Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I did when I swapped over.

9.96 lbs Power brake booster
3.122 lbs Master cyl & prop valve
Total 13.082 lbs

1.343 lb Strange master cyl and hardware
0.34 lbs TCI line lock
Total 1.683 lbs

Weight savings of 11.399 lbs

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

how do the brakes feel now? i like my power brakes but have been considering going to a strange master without a booster. i drove my honda last week with the booster disconnected and while the brakes had good feel, i didnt like how hard i was having to push the pedal.
right now i have a stock brake hydraulics with strange brakes all around and it stops great.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

You really can't get a good idea on how it will feel by just removing the booster.
When you go to manual brakes, to get the feel right you need to change the point where the pushrod mounts to brake pedal, it needs to be moved higher up the pedal arm.
Even on older factory cars that had an manual brakes and option for power brakes, the pedal arm would have 2 holes in it. Top hole for manual, bottom hole for power brakes.

In these 2 pictures you can see where the rod hooks from the factory and you can see where I drilled my new hole and hooked my new pushrod.

Now as to how mine does. I love it. It stops as good if not better than the stock power brakes. The pedal is alittle stiffer and does need to be pressed alittle harder but nothing major. It feels better than ANY stock manual brake car I have drove.. Best way I tell people on the pedal feel is... Rather than needing a 'toe' push to pedal to stop car, now it's a mid foot press.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

awesome... i know ed quay modifies the stock pedal, but figured it was nothing complicated. thanks for the pics, i will probably go ahead and do this.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Your welcome. Yeah as you see the pedal mods is nothing big. I looked everything up before ordering my parts, when I ordered the master cylinder from summit I bought one of their brand 3/8" rod ends. Then bought rest of hardware at my local ACE. (grade 8 bolt, fender washers, and lock nut to go through rod end and pedal)

skinny z

For what it's worth, my former fab shop (which I more or less manged) built a lot of custom chassis'.
In a manual brake system, the pedal ratio will be between 5:1 and 6:1 and a power system will be between 4:1 and 5:1.
That's how we would set up any given car. Plenty of street rod stuff and more drag cars than I care to count.
Like Night said, back in the day brake pedal arms would come with 2 holes. One for the power application and the other for manual.

357 Camaro

how many of you guys are running a return line from you regulater. Is this a good idea? ok to use the other fitting on the sump of the fuel cell to put the return line in, or should I use the top.


How long does the rune braided hose russel makes last?

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

I run a return line, and yes to the top of the tank. Helps to keep heat down a bit.

FWIW....If you are just started to plumb the car, use the black nylon braided hose instead of the SS braided....your fingers will thank you!

357 Camaro

I need little help agian.

i have been messing with my carb for week.i seem to have everything the best that I
can get it floats are right air/fuel seems right on a vacuume gauge its at i think the motor
likes now i may be wrong. adjustin ne higher or lower it jus seems not to like it. i have the accelaratees set right as soon as u push a tad on gas it does what its suppose to.

The thing is i can not get rid of this studder it has if u mash the gas. fast off the line it will studder and kinda fall flat for a second. but if u jus ease into it its fine. now im no carb professional never clained i was lol. does ne one have suggestions do i need bigger power valve jets ect.. it really only doea it on launch.

sorry if i seem stupid or dont know what im tallkin bout. i have learned all i can bout tunin this holly 4150 750 carb from this site and vids im tryin.

357 Camaro

Sorry bout double post im on phone i can see the edit.

I also know ita on the studder is on the primarry side it does it before the half trottle
before the secondary double pumps even kick in

agian sorry for double postin

quik88

give it a big pump shot. put a 50cc pump in it and see if that helps.

357 Camaro

Can you send me a link to the one u should order please so i know wat to look for.

its a 4779-9 holly 750 4150
Jus so you know i havnt changed ne internals still has standered 6.5 pv 71 primary jets
80 secondary jets 28 primary nozzel 31 secondary nozzel.

Thanks so much for ur replys




Never mind I found the pump I need. From what I read I need a spacer . NOw am I miss reading that? If it do need a spacer what are yall using. SaYS JUS 1/4 INCH ONE. =\

skinny z

Before you get too much further into your carb tuning, you might want to consider that a large number of "carb problems" are in fact ignition related.
Have you determined what your timing curve is? Initial setting, rate of advance and total timing will all have a huge effect on how the engine performs. I've been deep into this and adjusting my base/initial timing from somewhere around 12 degrees to more than 20 degrees (I currently run 30 degrees of initial timing but that has my vacuum advance factored in too) made a huge difference in the part throttle response as well as the reaction at the "hit" so to speak. With your specified 10.5:1 and a cam of your size, there's room for a healthy spark lead. You'd be surprised at the difference. (By the way, have you done a compression test?)
The flat spot you feel might easily be remedied with another 10 degrees of timing at idle. Of course you'll have to be careful of your total timing advance. Mods to the distributor total mechanical amount might be needed. After the timing adjustment (assuming of course that you might need one) you'll have to revisit your idle mixture and certainly the idle speed. Pay close attention the amount of the transfer slot that's exposed on the primary side throttle bores. You'll probably have to remove the carb to get a visual of what's involved. More than one carb tuner has suffered from the primaries being opend too far to achieve a decent idle speed. The result is the "notorious Holley flat spot" or words to that effect.
http://classicinlines.com/spark.asp
Post up your timing specs.

