AlkyIROC

Same rules as every other year. Make it something obtainable.

Setting new personal bests? Winning an event? Making it through the season without breaking anything? Making it out to at least one race?

I sat out the last two race seasons. With the loss of the local track, the ambition to get ready to race dropped way off. I really want to get the car back together and get an 8 second timeslip.

PurelyPMD

iTrader: (3)

I'd like to finally get into the 12's with my F.A.S.T./Pure Stock 71 GT-37. So far my personal best was 13.31 with 3:08 gears but I've replaced those with 3:73's. The car is capable of it, the driver needs to launch better!

As for my IROC, I'd just like to take it out for a drive occasionally and chirp 2nd to satisfy the child in me.

skinny z

Now that I've moved across the country, my home track (Castrol Raceway near Edmonton) is only 20 miles away.
I'm looking to repeat the performance I laid down last year (in Ontario) which was perhaps a not too impressive 12.6 (for no tuning and nearly 3700 lbs) but improve on it. Low 12's should be very reachable. There's at least a 1/10th in the 60', based on previous bests and probably another couple in the tuning. AFRs were dead nuts lean on the 12.6 pass. Still that was nearly 108 mph, so there's a lot left in it for sure.
I hope to sign up for the local bracket series too.
The local scene looks intense.

skinny z

I've heard talk of a new facility being built. Any word?

AlkyIROC

No plans for a dragstrip at this time. Big money owners/investors are more interested in getting a road course made first then maybe an oval. By the time a dragstrip gets built around here, I'll probably be too old to race.

Don't get your hopes too high. Ontario's tracks have a very low elevation. Castrol's official altitude is 2306 feet. It's not uncommon to have a DA well over 4000 feet in the heat of the summer. You will run slower!

Castrol is my home track because I race under IHRA rules. However it's a 2-1/2 hour tow from my house in Calgary That means having everything loaded up and heading out the door by 6am. Race all day long and hope to be home before 9pm if I only do a single day race. Castrol normally has Saturday/Sunday racing and I don't overnight my stay. My girlfriend doesn't want to sleep in a tent. Lots of hotels in Nisku but during big events, advance booking is mandatory or you don't get a room. I just stayed at a hotel in Red Deer last month. It was around $125 for the night so that would have to be added to the racing expenses. Entry fee(s), diesel for the tow vehicle, race fuel, accommodation, food etc. I could probably do a single day of racing for around $250 providing I don't break anything. Doing a full weekend race plus hotel and that would jump to close to $450. Now try doing that every second weekend all summer long. I'd be happy to do six Sunday races this year.

Next closest track to me is Rimbey (NHRA). They only race 1/8 right now so even though I don't have an NHRA membership, running 1/8 mile, I can still run without any issues. 1/8 mile racing is really boring but it is a lot easier on parts.

Third option is Medicine Hat (NHRA 1/4 mile). I run too fast to race there without getting an NHRA membership/license etc.

IHRA is happy to allow racers to run down to 8.50 in the 1/4 mile with minimal requirements. NHRA screws the grassroots racers as soon as they hit 9.99.

heavy_chevy29

i was pretty bummed not hitting my 2014 goal of an 8 sec pass. came real close with a 9.05 @ 149 mph. car kept pulling the front tires up about a foot and a half to two feet in the air. i was only able to put 20 passes on the car. i did learn a lot about nitrous in those 20 passes. i think im only a degree or two away form a killer tune. so for 2015 ill be focusing more on keeping the front end down and sending the converter out to be more nitrous friendly. i doubt ill get out to much in 2015 mostly because im very focused on being self employed this year.

AlkyIROC

Oh I know that feeling. Last time I was at the track, I put the car right up on the back bumper twice before calling it a day. Front shocks were cranked up as tight as they would go and I did a 4-link adjustment for the second pass and it didn't help. Wheelie bars are on the car now and my front travel limiters have been shortened. Just need that track time to see if the changes work. I don't want to lower the IC to soften the hit as the tires dig in hard without tire shake but lowering and moving the IC forward would really reduce the sky high wheelies but may give me some wheel spin.

Last pass I made down the track. The rubbing sound you hear at the end is the fender that got pushed forward rubbing on the tire.

heavy_chevy29

hey alky, i feel you pain. in 2013 our local track 45 min from my house closed and it wasn't looking to good as far as a re open. i have 3 other tracks that are with 2 hrs away. the one track i wont go to. the other one i just haven't been to. the 3rd(atco) one is a great track with a great mix of cars going to it. i have to leave my house no later that 6 am on my only day off. as you said with the costs, diesel fuel, entry fees, tolls, fuel, nitrous, etc. a single day of racing is easily a $300 or more. then the ride home is normally about 3-4hrs cuz i have to sit in all the traffic of people coming home from the shore. thankfully the local track has since re opened. hopefully something will happen for you and you'll get a closer track.

skinny z

Never too old! I hope to race when I'm 70!


