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Missed the Fun Fest in Essex last weekend because I forgot about it. Sounds like you're having fun though. Mine's up in the air in the garage now. Should be out next year.
Did you end up fabricating some type of support to help support the "crown" of the front bumper? I am contemplating building something up with 3/8" rod, electrical conduit or similar to support mine. I gutted the center section of the impact bar similar to you when I mounted my intercooler.
Are you talking for the little tabs that use to clip into the bottom of the support? I had to cut those off the facia since the intercooler was in the way. If you are talking in between the headlights i kept that panel in tact. No mods at all to that.
I was thinking more of the plastic crate for the leading edge of the bumper. Regarding the bottom tabs for the bumper cover, I cut those as well, but I am looking at ways to help support that also.
Ahh those. All of the center part was cut out. I left only the outside pieces.
Side note, got some autoVE tuning in last night. Hoping to get out tonight and get a lot more of the part throttle stuff closer to spec. My LTFT's were around -8 to -12 so I figured I would get it a bit closer so the O2s arnt working so much. Trans noise is still apparent. Forced 2nd gear Zero Noise, Forced 3rd gear Zero noise. Only seems to happen in 1st gear. So to me I think that rules out converter? Time to call the trans guy again. Other than the chatter noise from 140-160 degrees (and I think 190 also since I got it pretty warm holding gears doing autove) the car runs and drives great! Been nice to just jump in it and drive to work in the morning. However god damn I need cup holders for my morning brew lol
Not much to update still driving it around when I have time. mainly to work. The wife drove it on out date night last week while we were doing the autoVE and she complemented on how nice it drives. Feels nice!
Just added an MSD-2step. Still trying to figure out why the hell my TCC wont lock up. Been driving me nuts! I may wait out the summer with the trans and yank it at the end of the year for the builder. Ill talk to him first though to make sure he is fine with that. I really dont have the energy to yank the trans again then rush to get it back in!
I also picked up a stubby Vibrant air filter. Was sick of going through construction zones hoping I wouldnt suck something in lol.
Ill try to get a phone video on my way home from work today
Just a quick boring phone video. Near the end I was testing the MSD 2 step. Currenlty its only at 1500rpm. I either need a looser converter or better rear brakes to hold any more than 1800rpm.
I ramped up the wastegate duty to 100% this morning on the way to work and if you actually go WOT its an animal for 7psi or so. Whenever I get my wastegate dump tubes in I will swap in a stiffer springs. I should have a dashboard mount for my phone next week or so, so Ill try to get some better video on boost, or borrow my buddies gpro.
Very nice video! I must say that I am a bit jealous. I really like the maxi gauge setup. Will PI offer you a free re-stall being that you did not buy converter new?
I bought it off a guy on ls1tech who never used it. PI didnt really even respond to my message about it. I do like how it drive but wish i could footbrake more. Maybe over the winter ill do a cam swap
Tossed the 10.80psi Springs in the gates last night. Hoping I can get some footage next week!
Also my friend may have figured out my lockup issues. I could never get the stock shifter to match the trans perfect and he is going through the same thing on his monte using a 3rd gen shifter and he is calculating angles etc. Im like meh im good with my shifter being outta wack I know where OD is. Well He made a good point. My shifter sits in D (3rd) not OD when the trans is in OD. I wonder if the PCM is not receiving the proper signal from the shifter? Im unsure how exactly it determines lockup. I have an 87a relay wired to my brake pedal for TCC to get the proper voltage. Maybe it has something to do with the park/neutral wire?
Have you attempted to force lockup with the vcm scanner? That should troubleshoot the mechanical side. Also, curious as to why you used a relay to send the +12vdc to the pcm when the brake pedal is not being pressed? The factory cruise/tcc switch can accomplish this.
I thought the same thing, which caused me to remove mine and misplace it. Haha The cruise portion is simply the vacuum signal. The terminals make/break the 12V signal for the TCC.
If the relay wiring is sound maybe there are some parameters in the tune that conflict preventing lockup to be commanded.
