Damon

I guess there's enough interest in this to post my expereince. I'd like to answer the most common questions up front:

What's it cost? About $1500 for a non-emissions kit, a few hundred more for an "emissions legal" one.

Will it clear my hood? No. The word "underhood" is misleading. On my Malibu it required a 2 1/2" Cowl hood and a really low profile air cleaner to make it fit- and my 'Bu has a more clearance to start with than a 3rd Gen. For a 3rd gen you better figure on a 4" hood if you want to be able to fit any decent sized air cleaner.

How difficult to install? Ever install an intake manifold? Not much worse than that. I did it in 6 hours by myself, going slow and listening to the game on the radio most of the time. I would go broke if I turned wrenches for a living.

How much power will it make? On a mild 350 you'll pick up about 100HP and about as much torque, maybe a little more, pushing about 6 PSI. I'd say the upper limit for the little 142 is about 500 HP (can't move enough air beyond that), but making 350-400 with it is like falling off a log. REAL HP. Not magazine hype numbers.

OK, if you care for the details, read on.....

I did the install of the Weiand 142 on my non-emissions 78 Malibu. It has a very very mild 383 in it that was built from day one to take a "power adder." Usually I do nitrous but I wanted something different. I run ~9:1 compression and a mild Crane blower cam (under 220* duration @ .050) and Dart Iron Eagle heads along with the usual bolt on stuff. I recommend you don't bolt ANY blower on a high compression N/A motor. It won't work well and you'll quickly break the motor. A stock carbureted low-output 305 or 350 (LG-4 or L-69) will easily take this blower kit. If you've got a mild "universal replacement" or "targetmaster" 350 in your ride it'll work great with that, too. Of course, the best situation is an engine built specifically for a blower from the start, but don't be too shy about tying it out on other engine combos. My 'Bu ran a 13.4 @ 107 in n/a trim with Qjet carb and aluminum intake before I put the blower on. I've done 2 other installations of this blower kit on other cars over the years, including a 3rd gen.

When choosing a kit you'll usually want a standard "long nose" kit to fit any small block built after about 1968 with a long-style water pump. The short nose kit is for older motors, some 'Vettes, other oddball combos. If you're into emissions compliance they actually make a kit for 3rd gens that allows retention of the smog pump, the EGR, computer controlled carb, etc, etc. This kit uses an "extra long" nose blower not used in any other kit. If you don't need to pass a visual test DON'T buy this kit- it's more money and doesn't really make any difference to what comes out the tailpipe itself. You can run either a QJet or Holley on top of the blower- it's dual-patterned. Holley 144 and Weiand 142 blowers are very similar kits- Holley bought Weiand a few years ago so I'm not sure why they still sell both kits but they do.

The kit comes with the blower, lower crank pulley, blower lower intake manifold, serpentine belt, various bolts, instructions and that's about it. It almost looks like they forgot to pack everything if you're used to seeing a centrifugal kit come out of the box!

Bolt on the lower crank pulley- easy. Just take off the stock crank pulley, put the blower drive pulley inside it like stacked cups and bolt it back on with supplied longer bolts. Monkey work. Simple. Long nose blower kits will work with 3-belt lower pulleys, short nose will only clear 2-belt pulleys in general, FYI.

Up top, install the blower lower intake manifold in place of your stock intake. This intake will ONLY fit an 86-down intake manifold bolt pattern. It could probably be modified to work with 87-up bolt pattern but NO WAY with Vortecs (sorry).

Drop in your distributor (yes, a big cap HEI or computer controlled HEI will clear the blower, no problem- that's what I use). Install the thermostat housing- but you MUST use a relatively low profile one or it will hit the blower snout later. ANY housing that has sensors sticking out the top, or screw-in plugs of any kind will NOT clear. A cheap chrome replacement housing with a smooth low-profile top is the cheap and easy way to go here.

Now put the blower-to-manifold gasket in place. I HIGHLY recommend you lightly coat this gasket with baby powder so you can reuse it if you ever have to take the blower off again. Put on the blower and drop the 4 HUGE bolts through the blower case holes and screw them into the lower intake to retain the blower. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THESE BOLTS! They are HUGE bolts but they require VERY VERY LITTLE torque- 10-15 ft/lbs. Less than "Spark plug tight." Not anywhere near "Gorilla tight." Overtightening will warp the blower case and cause catastrophic damage to the blower in only a few miles. Don't forget to check for lobe-to-case clearance with supplied feeler gagues!

