no green

I finally killed my little home built 355 after about 10 years of relentlessly beating on it like a rented mule. Dropped #7 exhaust valve, and punched a hole in the piston, broke the block, and destroyed the head. After pricing out some other SBC options, then realizing my screen name and budget, I decided to jump on the LS bandwagon. The old engine went a best of 11.72 @ 115 on motor, and 10.62 @ 125 on a 100 shot. It was 11.5:1, ported double bumps, super vic, and solid roller cam. The goal with this build is to survive an 11.50 index series next year and to beat the modest 10.60et. How much I need to spray it to do that is TBD, but I buy 2 mother bottles a year, so it's a non issue

Rip “ironsides” 1969-2015.






My friend Vinnie lent me this stroker engine to finish out my renegade racing association 11.50 index points weekend for the year. Went a best of 11.18 with this engine (on 93 and no nitrous), and made it to the semi’s on the second day, but lost to a .015 red-light. You can learn more about our series on our website http://www.renegaderacingassociation.com/ or facebook.




my fireturd in action.




This is the specs on the rest of the car, and what I’ll be adapting to the 5.3.

85 firebird all steel, full interior 3580#
770 E85 holley by Horsepower Innovations
Edelbrock RPM nitrous system http://static.summitracing.com/globa...Kitsforthe.pdf
Rossler TH400 Terminator 2.5 w/ JW bell.
FTI 4800 stall CONVERTER
Strange 4.11 S60 spool
28x10.5 3055s M/T slicks
spohn pro series torque arm
founders performance rear lca’s, panhard, lca brackets
steinjager sway bar
90/10 lakewood struts , QA1 DA stockers
dynomax bullets & 3" dual exhaust

no green

My little brother donated this 5.3 to the cause. He got it in lot with another engine and some axles for his jeep project.




Unfortunately, this poor little engine looks like it served a past life as a boat anchor for the Exxon-Valdez. After pricing out a rebuild and parts, it’ll blow my budget to do anything with this right now, so for now I’m going to clean up the block enough to use it as a mock up block. I’m maybe going to save up for a stroker kit for it, and put a 4” crank in it when money allows. But, for now, I’m hunting boneyards for another suitable 5.3.

no green

My friend Tom has an LS swapped nova, and freshend his built 383 ls1 engine last winter.







He had these leftover parts taking up attic space he needed to make his wife happy, so he kindly donated them to the build. There’s an LS1 style aluminum underdrive dampner, a “Demos” camshaft with matched valve springs and TI retainers, and aftermarket pushrods. There was a box of hardware and gaskets he donated, too. http://demoscams.com/ sent me sent me the cam card for it, below.

no green

I sold off enough of the leftover SBC parts to be able to afford to buy these headers and 1" set back adapter plates from racing innovation and supply, via their eBay store. They shipped super fast. They were made better than I expected. The welds on the headers look good, they are free of slag, the materials are heavy duty, and looks like whoever made them took some pride in it. The gaskets that came with them are cheapies, but good enough for mock up. I like the mounts, too. They were like $35, but came with $15 worth of hardware to install them.



Links to their parts:

http://racinginnovationandsupply.com...ap-header.html

http://racinginnovationandsupply.com...-ls7-swap.html

no green

I sold off some other parts to a racing pal that lives next to Summit Racing Equipment in Talmadge, so I took the cash in there to scour through the bargain bin. I was rewarded with this Meziere flexplate, marked down to $200 from $457.









We have a wellness program at work, which rewards us with amazon gift cards. I was able to buy this alternator bracket kit using the points, and had $0 cash outlay. It uses an alternator from a 96-99 chevy truck. I have a couple of those alternators laying around from other LS truck swaps, so if the alternator tests good, the alternator setup will work out as a freebie…



It's an ICT billet 512-2.

http://www.ictbillet.com/ls1-camaro-...ls-billet.html


Updates when it shows up, and i sell off some more parts to be able to continue my shopping spree. Right now I'm sitting on $150 profit, but that'll go fast...

