When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
here in NC the hill climb class for my car is street unlimited. I may be able to run as CP I'll have to check. The organizers of the "Chasing The Dragon Hillclimb" use scca classes for the most part.
having seen that, i just dont think i could ever drive like that. seeing all those cones laid out like that it seems so un-apparent what the course is. i would just be constantly screaming "WHERE THE **** AM I SUPPOSED TO GO!!!???"
I'm always worker chief in my region, and with as busy as the job gets, sometimes I can't walk course. I usually just get a ride with someone during practice, and then look VERY far ahead when I run.
Here is my solo1 GTA, mods include;
Chopped front end with fiberglass full front and hood with reverse scoops, headlight delete. Custom made subframe connectors/chassis/rollbar(all joined together), custom chromemolly adjustable torque arm, UMI suspension, Koni shocks, Hotchkis racing springs, LT1 front brakes with brake byas, poly everywhere, Hawks rear hatch with embed fiberglass aero wing(very light, just under 40 pounds), T56 6 speed, T76 turbo intercooled, 60# injectors, Holley Stealth Ram with Holley Commander 950 EFI. And everything that did not play a roll on running, stopping or steering the car was deleted. Some cosmetic parts were left untouched or modified to be lighter with stock look, like the center console that is made of light fiberglass with carbon fiber instead of the plastic/rubber made stock one that incredibly weighted a ton.
Still needs racing seats(got tired of slidding my butt off the stock ones) and yes a new built motor since the one moving the mill is an original, GM assembled, untouched stock one... and still starting everyday after ALLLLLL the abuse and boost!!
I was fighting rear brake hop that day and couldn't brake as deep as I probably could have. I have since put new pads in and I think they will be a lot better.
Here's my last track day at Lime rock Park in CT...the cool thing was that there was ANOTHER third gen in my session...that NEVER happens! I had the go pro behind my headlight cover on the right side....the engine sounds great! Good fun!
wow! i'm a drag racer, my attention span is very short. I watched that entire video! some serious wheel-to-wheel action going on there, and very nice save 1 minute in! awesome.
Awesome driving & great in car footage. Iv'e been to the glen once, what a great track. Send or post some photo's of your car if possible. Do you run your car in the south jersey region @ NJMP?
Here are a few pics of my 83Z track day car under construction. Hope to have it finished by next summer. Front suspension is 4th gen camaro with spindles mounted 5" forward from stock 3rd gen.
The full build is on the fabrication forum under home brew road racer.
Here are a few pics of my 83Z track day car under construction. Hope to have it finished by next summer. Front suspension is 4th gen camaro with spindles mounted 5" forward from stock 3rd gen.
The full build is on the fabrication forum under home brew road racer.
I'm pretty sure that I'm set on what chassis mods to go with. ... up front, I'll go with a variation of 83RDRACR's setup, move the front suspension forward 3" & move the engine/trans back 9", this will allow me the space between the radiator & the front of the engine to route the air ducts that I have planned. As well as the angled radiator with tubular core support.
For the rear, I've decided to leave the stock width frame. The watts link will still need to be modified, but only slightly (going to move the mounting points inboard for tire clearance ), as well as moving the LCA'S inboard , I already had planned on flaring the rear quarter panels an inch & a half. ..so changing that to 3" is not as much as changing the entire rear section & suspension.
Going with 19x10.5 front & 19x12.5 rear Niche Citrine three piece & Nitto Invo tires 305/30/19 & 345/30/19.
I really wanted to put 20's out back ( but just for looks ), the fact is that the 19's will be lighter & can run the same width tire.
Any thoughts?
Lost a shift fork in the T5 on Saturday. Sunday's race finished 4th in class. The big thing is we ran competitive times and mostly lost out due to bad breaks with redflags and fuel stops as well as an incorrect 'passing under yellow' penalty where we got hosed. The last race at TWS, we won GP4 both days. It happens.
Weighs 3100ish depending on the ballast we're running.
Tires must be 180 treadwear or better and we've run the dunlop star specs, the nitto nt05s and tested the Falken Fk615 at COTA. We liked them and will run them the next race. 275.40.17s.
Dampers are factory low-mile deCarbons in the rear and the HD bilstein B6 non-adjustables in the front. No rear bar but the huge solid ST bar up front. We run a lot of front spring rate.
Next step on handling is to dial in the falkens more and see what they like. We rough-guessed the air pressure for COTA but I'll test soon and we'll hook up my real-time-tire temperature rig (http://www.witchdoctormotorsports.com/ch192.htm) to get the tires in the sweet spot for pressure and alignment settings. Once that is done, we'll see what comes next.
Still running the stock front single-piston brakes with good luck, but I'm helping to develop a cost-effective kit to run the wilwood superlite calipers with a badass 3-point bracket (most kits, including stock 1LE, use a two point bracket) which is coming soon. We have 3.23 and 3.42 rear ends depending on track. The rears are 4th gen setups and we run the 2.25" bolt on front spacers so we can use easy-n-cheap 4th gen/corvette wheels.