Install the front end accessories. Your stock 3-point alternator upper bracket won't work. It won't line up with the bolt hole in the front of the intake manifold. This kit was designed a while back and GM moved stuff around quite a bit since then. DON'T drill the intake. DON'T follow their recommendation to call GM and order a bracket (it isn't available and the parts guy will laugh at you). Just go down and pick up a cheap chrome 2-point alternator bracket that just ties the alternator to the water pump with NO bolt into the intake. Trust me, you'll stay more sane this way. GUESS WHAT? You can keep your A/C! Yeah, if you've got a driver-side radial compressor setup like on my 'Bu there is the necessary bolt hole on the lower intake to install the support bracket that goes there! I'm reinstalling mine next summer!

You can put on the blower belt now. Amazingly, it clears the stock waterpump-driven clutch fan on my 78 by about 1/4" with NO changes. It probably won't work that well on a 3rd gen but you can buy fan shims to space the fan forward until you gain some clearance. You didn't think ANYTHING was actually a "bolt-on" did you? You'll do some work.

The only other major hassle left is the throttle and transk kickdown cable. Since you've just moved them up about 4 1/2" from their original location, you'll have braket and cable problems. THis is the only real PITA of the project. I took my intake manifold-mounted cable braket and chose to reuse it by cutting the bracket, spacing it up the 4 1/2" I needed and then welding it back together. Holley guys can buy brackets that simply bolt to the back of the carb, but Qjet guys will find these brackets difficult to find (impossible?). The throttle cable hooked right up but the trans kickdown cable is now too short to reach all the way up there from the Trans. Not to worry, many companies make adjustable length kickdown/TV cables for various transmissions. I bought one from B&M for my TH-350. You don't need to dig into the trans too far on a TH350 to replace it. 700R4 O/D trans might be another story, though. Manual trans guys can mercifully disregard this whole paragraph!

So now we're down to tuning issues.......

Do I need to rejet my carb? No. Generally not. This isn't a blow-through setup like a centrifugal. There is no boost above the lobes- only below them in the intake manifold. If you're the nervous type then jet up a couple of sizes to stay a little on the rich side. QJet guys I'd recommend you installa set of "DR" rods and a "B" hanger for starters. If you are the nervous type or have a few more cubes to feed then go with a set of "DA" rods and a "B" hanger. THis applies even if you are using the computer controlled QJet for emissions compliance or just to be weird (yes, you can maintain stock computer control of your carbureted engine even with this blower installed!! In fact, it works beautifully!)

Do I need to back my timing down? Depends on a lot of stuff. Generally, on a near-stock low compression motor, no. This thing doesn't make that much boost or intake heat. Again, if you're the nervous type why not back it down 4* and work from there gradually. I run 10* initial timing, 30* total, all in by about 2800 and have no detonation on pump gas at 4 PSI. Yes, I still run vacuum advance (12* max) from the same port on the carb as always since the carb never sees boost- only vacuum, just like on a N/A motor. Certainly, it's better to stay conservative than to run a blown motor on the ragged edge. I run an MSD setup on my HEI and run about .042" plug gap (on a slghtly colder plug) but a stock HEI can still get the job done if you back the gap down to around .035" or so.

How much boost am I making? Again, depends. There is a port on the lower intake where you can attach a boost gague and measure it for yourself. My 383 with decent heads outruns the blower so that with the supplied pulleys I only get about 4 PSI of boost. There are different sets of pulleys available but the 142 only has one set that is HIGHER boost than the supplied stock pulley. Stock pulley overdrives the blower at 1.92:1 (the set I'm getting 4 PSI with). The only higher boost set avaialbe is a 2.1:1 set that should get me back up to about 6 PSI actual boost and, I figure, somewhere around 450 HP. Any higer and overdrive and you'll exceed the blower's maximum safe speed, which is why that's as high as they go. Those putting this kit on a little 305 might have the opposite problem- too much boost. Like any non-intercooled supercharger things get dicey when you get up over 6-7 PSI. Especially a roots blower that makes full boost from the instant your pedal hits the carpet! Fortunately, there's plenty of pulleys available to lower the boost for you.

