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Well I've had this Camaro for a year now as a project. I just stated 2 years in another thread but I had my Appendix removed last April and I had the car two months before that. I've bounced between a lot of different things for it. But a few months ago I finally settled on one. A Turbo SBC. So with a few extra parts laying around (3.4 top end) I have gathered a bit of parts and got some things done. I been stripping the whole car down and slowly redoing the whole thing.
It started as a 2.8 v6 as so.
Then I dragged it into the garage and did this due to a bad transmission and wanting to rebuild the engine due to the last owners crap job rebuild. It knocked bad. Real bad.
She is sitting atm like this in my garage. I been waiting to do much else till I get it the engine built and settle on a transmission (been looking for an LT1 T56).
During cold season I picked up an old 2 piece rear 350 SBC. I quickly tore it apart and put flash oil in the bores and caps to protect from rust. The old 350 was in good shape. She was just covered in oil and dirt. A lot of it. Everything but the stock rotating assembly was junked on this girl. I bought her with everything minus the 2B carb intake and heads for $125. Not bad, no machine work is needed on her.
(Reserved atm, still adding to this, just posting in case my web page crashes again in the middle of posting this. )
After this I bought a set of Assault Racing 200CC heads.
Then I got some LS6 springs and Summit Stainless valves with comp cams guide plates, 1.6 rockers, valve locks and seats and installed. Good for .550 lift, could go as far as .570 but its pushing the limits with my measurements.
No pictures atm, sorry.
I got other parts too for a lot of things, I have all the gauges i'll need, a new headliner, shocks and struts for all around, wonder bar, and a Fast 9 inch Ford I need to !modify to work and so much more.
I also have a stud girdle for my heads. I'll be putting on an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and a Holley 750 Vac Secondary carb. I know you need a double pumper for blow through, but first I'm gonna get the car running N/A then Turbo it after I make sure all is good. Plus I want to finish my 9 Inch before I get insane on it.
So far I have everything I need except a transmission and a running engine lol. But the engine has been a slow work mostly due to me not figuring out if I want to go 377 or stay as a 350. I'll be getting new rods and pistons anyways but I cannot decide if I want the more cubes or extra cash to put towards something else.
Now for the last big thing I did that photo worthy. I painted the block, but a special concotion.
(Reserved, typing now, saving in case of web page crash)
A lot of wire brushing by hand, cleaning every hole and thread, and then taping, Primer.
Gold metallic
Special clear coat that was whipped up with some high temp paint and other stuff.
The money shot with the light on it.
Now my biggest set back is figuring out what I'm doing for the rotating assembly and the 2 week cure time on this paint before its allowed to see any high temperatures. Ughh. I just painted it last weekend.
I tapped and plugged these drains with a half inch set screw.
Ported the oil returns on the front and removed the casting flash in the back of the block.
I also smoothed the valley out a bit so oil would flow better. No real pictures of this being it was just bumps and stuff in the casting.
Then I put my head studs in. Turned out I had to chase every single thread out then I could put them in. Nothing is permanent yet, only for mock up. I also need to get a helicoil kit and fix one thread because its completely stripped from the guy I bought the block off of. Oh well. Will order it along with other stuff from Summit this week.
One side was chased out and cleaned, the other side showed how bad the threads were gummmed up with old sealant.
The bad "thread" if there was any left. So the bad hole.
And I mocked the head and intake on. Shouldn't be any sealing issues. I need to port the oil return from the head to the valley a little on the block and then port the intake manifold, clean and paint it.
Placed my order in to Summit last night. Nothing major.
I got a high volume oil pump, the shaft needed, cam bearings, and the heli-coil I needed, and ARP main bolts.
My plans this weekend is to fix that bad "thread" and get the last stud in and check by a quick cylinder head mock up, finish the little bit of grinding to the valley return from the head on the block, clean the intake manifold and port, prep for paint, and if I have enough time to paint that.
Still waiting to hear back from Scat on their cast vs forged crankshaft in terms of strength. I don't want to risk the crank breaking, but if it'll hold 600 hp and 6,200 RPM, I'll run it. I also have my eye on Manley's forged crank but it requires narrow bearings and idk how much I want to run narrow bearings. I might e-mail them later.
I seen some K1 technologies billet 4340 rods for 98 a piece, I may order these. Still not sure, been looking still trying to find the lightest 4340 rods I can that will hold up. Still going through the H beam vs I beam debate.