84 z28

Lookin good, Subscribed

bluegrassz

iTrader: (3)

I may be doing the same thing before long.

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

Looking good so far!!!

Skinny Neb

iTrader: (2)

^^What he said!

Aerosmith

Good start Ricky. I guess I'll have to come look here for updates..I haven't been here in years! GG

rb85TA

Just don't get in a hurry, the best deals come to those who wait for them

no green

Thanks for the encouragement, everyone!!

The alternator bracket came in, and is nice quality. Heavy aluminum plate that looks laser cut, but there wasn't any burrs or sharp edges, and it came with factory type hardware to make it all work. The brackets were not polished, though. I don't care for this project, but don't expect a chrome like sparkle. Unfortunately, both alternators I have are froze up solid, so I'll have to get them rebuilt or head to NAPA.

I found ICT billet makes these adapters to put a big block chevy water pump onto an ls engine: http://www.ictbillet.com/ls-electric...ne-551515.html. So I'm going to keep hitting up the treadmill to rack up enough wellness points to get it from amazon...

After I found them, I put the word out I was looking for an electric BBC water pump. Turns out my friend ken was looking for an MSD digital 6 box that I just took off my car. So I traded him the box and 10# of nitrous for this, and $200 cash over the weekend at the dragstrip. My dog, Bullitt, quality inspects all my parts, before I bolt them on the car.



Ken wanted to put a black one on his car, aparently he had enough shiny stuff already... He drives this everywhere and runs 10s on engine with it.

no green

Thanks. I agree, but need to be out testing in April. The hardest part (for me) is having cash in hand when deals come up... I have 2 shopping lists. One for bargain bin parts, the other for bend over and cough parts

I needed to jump on those headers. I've been watching them for quite some time, they only had like 5 sets left. If a batch sells out, you have to wait months for the next batch to come over on the slow boat.

no green

A buddy Jay broke the rearend in his chevelle Friday , so he took this out of the wrapper to finish out the weekend. I'm using it for some inspiration!! I cannot wait to line up against this...









never seen a racecar with "that new car smell"

bones427

^^Nice ^^

no green

it is!!

no green

Last night, I became the proud new owner of this yard fresh 5.3. My old neighbor owns a bone yard, and his guys damaged the valve cover and water pump pulling this gem out of a Tahoe. So, he sold it to me for the bargain bin price of $300, where all the other ‘running’ ones he had were $600. It’s fitting, because I originally bought my old 355 of the same person 10 years ago…



Back home, it passed qc.


When they pulled it, the strap broke the top port off the water pump, and this boss off the valve cover, and one of the coils was busted. No big deal, though, I have these items from the other engine.




I pulled the valve cover, and my first thought was, “JACKPOT!!”





As of right now, I'm officially broke even, the parts I've sold equals the money I've spent... need to sell off some more stuff and/or save up some cash.

rb85TA

It looks really clean inside! Great buy

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

NICE!!! I just sold one the other day that was internally that clean. Only paid $100 for it because the fuel rail had caught fire and partially melted the intake and coils. The fire did not even get hot enough to hurt the valve cover gaskets or intake gaskets. I have learned over the years external appearance has NOTHING to do with internal and vice versa.

no green

Thanks. He had another one that was in an engine fire for the same money, but this was the better buy... Still had coils and good sensors the other one didn't, and a harness good enough to use as a donor for another project. If I wanted to, I think I could get $150 back in stuff off this I wont be using on the bird, but for now, it's going in the attic for other projects.

no green

I spent Saturday morning braving the sub 40 degree temps and snow to power wash both engines. I put enough of the first one together to use as a mock up, and wanted to pre-clean the grime off the one I’m going to use, because it was easier to do that while it was assembled.

The mock up block came out pretty good considering how bad it was.