What's it drive like? Well, like it's not even there most of the time. There is almost no blower whine- a little bit when the blower is cold- the synchronizer gears in the front of the case sing a little but are dead-silent after they warm up. You only get noise when you open it all the way up. A very unnatural sound. Like "...zzzzzzzzzZZZZZZZZZZZ!!!!" on up through each gear, clearly audible over the FLowmasters. And, of course, it gets from A to B a lot faster than before. I haven't had mine to the track since the blower install but by calibrated butt tells me I'm running about 12.5-12.6 and 114-115 MPH now with only 4 PSI, on street radials. I can rip up near-stock LS-1s pretty easy. Laying down 50 ft of rubber on a downshift at 25 MPH and then all the way back up into 2nd gear is likewise, pretty easy.

There's a pic of my installed blower in the sticky thread of power adder pics at the top of this forum on page 3. It's a rough shot, immediately after I first got it installed- not cleaned up at all.

Christos

Make this a tech article please!

Good stuff here. The only thing which confuses me is the price.

Is it really that inexpensive?

Damon

Yeah, it really is that cheap. $1500 is the base "satin finish" long nose 142 SBC blower kit (Summit, on sale late last year). Polished units are more. Emissions units are more. And so are kits with different length blower snouts. But don't forget to add $200 for a cheap cowl induction hood, $400-500 for a high quality one. Plus paint. Driving without a hood is not legal in most (all?) areas of the country.

I used a Harwood bolt-on Fiberglass one with 2 1/2" height for about $400 on my 'Bu. I still only had room for an aircleaner that is 14 x 2 1/2" on a 1 1/2" drop base and it's STILL so tight that I can't use a wingnut on the top of it- it would hit the hood!

Drowned

This is the best post ever! Thanks for the great information. Please make this a tech article... please! There is no doubt I'll be getting a 142 for my car now

86SCBNJ

What about lube?? What kind and how often do u change it

84TAProject

This is the post Ive been looking for forever. How about for the 177, is it just as simple as you say? When I tear my motor down Im gonna rig it up for a blower, so I can get decent power. You cant run say 8lbs of boost with the 142? Hood clearence isn't really a problem, I have a hood I bought explicitly for ripping a hole in. Definetly make this a tech article.

Kingtal0n

The size of the engine is the biggest factor in how much boost you will see. The bigger the engine, the less boost from a 142/144 blower. Another huge factor is cam timing, going from 114 LCA to 110 LCA dropped my boost almost 2 PSI from 8 to 6. Then putting a less restrictive exhaust dropped it from 6 to 5. and THEN going from a 850 blower carb to a 650 DP it went from 5 to 4.5~5 PSI. As you can see, I went from 8 PSI to 4.5 PSI simply by changing a few things on the same engine, a 355 chevy.

Oil changes: Use synthestic and change the blower's oil once every 10-15K Miles. the paperwork says every 3K, but the holley techs agree that you can go alot more. To change it you have to take the blower off because otherwise you cant drain it... So i got a few extra blower to manifold gaskets to aid the process. Using baby powder is a GREAT Idea and it will help you re-use it, but i find putting red permatex UNDER (manifold side) of this gasket also helps keep it still and seal it much better. I had fuel leaks from under this gasket until I added the permatex.

A 144 on a radical 355 with good exhaust and decent flow characteristics making roughly 400~ horsepower N/A Will see about 5 PSI of boost from abrand new 144/142 blower with the biggest pulley Holley/weiand Sells. The horsepower will also jump roughly 100. (in the UP direction) like Damon said. I've done quite a few of these blower installs myself and everything Damon said is very good advice and completelly true from my experience. Damon is VERY Knowledgable on the subject. I found that the carbeurator will need a little jetting up however, and a manifold referenced power valve will also gain you about 4-5 MPG on the highway! using 93 Octane fuel I was getting 18 MPG With a holley 850 Blower carb, 48* of total timing, 9:1 compression, with a steady speed of 70~ mph and 3,000 RPMS... No overdrive.
So fuel economy CAN be maintained.