I'm probably going to order some D.S.S racing pistons later, they're 330 a set basically and a lot of Ford guys seem to use these and abuse them. They're the only 4" bore forged flat top pistons I can find for a 383 at a decent price. Not happy about the ring sizes but I can live with it. I debated on running a hyper piston because I can actually get everything I want for a good price plus save some cash, but being it's going to be a blow through carb set up, I'd rather spend the extra bucks and get something a bit more durable in case of poor gas or trying to tune the carb and getting a little detonation.
Ether way, I want to do all the grinding I need to clearance the block for everything between my oiling, the increased stroke, and other things before I install my new cam bearings. I'll be beating the old bearings out once I do all that and clean the living hell out of her then start installing the bearings and rotating assembly for good after balancing.
How bad would it be to order 1 rod and piston so I can see how they are and use them to clearance the block, and if after I like them, I buy a whole set. I understand I still may need to clearance the bolts still on the other 7 but would this be ok? The clearances would be checked again with the whole set.
And what is a good oil pan for our 3rd gens that is a 2 piece left hand dipstick pan that is 7 quarts. I seen a Moroso sportsman 7 quart with windage tray and crank scrapper built in for 113 bucks. Outside of that, I was looking at the Summit brand oil pans in 7 quart sizes but they don't have a windage tray or anything.
Placed my order in to Summit last night. Nothing major.
I got a high volume oil pump, the shaft needed, cam bearings, and the heli-coil I needed, and ARP main bolts.
My plans this weekend is to fix that bad "thread" and get the last stud in and check by a quick cylinder head mock up, finish the little bit of grinding to the valley return from the head on the block, clean the intake manifold and port, prep for paint, and if I have enough time to paint that.
Still waiting to hear back from Scat on their cast vs forged crankshaft in terms of strength. I don't want to risk the crank breaking, but if it'll hold 600 hp and 6,200 RPM, I'll run it. I also have my eye on Manley's forged crank but it requires narrow bearings and idk how much I want to run narrow bearings. I might e-mail them later.
I seen some K1 technologies billet 4340 rods for 98 a piece, I may order these. Still not sure, been looking still trying to find the lightest 4340 rods I can that will hold up. Still going through the H beam vs I beam debate.
I'm probably going to order some D.S.S racing pistons later, they're 330 a set basically and a lot of Ford guys seem to use these and abuse them. They're the only 4" bore forged flat top pistons I can find for a 383 at a decent price. Not happy about the ring sizes but I can live with it. I debated on running a hyper piston because I can actually get everything I want for a good price plus save some cash, but being it's going to be a blow through carb set up, I'd rather spend the extra bucks and get something a bit more durable in case of poor gas or trying to tune the carb and getting a little detonation.
Ether way, I want to do all the grinding I need to clearance the block for everything between my oiling, the increased stroke, and other things before I install my new cam bearings. I'll be beating the old bearings out once I do all that and clean the living hell out of her then start installing the bearings and rotating assembly for good after balancing.
How bad would it be to order 1 rod and piston so I can see how they are and use them to clearance the block, and if after I like them, I buy a whole set. I understand I still may need to clearance the bolts still on the other 7 but would this be ok? The clearances would be checked again with the whole set.
And what is a good oil pan for our 3rd gens that is a 2 piece left hand dipstick pan that is 7 quarts. I seen a Moroso sportsman 7 quart with windage tray and crank scrapper built in for 113 bucks. Outside of that, I was looking at the Summit brand oil pans in 7 quart sizes but they don't have a windage tray or anything.
first turbo motor?
get a stock vortec engine and drop it in and turbo that first if its ur first time tuning and building a turbo car cause more then likley ur going to blow it up
first turbo motor?
get a stock vortec engine and drop it in and turbo that first if its ur first time tuning and building a turbo car cause more then likley ur going to blow it up
Yes my first turbo engine.
And maybe just to get a feel but I'd prefer to finish building this engine before I try to find a decent priced running 350 to experiment on.
My plan was to just start the boost at the lowest PSI I could and slowly build up to 7-9 PSI so I can tune it without worry of blowing it up.
First thing I'm worried about right now is getting a strong enough rotating assembly to handle the power and turbo without going way overboard on it. Basically best bang for the buck that'll last. Plus I want to have a very light rotating assembly so trying to get information on estimated weights for everything.
Unfortunately I think I'm over thinking some things because I plan on adding a turbo.
I am talking strictly N/A engines. I know nothing about turbo engines like you are building. Also, in the comment above, Im talking about the crank being forged if your numbers are going to be higher than listed. Keith black makes some nice pistons that are Hypereutectic that can handle high hp instead of forged pistons. IMO, id only run forged if thats what the engine calls for. If It can be built with some nice hyper, I go that route. Way less piston slap and not as much as risk of hurting anything when engine is cool. I think forged piston to wall is like .007 give er take where hyper is .002 give er take. IMHO, if I could do it again for my stroker id run forged crank and a good hyper. But thats what my motor calls for. However it would be nice to know my bottom end is SOLID. I do somewhat, especially on cold starts, worry about the crank. I have a stock 400 crank I turned myself with some flat off the shelf hypers and it has lasted for a long time.
