When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
wish I would have seen this post from the start.. have a lot of new in box ricky race parts from back in the day
accel plugs
accel dizzy
accel coil + 300 ing box
sfi flexplate
sfi bal
accel 1000 cfm tb
started giving stuff away about a week ago
wish I would have seen this post from the start.. have a lot of new in box ricky race parts from back in the day
accel plugs
accel dizzy
accel coil + 300 ing box
sfi flexplate
sfi bal
accel 1000 cfm tb
started giving stuff away about a week ago
NNNOOOOOoooooooo!
It's okay, the 12.99 Challenge rules don't let me get freebies, I'm lucky enough to work in the industry and have been offered everything from motors to paint supplies, but gotta stay true to the Cars illustrated Challenge and see if I can pull it off the right way.
Now, if you have some stuff you wanna sell for a great price - lets talk
We were busy last night at the shop filming the intro video for the 12.99 Cars Illustrated Challenge...
And wanted to give those who are logging on to the 3rd-Gen forum a sneak-peek from behind the scenes.
FYI - The #94 Car in the background is the other joint venture with Mike and myself. I jokingly call Mike "My Mr. Hendricks" because he lets me pilot his WRS Late Model and call it "my car" when I'm out having fun going in circles one quarter mile at a time.
Jon, yes that Jon from the Cars Illustrated testing video was making us look good on camera and doing his best to get some great beauty shots of the Z28.
And this last shot is just because I thought it looked cool - my two favorite rides.
Look for the 1st of many videos of our 12.99 adventure in the first part of September.
Until then look for updates on parts and progress on the Cars Illustrated FB, IG and YouTube pages.
Had to get something done today...
So I ran over to a friends shop - Factory Wheel Outlet and grabbed a loaner set of tires and wheels to keep the Z28 mobile, thanks Jim.
After that Mike and I unmounted the Centerlines, gave them a acid bath and I'm now on the hunt for a cheap set of used slicks or DOT drag radials...
And it gives me something to do if I get board - polishing wheels only costs elbow grease.
Going to dedicate a few hours Sunday to getting the fuel system dialed in and the car (hopefully) running.
Nice! While you're there at SEMA, do some grunt work for all us thirdgen guys /gals. ... grill the aftermarket suspension guys for us ( like a road race 2", 2.5" or even 3" drop spindles with an SAI of 16*, & extra length A arms to complement. .. let's say a 19" x 11" rim with 5.5" back spacing & 14" rotors w/ 6 pot Brembo style calipers ) heck & anything else you can think of that will help us serious daily driven/ Auto X die hards
ill try to put together a todo list. and take video of what I dig up..tryn to see if anybody from this site is going..passes are starting to get mailed out and should be showing up.. the wife and I are going from the same company..we paid for hotel/air/rent a car back in march to beat the price hikes and get a good room away from the hot mess..
and we will stop by and say what up Dennis.
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 08-29-2015 at 10:57 AM.
Awesome!
If you would let us know if the hotel is good ( price, location, condition, etc..), that way at least we know who to deal with. ( my brother & sister-in law, booked a vacation on line & TOTALLY got ripped off).
Thanks, looking forward to updates & info....I'M SO FREAKING JEALOUS! !!HAHA, not mad , but DAMN sure wish I was going.
we are staying at the Aliante Casino & Hotel.for a total of 8 days with air and hotel $980. tac on the rent a car $160 for the week. by the time you add ther mis fees another $150 Im sure. but we paid back in march. could be a bit more now. I might upgrade the rent a car for a bit more fun..thats another $400
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 08-29-2015 at 08:34 PM.
Not all that productive this weekend. Was going to work on the fuel system and the rain came in so I spent my shop time putting the top back on the Bronco and fighting the rear window - got it fixed, but by that time I called it for the night. Found a rear-end rebuilt kit and some little stuff...but gotta find out what is the skinny on the motors before I spend any budget just in case it's all gotta go into the engine.
Don't feel all alone, all my plans went to hell this weekend as well. Strained muscles in my right shoulder & couldn't even turn a door **** ! Let alone finish moving, such is life. .. pick up the pieces & continue on right.
