the drill holes for the master rather than buying the aluminum piece. If its not strong enough, I'll buy the aluminum piece, its just lately everything has to be done on more of a tight budget.

My other question is what size bore master should I go with? Since I'm running 4 pistons out back, I didnt know if that would change the bore size I should run. I would rather them feel a little mushy but work good, than to feel nice but not work as well. I was thinking of trying the 89 Caravan master. Its also half the price of the Strange, which is nice. Also, what size lines are you guys running? I honestly dont remember what size I have now. None of them are factory, thats all I know. Once again, will the 4 piston calipers out back change the size of the line over factory brakes? Thanks for any help.

squeeezer

got mine out on the road for the first time
too much sand/salt,and gravel out there
i used a 1.060 bore master
im thinking a 1.030 too soon to tell yet
pedal feel is good to slow down or fist inch of travel
but to stop fast=jury is still out

i just want to clear things up on previous posts

1.125'' = 1 1/8 bore
1.060 = 1 1/16
1.030 = 1 1/32
that is all

BBCpoweredZ28

iTrader: (3)

Might be picking up a strange 1.03 manual master and hardware for about $45 but need adapter plate and rod end. Anybody offer these in a kit. I found them with master but not separate from it. Maybe just call and ask for special order?

stage20

iTrader: (3)

you can get an adapter plate from burkhart or trz and i bought an adjustable pushrod from aerospace. on some masterclyinders you may have to grind the bullet end of the pushrod to go into the master cylinder.

plate is about 75 bucks and the pushrod kit with heim and bolts from aersopace is around 40 bucks.

squeeezer

well im not very satified with brake performance (or need to get used to "feel")
tried port a to rears=line lock sucked
swapped port a to fronts=works better
pedal feels good though

BBCpoweredZ28

iTrader: (3)

Update:

eBay special strange master (B3360 iirc) for $30 shipped new in box. And smith performance sells their kit minus m/c for $85 plus shipping. So co
Complete manual setup ran me just $115. Now to pick up a line lock.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

im having a day trying to flare the stock lines. are the stock lines metric on a 90?

if they are, can you use a 3/16 tube nut on the 4.75 line with a 3/16 flare?
and the same for a 1/4 on a 6 mm line?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

yes, they are all metric after 84?

1/4" tube is a little larger than 6mm, so to use the old nut on 1/4" line you have to drill the nut out to 1/4". I think the 3/16-4.75mm will be fine. Flare will be fine

or buy the right line....

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

i was wanting to use the 1/4 nut on the 6mm line with a 1/4 flare.

alright thank you. im just going to run new line and be done with it for simplicity sake.

Project-RS

iTrader: (1)

sorry to bring up this old thread again, but are these kits harder to install with keeping my aluminum drum rear end?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

no, just need a master cylinder for disc/drum

Project-RS

iTrader: (1)

ok, thanks. i want to go to disk rear, but working on getting my engine redone first

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

finalize your brake setup before buying, because they are different

Beeman

3rd. gens use metric lines with bubble flares. The Mopar/Strange style MC use conventional double flares. Be aware when installing brake lines. I replaced all of my lines and used stainless flex lines that were made for a 3rd gen but with conventional double flare ends. I ordered them from Earl's.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

any parts store sells the adapter fittings