ziggy89

Well car is a 91 bird 383 stroker xe274h-10 can 9.3:1 compression performer rpm manifold 770 quick fuel carb. Built 700r4 2800rpm stall 9inch with 4.11 gears and a Detroit locker. I run 275/60/15 mickey Thompson et street radials so I hook good. I'll post a pick of my slip just wondering what more it would take to run high 11s.
I'm the car on the right of the slip

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Looks like you are pretty close, get the 60' time down a little and you are there. I would look at changing the torque converter to something in the 3600-4000 range. I've had good luck with FTI, Ultimate Converter Concepts, Edge, Yank...any good torque converter builder can set you up with something custom built for your application that will get your 60' time down and keep the engine in its power band all the way down the track.

Assuming the suspension is mostly stock, 90/10 struts and a set of moroso trick springs would be a good purchase too.

Weight reduction would help too if you can get rid of anything you don't need in the car.

ziggy89

Yeah I was thinking about a converterbin the 3500 range. I've got koni adjustable shocks and struts with spohn tubular control arms panhard bar and torque arm.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

needs more converter, 38-4000 in my opinion.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

You need to get it out of the hole.

If you're hooking and running a 1.8 60' then you need to get that down. Likely more/better converter as a few people have suggested and possibly tune. Getting it down to a 1.7 will get you into the ll's, a car capable of that ET and mph should be able to run at least an 1.5-1.6 60, which should get you down to around 11.5.

ziggy89

So we all have mostly the same thought. More converter anywhere from 3500-4k. How does a converter that size driven on the street? It is a 700r4 with lockup. I'd like to keep drivability close to how it is. Street manners now are about as good as my daily.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

You will loose a little bit of street manners but nothing major. It will take a little more throttle to get it moving and fuel mileage will suffer. Make sure you have a good trans cooler and you won't have any issues. Go with something in the 3600 range if you are worried about street manners, if not 3800-4000 will get you a better E.T.

no green

3.06x4.11=12.58... seems like a lot of SLR for that, you sure your hooking?

a 3.50-3.73 gear might be better, especially if you step up to a harder hitting converter.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i ran a 3600 stall, 4l60e (same first gear) and a 4.56 and could hook on ice. (would go bottom 1.5x with big wheelies, lol) i think he'll be OK. it may not be 100% ideal, but you still need to gear for proper RPM through the traps, and make the 60' work through suspension tuning.

ziggy89

SLR?


I know I hook good. My friends say I don't spin on the street so it doesn't at the track im sure. everything is spohn in the back with adjustable shocks. depending on what it mile an hours if I swap converters and get my 60' down I very may well have to switch to a 3.73 gear.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Higher quality converters tend to be more streetable, but for the most part, if retain lockup its fine once you get moving. If it was me i'd be shooting for something around 4000rpm, but would probably run whatever I got the best deal on over 3600rpm... (I wouldn't run a cheap converter if you care about street manners)

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i wouldn't run a cheap converter if you cared about how it performed either. you get what you pay for in converters.

ziggy89

based on what I read I planed on running a yank or vigilante.


cheap and fast don't go together in my book. I like **** to last.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i've never ran a yank, but have read lots of success stories. i HAVE ran a vigilante (Precision Industries). I was less than impressed with their customer service. I had a specific set of questions for them when i was sending the converter in to get restalled/rebuilt and they were uninformative, and irritable about the questions i had. then the converter had north of 18% slippage. i sold it shortly after. food for thought.

ziggy89

good to know

no green

SLR is starting line ratio. You take the first gear in the transmission (3.06 for a 700R4), multiply by the rear end gear (4.11).

3.06x4.11=12.58

From my experience, I like 9 to 11 for tires ~28" & stock suspension. My car is 2.48x4.11=10.19. Below 9 will kill the hit at the tire, above 11 will hit the tire harder, either blowing the tires off or standing on the bumper (as matt confirms). And like Matt said, if you have the suspension right, you'll hook, but be looking at the moon when you do. it's also true you need to gear for mph, but since this is a street car, and using that transmission, you'll need to split the difference and compromise.