I can't comment on the need for a 50 cc pump shot. It's a rare occurence when that's really what the problem is and with your engine specs I would think you may be better off working your towards that point rather than jumping to it. Besides, with a double pumper (and I have little need for them in anything other than a dedicated drag car with a high stall converter or manual trans), going to a 50 cc accelerator pump (and two of them at that) will absolutely kill any fuel economy you might expect.

And what I'm surprised hasn't been posted is taking a look at the tuning sticky at the top of the carb section.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...ey-tuning.html
Sofa has a well thought out approach to getting your Holley into a reasonable state of tune. It could be refined somewhat with the addition of wide band O2 sensor (highly recommended) but it'll certainly get you pointed in the right direction especially if you're a novice to the carb scene.

357 Camaro

I got it fixed today seems was only 3/4 of turn off on the accel pump spring amazing the differeance that made. Im not getting a lot of vacuum with this build. Ill be doing some more tuning when I can get it out on the road a bit. Kinda hard where I live.


Ty very much for the help so far yall are amazing.

357 Camaro

Here is a massively stupid question..I never had a problem with the motor getting hot. I moved to a more populated area I guess you can say. I jus threw something 2.5 exhaust on it to keep it from annoying the neighbors. But since I have added it my motor gets hot fast and kinda steams out the breathers on the heads. I also noticed that the headers are getting extreamly hot. Can the exhaust be restrictive enough to cause the motor to get hot? I flushed the radiator electric pump seems to be pushing fine. It seems to flow good but when u fill it all the way up it isn't really flowinn trhough the top coils but flowing great in the bottom to the middle idk its been sitting 2 years I jus recently stated back at it. I have never let this car get over 210


I know I know that's a dumb question but I trust yall and I understand that yall know best. Most here are smarter then ne mechanic in this town haha.


Also I have no thermostat
31-19 be cool aftermarket rad
stock fan
miezier electric water pump

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

#1 Put a thermostat or restrictor in the system, you can create hot spots by moving the water to quickly, remember you have to cool down the water coming out of the engine, can't do alot of cooling if it isn't in the rad long enough.

#2 "Steam" out of the breathers is blowby...If this is a street driver, put a pvc system in.

#3 Headers will get hot, what is your definition of extremely?? And yes, mufflers are somewhat restrictive and cause the flow of exhaust gases to somewhat slow, which in turn generates more heat soak in the upstream exhaust system.

#4 Maybe it has been answered, but what is your base timing, and what kind of timing curve do you have?

357 Camaro

What temp stat should i get 160, 180?

This is not a street car i was jus wonderin why its doin it have never before till i put that exhaust on it . it did sit for 2 year with no start becausr my son was born was hard to get time to messs with
..
When i say hot i mean extreamly like a clogged up cat converter hot. i think its got way to much back pressure im gpnna take it off i may buy long tubes

The initial timin is 8 i do believe i have a timin light i havnt looked in while i tightened the distit might have moves ill chexck agian it starts and runs well

ty so much for replyin to my stupid questionsi

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

160 should be fine.

With it setting for 2 years, the rings could have taken a bet of a set

I would like to see ~16 for base (all in by 3K). That timing seems a bit slow to me, and can lead to high EGT's.

357 Camaro

Thank you so much im goin to time it there see how it likes it

skinny z

Exactly. Too little spark advance at idle will put a lot of heat into the exhaust. While it's a bit of a generalization, most SBCs can tolerate a lot of base timing. 16 is a start. I run 30 degrees once you factor in my full manifold vacuum advance. Base timing 16 degrees. Vacuum advance 14 degrees. Originally I was only running 16 degrees base timing and ported manifold vacuum so there was no vacuum advance at idle. Once I made the switch, my engine idle temps went from approaching to 195 to less than 165 (with a 160 stat).

357 Camaro

everything is going great now took off the exhaust that was the main problem it was to small I was jus gonna quiet it down but wasn't big enough haha. The car doesn't go over 165 while jus sitting and bout 185 drivin.


Open headers atm. Got the cops called ON me yesterday. The old woman down the road is a *** hole. The funny thing is the cops told her that as long as I wasn't running it past dark they don't see a problem. So now she hates me haha.


Got some stuff ordered and coming from jegs. Im taking it to the shop 2morrrow to have the 8 point roll cage welded in. Im hoping to run 11.5 with this combo and if not now I will deffinatly in the future.


Jus wanted to let yall know thanks so much for the help so far the site is amazing.