I will recommend one thing however, If your building a 355 or bigger engine and plan on making more than 400~ horsepower (after the blower) I recommend you spend the extra $200 and upgrade to weiand's 177 Blower. The extra cubes in the blower will help your engine reach its potential as well as give room for upgrades later and give you the kind of boost #'s you will want to see if/when your setup for a blower. I sold my 144 about 2 weeks ago because 4 PSI just isnt enough. A 177 is coming next, I want to see at least 8 PSI on my motor, But im setup for a blower. Under full Boost I would take out about 7~* of timing, for a total of 30* (the highway timing is with vacuum advance)
You do NOT want to run more than 32* of timing under boost, it has been proven time and time again the horsepower increase is NOT worth the engine damage that results! These blower get your engine <b>HOT</b> Just by adding the blower to my motor IT ran 30* Hotter and on the highway would creep up to 240*! My cooling system needs a HUGE Upgrade, I am using the stock radiator, stock water pump, but some nice flex-a-lite electric dual fans. Now without the blower my engine never sees above 170* so you can see that blowers add HEAT and alot of it.be prepared to upgrade your cooling system if you still have stock and add a blower!

Damon

I will try to submit this as a tech article and include some other info in it at that time. Like I have a pulley ratio calculator that has all the Weiand pulley sizes in it and a boost "approximator." In anyone wants that info, feel free to email me.

Please note that the Weiand 142 and Holley 144 blowers are very similar but NOT identical. Intakes are a little different and they use different belt tensioning methods. They both have pulley ratios that are about the same, the Holley maybe having jsut a bit more "headroom" on a larger cube motor. But the Weiand blower is cheaper to buy.

Also, the Holley 144 can be had in a kit to install on TBI-powered early 90s trucks. Why would you care? Well........ those motors used an 87-up intake bolt pattern, for you guys looking to put one of these on a later model (87-up) engine. Talk to Holley about this before you select a kit. Still no Vortec intake, however.

The blower lube is no big deal- I just use GL-5 gear lube like you'd use in your rear end. Synthetic would be a nice upgrade especially if you plan on over-spinning the blower. It's only rated for 5500 RPM redline. I regularly go to 6000. One strange thing I noticed is that the blower is shipped with lube in the gear case BUT NOT ENOUGH! MINIMUM level is to the bottom of the sight glass and it doesn't make it that far. I had to add a couple ounces of GL-5 to bring it up. Better to overfill SLIGHTLY, lose a few HP to parasitic drag but make sure everything is WELL oiled. THen change interval, like Talon said is not that critical.

The 177 blower is similar but not the same. To start with- your carb will sit a full 2" higher than on the 144. You'd be hard pressed to fit that under a cowl hood. Other than that, the install would be very similar. The 177 mounts to the lower intake differently but that's about it. Same carb and distributors would work.

Damon

I submitted this as a tech article yesterday, updated, cleaned up and with a bunch of other info not included in the original post. We'll see if they want it.

GlenYappa

Man it was nice to see this article. I am building a new 4 bolt 350 for my '84Z and I do have to pass emmisions. I bought the long neck version after talking with Holley. I needed to clear a 3 v-belt water pump pulley. The kit they told me to buy didn't clear. I was short about an inch. Turns out they have a special neck for this application but they didn't tell me about it before I ordered. After some lengthy phone calls they sent me another neck and crank pulley. Everything fits great now. I had my SC crank pulley machined down slightly to fit inside a March polished aluminum 3 v-belt crank pulley. Each time I also had to have the SC crank pulley shortened about 1/8 in. to line up perfectly with the pulley on the neck. I have heard from other people that the SC didn't ship with enough oil. I also lost some oil when I changed the neck. Good to hear the alternator bracket didn't line up for someone else. I couldn't understand what I had done wrong. The only issue I have now is that the hole for the distr. is larger than the collar on my distr. Holley claims this is by design but it just doesn't seem right. My engine is far from cranking but it was built from the ground up for this blower and to pass emmisions. BTW I am using the stock QJet with the stock computer but I would like to ditch it for something else.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Damon

Glen- I'd love to hear your experiences with the computer controlled QJet and such when you get it all sorted out. What sensors had to be relocated, bypassed, how the EGR worked out, etc.

Strange about the distributor hole. Mine fit just like stock. I am using an HEI distributor, so it should be the same with your computer controlled one, I would think. That's super odd.

Doesn't look like they want this as a tech article, unfortunately. Submitted a while ago but haven't heard anything back.

Drowned

This needs to be a tech article! I can't believe they are not responding!

SMITHDUKE

I know this thread is pretty old but I thought I might add something in case people are still using it as a reference when installing a weiand 142.

First lets shed some light on a blower and carb. The blower is always pulling a vacuum on the carb. This means even when you go WOT there will always be vacuum present at the carb. Hooking up a vacuum advance to the carb will keep it advanced and it will never retard. I set my base timing and advance timing to total around 32 degrees. The one thing I do like so many others is hook my advance to the manifold that way when you go WOT it will retard the timing during boost. Believe me, you want this. Having the advance at manifold vacuum will also help keep the engine cooler.

