jayonemo

I had a rack and pinion installed in my race car. Now it goes left at the 330 right after it shifts. Looking at the center section the tie rods have to go up about three inches to get to the Spindles. When you jack the car up the wheel poke out. Can a rack and pinion be mount too low.

AlkyIROC

Yes.

The tie rods should travel on the same arc as the suspension/control arms. Mounting the rack too high or too low will cause bump steer. As the suspension travels through it's arc, if the tie rods are not in the same arc, they will steer the tires in or outward.

http://www.longacreracing.com/techni...aspx?item=8162

Blizzard Bill

When you mount a R&P steering it's an exercise in trial and error. First measure the car at some point for ride height, then you must remove the springs in the front end. Take your white shoe polish and paint a white line in the center of each tire, spinning the tire to mark it all the way around, then take a screw driver and spin the tire again making a visible scribe line through the shoe polish. You now have a nice line to measure from. You want to measure the front tire distance about half way up the tire, either the front or back side of the tire will work. Then with a centered floor jack, jack the car back to the ride height measurement. Pick a likely spot for the rack to mount and tack weld /bolt a temporary mount for it. Ideally the rack pivot points should be close to the pivot point of the control arms . Connect the tie rod ends to the spindles.
At ride height measure the distance from one tire scribe line to the other. write this measurement down. Now lower the car one inch and measure again, drop the car again ( on a race car this will most likely bottom the travel) measure again. then jack the car back to ride height, measure again to be sure nothing is out of whack, raise it 1 inch measure again, 1 more inch and measure. Do this for the entire amount of wheel travel.
If the measurement is staying within 1/4 inch your good, mount it there . If it is not try raising or lowering the R&P and start again. It's all trial and error to find the position with the least amount of change in the measurement throughout the wheel/suspension travel. Sometimes you just can't get the correct geometry by moving the rack height and you have to use a spacer at the tie rod ends of the rack to minimize the change.
If this was a complete chasiss kit all this would have been work out by the chassis builder and it would be pretty straight forward, when your mixing parts yourself this is a little involved, take the time to do this and you will end up with a car that almost drives itself.