PM Knightrider, he has tons of experience with both of those crank manufactures and knows a lot about them. Think he runs scat...
its got a wider ring spacing then a stock piston and very nice thick lands , also the top ring is down further from the top then most which helps keep the ring cooler
ill have to find the better picture that shows the differences better
I got my order from Summit. Cam bearings, ARP main bolts, high volume std pressure oil pump and driveshaft and a few other things. Most importantly though, I got my heli-coil kit so I can fix that "thread".
Originally Posted by -=Z28=-
I am talking strictly N/A engines. I know nothing about turbo engines like you are building. Also, in the comment above, Im talking about the crank being forged if your numbers are going to be higher than listed. Keith black makes some nice pistons that are Hypereutectic that can handle high hp instead of forged pistons. IMO, id only run forged if thats what the engine calls for. If It can be built with some nice hyper, I go that route. Way less piston slap and not as much as risk of hurting anything when engine is cool. I think forged piston to wall is like .007 give er take where hyper is .002 give er take. IMHO, if I could do it again for my stroker id run forged crank and a good hyper. But thats what my motor calls for. However it would be nice to know my bottom end is SOLID. I do somewhat, especially on cold starts, worry about the crank. I have a stock 400 crank I turned myself with some flat off the shelf hypers and it has lasted for a long time.
PM Knightrider, he has tons of experience with both of those crank manufactures and knows a lot about them. Think he runs scat...
I got a hold of him. His opinion was to run a forged crank. And he said the D.S.S pistons were basically junk so I'll hold off on trying them.
Originally Posted by DIGGLER
Stock crank is arguably better than a scat cast.
I have no idea. Scat has yet to get back to me on the tensile strength of their cast and forged cranks. Got one e-mail that asked what my application would be for the crank a few days ago. My stock crank is sitting in the corner right now covered in flash oil.
Originally Posted by RBob
Nice work. Just a heads up, be sure to get this out before putting it all together. See red circled in pic.
RBob.
Thanks, I hadn't noticed that before. I'll have to inspect that. I been wrapped up in other prep and stuff that I had not seen that.
Originally Posted by project89
theese are the hypers im using
its got a wider ring spacing then a stock piston and very nice thick lands , also the top ring is down further from the top then most which helps keep the ring cooler
ill have to find the better picture that shows the differences better
What rings are you using and how much gap are you running in your rings?
And are you running skinny rings or the usual sized? Will the ring size matter under boost? I'd imagine a thinner ring would help with heat and friction in a cylinder under boost.
I got my order from Summit. Cam bearings, ARP main bolts, high volume std pressure oil pump and driveshaft and a few other things. Most importantly though, I got my heli-coil kit so I can fix that "thread".
I got a hold of him. His opinion was to run a forged crank. And he said the D.S.S pistons were basically junk so I'll hold off on trying them.
I have no idea. Scat has yet to get back to me on the tensile strength of their cast and forged cranks. Got one e-mail that asked what my application would be for the crank a few days ago. My stock crank is sitting in the corner right now covered in flash oil.
Thanks, I hadn't noticed that before. I'll have to inspect that. I been wrapped up in other prep and stuff that I had not seen that.
What rings are you using and how much gap are you running in your rings?
And are you running skinny rings or the usual sized? Will the ring size matter under boost? I'd imagine a thinner ring would help with heat and friction in a cylinder under boost.
i dont rember the ring gaps off the top of my head but ill look in my other tghread were i have the info posted and let u know
the rings are moly rings , those pistons take std thickness rings
I got a reply from Scat. It was a little unhelpful for my questions. Never really answered any questions I asked, just a basic reply really tbh. Oh well I guess. I removed all personal names and e-mails for privacy, hence the taken out for privacy.
The I-bema rods with the 7/16 bolts will be just fine for what you are doing. The cast crank in a naturally aspirated engine 10.5-11:1 600hp should be just fine.
Thank you,
Taken out for privacy
Crank Sales
SCAT Enterprises, Inc.
310-370-5501 EXT.121
310-214-2285 FAX
Taken out for privacy
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike (Removed for privacy)
[mailto:Taken out for privacy]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 9:29 AM
To: Taken out for privacy <Taken out for privacy>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft and rods
The cast crank, I did not see an option for a lightweight forged crank.