After I took all the un-needed stuff off the ‘good’ engine, it cleaned up nicer than I thought it would. It was well maintained and it showed. It had a fresh oil filter (high $ fram) and newer plugs in it, so it showed more evidence of a well maintained piece.





after



The bores still had a crosshatch in them, and the water jackets were spotless. Never mind the “rust” it was just water from washing, it cleaned up easily with a rag & some wd40. There was also very little carbon buildup. I think this out of a good maintained vehicle, that was unfortunately wrecked soon after a tune up...



Night and day difference from the other engine...



The busted up water pump in it's final resting place among the beer cans.



My water pump adapters came in Saturday from ICT billet. I bolted them on the mock up block. They are nice made, and fit the block great. My only complaint is that they use 10mm hardware to hold the water pump on, I wish they would have used 3/8” like a factory bbc. It might work fine with the Chinese pump they mention in their add, but I have to get some m10 Allen heads, and open the holes in this mezire pump to make it all work. Not a big issue, though, just something to watch for.

no green

Got the mock up block set in place last night.



I sold the connecting rods out of the 355, so I was able to afford a box full of hardware and fittings from Summit that will be here tonight.

And i hung the #7 piston on the growing wall of shame, next to, ironically, the old #7 piston I melted last year.

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

That piston is pretty bad. I'm coming over from your PM on YB. Keep us posted.

rb85TA

Ya might consider a dual wide band air/fuel mixture gauge. ... seeing as you've had this exact problem before. Just sayin

no green

Thanks for the advice. When i have the budget, it will happen. What would you recommend?

The problem before was the steel line between the solinoid and plate was corroded, and I didnt catch it. I made alot of passes without issue, then i tried to put a big jet in it, and some timeing, and go to far too fast. If the wideband had an idiot light on it, it might not have been so bad, but still might have ate the piston. The valve dropped because i over revved the engine in the burnout box and the valve hit the piston... I rang this thing's neck for along time, and only hurt it from my own mistakes. Live and learn.

rb85TA

Yeah, I wasn't trying to be mean.... just thought it'd be a good idea, since this makes 2 in a row with same problem, in same hole.
Trust me, you ain't first. ... & won't be the last to fall victim to it.
Looking forward to following your build

no green

It's a coincidence about the same hole... I was lucky enough to destroy my dart heads last year when I melted the pistons (#8 went, too). So I had to go back to my old double bumps, which dont allow for a big enough valve spring for the big *** cam I got, add in a heavy foot and a desire to show off in the burnout box, and i was shopping for LS parts the next day

Funny story about the melted pistons, though. I was trying to go for my first 9 second pass last year at night under fire. Since I only get 2 shots at it, I put a big jet in, and some timing. It went a best ever 1.38 60', and a nice 3.99 330'... then it started burning itself up. I felt it nose over a little but stayed in it, and went a 10.40 at 120, my fastest pass ever in the car.

I knew from the MPH it was hurt, and the ends of #7 & #8 plugs were gone, and number 1 & 2 were nipped. That event was the first time my 85 year old grandmother had ever been to a race track (not just a drag track, any track). So, with 2 burnt pistons & some new plugs, i still gave grandma the ride of her life through the pit roads

On the way home, I blew a head gasket in the tow vehicle, and when I did get home, I found the torque arm had broke the trans mount and bellhousing, too. I have the wheelie picture from that pass on my wall at work... To remind myself about my $3000 day at the track. The picture makes it all worth it!!

rb85TA

Right! As the old sayin goes. ... if you're afraid to break it, ya shouldn't race it!
And you sir, have lived it! My hat's off to ya .

no green

Made a little bit of progress this weekend, started round 1 of figuring out fittings and hardware. I use mechanical gauges, this is what I am using to adapt them.

For the oil pressure, I picked up an autometer 2268 oil pressure adapter.



I re-used the fittings from the small block, and it plugged right in. Don't forget to use the restrictor fitting with mechanical oil pressure gauges.



