90/81camaro

So my car has been sitting in the garage for a few years now and I finally have the motivation and time to get her running again and ive been considering taking it to the strip. Im just looking for some advice and im curious what you all think it might run. Its a 92 Camaro that has 383 crate motor in it 1.94 heads, a mild cam, I just had the 700r4 rebuilt with a b&m shift kit, a torque converter built to the specs of my motor and stock rear end (I think the 3.23). I bought the car with the motor already in it and was told that it was pushing 425hp however ive done a few upgrades myself so im thinking 450 hopefully. Ive never made even 1 pass on strip and im still a beginner in the car building hobby so any tips and advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.

no green

Find a trophy class or T&T night at your closest track and have at it. You need to get seat time to figure out what direction you want to take (i.e. spend money on). And don't try to rotate the earth your first time out. If your humble, you'll make friends there real quick, it's funny that every third gen owner I've met at the track, we've become instant pals. Don't be afraid to ask questions there. You'll make mistakes, learn from them and move on.

If that car has been sitting a while, give it a good tune up, plugs wires, carb, all fluids, and make sure you're not leaking anything, a new battery would be a good idea, too. Just make sure it's in tip top shape, and not a death trap. I'd recommend pulling the antifreeze out and going with strait water and your additive of choice.

What kind of tires are you running? It's going to sound cliche', but, a new rear end should be on your upgrade list right now.

90/81camaro

Thank you for the advice. I am currently running the bf Goodrich radials and they need to be replaced anyway. What would you recommend for tires? I briefly looked through the forums but didn't make any progress. Im still going drive the car on the street, but its not my daily driver so I don't drive it in wet weather if that makes a difference. What should i look into for a rear end? posi or limited slip? 3.73 or 4.11?

AlkyIROC

Street tires at the track are only needed if the class you run in doesn't allow anything else. Even if you go with a drag radial, it's not really designed for street use. The rubber compound is too soft for street use and the tires will wear out very quickly.

Buy a second set of rims. One set has your long life street tires. The other set has a set of wear out quickly race tires. Drag radials have a life span of around 3000 miles before they're considered worn out. Want to change your tires every oil change?

Buy some DOT slicks for track use only even if you mount them at home and drive to the track. Drive home and put your street tires back on. When I say drive to the track, it should be less than 30 miles one way. If it's a long drive, take the tires with you and change them at the track.

First thing to understand about bracket racing. Speed means nothing. The slowest car at the track can still win. It's fun to go fast but also costs more money. #2. What kind of car is lined up beside you? Who cares. You're running your own race. Just because you beat or got beat by some other brand means nothing. When I pull up to the staging lights, the only thing I want to know is which car has the faster dial in so I'll know if I launch first or second.

no green

If your engine rely makes 450 hp, and you can set your car up right, i don't see why you wouldn't be in bottom 12's high 11's. You probably wont do that out of the gate, though.

To Alky's point, if you go faster than 11.50, you'll be into needing a roll bar and safety gear. Going fast isn't what is expensive anymore, going fast safely and legally is. I literately have more money invested in safety gear than my engine.

You'll need a real racing helmet before you even go, i forgot to mention that before. Even if it's an open face, you need a real snell rated helmet, NOT a dirt bike thing. Depending on your track, you might need a jacket, mine requires one for anyone in the 11's.


for tires i'd look at one of these for your aplication:

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s...tem=ETStreetSS

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s...ETStreetRadial

I agree with alky that two sets of wheels would be optimal, even if your drag wheels dont look pretty. I ran a set of those white wagon wheel trailer wheels for a year when i got started (i dont recomend that, but it's what i had).

for the rear end for you, i'd look into the S60 from strange or a 12 bolt of some sort. Your 700 has a 3.00 first gear, so a 3.73 would work good, if you plan on driving it alot on the highway, a 3.50 would be good, too. We have a hot rod with a 700/3.50 combo, and it works good on the street and track. Dont shift into od on the track, just 1-2-3.

After changing a rear gear (or anything else) I'd recommend calling your converter company to discuss if the changes in your combination warrants a change in the converter. Something I thought was BS I've learned to appreciate, and that is the converter makes or breaks the combo.

However, I recommend getting a helmet and going to the track and running what you got for now (except the tires, you'll have to make the call if they are safe or not).

Wolfster14

The guys have already given you some great advice.
One thing I would like to add is before you take it to the track, especially if it has been sitting for some time, it might be a good idea to go over the basics, make sure the car is mechanically sound. Brakes, belts, fluids, battery, shocks, tires, front as well the backs which you mentioned.
Nothing worse then going out your first time and having something simple keep you from having a great time.

Beeman

As much as I love my 3rd gen there's a reason you don't see many in stock form at the drag strip. The rear is the weak and expensive link. If you truly make 400hp and hook the tires you WILL break the rear.

86White_T/A305

Thats been my saving grace with having 600whp and the stock 9 bolt rear. Im on all season tires that dont hook till 2nd gear. I plan on putting toyo proxes tq on my spare rims this season and doing soft launches for now. Its the shock load that grenade the rear. I slip out the hole and then thor hammer down.