357 Camaro

Been a while since I posted in this thread I have been trying to wait till I went to the track.


I went and might I add us 431 has a complete shitty track. They were callin for rain but only a 30% chance. I figured id take her down there and test my luck with the weather.


I got there unloaded the car got it fired up and ran for a bit. For some reason the starter pinion gear isn't retractin back into the starter all the way causing it to make a nasty noise. It jus started happening. After min or 2 its would go away a bit. Gonna replace it I guess. Got the car on the scale 3176 with me in it


That was the start of my day I was thinking this is not gonna be my day. This track is horrible its jus a test track might I add, But either way its bad prep wasn't great and cars were spinning off line. Ne ways my first pass was the first time with my set up. I figured id jus see what it would do if I spin id join the rest of the cars lol.


I stalled it to around 3500 and ofcourse on green like most the cars I spun on take off. It took off like crazy tho I was very suprised


60'-2.1
1/8 mile- 7.86
mph-96.2


I started to rain like crazy before I could make another pass I sat around bout a hour and it wasn't letting up and a lot of people were loading up so I did to. It was a fun day ne way. I don't think im going back to that track tho. Im gonna try and go to Huntsville drag next time.


I figured since a lot of you guys were a big help I would post it up. Not what I expected the track to be they really need to prep it better, But then again most people jus go to Huntsville drag.

skinny z

That's light. What have to done in the way of weight reduction? I'm at 3650 with me in it (I'm 200 lbs). Keep in mind that I'm fully a street car first. I've even added DynaMat to help control the noise levels.

Nice converter...I should get one too. Max foot brake for me is about 2000 rpm although it appears to flash closer to 4000.

Not bad. Dial in that 60' and that thing will fly.
Well done.

357 Camaro

I have got rid of jus about everything you can get rid of cut out a bunch of stuff. Has tubular a arms small 5 gal. fuel cell. all the crash stuff is gone alum heads intake electric water pump no interior glass lift off hood ect...


As for the converter I cant thank you guys enough for the advice on it. ptc built me one and I love it.


Yea the track was really bad the next run I was actually gonna stall at 3000 see if It would jus help me not spin as much but the rain wasn't gonna stop. I have mt 28/10.5 slicks in back. I hope I can get the 60 in the 1.6-1.8. It may grenade the 10 bolt who knows.


The mph is good for 7.0-7.2 in the 1/8. Low 11's in the 1/4. The only decent track that is close is Huntsville. That's where all the big boys from around here run. I went few weeks after it open this year. Murder nova and the guy with the s-10 off of street out laws were there. Lots of very nice cars makes mine look like sht haha.




Like you tho idk why I posted jus making 1 run, but I jus figured id share =\

Ben ferrell

my name is ben and I am bulding 85 Camaro it is a ladder bar car and it has AJE Anthony jones tube front end with rack steering in need some help to locate battery boxes fuel cell and on and off switch and battery charge lugs. does anyone have pictures that I ccould see please held.THANKS
my cell phone 210-323-1139 or e-mail ben@missiongolfcars.com

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

My batteries are located in the very back (2 group 24's).

357 Camaro

Don't have a pic atm but I put the fuel cell in the hole in the hatch I cut a hole out for the sump on the fuel cell so it sits flat. Then I sealed it off from the rest of the car made a door. I jus open the door and put gas in I'm also goin to relocate the battery to the back to. Put my switch in same spot kwik has his.

357 Camaro

So a quick question for u pro's.


I said before my starter was messing up. I got back out to the track this past weekend. I was jus wondering what you guys take on the problem is. This is what happen Months ago I noticed that the flex plate had few teeth missing like 2. So I baught a flex plate.
153-Tooth
Internally Balanced
SFI 29.1 Approved
2-Piece Rear Main
Pretty much same that was on it before jus better quality. I have A proform mini tq starter.


Now my problem is after I switched the flex plate It started making this noise when I took it to the track the time before last. If you jus bump the ignition it turns over fine. But if you have to turn the motor over a few times. The motor turns over and then you get this banging noise. Now I know that I got new flex plate need to shim it right.
I spent hours upon hours trying every diff ways. Getting the correct gaps. between the pinion gear and starter and the gap with the pinion gear pulled out in the flex plate I read .030 I use the paper clip. It does it no matter how I do it. I did notice that some times the gear would actually get stuck in the plate. I noticed the pinion gear was lil worn so I baught a replacement cleaned it out lubed it up, Same thing is this a bendix problem or maybe the solenoid? Kinda jus wondering if need be ill jus buy another but im curious.

Other then that the car is performing very very well Thanks to you guys.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

solid MPH for something that was seemingly slapped together. good job

357 Camaro

Thanks Matt I really want to get vids of it like you do. Do you have ne idea bout the starter buyin a New one is no problem jus curious.

As for the car it runs great for what it is. The is few things I need to attend to I was able to get in 3 passes this past weekend. 1 pass I spun. 2 passes it hooked