WRL has four classes, (GP1, GP2, GP3 and GP4) and they are based on power to weight. We run the slowest class, GP4, which has a power to weight limit of 18 to 1. We have the 170hp TBI 305 and at 18 we need to weigh 3060. Gp3 is 15:1, Gp2 is 13:1 and gp1 is 11:1. Clearly we could go TPI motor and jump classes, but the car is cost effective to run and very fun to drive.
I really do like the look of your car! Clean & straightforward.
I'm not building my car for competition, just like to see what is working for people. ..& I enjoy talking about 3rd gen's
Here are a few pics of my 83Z track day car under construction. Hope to have it finished by next summer. Front suspension is 4th gen camaro with spindles mounted 5" forward from stock 3rd gen.
....
The full build is on the fabrication forum under home brew road racer.
You gonna get the new hub/bearing assemblies from the guys on FRRAX?
here in NC the hill climb class for my car is street unlimited. I may be able to run as CP I'll have to check. The organizers of the "Chasing The Dragon Hillclimb" use scca classes for the most part.
Im in the same boat as you... my car is more of a street car currently, though.
Do you have any idea what the roll bar requirements are? I was having a real hard time finding what the SCCA required in terms of roll cage specs.
You gonna get the new hub/bearing assemblies from the guys on FRRAX?
I have read where the 4th gen bearings loosen up under hard cornering. I haven't seen the ffrax bearing but assume they are the vette pieces with adapter plate that I have seen on the web. If and when mine loosen up I think I will use the bearing housing to try and make a bolt in spindle that could use a standard GM spindle and bearing setup and get rid of the hub/bearing assembly all together.
I have read where the 4th gen bearings loosen up under hard cornering. I haven't seen the ffrax bearing but assume they are the vette pieces with adapter plate that I have seen on the web. If and when mine loosen up I think I will use the bearing housing to try and make a bolt in spindle that could use a standard GM spindle and bearing setup and get rid of the hub/bearing assembly all together.
That's essentially what they have done... Ive seen a lot of failed attempts to solve that problem that resulted in a lot of wrecked cars. This is the first one that's had any real engineering behind it and they were really thorough with it. Uses a 3rd gen spindle setup.
Thanks for the link, It looks like a great product and I am sure it is well worth the price especially if you need or want to keep the ABS function. My version would be to make a bolt in/press in spindle that would accept a common GM or Wilwood hub and bearing package. Something based on a spindle pin like the ones from Howe Racing http://www.howeracing.com/p-7672-spindle-parts.aspx
I will have to see how quickly they loosen up. Right now I have 275-40R17 UHP street tires on 9" wheels all the way around. For autox and track days I am looking to run 305 or 315 on 18 x 10.5. Both tire and wheel packages use back spacing that only puts 3" of the wheel to the outside of the hub face to minimize scrub radius and hopefully will be easy on the bearings too.
Thanks for the link, It looks like a great product and I am sure it is well worth the price especially if you need or want to keep the ABS function. My version would be to make a bolt in/press in spindle that would accept a common GM or Wilwood hub and bearing package. Something based on a spindle pin like the ones from Howe Racing http://www.howeracing.com/p-7672-spindle-parts.aspx
I will have to see how quickly they loosen up. Right now I have 275-40R17 UHP street tires on 9" wheels all the way around. For autox and track days I am looking to run 305 or 315 on 18 x 10.5. Both tire and wheel packages use back spacing that only puts 3" of the wheel to the outside of the hub face to minimize scrub radius and hopefully will be easy on the bearings too.
I would suggest you dig up the thread where they designed those spindles on frrax... they were originally trying to do something like that but ran into some issues. They may not apply to you (As you noticed, those retain ABS functionality, among other stuff that we dont need) ,but they did a lot of crazy work and research to end up with what they have and they shared quite a bit of it, so it may be pretty useful for you to dig through it. What's more interesting is all the ways they tried to do it that failed, and there are references in that thread to other solutions that came along over the years and failed spectacularly (And destructively).
Infernal I have tried numerous times over the past several years to join FFRAX but to no avail. Any help getting into this exclusive? club would be appreciated. By the way I just tried again but site says they are not accepting new members.
Infernal I have tried numerous times over the past several years to join FFRAX but to no avail. Any help getting into this exclusive? club would be appreciated. By the way I just tried again but site says they are not accepting new members.
I recently registered. You have to email the administrator (email is on the page) and request to join. Give him a username and email address to register and he'll respond back with a user account and default password.
I recently registered. You have to email the administrator (email is on the page) and request to join. Give him a username and email address to register and he'll respond back with a user account and default password.
89GTA, thanks for info. I just sent email to trackbird.
09-05-2014, 07:43 PM