Beeman

• ^^^^ That's fun on T&T nite but if you want to actually race it doesn't do much for you.

90/81camaro

Good to know lol. By break the rear end you mean the gears? So I would have to just replace the guts or the whole rear end?


I'm still working out the kinks and making sure everything is in good shape before the first t&t which is April 17th. There's definitely a lot more work than I expected and more money to spend than expected and a month and a half doesn't seem like much time. But you all have given me useful information and its greatly appreciated.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Ok bud, I'm going to be brutally honest with you...
Keep what you have already heard in the back of your mind, but for now, get the car safe and ready to run, get a snell rated helmet and go to the track and have fun.

Your engine does not make 425 or 450 HP, sorry. Unless the PO owner handed you a dyno sheet, time slips and a box full of paper work, then it's a BS guess.

But don't worry about any of that yet. Yes the rear ends are weak on these cars. The fail point is the small ring and pinion gears (7.5") and the small axles. No way to fix the ring/pinion prob. You have to change the whole rear axle housing over to a ford 9", dana 60, or chevy 12 bolt... Again do not worry about that yet.

You need to know what you have now and see if you do need to look into X part. For all we really know you could have a 14 second car that will never break the rear end, or you could have a 10 second car.

You need to get to the track and just have fun right now. Then post up your time slips and we all can help guide you on the right path.

Hell, don't sink alot of money into it yet, you never been drag racing, you don't even know if it's your thing or not.

Go to some test and tune nights, you aint gonna break the car racing it a couple of weekends.

::Andy::

Hi from the UK,

Was in a similar position to yourself about 3-4 years ago, got my first Camaro and wanted to go cause havoc on the strip! Wish I had had such great advice as above.

I'll give you a number one tip though, do not be afraid to ask question and make friends there. You'll soon learn who the good crowd are and who the ones to avoid are as well. I've been around drag racing since I was ten but only participating in it for about 5 years, the friends you make at the strip are really what makes the sport and hobby great! Everyone is a character and (nearly) everyone is willing to help out, share advice and offer a hand! You just got to ask and be friendly haha!

I will also say, as your first time on the strip, be prepared for several things, go watch for about 30 mins, see how other people go about their start line procedure. You can spot those who know what they're doing and those that haven't a clue pretty quickly, try to be the one who knows what you're doing, you're going to make mistakes, but that's how we all learn.

When you pull up to the line, I wouldn't recommend a burnout on street tyres, particularly not BF Radials, they tend to go greasy as hell and won't help with traction. Also avoid rolling through the water box. If I had a £1 for every time I saw someone roll up to the start line after just casually taking a paddle in the water box and then dropping it all up the first 60'!

Most of all though, enjoy yourself! Whether you run a 16 or 10, you know what, you'll be hooked! As we say over here, it's worse than most illegal drugs, at least for them there is some sort of rehabilitation you can get, with drag racing it'll just bleed you dry!

no green

I twisted the splines in the axle, and crushed the crush sleeve. I was still running it when it started growling, i took it apart, counted my blessings, and bought an S60.

I missed the 1.94 heads part, i agree with night rider, 450hp is a stretch. Go out and try it. You'll get over the fear of breaking stuff after you've done it a few times.

67Blast

Tons of good info here. Here is a little more.
Most street cars and even a few race only cars have problems from time to time, dropping gravels, dirt, mud, etc., out of the fender wells upon launch at the track. Not only does it hurt your 60'&ET, but it also hurts the guy behind you.
So, clean your fender wells out.
I put," great stuff" foam in the front and rear corner of the fender lip and contour it to let that crap fall out, if my tires pick it up.
It wouldn't be a bad idea,if you havent been under the car much, to inspect the torque arm where it attaches to the transmission. Sometimes, the trans. will leak and make that bushing a gooey mess. If thats the case you'll need to replace it.
If its dry rotted. Replace it.
Run the tires you have, for now. If your not comfortable running them, find a set of used slicks that are all but worn out. Or use a set of worn out street tires.When you get confortable in the car and can "feel" what its doing right or wrong, you can start worrying about your rearend, tires, trans.,etc. The key is make it safe, but keep it simple. You'll more than likely be foot breaking the car, anyways. And unless your using a stick shift or a 3800 stall, the rear will last a while.
I know guys who have been faster on these 7.5" rearends, than I'd ever try. The guy I bought my 91 from had been 113 mph. in the 1/8th. with my car. And the trans. let go before the rear did.
Your rear gear will always be dependant on your trap rpm. Thats it.
You dont want to cross the finish line at 6800 rpms, if your peak power is at 5800.
And you dont want to cross at 5800 if your peak power is at 6800. Tire heigth and circumference plays a role in it too.
Figuring peak power out, without a dyno sheet is simply done by trial and error. And 200 rpms at the shift points can make a world of difference in ET.
When you get the car running and ready to go to the track, the first thing IMO, you should buy is a tell tell tackometer with a shift light.
Its just a tool. But a very good one for the budget racer and the professional racer as well. I run a digital one, but everyone has their preference.