It'll come together, just keep plugin away
Thought I'd post the "find of the day" to help the Cars Illustrated 12.99 Challenge 1991 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 get the job done.
How about a Richmond Gears 7.5in/10-bolt rebuild kit off a CL ad for $10 Bucks - they wanted $50 and thankfully I'm a good at negotiating with fellow Camaro nuts. Now I just have to "get the wrenches out" after I find a set of 4:10s for super cheap.
Math engaged - 5000rpm 26.9 (275/50/16) and 4:10 puts me at a 1.8 60ft and 12.99 at 105mph. I could be wrong, but that what my math says,
Might have found tires and a 3000rpm stall converter but won't know until tomorrow, so wish me luck...the budget is getting smaller everyday, but the parts I need are getting checked off the list.
WISH/Shopping List - 12.99 Cars Illustrated Challenge/1991 Z28
Okay...wow $1,299 goes quick.
Here is the hit list of items I'm trying to track down in the local area this weekend (shipping will kill getting parts that are not local to Portland Or.) to get the Z28 to 12.99
1. Used Mid 80's S10 10-Bolt 4:10 gear set
2. Used Late 80's early 90's 30-spline C4 2200rpm stall torque converter
NOTE: Images are for visual only - I tend to only look at threads with images so I normally include them.
3rd - If I could fit it into the budget I'd go 3:90s , but the idea is the $1299 budget and thats what is in a old S10 rear ends.
I've heard a reason for both, give me your opinion.
Think about these facts before and so you know...
A: Only has to go 12.99 once on a NHRA track and then can be returned to a more streetable 3:42.
B: I KNOW the L98 is all bottom and will spin - slicks.
C: I've done the math and if it hooks (see B) I'll run the 60s/330s I need to get to 12.99 at 5000/5100 rpm.
WIDE OPEN to opinion, so please give me what ya got
what mine looked like when I got it brack from lingenfelter 1992/93
27/28"tall rear tires with the 700r4 your going to 1st/2nd/3rd crossing 52/5400 rpm with the 4.11/4.10 gears. that's what mine was doing brand new in 1992. as iv had my car from day 1 rolling off the GM dealers lot. (12.80) @106mph 90/10 lake woods struts and drag lite wheels.28x12.5x15 et streets
slp headers. and cat back.
ligenfelter stage 5 upgrade 383 super ram 1000cfm tb. mech roller cam.maunl auto 700r4 10' 3200 stall by B&M.
ssm lift bars. 11.70s @ 118mph (currie enterprises 9"for detrt locker)
as the 7.5 will not hold up the the 1.54 60 ft
sportsmen fogger 150 shot on the super ram 10.80s (only using it in 3rd gear) in 2nd it would just spin..
all with 28" Tall 4,10s. never used 4th gear. 1st/2nd/3rd.. just popped her into neutral and started to brake/slow down. 1/4 mile runs.
that was the 90's
today...well..we will see..
I don't see any problems with you getting into the 12's
mine today
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 09-03-2015 at 08:29 PM.
what mine looked like when I got it brack from lingenfelter 1992/93
27/28"tall rear tires with the 700r4 your going to 1st/2nd/3rd crossing 52/5400 rpm with the 4.11/4.10 gears. that's what mine was doing brand new in 1992. as iv had my car from day 1 rolling off the GM dealers lot. (12.80) @106mph 90/10 lake woods struts and drag lite wheels.29x12.5x15 et streets
slp headers. and cat back.
ligenfelter stage 5 upgrade 383 super ram 1000cfm tb. mech roller cam.maunl auto 700r4 10' 3200 stall by B&M.
ssm lift bars. 11.70s @ 118mph (currie enterprises 9"for detrt locker)
as the 7.5 will not hold up the the 1.54 60 ft
sportsmen fogger 150 shot on the super ram 10.80s (only using it in 3rd gear) in 2nd it would just spin..
all with 28" Tall 4,10s. never used 4th gear. just popped her into neutral and started to brake/slow down.
that was the 90's
today...well..we will see..
I don't see any problems with you getting into the 12's
mine today
I cross the stripe at about 5500 for a 12.75@ 105 mph pass.
