WickedBowtie

redneckjoe

sure sounds healthy! kinda sounded like some tire slippage? what are you running for rear tires?

WickedBowtie

Thanks.

Brand new MT ET Pros DRs

WickedBowtie

Here is the pass when I let car shift on its own...a.k.a...the slowest pass ever.

redneckjoe

i've not had much luck with DRs. better than street tires though. i had 295/55/15's and switched to slicks. much better traction for me. i also noticed firming up the rear suspension helped a lot. when it was soft, traction suked. i guess every car is different.

WickedBowtie

What size slicks are those? They look pretty fat...lol

redneckjoe

they actually say, 10.0/27.0/15. hoosiers. but theyre actually closer to 26" tall, 12" of tread area & about 14" total outside. they stick out a bit and i dont like that. plans call to tub the rear very soon. soon as funs can afford some axles, i'm narrowing the rear about 4".


bought some cheapy steel wheels to put them on, lol.

WickedBowtie

Do you have a photo of them installed?

redneckjoe

i hate them sticking out. but traction is better, lol.

WickedBowtie

You don't have issues running circle track wheels?

redneckjoe

the only thing i had to change was the lug nuts. they use a different conical angle. i'll admit theyre heavier than aluminum. but i tried like 5 different tire shops and nobody could get the bead to seat on my 8" wheels.

also changed to a dual 3" exhaust. i had a dual 2 1/2", but it had a lot of bends in it. hoping to pick up a lil next time at the track. i guess we'll see?

WickedBowtie

Right on...looks good. Keep me posted.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

what in the hell is that exhaust? please explain the logic to me.

also, looks like circle track tires. they don't work well in a straight line.

redneckjoe

as i explained, my old exhaust had a lot of bends in it. this is mandrel bent, 3", stainless, (in the front), with a balance tube. its not finished with mufflers yet. just planning on some low restriction bullets. why? what problems do you see?

i got the tires used from a friend with a 850hp turbo LS 4th gen. he has a few sets i can get cheap used, over and over. why would you think they dont go well in a straight line? and as far as i know, theyre not circle track tires, he only drag races.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i'd be interested in seeing the stampings on the side of the tire to confirm it's a drag tire, cause it looks an awful lot like a circle track tire.

as for the exhaust, it may work, but it looks like the exhaust is going to have too many walls to crash into. i'd do an x-pipe or an h-pipe, not sure combination.

FirstBird

Wicked, your 6.99 goal is possible once you get your chassis sorted. However, you may want to consider going to different events and seeing where you fit in and build accordingly. I ran 7.5x on my first TNT. Found a bracket series with a 7.0-7.64 bracket. I knew I had room to grow. Next, buy a rule book. Build to that. Safety equip. will add weight. Once you figure that out you can determine how carried away you need to be with weight reduction. I recently added a weight box so could add weight!

My set up:

Forged 383 CR 10.8:1
750 Proform race carb
Victor Jr.
Comp Cams HR .600 lift
210 CC heads
Moser 9 inch
Race weight without me: 2890

My results:

7.5X (3.50 gear, 26 inch slick, 31 degrees of timing)
7.4X (just more timing)
7.3X (28 inch slick, 4.30 gear)
7.0X (changed from a 3800 stall 10 inch to Coan 5000 stall 8 inch)

In good air the car wants to run 6.9X with a best of 6.93. The car wanted slightly more stall, more gear (its loafing at the finish line), and carb optimization, but I can now run at the bottom of my bracket (the other guy gets to red light first), and without much ado I can run 7.0 index events. In my case, I haven't built a car that will run as fast as possible, but one that fits a goal and isn't being punished to get there.

WickedBowtie

So I'm kind of stumped here....started car up yesterday to clean out garage a bit. Let her run for about ten minutes and all was fine. I shut car off to clean garage...came back 2 hours later and she wouldn't start unless I held it to floor...and even then she would shut off right away...ok...so I pushed her in the garage and decided if mess with her today after work...well....I pumped the pedal one time only and proceeded to crank and she shot a large amount of fuel out of the top of the carb...I had also noticed that the driver side portion of the carb around the linkage was soaking wet with fuel. Any ideas where to start on this thing? I just went through it a few months ago and all has been fine since. Any input would be great...it is a 750 vacuum secondary chokeless carb.
..

redneckjoe

hows the float level look? possible sticking float?