Just curious, are you using a 4L60E or 4L80E segment in your tune?
Last edited by Chris Etemadi; 08-15-2015 at 06:12 PM.
I thought the same thing, which caused me to remove mine and misplace it. Haha The cruise portion is simply the vacuum signal. The terminals make/break the 12V signal for the TCC.
If the relay wiring is sound maybe there are some parameters in the tune that conflict preventing lockup to be commanded.
Just curious, are you using a 4L60E or 4L80E segment in your tune?
The thirgen factory brake switch does a make/break to ground for the 700R4.
The later PCMs want a make/break to +12v ign.
To my knowledge all 700r4's in thirdgens had the +12VDC provided directly to the TCC solenoid via the brake switch and the -12VDC provided by the ECM.
Since Jay is running a LS PCM (411 presumably) he needs to provide the Blue #33 pin on the ECM with the +12VDC switched via factory TCC switch or the relay mod he has done.
The 411 and similar ECMs still control the TCC via a ground wire at Red #4, However, the ECM also provides a +12VDC to the RED #2 pin. Of course this could be bypassed also by supplying the TCC circuit directly, but it is good to have that input so the ECM knows if the pedal is being depressed.
Because he has stated that he can force a lockup via the VCM suite he needs to verify that the relay is providing the proper output, in addition to checking that the programming doesn't have conflicting parameters that prevents the ground signal being sent to the TCC solenoid.
I can attest personally that the computer will allow a lockup via the VCM suite even if Blue 33 is not provided with a +12 VDC source. This means that the computer obtains the +12VDC from power inputs other than Blue 33. Jay can test this theory by forcing lockup and seeing that the lockup remains engaged while the brake pedal is depressed.
Also attached I a picture that I found of the cruise/tcc switch which has the pink/purple pigtail going to it.
Well the last test I did with my voltage meter it was getting the correct power off of the relay to the PCM. (opposite of factory) killing voltage when pressed and giving voltage when the brake is released.
I have used a stock 4l80e Van segment. As far as I can tell in my tune everything make sense. There is only one thing shut off in the tune that I cannot tell if it would cause it to not lockup which is the P0740 code under Trans diagnostics. It its set to NO for DTC Fault processers, DTC Fault Max Pressure, Failsafe Enablers and DTC Fault Pressures.
No I wanted to and totally forgot about it. I was in Michigan but up ib Sterling at Rifle River. Man was a good time. Going to make that a yearly trip!
I actually havnt had time to drive it in over a week. Last week I put in the 10.8psi springs, made some wastegate dump tubes and put some heat sleeves on the starter wire and I have yet to have tested it! Driving me nuts!
Still waiting on my damn camera mount. Took a buddy for a rip yesterday. I think I'm in need of drag radials badly. From a slow roll 1st through 2nd is completely useless. There is a track day coming up soon but I doubt I can make it due to family events . I wish I had my car trailer ready and I would tow it up to Milan for a night.
Seems like my gates are holding 10psi flawless as well which is good to know. I was seeing around 11.8AFR spinning the tires. I know in 3rd gear rolling into it 10psi I was seeing 10.8-11.2
Going to meet a guy next weekend for a DTS 9" with strange center, 3.50 gear and a true track posi! Also scored the driveshaft since he was 4l80e, a UMI chassis mount torque arm and a set of racestars with 26x10.5's. My buddy is buying the fronts as they wont fit my brakes anyways. Plan is to paint or powdercoat them to match the ZR1's. He is also willing to swap me wheels and some cash for his 17x11 and 17x9 ZR1s with 315 drag radials, but money is running low lol.
Also spoke with howe for a custom rad/shroud/fan combo but that will be around xmas time.
Another boring *** video. Testing the phone mount...2 months to come in. good ol ebay! It was shaking pretty good so i had to improvise and hold it. So i didnt wanna get crazy
Anyways gives a better idea of how it sounds. I promise a good video after the 9" and hoosier slicks
I looked at the Speedhut gauges and I actually like them better than Autometer gauges. Either way, a set of Autometer gauges or Speedhut will be pricey.
