zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

I finally pulled the trigger. Here is the parts list:

-Turbonetic T7875 BB turbo good for 1100hp as advertized.
-Precision 46mm WG with assorted springs.
-Tail 50mm Blow off valve with assorted springs.
-Tread Stone IC PN-TR1245, flows 1469 CFM with less than 2psi drop at max flow, good for 1000hp.
-1 x 3.5" Stainless steel v-bands with clamp.
-1 x 3" Stainless steel v-band with clamp for hot side of turbo.
-2 x 2.375" Stainless steel v-bands with clamps for cross over.
-1 x 4" straight pipe 3ft. Aluminized steel.
-2 x 4" 45* bends Aluminized steel.
-1 x 4" 90* bend Aluminized steel.
-2 x 3.5" 45* bends (Going to return for Stainless steel).
-1 x 3.5" 90* bend (Going to return for Stainless steel).
-1 x 3.5' to 4" merge for 3.5" DP to 4" exhaust.
-1 x 3" to 3.5" merge for 3" hot side from turbo to 3.5" DP.
-2 x Moroso weld-in nipples for crank case evac.
-Accel 3-Bar Map sensor.
-AN-4 feed line 3ft and AN-10 return line 18" with adapters.
-3" Extreme Velocity carb hat.
-BBS Turbo header.
-Coated SLP 1.75 primary header for driver side.
-DEI Titanium turbo blanket and assorted width Titanium rap for turbo header, DP, and cross over pipe.
-For tuning, EBL from Dynamic EFI it's good for 30psi boost. Thanks Rob for the great customer service!

Things I need

-80lbs injectors.
-plumbing for cold side.
-Boost gauge with three gauge pod from Auto Meter.
-Battery re-location kit.

I should be starting very soon, I still have to repair the damage a deer caused to my 92' Z28 three weeks ago. Got to love full coverage insurance. But here are some pics of the goodies so stay posted.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

2 more pics.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Sorry

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

is that wastegate gonna be big enough?

Javier87z28

iTrader: (1)

some nice goodies man!! wow a deer, and they did not total the vehicle?

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

From what I've been told it should be fine for my goals, but you know how that goes. You always want more.

Oh no they tried. I told them I don't think so, I pay my premiums just like everyone else.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Nice parts list. Should make some decent power.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

That is a healthy list and looks good.

Did you ask BBS if that turbo will fit under the hood with that turbo?
What is the Moroso Crankcase weld-ins for? You will have more exh pressure than crankcase pressure.
What is the carb hat for? Is this an 8 injector intake or something else?

Most importantly, How many points on the deer?

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

1. Yeah, it will fit fine.
2. I already had the Moroso Evac kit on my car so I had to buy new nipples to weld-in to the 4" exhaust right where the cat would be.
3. Yes I am still fuel injected, I have a Accel Pro-Ram intake with a 1200 CFM TB. Extreme Velocity carb hat is the best in the business.
4. It was a juvenile deer and it scared the living daylights out of me, because I never saw the deer until I hit it from the side. It's all good insurance company gave me over $2700.00 for the repairs. Of course I'm fixing it for less than $1200, so the rest went to the turbo build.

I just got back from summit, I had to swap all the 3.5" exhaust tubing for Stainless steel because the standard Aluminize will not hold up to long for the DP.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

How long you expect this system to last and will you be driving it in inclement weather? I'm at 5 yrs on mild steel for headers and still living fine because they dont get wet and dont rust. Most Everythin else is 409 stainless because i used to get it for cheap. Other parts of the exhaust system were mild steel and not coated and held up fine.

Stainless is nice tho if you can afford it. I couldnt justify it for my build lol

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Stainless is a PITA to weld.

-- Joe

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yeah i only have a budget mig so i stick with mild steel as much as possible

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

My mig welds on mind come out better than my tig welds on stainless...

I'll probably build my next turbo header out of mild steel.

-- Joe

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Like said mine has been fine and its only 16 ga. Next time i may try 10-11 ga if they have 1.75" pipe. Else schedule 10. Ultimate durability

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Are the trickflow heads angled and raised exhaust like my AFR's?

That BBS manifold does NOT work with angled AFR's. Also, T76 just kisses the hood.

I cut it all up and redid it.

The inside diameter of the WG pipe is only 35mm, so the larger WG isn't really gonna help. The odd location of off the #2 primary isn't ideal.