Go with the converter your comfortable with, but unless that 700 is prepped right, it's not worth buying a mega dolor converter for it.

I swapped from a freakshow/footbrake 350 to an fti/rossler 400, & different ignition box over the winter, and went from a consistent 12.00 to an 11.75 on the first pass this year (n/a).

ziggy89

transmission is set up good. car has been known to break the tires loose on the 1-2 shift after dead hook launch if that says anything and the car is consistent four passes between 12.16-12.18 on sunday. so I think the transmission is fine.

no green

I think the right converter will get you there. be prepared to adjust the suspension, though.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

does the car have lca relocation brackets on it to address the rear lca angle? I am trying to figure out why you're spinning on the 1-2 shift. it shouldn't spin. how old are the tires? what psi are you running?

no green

If I had to venture a guess... he's "dead hooking" because that converter is killing the hit, and when it goes from 3.06-1.63 it shocks the tires and breaks them loose. My dad's street rod truck is the exact same way, similar motor and converter with a 700... That's why I say to be prepared to change the suspension with a better converter, I'd bet he'll start knocking the tires off with a decent converter.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

hadn't thought of that. makes total sense too.

ziggy89

I used to run nt555rs which is when I had the spin on the 1-2 shift. Since switched to mickeys and problems is gone. Tranny shifts super hard always has.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

ok

ziggy89

Another thing for thought if I do get a larger converter close tongue 4k range what is everybodys thought on using a 2 step hooked up to the brake switch?

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

What brand converter is your 2800? 9.5" or 12".


Leave the 4.11 gears in it for sure. Not only will they ET better than 3.73's in your setup, they will make a looser converter more driveable.
Depending on your answers to the questions above, I'm inclined to say a Yank SS3600 will put your 60's in the high 1.5x / low 1.6x range, and it is the most driveable 3600 converter you will find.
With the stock LT1 in the Impala, 3900 lbs, 4.10 gears, 26" tires, the SS3600 was giving me low 1.6x 60's consistently. You should be able to do better than that with more power and less weight.

ziggy89

Honestlyni can't tell you the brand of the converter my tranny guy recommended it to me said henused them in a lot of rebuilds. It wasnt a name I was familiar with at the time (6 years ago) but it is bigger. 11 or 12 inches.
The problem with the 4.11s is if I gain much more mph I'm going to be in my rev limiter at the traps.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

for some reason, i've found that transmission guys are not the guys to spec a converter, lol. call a couple of companies, explain the combo and exactly what you want it to do, not only on the track, but also on the street, and they can make a proper recommendation. be prepared for $6-800 for a proper converter.

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely true. Most of them are mechanics, and mechanics only. Unless they race, they have no experience or idea of what a truly good converter can do.
ziggy, it sounds like you have a rebuilt/re-stalled stock 12" converter. That would explain the weak 60' and also the harsh 1-2 shift. The lower inertia of a ~9.5" TC is a LOT easier on the trans and driveline.
~2400 stall is about the limit for efficiency in a 12" TC. Just going to a 2800 9.5" would be a significant improvement. But for your combo, go right to the Yank SS3600; you'll be a happy camper.
I've run lots of brands of converters, and for most of the vehicles Yank has done the job better than any other. Converter efficiency, driveability, and their support / getting it right for the application; they're the best.

ziggy89

he was a racer and a friend of mine from college but haven't really talked to him since. it was an inexpensive converter. it worked great when I built the motor the first time. if I would have known how well the motor was going to run after the rebuild last spring with new heads and open long tubes (only changes) I would have spent then 6-800 bucks on a new converter then.