I'm building a 383 stroker turbo small block chevy.
The engine will have an RPM limit of about 6200 RPM and the targeted HP is 600-620.
Thanks,
Mike
On Aug 10, 2015, at 10:24 AM, Taken out for privacy<Taken out for privacy> wrote:
Hello Mike,
What are you building? What kind of power and RPM will the engine see? When you say light weight do you mean our cast or forged crank?
Thank you,
Taken out for privacy
Crank Sales
SCAT Enterprises, Inc.
310-370-5501 EXT.121
310-214-2285 FAX
Taken out for privacy
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike (Removed for privacy)
[mailto:taken out for privacy]
Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 6:14 PM
To: Crank Tech <CrankTech@ScatEnterprises.com>
Subject: Crankshaft and rods
I am inquiring about the main differences between your H Beam and I Beam rods and what advantages one has over the other.
My other inquiry is about your lightweight 383 stroker crankshaft for a Small block Chevy and it's rated HP and tensile strength. And how is it made more lightweight? Last casting on the counter balances or are there holes drilled into the counter balances?
I didn't get much done this weekend or really did much. Had to take my dog to the vet Friday and have her put down. It's been a rough weekend.
I got that one hole heli-coiled in do at least that's fixed.
Then I assembled the top end and stuff loosely for mock up to see how everything fit.
The accessories I need to polish more. The intake needs cleaned up, I think I may just polish it cause I kinda like it with the heads and intake polished aluminum. I may pick up a cheap single plane intake and do that instead.
Next week or the following week I'll be ordering my rotating assembly. Then for now I'm throwing a comp cams xs274s mechanical tappet cam in.
So after the assembly is here, clearance the block, clean block, install new cam bearings, measure the main and rod cap bearing clearance and set that, install everything for final, throw cam in, degree, set lash, and rebuild my carb. Then break in.
After that, I need to find a transmission and ether rebuild, or get a good one off the bat.
Then paint. I want to do a candy midnight blue with black stripes and putting an L88 scoop on the hood.
Then I'm moving onto the rear end while its the exhaust shop getting that and inspected lol.
Then move onto getting the Turbo set up and the routing. I have some 1\2 flanges around I'll get mocked up when the engine is just sitting in the car.
I got my blow off, and wategate and intercooler already. I'll be getting a Borg s480 then. Then it's about routing and hooking up the exhaust and getting a double pumper set up for blow through.
For what it's worth, I've been running my stock cast rotating assembly (same as a vortec truck engine) for 4 years now under boost. First ever experience with a turbo and I have yet to hurt it. I know for a fact I've detonated loud enought to hear it at 7psi and haven't hurt the cheapo cast pistons. Rev limiter set at 6k, been as high as 14 psi with vortec heads. Probably makes almost 500 whp at 14psi. I ran a performer rpm dual plane and a 4150 carb up until this season. Ran really good after I spent two summers tuning the carb. You can get it to run well under boost but certain throttle positions will never have linear fuel delivery. Vent extensions are a huge help to richen it up during transition to boost. Getting WOT tuned is pretty simple, you just have to drive it more like a light switch and it works well. No matter what I did, I could never get the AFR's even close between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle. A small 650 carb is plenty and will work better than anything larger.Hell I ran mine on just the primaries for a test and I couldn't feel any loss in power. Boost will find it's way through small openings easier than you think.
You didn't mention head gaskets but I'd definitely run some MLS ones. Your top rings should have been gapped around .022-.026 for a 4" bore. And most go a little wider on the 2nd rings. Should be a fun project. You'll be fine with the stock rear end for now as long as you stick to street tires.
You didn't mention head gaskets but I'd definitely run some MLS ones. Your top rings should have been gapped around .022-.026 for a 4" bore. And most go a little wider on the 2nd rings. Should be a fun project. You'll be fine with the stock rear end for now as long as you stick to street tires.
i use composite gaskets saves the engine if it detonates by lossing the gasket instead of the piston
iirc i went .029 top .024 second on mine, it does come down to preference though , i would rather have a slightly oversized ring gap then to worry about the rings butting and breaking
Using an inferior head gasket to "save" the engine isn't a strategy I would choose, but to each his own. If you sneak up on the tune and know what you're doing you should be fine. My composite head gasket started leaking on it's first season on my turbo CRX and it wasn't because of detonation. I just don't like swapping head gaskets if I can start off with good ones from the start.
Using an inferior head gasket to "save" the engine isn't a strategy I would choose, but to each his own. If you sneak up on the tune and know what you're doing you should be fine. My composite head gasket started leaking on it's first season on my turbo CRX and it wasn't because of detonation. I just don't like swapping head gaskets if I can start off with good ones from the start.
ive never blown a head gasket, composite or not lol so i prolly dont have to worry about it either way.