WickedBowtie

Possibly...I'll check that out.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Yep, probably something in the float needle/seat. Do you have the bowl inlet filters?

Do you have a shift kit in the TH400? Should eliminate that 1-2 shift-on-its-own thing.

Nobody commented on your QP question. I got that kit a few years ago. The housing fabrication is good quality, even includes a drain plug. The torque arm mount leaves a lot to be desired - it takes up a lot of real estate, and those spherical ends allow the mount to move side-to-side. Supposedly they came up with a triangulating brace to fix the side-to-side problem, but it isn't listed as an option. Adjusting the pinion angle is a pain. You'll probably be okay with an aftermarket, non-adjustable TA like the BMR they offer at the bottom of the page. I destroyed an adjustable BMR, and a non-adjustable Jegster, before settling on an S&W 9" TA kit - that thing is stout.

My other nit with the QP 9" is they don't use axle seals - the sealed axle bearing is the "seal". Well, the bearing seal is designed for bearing grease, not gear lube. I had one side that constantly leaked until I found (with help) a seal that would fit inside their tube (a "standard" 9" axle seal won't work). To the best of my knowledge, they haven't fixed that design deficiency.

I would list the aftermarket axle assemblies available as S60, 9", 12-bolt in descending order. The advantage of the 9" is the huge aftermarket support, which dwarfs the other choices.

WickedBowtie

The bowl filters have been removed and yes it has a shift kit...and I could shift it manually unless I brought it up too high and then it would shift on its own. And thanks for all the input.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Put them back in.

Any idea which brand? Been awhile, but I believe mine was a TCI (may have been B&M). Seems I had to grind the sides of a slider valve as part of the kit install. Also eliminated a 2-3 shift check ball that tends to wear out clutch plates.

No problem. I like to hear myself type...

rb85TA

Did you figure out what's up with the carb?
If you are still using the detent cable:
The shifting may also be that the detent cable is not quite right, try adjusting it a hair.
I know a lot of people who run an adjustable torque arm, without any issues. If you brake one from BMR OR UMI or PA Racing, you probably have another issue, but all of them have been very helpful with me and my project & I believe that they would stand behind their products. JMO

WickedBowtie

It's the B and M stage 2...I didn't install it..a Trans shop did the rebuild and the kit...then went back through it because it was still shifting on its own.

WickedBowtie

Going through it tonight. Hopefully it's something easy.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

TH400's don't have a "detent" cable.

AlkyIROC

Springs hold the car up. Too stiff a spring and the suspension won't move. Too light a spring and the suspension moves excessively. I'd have to check but I either have 110 or 130 pound springs on the rear and I think they're 110 pound.

Shocks is what does all the work controlling the spring movement.

My car has a 4-link so I have a lot of adjustment points but only a small handful are actually useful. Technically, you want the IC right along the anti-squat line. Above the line and the car will want to raise the front end a lot. Below the line and the rear tires get driven hard into the ground but too much and you get tire shake. I know my IC is still too high. With a 4-link, you can actually put the IC below the ground level. Using the third gens torque arm suspension means you have little to no adjustment of the IC point.

For best performance, you want the IC long and low. This will drive the tires down into the ground for best traction. This will also look like the back of the car is lifting as the tires go down. Having adjustable shocks, you want them to extend quickly but offer more resistance when compressing. This will allow the tires to stay planted for a little longer.

When launching, the suspension should not compress as weigh tis being transferred to the rear. If the suspension compresses two forces are in action. Body is pushing down and diff is moving up. If the diff moves up, there is less traction for the tires. You see that a lot with open diff single wheel burnouts. It's always the right rear tire spinning because the diff is rotating and that tire is lifting off the ground.

Another good way to increase traction is an anti-roll (sway) bar on the rear. It will help keep both tires planted and prevent a lot of body twisting.

WickedBowtie

Right on. Thank you for all the information.

WickedBowtie

Cars back up and running again. Going to track tomorrow.

The carb had some junk in it and the plugs were fouled pretty bad. Good to go now.

