fbodyfreakls1

In the planning stages of my build and looking for thoughts and opinions from others. looking to run tens with this build all motor no power adders. that being said ill list my build plan thus far. basic build list of course, just a rough idea of what the car will be.

Car:
84 z28 coupe

Chassis:
6 point cage
all spohn mild steel tubular suspension and bracing, front and back, top to bottom.
10 bolt rear with summit racing 3:73. upgraded axles. detroit locker. fully welded center section to axle tubes. supported/braced center section.
qa1 adjustible coil overs front and rear.
will be running thicker sway bars.

Body/Interior:
Stock body and smc hood.
Full weight damn near minus spare tire jack assy., back seat and sound detioning. will have power windows and locks with air conditioning.

Engine/Trans:
5.3 lm7 iron block.
Stock bore and stroke.
Stock crank with polished counter weights, crossdrilled, chamfered and "race" ballanced.
eagle h beams ballance checked and weight matched.
Speed pro hyper flat tops with dfl skirt coating and pistion face heat coating. might run forged pistions with same coatings, on the fence.
check that tdc is at deck hight or above to maximize compression and quench.
stock ported/polished 856 heads with over sized stainless valves and ti hardwear. comp bee hive springs. gmpp world cup cam, 239/251 duration @.50 and .570 lift with 106* lsa.
victor jr. intake port matched to heads and fully polished. Msd ignition set up.
quick fuel 850cfm or bigger if needed mechanical secondary carb.
Hawks third gen "budget" swap long tubes with 3in collector and full 3in true duals with dynomax welded ultra flos. pipes ran under axle out the back.
built d&d or gforce t5 trans with spec clutch set up and stock weight flywheel. mated to a aluminum drive shaft.

i hope to get some good feed back and insight. Hopefully im in the ball park of tens with a car of this caliber. if i need to make the car lose weight ill do what i can. aluminum bumper bars are always a option along with meny other goodies.

ill be running 8.5 slicks at track with skinnys up front. forged aluminum wheels to keep down on unsprung rotational weight along with the lightest brake set up i can run that will hold up to street abuse. was thinking about the wilwood drag disk brake set up front and rear but not sure how solid slotted rotors will do on street. Any input on that would be nice as well. hoping for some good feed back on this. thanks for reading!

fbodyfreakls1

im not looking for peoples build set ups or a how too here guys, im just looking for advice from some one who has or does run 10's. I just want to know if im in the ball park or if im way off. ill go boost or n2o if need be and ill go more aggressive on engine as well. also as a add on I might go with a d44 c4 vette irs over building the 10 bolt or buying a 12 bolt set up. ill come out ahead cheaper and have a nicer driving car on the street. like I said in the planning stages here, thank everyone.

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

Just jump straight to a bolt in 9" unit and be done with it.....

FYI....stock weight with you in it should be 3500-3700 pounds, you are going to need at least 550 HP

fbodyfreakls1

I know a 9" would be my best bet but unless I find a used set up, when the time comes, for 1500 or less then ill pry stay a different route weather its the ten bolt or a d44 c4 irs set up. new 9" and 12 bolt set ups are around 2,000 plus and im trying, key word there lol to get this car done in 5 years. the c4 set up requires a lot of fab but my time is free and I can make it happen so no worries there. im trying to aim for 650ish at the crank that way I know im good power wise and just need to make the rest of the car work. hopefully I get there with my build and don't end up needing to tear the engine back down or add any power adders.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

5 years... a lot can happen/change in 5 years..

I think with that motor it will get you there.

fbodyfreakls1

5 years is me being realistic. var needs a full restore as well as everything else. dont want to disipoint my self setting to short of a time line. Have a baby due jan 1st 2016 as well so im sure that will slow me down a bit as well as not making a whole lot of money.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Oh i hear ya man. I have along term investment myself.... thats why I said that. Congrats on the baby. Just found out recently eh?

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Everything looks pretty good but the rear end and the weight. Full weight car plus the roll bar and aftermarket suspension = heavy car

With all the upgrades made for it, the 10 bolt will not live to see 10's with slicks.

I broke 2 upgraded 10 bolts running low to mid 11's with drag radials.

If you shop around you can do a ford 9" for under $2,000. I think I have about $1900 in mine completed with brakes, sway bar, etc.

I bought the moser housing/axle package, then bought a rebuilt third member off ebay from a custom dif shop. It was a ford iron case, used nascar take out Detroit locker, new motive 3.89 gears, new timkin bearings, etc for $735 shipped. I used second gen F body drum brakes, enlarged the holes in stock used second gen backing plates, new wheel cylinders for second gen, new shoes for a second gen, cut my brake lines and dropped SAE fitting on and re flared them, ES sway bar end links, and mounts, 3" exhaust clamps to bolt the sway bar mounts to rear axle tubes.

AlkyIROC

You're already wanting it invest a bunch of money into the 10 bolt. It's wasted money that can be put towards a 12 bolt or 9". When the 10 bolt breaks, you'll be spending more money for an upgrade which you can do right now.

fbodyfreakls1

Found out at 6 weeks so im very excited. actuly went and had a ultra sound last tuesday and got to see the baby move, was very exciting! I have no issue doing whats needed to get the cars weight down. i for sure need heat, a radio and a full looking interior. i would like to keep back seat if i could by building the bar around it and using a low mounted harness bar. would be nice to take the whole family out to car shows in it. i would like air but im starting to reconsider keeping it. i like the idea of keeping the ten bolt for simplicity but i do not like waisting money so at this point reality is sinking in that it would be a huge waist of my time and money. i like the idea of the irs but when its time to pull the trigger ill shop for a 12 bolt or 9" before i buy a c4 set up. Wanting to keep the back seat makes a 12 bolt or 9" look even better as well. Ive also decided to stick with hyper pistons for clearance reasions. hopefully in the next week or two ill get the engine off my shed floor and on the stand so i can bring it to my work and play with it after hours and on my lunch break. then ill start a build thread

fbodyfreakls1

what does everybody think of the 9 bolt diff in a high power application? I have one and if it will hold up I could use it, although I would have to source a different gear set as this one has a 2:77 gear and I want to be some where around 3:73.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

As about as bad as the 10 bolt. The 9 bolt is alittle stronger but not enough to live a happy life in the 10 second range with sticky tires. No even 11's with sticky tires.