-- Joe

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I find stainless is about the same or a bit easier to TIG than mild. And it doesn't lake out as much so you can get narrower beads, and use less total heat if you move quickly. Just back-purge it to do it right

But mild works just fine for turbo setups, and it expands less so that a plus. I cant justify the money on stainless, it's just not worth it for what us weekend guys do. Even then, aside from the corrosion factor it's really not better at all if you compare it to a good coated/wrapped mild. I would like to try a 4130 set

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

I hear what you are saying and I want this set up to last along time. I believe you had a BBS manifold at one time! So you know he made his header out of schedule 30, so I'm good to go. My goals are not as ambitious as yours, but I still want to turn heads. So what's wrong with wanting quality parts and the only thing that's stainless is the DP form the turbo to the 4" mufflex connecting where the cat would be. Even my crossover is mild. steel.

The BBS manifold will work with angled heads. Remember I have the original design not the knock off. I do not have any issues with the plugs. You also moved your turbo forward a good three inches it looks like so your turbo would be closer. I should be good there too.

I've been studying your build thread along with many others and I plan to make the modification to #2 and add 1.75 schedule 10 steel for the WG.

Here are some pics of the header mounted a angled plug head.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

For the three pieces of stainless I purchased, it only cost me about $13.50 more over aluminzed. I think that's plenty worth it IMO.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

what grade of stainless is it?

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

It's just 16 gauge nothing special. Just a step up from aluminized.

Why is everyone making a big deal that I chose to use stainless for the DP? I'm confused!!!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Not a big deal just didnt make sense to me if everything else is mild steel. Thats all

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I moved the turbo forward so I could redo the #2 primary, and have the WG flange off the front of the log. I dropped it down a hair so I had more hood clearance. In it's original position, my T76 just rubbed the hood ever so slightly. Of course moved forward, I then had to use a 90* bend for the air cleaner.

The knockoff is almost identical to the BBS manifold, except the welds are better. The #8 tube in your picture is different though, looks more swept back. My exhaust ports are raised (AFR) which is another problem.

My biggest issue right now is the crossover is too close to #6. I'm probably going to make a new header over the summer.


-- Joe

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

The whole reason I went stainless on the down pipe was at the advise of a few friends that build turbo systems for a living and one of those guys is doing all my welding. He said to go stainless just on the DP for durability until it goes under the car then go with aluminized in the location of the cat.

So now that you know why I went stainless, that should clear that up. Because originally I had all mild steel if you look at the parts list and photos. But everyone is entitled to their opinion.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I was just curious where to get some if it's cheap! Nothing wrong with it, it looks real nice!

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Got all stainless from summit.

NemeSS-TyranT

iTrader: (1)

In my opinion it is not much more to go stainless. I would agree w your welder.
I am also in the same business. And ss is really not that much more than mild steel.
I do however weld more mild steel on conventional exhaust systems. But on the turbo stuff im working on and have done. The price was not much more for the ss material. I get the material from same supplier. Another added bonus is that imo a ss kit will have a better re sale value if you decide to sell.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Turbo install is complete, now waiting on 80lbs. injectors that should be here by Friday hopefully. Also I'm going back to the exhaust shop to redo the cross over in mandrel bends because I didn't have any last Friday. So far the tune is spot on not under boost of course. Here are some pics. I'll take more pics of the exhaust this Friday while it's on the lift.

86trbota

Lookin good

quadgoat

iTrader: (1)

Looks good to me!!

scamaro355

Im glad i saw this after ive been told an 88 most likely wouldn't fit. Looks great cant wait to see some times and dyno runs. Also where did you come acrossed that bbs manifold

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

He's running a 78.

-- Joe

scamaro355

Oops. Read that wrong..

MEAN LT1

Looking good man.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Lookin good

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Such a clean install. Kinda makes me want to scrap mine and start over again.

-- Joe

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the kind words fellas, it really means a lot. The car pulls like a rapped ape at 10lbs., but I have a little boost creep to 12lbs. So I may need a bigger WG after all, otherwise cars runs great.

MEAN LT1

Updates?

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

My boost creep issue is resolved. I modified the WG location by adding a straight section of schedule 10 2.375 inside diameter pipe and modified the #2 primary. The reason I went with 2.375 inside diameter was just in case I needed to upgrade to a bigger gate. I'm currently running 6psi, but I still need to get injectors, I'm still running 42lbs. My injector duty cycle is currently 93% and AFR is holding steady @11.1, so turning up the boost is out of the question

I may hit the track tonight and test it out?