I read somewhere that an autometer 2275 would work in the head, so I gave it a shot, and found that it wont work in the head. I did some more research and decided my best option would be to drill out the water temp hole to 3/8" NPT and us an autometer 2263 adapter.

no green

Something that I'm finding is the metric bolts I need to use aren't fitting in the standard holes from the transmission and stuff. 10mm = .394", and the holes in my belhousing, motor mounts, and water pump are .375". So I need to pull the mock up engine back out and enlarge the holes on the bellhousing and other stuff. If you need to do this in a hurry, check out your bellhousing, or you might be in for a surprise.

I'm re-using the puke tank from the 355, and needed to figure out how to mount it. Dad made me this bracket once upon a time for the old engine, so I decided to reuse it.



after messing with some cardboard, i decided it just needed a few cuts, and two new holes drilled in it.



turned it around, and mounted to the head.




It was nice on Sunday, so I decided to get a jump start on some gardening for next year. A little mulch and some flowers, and my new yard ornament will be all set!!

no green

I had some time to mess with this last night. I pulled the mock up block back out, and drilled the bellhousing bolt holes out. I found a 27/64" drill bit worked perfect for the new M10 bolts. I didnt have to do this on swaps with an OE bellhousing, though, just this Ultrabell. The top bolt hole here, above the dowl, is always a PITA to get to, so I am going to try and reshape the firewall with a BFH in the near future.



These are the bolts I used to adapt the JW Ultrabell over to an LS. I was hoping they would use a 10mm wrench (like a 3/8"), but they came with a 13mm, and my ratchet wrench was about the same size as the 9/16 I had always used.

no green

Up until this point, the block was just setting in place. I wanted to bolt it in solid, and mock in the headers. So, I started messing with the new mounts while the mock up block was on the bench, and quickly found a problem. The hardware that came in the kit was way too long for any sbc mount I can think of. The kit also came with a handful of nylock nuts, and I cant see what the point of them are. I called racing innovation and supply and the owner answered. After discussing the issue, he said he was going to investigate and get back to me. I said I could source shorter bolts or cut these, but he said he would like to resolve the issue so it doesn't happen to someone else. Hopefully he does, but in the mean time, I found some bigger problems.



After trying for about an hour to adapt the Moroso 62510 & 62610 solid motor mounts, I see they wont work like I had hoped.

Drivers side


passenger side




after some google searching, I quickly found I'm not alone: http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...l#post15027680

Apparently, the moroso mounts are a little taller than stock for increased oil pan clearance, but add in the 1/4" thick LS adapter and different block, and there's no more margin for error. I think a rubber mount would have some leeway, and probably work fine.



I don't want to go to a rubber mount like he did, and I'm not liking the 3 piece adapter to the adapter thing I got going on here, so I'm thinking of designing something different. Since I'm short on cash, I might end up building something out of what I got, or even re-drilling the K member to make it all work. In the mean time, google is free, so I'm going to search around for another option.

no green

Now that the holidays are over, and my house renovations are done, I'm back on this.

I've been spending some money since the last post...

I went to Hutter in Chardon Ohio, and got my new smart spark from Daytona sensors. I've been hearing a lot of good stuff about this box, and it's got some more bells and whistles than the MSD, so I took the plunge. Also, Hutter usually pits by me at the track, so tech help and trouble shooting should be a breeze. And Hutter was cool enough to give me a cash discount on this.







After looking into oil pans, I found most all of the used F body pans were like $275... so for a few bucks more, I sprung and got all new stuff from summit. GM part numbers 12628771, 12558251, & 12558253 will get you everything you need. I think it was worth it, because the new stuff came with all the gaskets, hardware, and pickup o ring to make it all work, so it's a better buy to get new. Besides, I got enough summit gift cards for christmas to cover this, and a box of hardware I need.



I traded in some workout points for a new valley cover from ICT billet: http://www.ictbillet.com/ls-gen-3-va...s1-551629.html. It's a nice piece, dresses up the engine, and gets rid of the knock sensors.

no green

I installed the new/used camshaft, using the original timing chain and hardware.



I got the block cleaned up and painted. I decided to go with aluminum engine paint, to make it look more like the COPO I'm using for inspiration.