700R4, 3.73 gear, 26" tire.
The calculators http://www.wallaceracing.com/calc-gear-tire-rpm-mph.php say 5100 rpm but if you add in about 10% convertor slippage it works out.
Substituting a 4.10 gear, puts me at 6100 rpm. (Which in my case might actually be a better gear for the track).
Keep in mind that my ET and MPH are not ideally matched. Seems to me you can go 12.99 with about a 104 mph trap speed.
yes with slp headers catback(no cats just tube) b&m parts/prep and 10"covtr. 4.10's. ac parts off
90/10sfront 50/50back 28x12.5 15 heyprtech chip. 165 stat.adjbl fuel reg. ssm lift bars and the weld wheels..
when I got it back from ligenfelters the car would run 11.70's all day long.
hit the nos..and it was 10's
broke rings & pinons..sprags in the tranny when rings and pinons would let go..this was why the 9" install
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 09-03-2015 at 09:40 PM.
I cross the stripe at about 5500 for a 12.75@ 105 mph pass.
700R4, 3.73 gear, 26" tire.
The calculators http://www.wallaceracing.com/calc-gear-tire-rpm-mph.php say 5100 rpm but if you add in about 10% convertor slippage it works out.
Substituting a 4.10 gear, puts me at 6100 rpm. (Which in my case might actually be a better gear for the track).
Keep in mind that my ET and MPH are not ideally matched. Seems to me you can go 12.99 with about a 104 mph trap speed.
That is where I'm at...S10 3:73 or 4:10
Wish I could afford new 3:90s but just gotta see what I find the cheapest...I'm still getting a 50/50 on the 3:73 vs. 4:10s
AND is I can do the "home made" tricks to get that L98 to rev past 5100...
If you're rpm limited, then the wise choice would the 3.73 vs the 4.10. That only makes sense I would think. If you find it in your budget to move your "power band" (peak TQ to peak HP range) up about 500 rpm, then the taller gear looks better to me.
This is coming from a guy who could use more gear to go deeper into the 12's. Then again my 12.99 wasn't done for $1299! (Vortec heads, XR276HR cam, 12" TCI converter, 3.70 in the B&W 9 bolt, used slicks in a 3700lb slug). The heads purchased new and then modified and the retro-fit roller cam blew that budget.
If you do not cam it, the stock cam with 1.6 rockers will be peaked by 5100 and starting to drop by 5300 and done by 5500. This is with any short runner type intake and not tpi
104-105 mph trap could be possible with standard bolt ons and in that case 3.42-3.73 is all the gear you should run on a 26-27" tire.
4.10's you may run on a true 28" tire but thats unnecessary tire weight. 26x8 tire is more than enough. Keep weight down
There is another option, all be it harder to come by, GMPP offered an "over the counter only " upgrade for the rear diff. a Dana 44 & the high gear for it was a 3.92., I know, because I have one in my '85, 392's & full spool.
when it was new. I also used 26" tall et drags..i picked up almost 6mph with the 28" tall et streets.
this shot shows the MT et streets on the rear 28x12.5x15 stock body height front and back
this is what she looked like after sitting locked away for almost 10 years
that's why the redo today...getting into the 12's should be a walk in the park...on the cheap.
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 09-04-2015 at 12:30 AM.
The biggest single thing that stands out when I made the jump from 13's to 12's was an improved 60' time. 2.x was the best I could pull off. Then a better set of tires paid off with a 1.8x. Added a converter (replaced the 12" with a 10") and the 60' was better still with a best 0f 1.74.
If you're rpm limited, then the wise choice would the 3.73 vs the 4.10. That only makes sense I would think. If you find it in your budget to move your "power band" (peak TQ to peak HP range) up about 500 rpm, then the taller gear looks better to me.
This is coming from a guy who could use more gear to go deeper into the 12's. Then again my 12.99 wasn't done for $1299! (Vortec heads, XR276HR cam, 12" TCI converter, 3.70 in the B&W 9 bolt, used slicks in a 3700lb slug). The heads purchased new and then modified and the retro-fit roller cam blew that budget.