Yeah. I'm aware of that. I've raced at 600 feet BELOW sea level at my old home track however with the outrageous humidity and temps there, seeing density altitiude north of 3000 feet isn't uncommon. The best racing for me is in the fall. I anticipate having to make a few adjustments. Bumping my compression ratio being one of them. That'll be when I freshen the heads.
Good luck with your racing. It used to be 2 1/2 hours for me one way but then again, with a street car, it's a much simpler endeavor to hit the track for a day.
I'll be looking for you.

camaroracer21

iTrader: (1)

My goal for the 2015 season is to get the car out on the track and get some valuable data to use in evaluating future upgrades. I will be starting off with a mild 305 motor for 2015. Hope to begin building the 383 stroker towards the end of the year and have it ready for 2016.

daverr

iTrader: (1)

Make a pass

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

I think I started this thread concept in '09 or '10. Glad to see it's still driving some ambition.

My '15 plans are to run the Super Street class at Cecil SSCSO this year with my '13 Coyote Mustang. It will go 11.90 N/A without breaking anything and 11.30 at 125 testing the limits of the Clutch, Trans and Rear.

I'm also putting together a really nice Buick GN. I'm swapping it all over to a Built 4.8 LS with a Billet 75 Midframe Turbo from Turbonetics, a Holley Dominator EFI and a built TS 4L80E with a Billet 265mm Converter. So far I just need to get the mounts and drop everything in. Than I can build the Hot side and tie up all the loose ends.

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

Sickest Trans Am I have ever seen! ^^

project89

iTrader: (1)

i just wanna get the swap from twin turbos to a single turbo done , and get the car finished so i can enjoy it for the 2015 season instead of working on it for once

this year im making a bunch of changes
th400 i had nothing but issues with is out and ive got a th350 im building , picking up a huges tb/manual, ultrbell,case from anetheses , this will replace the th400 till i can afford to do a proper 4l80

the twin 57's are off and sold , going to a single t76 for the street and a single 88 for the track
^ this is almost done

switching to an a2w intercooler setup with meth injection for street use on low boost

get the darn cage finished

and last but not least get some friggen paint on the car damn things been in epoxy primer for almost 2 years now

car sits like this right now

project89

iTrader: (1)

manual brake kit ? or something u put together urself.
this is something thats on my list of things to do and not sure what way to go

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

I'm taking a few years off to help buddies get their programs running. I did tune the fastest car in the country running the Nitrous Outlet Stinger. I have another 3rd gen I'm helping with this year. Once that is done, I'll get ready for 2016.

During the year, I am doing some upgrades, more adjustability to the rear suspension, new pro gear, 2.5 in headers and a few more bars up front.

Then start on a new motor.

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

Run a 9 second ET with the 6 speed!

VAGOGTA

My Goal for 2015 is to get my car in the low 10's with my little 383 on all motor, so far a best of 10.53 @129 with 3900 DA, next compete in my local summit series and qualify again for the Pacific division 7 E.T Finals.

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

^ if you don't have relocation brackets you should get some.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Last year I hit a new personal best and got my goal in hand. a 11.70@116Mph. I was pretty happy.

I also came in as runner up in 1 sportsman race.

This year I want to be in the top 10 in sportsman at Milan. Its a hard goal for me but I really think I can get obtain it.

I believe I was in 24th or so at Milan this year. Not very good. But it was the first year with the new engine in the car.

I don't have any expectations for times. I will be slowing the car back down to the mid 12s like it was most of the past year. Consistency is my main goal.

project89

iTrader: (1)

blasphemy!!!!
make it faster and consitant

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Keep it off jackstands and just drive... For once lol

Just gonna fix the minor bugs and try to cut some weight and retune for good gas to see what power is in it. Deep 8's be nice if it hooks up

AlkyIROC

He needs something. The first thing I also saw was the excessive squat in the rear. If the back of the car is squatting, the diff is coming up. You want no squat and maybe a little bit of lift which will drive the tires down for better traction.

With the amount of lift the front end is getting, the car seems to have lots of power. Better suspension geometry in the rear and an adjustable shock to slow down the compression will make a big improvement.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Sure its squating? That could be ride height. My car sits near that low

daverr

iTrader: (1)

It's fabricated. Just a metal plate that goes on the firewall.not much involved.

Skinny Neb

iTrader: (2)

Goal 1- Make it 4 hours to the closest quarter mile track.
Goal 2- Make a pass.
Goal 3- Don't grenade the 10 bolt.
Goal 4- Run high 12s all motor.