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Update: I got a chance to hit the 1/8 mile, but I had a boost leak at the carb hat. It's fixed now with a new o-ring from Extreme Velocity. Anyway here is the verdict on 3lbs. of boost:

60ft.- 1.69
594ft.- 6.879
1/8 ET- 7.284
1/8 MPH- 95.59

I noticed in the EBL data log that the AFR was 10.4 to 10.6, but the DC was all over the place because of the boost leak. The boost would spike to 5lbs and then go to 3lbs. So I 'm hoping to hit the track this weekend because it's holding 6lbs. now. I have to get use too the turbo lag though.

I did play with the manual boost controller this morning when I went to class and turned it up to 10lbs. All I got to say is, why did I wait so long to go turbo? Car brakes loose at 75mph. CRAZY. I'll see how long my 700r4 last and I still need to get those 80lbs. injectors.

quadgoat

iTrader: (1)

Nice numbers for only 3psi!!!

-Paul

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

I kinda got upset when I saw the time slip because I ran 7.2x to 7.3x all day when I was NA. Of course I had way better 60ft's and my MPH was 92 to 93 MPH, but then I saw the data log and that explained alot.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Update: Well I pulled the motor in October to have it refreshed, install boost friendly pistons, and a custom cam from Martin at Tick Performance. The motor has been in the car for 11 years and I did hear a slight knock at start up only, but then it progressively got worse while I was tuning with the turbo, so I just pulled it to salvage what I have.

It's a good thing I did, because the number 4 main bearing was the cause of the knock and I caught it before it could spin. When I took the main cap off the bearing fell out and when I lifted the crank the upper bearing fell out with no resistance. I know exact time when I hurt the number 4 main bearing too; it was when my oil pick up cage/screen broke off after I had a driver front tire blow out on the highway and my car bottom out smacking my headers and the bottom of the car on the ground breaking the pick up cage/screen off of the tube drawing air into oiling system.

Anyway, the remaining rod and main bearings looked good with no signs of uneven wear or cooper showing. The #4 main had copper on the bottom bearing pretty bad, but the top was just starting to show. I was really lucky I didn't scratch up that journal. The rotating assembly to include the balancer, and flex plate are at the machine shop getting checked and balanced. The crank looked really good for being in the car after 11 yrs of hard nitrous use and then the turbo. I think I can get away with just a polishing of the crank for sure because I measured them and they are still with in specs of stock 350 mains. I'm dropping the block off when I get the rotating assembly back. Money is tight around here.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Good to see you're still going at it. Gorgeous car. Any more photo's of it?

Jay

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Oh yeah I'm still at it, some times life just happens and the toys have to wait. Thanks for the kind words, I do have more pics of the car but they are on my other computer. And I also plan to take photos of the engine assembly. Your car is looking good too, but of course what 3rd gen camaro with ZR1's don't?

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Good news, the machine shop finally got to my rotating assembly this past Friday afternoon and the machinist said that the crank was in excellent shape for being 11 years old and only require a polishing. So that saved me some cash. It should be done sometime this week for sure, I'll be sure to post up some picks as parts come together.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Good news! Cant wait to see some updates on it.

Jay

YenkoST

iTrader: (5)

Looks good bud! Can't wait to see what it does this time!

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Thanks YenkoST, it's a work in progress.

UPDATE: Well I got the rotating assembly back from the machine shop last Friday, it balanced out real nicely and I also have the balance sheet for my records. I hope to have more updates by next week.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Update: Making progress, but suffered a huge set back. I had the block checked and my #4 main cap was cracked. That's what caused my bearing failure. I was amazed that those cast main caps lasted 11 yrs. Well here is a pic of the rotating assembly after I picked it up from the machine shop. I'm getting another 880 4 bolt block from summit already prepped for 383 or 355, but I'll have the main caps replaced with Howards Billet caps and have it re-line bored and honed. No matter how you look at it, this is the best way price wise to accomplish what I want in the end. A Dart SHP block is out the question for me at this time and cheapest I've seen a 1-piece rear main seal Dart SHP block was over $1700 with cast main caps too. So I don't think so!

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Update: Finally got my block from Summit. They had to ship it from their Nevada store because it is out of stock everywhere else. Well I dropped the block of at the machine shop to have the Howard billet main caps line bored, it should be done this week sometime.

I did manage to install a 4th gen fuel tank because my old one was leaking at the filler neck pretty bad not allowing me to top off on gas. And plus the sending unit opening is a lot larger than the 3rd gen tanks also allowing me to install my dual Walbro fuel pumps easier. Here are some pics of my trap door access panel for the pumps, modified sending unit with -8 AN adapter feed/ -6 AN adapter for return, and Racetronix dual fuel pump coupler. I had a -6 AN adapter welded to the other end to simplify the install. I think it turned out nicely.