Thanks for the feedback - leaning more and more towards the 3:73s, but tires could have a effect on choice.
There is another option, all be it harder to come by, GMPP offered an "over the counter only " upgrade for the rear diff. a Dana 44 & the high gear for it was a 3.92., I know, because I have one in my '85, 392's & full spool.
The perfect choice would be 3:90s from Richmond, but the 12.99 budget kills that idea....
when it was new. I also used 26" tall et drags..i picked up almost 6mph with the 28" tall et streets.
this shot shows the MT et streets on the rear 28x12.5x15 stock body height front and back
this is what she looked like after sitting locked away for almost 10 years
that's why the redo today...getting into the 12's should be a walk in the park...on the cheap.
SO WANT THIS TO BE WHERE I LAND!!!
Love the stance and look of this car....now, sell me those tires and wheels REALLY CHEAP...okay, just the rear tires REALLY CHEAP, please?
well I have gone to new wheels & tires. and just happen to still have my old rears with et streets on them they do have MT tubes .MIGHT have 3 or 4 runs left in them..they are old..hummm..
they could use a new home.as I would buy matching wheels for the track tires..but I think the shipping would kill ya
that one shot of the new rear wheels was taken before the clean up..it's snowballed to out of hand..but it's taking me so long..im doing everything I can as a excuse!!..lol
RHS just came out with a polished intake a few months ago...so every thing had to go chrome or polished..
even the wheels went from Weld RTS on the front to weld 2.0... its never going to end!
note cog drive blower pully on floor..needs to be polished...make it stop!!
don't know what ya have in your budget $200 don't know the ride cost that would be on top.
15x8 4.5 back space bolt on without mods tires 28x12.5x15 with MT Tubes
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 09-05-2015 at 10:27 PM.
Well....how about $50 bucks?
Totally understand if the answer is no, but gotta ask.
Where are you located - I'll look into shipping, could you weigh them?
I'm not sure where the math is that you're using, but you're not going to run those times with the 60's you're talking about. 12's at less than 106mph is "everything is dialed in right and you're leaving the line HARD." like 1.6 60' hard.
Can it be done? Sure, and it sure doesn't need 4.11 gears. This is my '87 305 TPI+5speed (with really no power mods but headers) with 3.50 gears running a 13.6 misfiring (loose coil wire, details in the description) @ ~3580#:
I'd bet that as it sits I don't have $1299 in it now (but I do have some parts that would be questionable like a 9" rear that I got when I was working at a speed shop, but I would also argue that it would be faster with a stock 10bolt and 3.42's (closest factory ratio) just because it would be lighter, and a 5 speed was available from the factory with 3.73's which would be even faster, the 10 bolt is almost 100# lighter, uses less power and stock drum brakes have less drag).
I would put money down that with a little more aggressive tune and fixing the misfire it was a solid 13.3-13.5 car. A PO stuck a lightweight clutch assembly that doesn't want to hold in it, a stock flywheel with a stock or better clutch would probably get me another .1-.2 in the 60', and a 10bolt with 3.73's would help the launch and ET/mph some.
I've typically seen 1.5x the improvement in ET from an improvement in 60', so at that point I would be expecting it to run 13.0-13.2. I'd bet that I could get the rest in gutting the interior, ditching everything in the car that doesn't make it go faster, under the hood, lightweight front tires, remove the catback....
oh, and I've gone faster with a formula 350 with less done to it (no headers even), just no video of that.
You have 45 more cubes. If it was me and I was trying to go 12.99 with that thing as cheap as possible:
- Headers, no exhaust (whatever you can find used, occasionally you can pick up some rotted out long tubes for $25-75 around here or CL, perfect, even if they leak)
- if you have any gear between 3.23-3.73 I would keep it
- any cheap/used converter with 3000-3600stall
- you'll probably want to tighten up the trans shifting (can do that for about $45 with a b&m shift kit, or cheaper with better quality stuff if you know what you're doing on your own)
- tires (most of these cost based challenges don't count tires, but if they do I've seen slicks/skinnies that will do what you need them to for a few runs go for $200)
- remove anything that doesn't make you go faster (if you still pretend this is a street car and don't want to gut it you'll be at about 3400# race weight, maybe less, if you _really_ gut it I've heard of a few people getting these things down >2800#
- a lot of tuning/tweaking
Do that right and I'd bet that you could run a 1.6x 60', and ~12.75@107(a lot faster if you really drop weight). If you have any money left over spray it and run 11's (I doubt the trans will survive that, but I bet you could get 1 or 2 11 second timeslips before you lost the 1-2 shift)
Oh, and I guess either any of these cars or this combination depends on a good driver. Stick the average driver in them and you have a >14s car.