Valley cover installed. I need to do a little clean up on the heads, I hope to have them installed this week or next weekend.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

just now seeing this glad those ict billet water pump adapters are getting some press....they were my idea (not to toot my own horn at all, Alan over there is an awesome guy to deal with and likes outside ideas, lol! so send him your thoughts on the threads).

i didn't read through all the thread to see the details of your build, just glanced over the pictures, but it looks like it's coming along. let me know if you have any issues or questions. Keep up the good work Ricky!

no green

Thanks Matt! I like everything from ICT so far. I'm glad they're around, I wouldn't be able to do this without all those pieces.

Good Luck with yours, too!

CarGuyDennis

Digging this build from start to now - looking forward to the next steps.
Bummer on the little 355 - but GREAT deal on the LS5.3

More more more!

no green

A little progress last night.

I laid out all the coil sets I acquired to make 2 nice assemblies for the car, and had enough left to make a spare to keep in the trailer. I'm going to clean up and detail the ones that will make their way on to the car.



I mocked up this little assembly to confirm where I'm going to have the valve cover bungs welded on. I'm taking them to Skippy did it race cars in Ravenna to have them welded up.

pass side





driver side




and my knockoff head studs and GM MLS gaskets came in. I traded in some workout points for the gaskets, and used a $100 bill I got for Christmas to buy the studs. The plan is to install the new/used springs and titanium retainers then get them painted and torqued in place.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

might check this out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LSX-LS1-LS6-...xRbHJP&vxp=mtr

no green

Thanks Matt, I ordered the shiny one.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

then you won't have to weld the fitting on. i've seen some guys that tap the PCV hole for NPT threads

no green

That's a good idea, you know what size npt?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

1/2 maybe? i think it depends on the year of the valve cover cause some use a traditional pcv valve, and others use a nipple that's just pressed into the cover.

no green

I had him weld it there. I already had the bung, and my covers looked pretty thin.

rb85TA

Looking good

no green

I got a lot accomplished this weekend.

I got the new windage tray and pickup installed.



Then I got the old free-bee balancer cleaned and painted.



I had to rig up my balancer installer with a longer threaded rod and some spacers to make it work right.



And installed with a new OEM bolt.



Then I got the pan installed. I thought it was missing a few bolts, but it turned out they were trapped in the bottom of the pan, under the oil baffle. I'm glad I took the baffle out to clean underneath...



Even though this is an "F body" pan, since it's a new GM pan, it's the revised design, so 98-01 camaro oil filters dont fit. You have to get one with bigger threads. Its a ph48 or equiv.

no green

With the bottom end wrapped up, I moved on to the heads.

I drilled & tapped the 3/8 npt for the water temp sender.



Then I installed the springs and TI retainers from Tom. The stock springs measured 50# on the seat, the new ones were 75#.





After all that, I cleaned them once again, then treated them to a fresh coat of aluminum paint.



While the paint dried, I said a prayer for unlucky #7...



Then torqued the heads and rockers in place. I also detailed the steam tube and installed the cam sensor.

no green

I figured this isn't the last time i will need this template to drill for the alternator bracket. I got it from ICT, just transfer punch and drill and tap for a M10 bolt.



Then the old alternator I had kicking around went on without any issue....








...Until I needed a belt. ICT has a recommended belt size, but my underdrive balancer required a few trips to the parts store to come up with the right one for my application.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

that template for the alternator hole is nice! i'll pick one up.

keep an eye on oil pressure on the launch with that f-body pan. i got into the mid 1.4x range before i started seeing a problem. the pick up is very close to the front of the sump. i was seeing as much as 50psi drop on the launch. i picked up a moroso pan and pickup and haven't seen the problem return since. the pan i'm running uses a remote filter housing, but moroso has since revisited it and made part number 20142 that uses a stock location filter.

food for thought.

no green

crap.... if this doesn't do low 1.30's like the last one did, i'll set it on fire.

Looking at the measurements on that moroso pan, it looks like i wont even have to notch my k member. i'll take all that gm stuff back, and cough up a little more $$ this week...