There is NO good factory options for a strong rear end for these cars. Case closed.

I wish someone had been as blunt with me years ago as I am with you now. Go ford 9", chevy 12 bolt, or dana 60 and enjoy the extra cash in your pocket from not making a bad mistake and having to buy 2 rear ends.

I was a fool and thought upgrading the 10 bolt would work into the 11's. I spent around $1,000 for the power trax locker, yukon axles, timkin bearings, seals, gears, TA alum support gridle cover... Just to have the thing break on me when I started hooking.

Swapped useable parts over into a junkyard rear end, and went at it again, just to have it break..

Then went with the ford 9" and couldn't be happier... Like I said I have about $1900 in mine... I put $1,000 or so into the 10 bolt that was just wasted. If I had just took that $1,000 and saved up another $900 I could have went with the ford 9" from the get go. Not wasted the money, not have a broke car twice, and the last time it sat for over a year until I could come up with the money for the 9"

fbodyfreakls1

thank you for being so straight forward. I guess once body work is all done and I can set the car on jacks for mock up ill sell then ten and 9 bolt together and use that money to help fund a 12 bolt swap or dana 60. this was the kinda replies I was hoping for from everyone thank you guys!!

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

Keep a look out on the classified sections you can occasionally find someone who has abandoned a project car and pick up a rear end for under 1500.

Shortly after I finished mine a found a complete roller with 9" and tubular front end for like 2500....not that there are a lot of those out there, but keep your eyes open and a few dollars hidden away for such a chance to arise.

Wolfster14

You will be very happy you did, there are certain things you should not skimp on with a race car and the rear end is one of them. It could not only cost you more in the long run doing it cheap, it could also cause serious damage to the car, or God forbid serious damage to you if it caused you to wreck.


Remember your a Dad. Congrats, and have fun with your build.

fbodyfreakls1

thank you Wolfster14, that's the plan is to look for used 12 bolt or 9" set up when im ready but if not I just saw earlier that pa racing sells a 9" housing with center section for less than $700, then its just all the guts etc. so that doesn't seem too bad at the moment.

Wolfster14

Moser makes some pretty nice kits as well and will save you money buying as a whole instead of a piece here and there . That's what I did this time and was really impressed with the way it all went together.
The best tool you have and the one that will save you the most time and aggravation is this forum.
I cant tell you how many hours I spent going through old threads building my car. This site is priceless . Hats of to all who take the time to do this..

fbodyfreakls1

I agree with you, I've built a couple third gens but never like this one will be so I been reading my *** off. this place is very priceless.

AlkyIROC

There is a wealth of information on TGO however some people are dead set in their decisions. They ask for advice then completely ignore it. We do know what works and what doesn't and even though it may not be cost effective, some decisions are well worth it in the long run such as your diff.

You can still make your own decision to run a 10 bolt and may be happy with it for years but we all know that it will eventually fail and the money invested in it is wasted. To save you the extra expense down the road, we recommend buying something that will be a little more than what you want to spend but you'll only have to spend it once.

If I look at how much I spent on my race car over all the years, it would have been a lot cheaper to build or buy a tube chassis car.

fbodyfreakls1

I agree that too many do not take good advice, I will not waist any money on the ten or nine bolt as I will sell both to fund another axle. be it a 9" or a 12bolt. I don't have any interest in a tube chassis car, this car will see a lot of street use when its done. I want it to be comfortable when I drove it and not be surrounded by roll bar lol if there isn't snow on the ground ill pry drive this car any day over the rest of mine and my soon to be wife's cars or trucks, although her 600hp duramax is fun to drive haha

rb85TA

I know I'm late to the party, but hopefully not too late. I would never, NEVER, even consider a hyperuetec piston for any build over 500hp! Again, the money spent now, will be less than the rebuild or even worse... the replacement of the entire engine. JMHO, GOOD LUCK

fbodyfreakls1

You infact are not to late to the party, some things have changed, like the add of a tvs1900 blower and forged pistons. still building engine and in the process of getting ready to build a garage to really get this in to high gear. Thanks for the input

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i would leave the shortblock stock... lol put an awesome topend setup on there, good rod bolts, and spend the rest on the car. the car is more important than the power when you are trying to go fast. thats what your mindset should be.

rb85TA

Hey DIGGLER, you're right. ... if you can't plant the power you'll go nowhere fast
But, with the right setup. .... more power to ground will be faster.

fbodyfreakls1

the plan as of now is to bore to 3.905 and add the blower. same cam ported 856s etc. im going to be running e85 as well, leaving the stock pulley on the blower to start till the suspension is tuned in and then im going to pulley down and go for broke. ill be running a wet shot too, part of the reason for the forged pistons. i know the crank is good for the power long term so im just adding insurance with the rods. i like to keep my oil in the block lol

rb85TA

Sounds good, keep moving forward. ...can't wait to hear how it work's out.