The next area is the transmission modulator if you are running a trans that has one. The same rule applies. If its hooked up to the carb it will not shift right. Hook it up to the manifold as well.

PCV and Brake Booster are about all you will put to the carb or in my case the 1" spacer below the carb. My carb does not have any vacuum ports

Lastly the Carb. I have heard of people running a regular carb on a blower but I don't like taking chances so I run a boost referenced carb and get my vacuum to the boost reference ports from the intake just like the trans modulator and the vacuum advance unit.

The Weiand 142 blower manifold only has 1 vacuum port on the drivers side so I went between cylinder 4 and 6 intake ports and drilled down into the top of the intake and then cross drilled into the intake plenum. I then tapped 1/8" NPT threads. That area on the intake has a small port cast into it on the inside but it does not meet the center so thats why i cross drilled into it with a 1/4" bit. The next hole I drilled was starting on top of the #4 intake port and then tapping it with the same threads. I added a -4 AN Tee and put that one in the hole between cyls 4 and 6 and ran my vacuum hoses up to my boost reference ports on the carb. You use whichever of the other 2 for vacuum advance and trans modulator.

My apologies in advance if this information was already posted somewhere else.

Kingtal0n

I feel like, If there is a vacuum present "at the carb" then the carb is undersized. Install a larger carb, get a larger hole, and the pressure differential should be less as it will flow more volume of air at the same the pressure. The same exact thing applies to air filters; as they clog with filth (or are undersized), vacuum signal increases after them. I have been told that some vehicles have gauges which read in inches of water ( I add them to my vehicle if it does not have one ) after the air filter which can help you tell how clogged or undersized your filter is. I also use this kind of gauge for analyzing PCV performance, as during wide open throttle, especially in front of a turbocharger, you want some vacuum signal here (pre compressor) to drive the PCV system during WOT. If the post filter (pre compressor) area has no vacuum signal (same pressure as atmospheric) then there will be only atmospheric PCV action (as if you had only an atmospheric filter on the crank case) since there will be no pressure signal to drive PCV action.

I would also add that if using a manifold pressure signal to drive ignition advance systems or other pressure monitoring systems not intended for positive manifold pressure, you would want to use a boost/pcv check valve, just in case any sensitive monitoring device would be damaged by the XXpsi of boost pressure you intent to run through it. I am not aware of any that are damaged; but it is something to keep in mind, a diaphragm may not be anticipating 30psi of boost pressure (only expecting 0psi).

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Not too many members go this route for some reason. Would love to see a build here of a roots blows engine, but in this case the LSX has the major advantage over the SBC in terms of keeping it under the hood. Nice write up btw, never came across it before...

Vanilla Ice

I would if it fit under the hood. Roots blower is my preferred boost app. Nothing better for a street car.

For that reason and the fact that a turbo can be done for almost half the price is probably why they aren't common. 15 years ago they were on par price wise with turbos and a viable option.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Everyone and their grandmother had a 142, 144 or 174 blower at one point. They were cool when running 12s was cool.

They don't make enough power.

We used to call them "hood ornaments". Whenever you saw one sticking out of the hood, the guy was guaranteed to run around a 12.50 at 110mph.

-- Joe

Vanilla Ice

I think we were both speaking of roots blowers in general. Not the bottom of the barrel setup.

SMITHDUKE

Indeed, all this is true, however, if you hook up your trans modulator to a carb sitting on top of a blower it will not function right and the same goes for the power valve in the carb. They are both looking for a loss of vacuuum at wot and it will do just the opposite. I run manifold vacuum to my advance for 2 reasons. The engine runs cooler when at idle, the colder plugs being used for the blower don't foul when at idle because of the advance. Some such as myself may not want to run a huge carb for mild street use. I want my power down low because I will never see the track with my 34 Chevy coupe. I am using the Holley 600 HP. My motor is a bone stock 350.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

What's a good one? A 4-71 or 6-71 is not for a street car. Anything smaller makes no power.

To make 600hp you need a 250 cubic inch blower. That's a huge case.