That would satisfy me for this upcoming year.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Keep my junk together for 1 full yr
drive to the track 1hr away
run low 10s N/A (without breaking)
drive home. (yes I'm nuts)

Do the full power tour
Drive to the T/A nats and back again.

project89

iTrader: (1)

this seems to be the recurring theme between a bunch of us lol

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

2015 goals for me are pretty big honestly. with our first child almost here (any day now) and still getting settled in our new home, i'm surprised we've been able to do any racing at all. anyway, a quick outline of what i'd like to do:

-lose an additional 100lbs from the car (total with driver, that's about 35lbs out of the driver's seat, 65lbs off the car)
-work on 60' consistency, this car should wheelie pretty good once i get the shocks dialed in
-make 90% of the Pro Stick schedule
-win at minimum 1 round of every race i enter
-9.99 glory pass with six speed, then back it back down to 10.2 since i don't have enough cage.

AlkyIROC

I hope for that every race. I get the butterflies in the stomach as I roll into the waterbox in the first round. If I win that round, I'm all relaxed and don't really care if I lose in the second. It's just getting past that first round that I find the hardest.

VAGOGTA

I just added those on last decemeber, but have not had a chance to test due to the holidays. I also removed the 50/50's and installed a set of afco double adjustable, but I still have to dial them in. I also have a set of coils overs coming soon for the front!.

so far with the old set up the best 60's were 1.43 hopping to get in the 1.3's once I have everything dialed in.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

If i have lca's in bottom bracket hole, and car still doesnt lift rear but slightly squats, does that mean i need shock adjustment or even further lowered control arms?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

measure the angle of the lca in relation to the body. it should be zero or uphill no more than about 3* or so (for a starting point). there could be other things going on, but if lca's are uphill there should be no way for it to squat during initial acceleration.

STREETDEMON

1. make the car 60' better with correct tires
2. dial in the suspension
3. make an 11.99 or better pass
4. drive home with the a/c on! (tongue in cheek here, i always trailer to the track)

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ill push it at the end of the season again like i did last year. I know the trans and TC are on borrowed time with the HP im tying to push though it.

I need a whole new drive train set up to keep at the fast and consistant thing...... cant afford it just quite yet.

And to pull those 1.60 foot times, it can be hard to catch a good consistant lights. Spooling this thing up is definitly something that takes alot of practice.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

Are you running a long torque arm or is the car really low? Needs to be going downhill to the rear mounts as was mentioned above.
Also what kind of rear springs?

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

Oh and my goal is the same as last years. Get the car put back together. I made some progress the last week believe it or not. Lol

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

^pics or it didn't happen.

hwcoll95

iTrader: (6)

dyno brake in of new 511,find what motor will pull,make at least 6 saturdays,and run in the 5"s yes I only have 1/8 mile tracks

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Its lowered. 28" tire with not much space between that and the lip. Lcas i believe go down to the mounts. Eibach prokit progressive rate rear springs. Shocks tokico illumina set 4/5 stiff

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

^ you'll probably need to raise the rear of car or make new brackets to get that rear bar lower with more of an uphill angle. The lower the car, the further out the IC is, unless you have major adjustability on the rear end housing and are able to reel it in. With only 2 hole LCRLB, I found I needed 1-1.5 inches above the tire to get the car to lift.

If the care isn't lifting in the rear, you'll need to keep moving suspension points until it does. Shocks will only control the axle, the IC location will make the suspension lift or squat depending on where its located.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thats what i was thinking. I recall car lifting on the footbrake as i stall it up but launch it sets back down. Not super squat but def not lifting

Forgot to mention i have a long torque arm, xmember mounted

So thats one of my 2015 goals, get the suspension dialed in more

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

longitudinal location of IC is determined by the location of the torque arm mount as IC is defined on these cars is the intersection of the plane of the LCA and the vertical plane of the front torque arm mount perpendicular to the ground.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Not to hyjack the thread lol i have a 57/43 weight bias at 3750 lbs depending on gas in tank lol probly not helpin
So it seems raising ic is better for the launch but not good for cornering

If higher ic is needed this is why i originally thought lca brakcets didnt have enough mounting options or lower holes for cars with taller tire. Lca angle changes about its mount point which changes ic right?

Oh well thoughts for another thread

IMissMy86TA

To keep her as stock as I can and not race?

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

57/43 is fine for a radial prepped track, there are some x275 guys running that %. I just added the racecraft pro stock brackets to my housing for more adjustability, They were expensive, but honestly the only option out there without building your own.

My tq arm is shortened 9 inches, but stock location height running parallel to the sfc's

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

cut out the roll bar, removed the interior, and started hackin'. here is a crappy pic....

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

alot depends on how the power is applied to the rearend. if you are coming off the brake with a small amount of power and then ramping it in, you will need more mechanical leverage to notice some anti-squat. that would mean a shorter torque arm and/or more lca angle.

AlkyIROC

My car is still nose heavy but it's been a while since I scaled the car and know it's closer to 54/46. I'm thinking of adding weight to the nose to help keep the front end down. With a properly working suspension, nose heavy doesn't mean much.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

makin' room for some big tayres eh?!