Beeman

Anyone change their gas pedal from a cable to a rod? I like the idea of having a rod and a pedal with a toe hook just in case. if you did what pedal did you use? Any pics?

AlkyIROC

I've had a rod pedal for years mainly because I also use a throttle stop as a starting line enhancer. The pedal itself was something out of a mini van. Can't remember which type. I fabricated a way to mount the pedal and put a small toe hook on it. It wasn't pretty but it worked well.

Hardest part is the linkage. The throttle pedal is nowhere close to being in line with carb linkage so pedal design inside the car needs to move the arm up and closer to the center of the car for a straight back pull on the linkage.

I simply cut a round hole in the firewall then put a rubber grommet in the hole to cover it up enough to pass tech. Not allowed to have any open holes in the firewall.

I'm still in the process of fabricating a new transmission tunnel. With it, I also need to fabricate a new throttle pedal and linkage. Just need the initiative to get off my butt and get it done. At least once I have a new throttle pedal in place, I can fire the engine back up even if I don't have a trans tunnel fabricated yet.

I did find a cool kit on ebay. They offer 2 different models. One for a roll cage mount and another for a firewall mount. This would be far easier and cheaper than fabricating something from scratch. The only thing extra required would be the actual linkage rod going to the carb. If the exchange rate ever gets closer to par, I wouldn't hesitate to order it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230362703069?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
The bad part about this design is the cross shaft. If you notice the stock pedal in a third gen is right beside the trans tunnel. You would have to mount it high enough to clear the trans tunnel but not so high as to put the pedal high off the floor. In my drag car, I want the pedal mounted back more so it gets a little more clearance being away from the firewall. My last throttle pedal was almost in line with the brake pedal. My seat is positioned back and I don't want to stretch to move the pedal to WOT so moving the pedal back was the best option. Just required a lot more fabrication work but in a race car, that's normal.

The last thing required is some sort of adjustable linkage stop to stop pedal travel at WOT. You don't want to force the linkage past that point or things start to bend, break or jam.

Beeman

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Allstar-ALL5...hVJAbt&vxp=mtr
This is the pedal I'm looking at. Cutting the cowl, trans tunnel and the gas pedal seem to all tie in together. The factory cable setup has the cable exiting left of the pedal and it's tight at the tunnel.

AlkyIROC

For throttle linkage style, you will probably still need to do modifications to the pedal to get it to line up properly with the carb linkage.