WickedBowtie

Made it to track. Made 6 passes overall. The ink is so faded on these damn slips its not showing up hardly in pictures. Info below...

1st- 8.472
2nd- 8.387
3rd-8.347
4th-8.267
5th-8.133
6th-7.936

Only thing different is the rear springs and shocks and I played around with tire pressure and swapped my one inch carb spacer to a 2 inch.

Overall I'm happy. She got into the 7s...barely. The Trans was acting like it is supposed to. So that was good. I was launching anywhere from 2500 to 3000 on the FB. Rearend is still holding up good as far as I can tell.

I'm still spinning...not as much..but more than I want. My LCARBs should be here in a few days. And I'll remove shocks and try a different setting. I had them in 50/50 And tried to adjust them on car but just wasn't happening. Kind of crappy design.

My tach light and shift light both tapped out so I have no idea what I was shifting at...I bounced off of RL once and thsts set for 6800. I was mostly going off of feel and engine noise...lol....I'll dig into her this weekend and see what happened. All in all I am happy...

redneckjoe

congrats!
thats awesome!

WickedBowtie

Thanks bud

WickedBowtie

Been a productive day. Got the New Tach installed and wired up and also made an adjustment on the rear shocks from 50/50 to 40/60. LCARBS going on when they show up.

WickedBowtie

Got the LCARBs in mail. Might wait to install them until i can make a few passes with just the shock adjustment and then install them. I dont know yet..lol..Its taking everything i have to not go out in garage and burn them in.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

stock location still works even with them welded in place. go put them on.

WickedBowtie

Will do. Thanks.

WickedBowtie

Got them burned in.

WickedBowtie

Got New control arms in and installed.

redneckjoe

Looking good !!!

WickedBowtie

Thanks bud

WickedBowtie

Ok..so momma let me spend some money. I am ditching my 4th gen rearend for a 9 inch at third gen width. My question is now that I'm narrowing my axle back to stick width my current wheels won't work at 6.5 BS. I plan on keeping my 275 DRs so what BS am I going to need now? I don't want them to stick out at all. Thanks for any input.

rb85TA

I know that a 5.5" back spacing works with a stiff walled slick. You might be able to run a 6" bs with a radial.... not sure. You can run a 1" wheel spacer & a 5.5" bs rim, but if you're going to have to buy new rims.... just measure & buy what fits, JMO.
I would not recommend having the tires stick out past the wheel well lip, you'll have to stiffen the rear suspension so that the tire will not rub or get cut/gouged by the lip. If you have not already done so, here are a couple of ways to gain a little bit more clearance :
1) roll the wheel well lip, (some people have even cut the entire lip from the fender, to me it looks like sh_t, but if you roll the lip in leaving about 1/4" of the lip.... it looks good).
2) there's a big ugly azz bump in the middle of of the wheel well above the bump stop bracket & frame. Cut it out, be careful not to just burn through all the layers of metal ( there's 2-3 different layer's in different spots of the bump) you can successfully remove only the metal that bulges out into the area of the rim & tire, and still have metal there.
Side note, you are running aftermarket LCA'S, so you have gained a little clearance there already.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

6.5 will work. with stock width rear.. just get rid of the bumpstops and some side wall on the rear wheel wells.. easy easy..

WickedBowtie

Ok...I'll have to check once it gets here. Any pictures of that area I need to cut out so I can see for sure?

rb85TA

That's awesome to know, I was pretty sure that we could fit a 6" with the mods I mentioned, but 6.5" works much better for me,

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

check this link.. the gray inner sheet..can be done away with..its trash thin not worth keeping. just cut it out as one piece.. only cut upward from bottom about 4 to 4 1/2" keep the top of the spring and shock coverd. you will see I put a strap back in.. its up to you.i did it to keep the spring in it's seat/safty stop is all...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/whee...-6-5-back.html

rb85TA

I don't, but I'm sure someone does.
I promise, if you pull the rear wheel & look at the body of the wheel well directly above the rearend, you can't miss it.

WickedBowtie

How about a stock RS wheel 15x7 with 4.5 BS. Will that for my 275 safely and tuck in nice?

WickedBowtie

Will do bud. Thanks.

rb85TA

Don't know if a 275 will fit a 7" wheel????