Looks good! Im in the process of doing a 5.3 turbo with 150k truck motor with truck intake. I was planning on doing twin turbos as I already run true dual exhaust. I'm thinking twin GT35s, 8-10psi, no intercooler ( i have meth injection if needed) with dual 2.5" pipes going to the stock truck TB and dual 3" from the turbos back to the already dual 3" exhaust. I just got 90% of the truck harness done and going to use HP tuners on the OEM PCM. Single would be cheaper/easier but then I would need to run a full single stock style exhaust and cut up my homemade SFC so its prob not worth it.
quick question... where did you mount the IAT? and how did you pull the stainless nipples out of the waterpump that go to the heater core? I bought a rubber bypass hose loop but would be much cleaner/easier to pull those out and tap them and plug them. Or will that mess with the coolant flow/air pockets? From what I hear they are "epoxied in" and require heat and some banging to break free... i just dont want to attempt if i can't get them out and then create a leak.
If you used HPT to tune would you be opposed to sending me the file?
I mounted the IAT about 6 inches before the Throttle body. For the waterpump I cut them flush with the waterpump, then too a small carbide dremel bit and cut a "slot" into the barb then collapsed them and they popped out. I did the same thing on my Old Camaro as well. I may have used a steel blade on my jig saw. I cant recall. They are already almost perfect size to tap NPT. 3/8 and 1/2" NPT if I recall.
I mounted the IAT about 6 inches before the Throttle body. For the waterpump I cut them flush with the waterpump, then too a small carbide dremel bit and cut a "slot" into the barb then collapsed them and they popped out. I did the same thing on my Old Camaro as well. I may have used a steel blade on my jig saw. I cant recall. They are already almost perfect size to tap NPT. 3/8 and 1/2" NPT if I recall.
I would send you my tune but I use EFIlive.
Jay
Thanks, I appreciate that. I never thought of doing it that way! I think I want to mount my IAT in the intake. I have the large opening at the back of the intake for a brake booster that I dont need... but it uses a quick release push fitting... and no idea how to plug that. I also got billet aluminum EGR block off so I can drill and tap that for the 3/8" NPT IAT sensor. I heard its better to get the reading as close to the cylinders as possible for a more accurate reading. Sure it will heat soak alittle but prob not much with the OEM plastic intake.
I also debated it in the intake but read mixed reviews on it so just put it in the charge pipe. When or if it gets meth injection I will place it probably 1 foot before the IAT.
Just found you on here, Jay. Your car's coming along nicely. I hope to eventually see it! I finally got a Camaro of my own to mess with, and I've got your old poly motor mounts to use in it, haha.
Awesome Cale, Still have the Capri? Im hoping next summer to take it out more. i had a trans issue that annoyed me so I never took the car out other than to work really. Trans should be coming out this winter and Paul Porier will be going through it again. He is thinking its a sprag issue. If so i may upgrade that as well. Really Debating a T56 swap just for fun. I rarely drive it as is anyways
This should do the cooling trick plus free up some space!
Griffin dual pass 31x15.5x3 with dual summit 3100cfm fans. Must say im very happy with the quality of the fans. Nice rubber seal all around. Small amount of trimming needed.
Also may be picking up the new Holley Sheet metal intake today with a 102mm throttle body.....we shall see.
This should do the cooling trick plus free up some space!
Griffin dual pass 31x15.5x3 with dual summit 3100cfm fans. Must say im very happy with the quality of the fans. Nice rubber seal all around. Small amount of trimming needed.
Also may be picking up the new Holley Sheet metal intake today with a 102mm throttle body.....we shall see.
