86 iroc build
06-06-2015, 11:02 PM
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86 iroc build
Hello every one im building a 86 iroc camaro and i decided to drop out the old 305 and put a chevy 350 its bored out .06 and the displacement is 360 its got forged pistons a lunati cam that reaches the power band at 2650 rpm and harland sharp roller rockers 1:6 ratio with aluminum dart heads i got a proffesionals preformance hurrican polished intake and i dont know what kind of carborator would be best for it i also got shorty headers and i got a .477 lift intake and a .507 exhaust .225 duratation intake with .235 duratation exaust 112 degree lobe seporation 4.060 bore 3.48 stroke .014 piston to deck 72 cc combustion chamber intake intake valve size 2.020 exaust valve size 1.60 realt look ing for some good guidance this is my first engine build please help
06-08-2015, 10:15 AM
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: Alky 360
Transmission: TH400, Freakshow 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.71
Re: 86 iroc build
Lots of good people on here with good knowledge.
#1 What are your goals?
#2 What transmission?
#3 What rear end?
#4 What does the car weigh?
Once you can give more insight there are plenty of people here that can point you in the right direction.
#1 What are your goals?
#2 What transmission?
#3 What rear end?
#4 What does the car weigh?
Once you can give more insight there are plenty of people here that can point you in the right direction.
06-08-2015, 04:19 PM
#3
Re: 86 iroc build
With what you listed/ 10 cc pistons i got around 9:1 C/R. Go to, https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html and play around with that. Why are you going forged? No need. Keith black or speed pro hyperutetic will be just fine and you wont have to deal with piston slap. Also boring a 350 .060 is really pushing the cylinder wall thickness to the max. IMO I wont go anymore than .030. Maybe .040 but def not .060. those forged pistons will pound right through the cylinder wall. Remember, hypertutic pistons need .001-.002 cylinder to wall clearances where as a forged needs .006-.0075. Hypertuetic pistons are ideal for high performance street engines and some race engines.
Remember, anyone can slap a engine together. I would do a bunch of research and get a solid foundation on what YOU want and go from there. Get some books and read read read. get some more and read some more. Again, I would stay away from forged pistons unless the motor calls for them. A cast crank is good up to 450-500 hp. There has been plenty of engines that are 500 hp on a 2 bolt main. Even a std rod is good to 450-500 if its been shot peened/magna fluxed/ARP bolts, granted your rpms are under 6000. (All this is debatable from engine builder to builder.) IMHO it will be just fine. However you are limiting the short block to those numbers. 500hp is a lot for a street engine. Then tran/driveline/rearend and many other things fall into place that all cost $$$$.
So to sum this up, I would do a bunch of research. Find out exactly what you want from this engine, street/strip/DD? Then once you have that figured that part out then you will have a much better understanding of how engine components work together. (not saying you dont)
-Dan
Remember, anyone can slap a engine together. I would do a bunch of research and get a solid foundation on what YOU want and go from there. Get some books and read read read. get some more and read some more. Again, I would stay away from forged pistons unless the motor calls for them. A cast crank is good up to 450-500 hp. There has been plenty of engines that are 500 hp on a 2 bolt main. Even a std rod is good to 450-500 if its been shot peened/magna fluxed/ARP bolts, granted your rpms are under 6000. (All this is debatable from engine builder to builder.) IMHO it will be just fine. However you are limiting the short block to those numbers. 500hp is a lot for a street engine. Then tran/driveline/rearend and many other things fall into place that all cost $$$$.
So to sum this up, I would do a bunch of research. Find out exactly what you want from this engine, street/strip/DD? Then once you have that figured that part out then you will have a much better understanding of how engine components work together. (not saying you dont)
-Dan
07-01-2015, 12:20 PM
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Re: 86 iroc build
With what you listed/ 10 cc pistons i got around 9:1 C/R. Go to, https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html and play around with that. Why are you going forged? No need. Keith black or speed pro hyperutetic will be just fine and you wont have to deal with piston slap. Also boring a 350 .060 is really pushing the cylinder wall thickness to the max. IMO I wont go anymore than .030. Maybe .040 but def not .060. those forged pistons will pound right through the cylinder wall. Remember, hypertutic pistons need .001-.002 cylinder to wall clearances where as a forged needs .006-.0075. Hypertuetic pistons are ideal for high performance street engines and some race engines.
Remember, anyone can slap a engine together. I would do a bunch of research and get a solid foundation on what YOU want and go from there. Get some books and read read read. get some more and read some more. Again, I would stay away from forged pistons unless the motor calls for them. A cast crank is good up to 450-500 hp. There has been plenty of engines that are 500 hp on a 2 bolt main. Even a std rod is good to 450-500 if its been shot peened/magna fluxed/ARP bolts, granted your rpms are under 6000. (All this is debatable from engine builder to builder.) IMHO it will be just fine. However you are limiting the short block to those numbers. 500hp is a lot for a street engine. Then tran/driveline/rearend and many other things fall into place that all cost $$$$.
So to sum this up, I would do a bunch of research. Find out exactly what you want from this engine, street/strip/DD? Then once you have that figured that part out then you will have a much better understanding of how engine components work together. (not saying you dont)
-Dan
Remember, anyone can slap a engine together. I would do a bunch of research and get a solid foundation on what YOU want and go from there. Get some books and read read read. get some more and read some more. Again, I would stay away from forged pistons unless the motor calls for them. A cast crank is good up to 450-500 hp. There has been plenty of engines that are 500 hp on a 2 bolt main. Even a std rod is good to 450-500 if its been shot peened/magna fluxed/ARP bolts, granted your rpms are under 6000. (All this is debatable from engine builder to builder.) IMHO it will be just fine. However you are limiting the short block to those numbers. 500hp is a lot for a street engine. Then tran/driveline/rearend and many other things fall into place that all cost $$$$.
So to sum this up, I would do a bunch of research. Find out exactly what you want from this engine, street/strip/DD? Then once you have that figured that part out then you will have a much better understanding of how engine components work together. (not saying you dont)
-Dan
07-01-2015, 12:45 PM
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Re: 86 iroc build
This might sound stupid sence i have a ttop 3rd gen but i was hoping to actualy use it for drifting i know a decent amount about cars but i dont really know what i need to do to acheve this nicely but im willing to do what ever it takes to get me a decent drift camaro its at its factory weight about 3500 pounds and i have a 700r4 that is being pulled apart by higgins transmissions id doesnt have to be 500 hp just a good setup for drifting and i dont know the rearend im pretty sure its factory but i could build or buy whatever is best as long as its not over 3000$ for the rearend and the trans im willing to put about 1200$ into and but i really dont know what would work great i also just bought a 3200 stall vigilante torque converter and im kinda worried 3200 is to high
07-01-2015, 01:59 PM
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Car: 92 camaro/99 gmc Z71
Engine: 357/5.3
Transmission: built 700r4 4500 stall/4l60
Axle/Gears: 4.56/?
Re: 86 iroc build
Your goin to want to get some gears and a posi unit for the rear end. As far As the converter goes 3200 is fine.
07-01-2015, 02:33 PM
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: Alky 360
Transmission: TH400, Freakshow 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.71
Re: 86 iroc build
I can't help a whole lot as I don't know the drift scene very well, but I would think you are going to want to really stiffen up the chassis with a good set of subframe connectors, and a strut tower bar just to get you started. I am sure the road race guys will be of a lot more assistance.
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