-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Roots blowers are still very common, but not with the SBC crowd because they are still based from a carburetor standpoint. Had Weiand offered one with injector bungs and an elbow for the throttle body then it might have been a different story once upon a time, but the demand has since seized. Even the centrifugal superchargers are going the way of the dinosaur for the SBC crowd with every passing day. I just got my hands on a C6 again, not sure which way I am going with it. I thought about an F1X, but am now leaning towards a Magnacharger. No more turbo's for me, the GTA is the last turbo car I will own aside from my LTZ Cruze...

BTW Vanilla, you're better off rewriting $8F, just need to compensate for the DIS...

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Do they make an SBC magnacharger ?

I know the corvette guys have been pulling impressive numbers with them, and I suspect if you had DIS, you could fit one without distributor clearance problems.

Something with an LSx throttle body would be nice.

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

No I wish they did make one for the SBC family Joe, they should have from the getgo. Although tig welding in injector bungs into the base of the 142/144 is doable. Last magnacharger I had the pleasure in videoing was from the GTO boards here at e-town, I don't remember how much he hit it with nitrous that day, but it was a pretty fast GTO. Had no idea what it was going to run until he unleashed it, very impressive back then. Haven't heard from Frank in awhile, but I was told he went much faster with the magnacharger since then. Time freaking flies.

I mentioned $8F because he is yet another one looking to address a boosted $8D code in a thread that he started. He might have been unaware that GM put a boosted Speed Density code out with the '90 GTP, he would just need to invert the timing numbers because of the $8F DIS, then redo the fueling. It's batch fire to boot, and written up to 2-Bar...

http://www.streetfire.net/video/franks-gto-iii_687144.htm

Vanilla Ice

What I'm saying is that it's impossible to find one that suits my needs for many reasons, not just was said. I am going to turbo this car.

As far as $8f its for an auto. No matter which way I go I have to rewrite stuff. Might as well stick with what's running my car now and alter it to suit my needs. I have plenty of time to do it. But this is all for a different thread.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Not too many differences between manual vs auto w/$8D, save for only a few. I just glanced at them again in Tuner Pro. As for rewriting, this is why I mentioned $8F, it is already written up to 2-BAR, as well as running batch, you just need to alter the timing from its' DIS setting to HEI, as well as the fuel injector values depending on engine and injector size. Unless.... you just enjoy tuning, and are looking to write code as your own and work from there, different story. In either case, $8F is your friend, already written up to 2-BAR and already written for boost control. Will be way more easier to adapt a manual setting to $8F as opposed to adapting 2-BAR and boost control to $8D, but I digress.

Damon won't mind, the topic is boost oriented anyway.

Vanilla Ice

It's kind of my thing. I wrote on the fly mode switching for WRXs, anti lag and rotational idle, valet mode and injector killswitch, ethanol sensing, a shiftlight, displacement on demand (needed valve part) and a bunch more I can't think of. Just for fun.

RamIt

This Maggie 122 had no problems making 500hp. Can run efi to boot.

http://www.hotrod.com/cars/featured/...d-350ci-chevy/

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Yup. But that is slow by today's standards



-- Joe

RamIt

Slow is subjective.
473 "average" fpt would make a really fun street car.

Vanilla Ice

Yeah 500 hp out of a roots would be an incredible torque "curve."

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I guess.. I mean, we all had them when we were younger. They were cool in the early 90s.

When I got my first vortech in 2001 it spanked the B&M blower I had and it fit under a stock hood. I do like the simplicity of the roots blowers, but the sticking through the hood part makes it a problem.


If they made a 250 cubic inch roots style that fed from the front or rear with a throttle body mount, that would be nice. But they don't.

The J-Trim I have right now (http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/page.php?id=30009) Is rated at 1,100 hp.



-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I would think that slow would be more objective. Not to mention, 500 horsepower in a 2500 pound car is a solid nine second car in the 1/4 mile with a good launch. That is very fast for the street, too fast to be any fun. I think the youtube vidoes out there has everyone clamoring for 1000 horsepower, when 500 - 600 horsepower is more than enough for the street, because then it is just a matter of trimming the fat to go faster...

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Who has a 2500lb car? I'm like 3800 with me in it.

Even my vette is at least 3600.

BTW 500 fwhp isn't putting a 2500lbs car in the 9s. 500 whp might put you at a 9.90 @ 135mph or so, but we're talking about 500 fwhp with those little roots blowers. Subtract your driver, even a girly man at 160lbs, where are you finding a 2,340lbs car ?



-- Joe