Awesome Cale, Still have the Capri? Im hoping next summer to take it out more. i had a trans issue that annoyed me so I never took the car out other than to work really. Trans should be coming out this winter and Paul Porier will be going through it again. He is thinking its a sprag issue. If so i may upgrade that as well. Really Debating a T56 swap just for fun. I rarely drive it as is anyways
Jay
Yep still have the Capri, I never plan to sell it. I should probably start a build thread for my Camaro. I see you have some nice fans now! I'm in the market to buy hand me down if you got anything you want to unload. I'll be in Windsor for xmas and new years.
A t56 would make it a lot of fun to drive! I know where you can get a set of pedals and whatever else you need out of an 88 in MI. Have you considered a Tremec TKO600? They are so stupid easy to work on should you break something it's silly. I was talking to the wife, I'd like to take the Capri through the tail of the dragon in '16. Took the Capri down to NC last year and had so much fun driving through the mountains of WV I gotta do a mountain trip again.
Awesome, kinda assumed that thing was going to the grave with you lol. Man that trip would be a blast!
I havnt looked much into it but I would probably go with a TR6060 or a magnum T56
Only thing I currently have laying around....
87 stock rad/e-fan/shroud
Stock driveshaft modified with a 4l80e/th400 yoke
UMI 2203 which is for a 4th gen. Was going to modify it for mine but left on the one I made
Rad is mocked up. waiting to pick up some 1"x2" steel for the new rad support. Intake is off and I did some testing looks like there is no way in hell im going to fit the PRO-FLO under the hood so ordered a Vic Jr and elbow since I already have a mint set of Vic jr rails/brackets.
Hoping to be done with the winter mods by christmas time Which means more mods to come in the new year LOL.
Trans does still need to come out, at that time I will make the decision on the converter. it may be send out for a restall to loosen it a tad.
Also just ordered a B&M Stealth magnum grip shifter. Finally deal with that shifter issue I had! I will install this one like the last car. Retrofit it into the stock console so only the handle and release come out of the console.
Well the rad support is welded back in. Im happy with the looks. doesnt net me a ton more room but it gives me a enough! im hoping by next weekend to have the rad/fans in for good then hopefully the intake will be on before xmas.
Wow! Great build! I am just beginning a very similar project. Your thread has given me a bunch of great ideas. I recently bought back my 3rd gen that I sold about 10+ years ago lol. Everyone around me is swapping everything so I figured why not a 3rd gen lol. I have a hard time finding anyone who was successful with the forward facing manifolds and you made it look easy. Again, nice work!
Thanks! It wasnt bad at all to do. I wish I would have done the same on my last iroc. i built nice forward facing headers but I like the clean look of the manifolds.
I should have some good updates in the new yer. Still waiting on my parts\
Looking good man. Mine has been on hold for a couple weeks. Still need to install the second oil pan drain and the O2 bungs. Then find the time to send everything out to get coated.
Well got the intake on. Next up will be redo the fuel lines then redo the cold side. I may just pick up a tig welder to do so then start working on fabbing up some 3rd gen kits.
Rad and fans are also in just need to button up the wiring
Shifter is also in but ill save that for later on whenever I pull the trans out.
Jay
Sorry about the sideways pic. Damn phone. Ill get some better ones later on
Well got the intake on. Next up will be redo the fuel lines then redo the cold side. I may just pick up a tig welder to do so then start working on fabbing up some 3rd gen kits.
Rad and fans are also in just need to button up the wiring
Shifter is also in but ill save that for later on whenever I pull the trans out.
Jay
Sorry about the sideways pic. Damn phone. Ill get some better ones later on
I would recommend picking up a TIG. I just bought one last month and am loving it. I kick myself for waiting so long to get one. The mig welder has been retired to spot weld and tack duty now...lol
I see you ended up with an aluminum manifold and elbow in the end. Holley has really stepped up their presence in the LS manifold area, I wasn't aware they were building these. Looks to have same height dimension as the Edelbrock Victor Jr, almost a splitting image.
07-17-2015, 03:36 PM
. I wish I had my car trailer ready and I would tow it up to Milan for a night.
Which means more mods to come in the new year LOL.