I'm in CDA Idaho. 35 miles from Spokane WA. ill check what the cost with FedEx with my acct..cheaper by 17%. I have a box for 1. ill check Monday. if there open.. tue if not.
what ya got for trade?... is always open.
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 09-06-2015 at 02:10 AM.
I'm not sure where the math is that you're using, but you're not going to run those times with the 60's you're talking about. 12's at less than 106mph is "everything is dialed in right and you're leaving the line HARD." like 1.6 60' hard.
Can it be done? Sure, and it sure doesn't need 4.11 gears. This is my '87 305 TPI+5speed (with really no power mods but headers) with 3.50 gears running a 13.6 misfiring (loose coil wire, details in the description) @ ~3580#: Capitol Raceway 11-15-14 - ****** Militia Fall Meet - DSC 3208 - YouTube
I'd bet that as it sits I don't have $1299 in it now (but I do have some parts that would be questionable like a 9" rear that I got when I was working at a speed shop, but I would also argue that it would be faster with a stock 10bolt and 3.42's (closest factory ratio) just because it would be lighter, and a 5 speed was available from the factory with 3.73's which would be even faster, the 10 bolt is almost 100# lighter, uses less power and stock drum brakes have less drag).
I would put money down that with a little more aggressive tune and fixing the misfire it was a solid 13.3-13.5 car. A PO stuck a lightweight clutch assembly that doesn't want to hold in it, a stock flywheel with a stock or better clutch would probably get me another .1-.2 in the 60', and a 10bolt with 3.73's would help the launch and ET/mph some.
I've typically seen 1.5x the improvement in ET from an improvement in 60', so at that point I would be expecting it to run 13.0-13.2. I'd bet that I could get the rest in gutting the interior, ditching everything in the car that doesn't make it go faster, under the hood, lightweight front tires, remove the catback....
oh, and I've gone faster with a formula 350 with less done to it (no headers even), just no video of that.
You have 45 more cubes. If it was me and I was trying to go 12.99 with that thing as cheap as possible:
- Headers, no exhaust (whatever you can find used, occasionally you can pick up some rotted out long tubes for $25-75 around here or CL, perfect, even if they leak)
- if you have any gear between 3.23-3.73 I would keep it
- any cheap/used converter with 3000-3600stall
- you'll probably want to tighten up the trans shifting (can do that for about $45 with a b&m shift kit, or cheaper with better quality stuff if you know what you're doing on your own)
- tires (most of these cost based challenges don't count tires, but if they do I've seen slicks/skinnies that will do what you need them to for a few runs go for $200)
- remove anything that doesn't make you go faster (if you still pretend this is a street car and don't want to gut it you'll be at about 3400# race weight, maybe less, if you _really_ gut it I've heard of a few people getting these things down >2800#
- a lot of tuning/tweaking
Do that right and I'd bet that you could run a 1.6x 60', and ~12.75@107(a lot faster if you really drop weight). If you have any money left over spray it and run 11's (I doubt the trans will survive that, but I bet you could get 1 or 2 11 second timeslips before you lost the 1-2 shift)
Oh, and I guess either any of these cars or this combination depends on a good driver. Stick the average driver in them and you have a >14s car.
Thanks Mark for all this feedback, absolutely love it. There is lots of ideas floating on the 12.99 Challenge Z28 - and budget is the key to everything.
I know I can wheel the thing - it's just what combo is gonna get me there with what items that fall into my lap. Thats kinda the deal with the 12.99 challenge. We all know what to do to make it go that fast, but can you/me/anyone do it for $1,299 bucks?
08-21-2015, 05:03 PM