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

ziggy, your sig:
"Its not what you buy its what you build"


While that holds true with many things about an engine or trans build, it couldn't be any farther off the mark when it comes to torque converters.
You do get what you pay for.
I know of one budget 9.5" TC (~$550 Street Edge) that would get you the result you're after, but durability-wise and efficiency-wise, it doesn't compare to the ~$800 Yank.

ziggy89

well yeah lol. Its like building a motor I can put one together and make it last and make good power. but its not like I have the ability to machine the rods or pistons etc. etc. and your right you do get what you pay for, im not a broke college student anymore im more then happy to spend the money on good parts. that's why my rebuild last year went from dart iron eagle blem heads with I beam rods and hyper pistons to afr heads h beams and forged pistons. I might have gotten carried away with a rebuild lol.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

funny how that works out, eh? there ain't no poor like college-poor, and when you're in college, you feel like it's going to be that way forever, lol!

no green

There's drag racer poor... same Raman noodle diet, but a lot less reading

ziggy89

and that is why at this point in my life I don't have a dedicated drag car.

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

I have a yank ss3600 with 3.73 gears and it is very streetable. I've had a best 60ft of 1.58 on motor depending on track prep with old 26x11.5x16 et streets.

When I ran my first 11.99, it was an 11.98 at 111.98 mph with a 1.65 60ft.

You have the mph, just need to get the 60 down a tenth.

357 Camaro

I listened to these guys and went with a ptc 10 inch 4500 stall was a good move. The converter is great. PTC was amazing customer service I told them what I had they made one that best fight my combo.


10 inch start at 450
9.5 start at 550


Cant beat the price for a great converter. Listening to what these guys say and not a *mechanic* has put me on the right track for wat I want. I only wish I knew bout this site years ago.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

^we have many success stories like that, myself included we definitely take pride in getting folks going in the right direction.

ziggy89

well motor is coming out for an issue. so I ordered a converter yank ss 3600 built for my car. probably going to try the vic jr I have on the shelf too. 11.99 here I come.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

How many miles did you have on the hyperutetic pistons? were they in good shape still? I have similar set up and knowing that this year is off to a bad start for completing my build, Ive been thinking about going through the motor to up grade. what hp does the motor have? Lets see that stroker hit 11.5!!! Good luck man!

ziggy89

I had about 6000 miles on my hyper pistons they were speed pros. I rebuilt the motor last spring because of a bent wrist pin after the motor hydro locked. rain got in the cowl and down the carb bent the wrist pin with starter torque. anyway no its my opinion the pistons were NOT in good shape the piston with the bent wrist pin was really bad but they all showed where the keeper was beating the piston pretty bad. I think eventually a keeper would have broke and I would have had a wrist pin try to come out. motor has weisco forged pistons now and bottom end still looks great. cam and distributer on the other hand not so good.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I think you will be happy with your purchase, good choice!

357 Camaro

Good choice on the stall. You will also like the vic jr intake. Wats the lift on the xe274 cam? Im guessing about 490? Wat heads are u running?


Im jus wondering a bit bout ur combo. Comparing a bit to mine.

ziggy89

.490/.490 lift. I'm running AFR 195cc eliminator heads.

357 Camaro

When are you planning on going back to the track for another test run with the new stall and intake? Should be no reason u wont be in the 11's. My setup is in my sig or should be I will be going n 2 weeks but our track is only 1/8 mile.

ziggy89

If all things go as planned should be there in about three weeks. Should have parts for assembly by this weekend then wait a couple weeks cause I only get every other weekend off.

ziggy89

anybody that's ordered from yank. how longs it taken to get your converter.

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

usually a week, as they are in Nevada. if they have to make your convertor then I don't know. they should have ss3600's in stock and ready to ship though

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

I've always gotten converters between 5 and 10 business days from Yank. In all cases, they had to build mine.

ziggy89

yeah he said he builds all of them. said he had to build mine any way. this was 10 business days ago.

ziggy89

finally got the converter in and some drive time on it. actually drives pretty nice. cant wait to try a wide open throttle launch but have to finish this "break in " period first