Only thing I did was press the old pistons off and lay out the connecting rods. Still no idea on a rotating assembly.
My little piston holder I made was missing but since these are mine and the old pistons were junk I said screw it and yolo'd it with a broke tape, and 2 Stainless shim plates. I did find my press pin I made on the lathe at least.
And here they all are. The reason this motor was pult was they rebuild the motor and forgot to gap a whole set of rings. The rings jammed in the lands, the pin galled the piston but the rod was OK. I couldn't even remove the oil ring, the other ones were jammed in certain spots but I removed most of the rings, the little pieces left are jammed in too bad. Good thing these were junk pistons to me anyways. Never looked at them too hard.
I'm not going with the stock rods. I just pressed them off to keep them. I'm going to save them for another project then. I'll polish them and rebolt them later for a mud motor.
I'm still not sure what rods I'm going with or crank. I ether want the K1 technologies or Scat in a 6 inch.
Sorry I haven't been on or updated this thread. Ended up moving the shop and working hellish overtime, buying a new car, and fixing my other junk. It's been crazy lately with everything and I haven't had anytime to do anything.
Today I'm throwing the intake manifold up on the CNC mill and then sandblasting and painting it. I need to do some browsing today and by the end of this week or by the weekend order the rotating assembly along with some stupid stuff from Summit.
The game plan is;
1). Finish building the engine and get it ready to drop in
2). Drag the car to the new shop once the Flatbed is inspected again and I get the tractor transmission fluid changed to get it out of the garage
3). Clean and fabricate parts for the front end to easily mount the intercooler and piping
4). Paint engine bay a nice blue, something in metallic. Still undecided
5). Drop engine in and start fabricating the headers and get everything hooked up
6). Decide on a transmission then figure out that step.
7). Wire up everything
8). Body work, L88 hood scoop, and paint. The color will be Jet Black. Still undecided if I want to paint an accent color all the way around or if it'll just be a metallic blue to match the engine bay on the L88 scoop
9). Exhaust. Thinking of the Hawk's sinister 4 inch exhaust
10). Inspection
11). Start building the Ford 9" and try to baby her with the stock rear. Or blow it up for a good excuse to finish the Ford 9"
Feeling froggy on this now. I want to get it to the Numidia race track this year.
EDIT: Just put my order in for Summit. Gotta figure out and order my rotating assembly then and when I get that, I can finish the engine.
Intake done and back on for mock up. I got bored waiting to do the coats of paint so I painted my motor mounts too... Even though no one will ever see them lol
Waiting for my summit order to get some stupid **** I need and another engine stand. The other one ended up getting used elsewhere so the poor bugger gets this skid as a temporary new friend. I would use my engine dolly but it's a PITA to get in and out of there and generally a forklift makes everything easier to move around lol.
I been debating on getting a different camshaft and using the one I have now for the Yukon later. The camshaft I have now just seems way too small for a boosted engine.
According to what I figured with my Static CR, this should keep me completely safe on my Dynamic CR while providing the power where I want it.
I also been thinking of getting another distributor where I can program the timing curve. Idk what one will do that and if they make ones that work with a carb, will have to do some searching but I need to be able to control the timing curve better then the Old School style if I want to get the engine running as smooth as possible at all RPMs.
And any recommendations on a good blow thro carb? The engine builder I talked to Saturday says he can build one but he charges more then buying a brand new one already modified for it! Unfortunately I'm still on the prowl for a rotating assembly, the guy I talked too was nice but nickel and dimes you for **** that should be standard. All said and done to get a rotating assembly and have him balance it and all that (He started talking price just for parts and I thought he already meant he would balance it in the price because I said "Could you get me a Balanced rotating assembly with the balancer, rings, and bearing ready where all I need to do is check and do my ring gap and clearances") He figured a 3-4k bill and somehow we went from a parts list I had, to top of the line forged parts and the whole 9 yards. Shouldn't of mentioned it was a turbo build because he was persistent I would only buy those parts from him exactly and he jumped into getting me a custom camshaft to match. It turned me off big time from him because he was figuring out how to get the most $$ out of me at once. He didn't want to hear anything I had to say on the parts going into my engine. I understand he has a reputation to maintain and bills to pay himself, but I wasn't pleased with it and I know how it goes due to friends going there. He always gives you a low side estimate then the real price is always 40%-60% more then what he said. I can't say he isn't a quality builder and not trying to knock him, but he acts like his customers couldn't turn a wrench the right way and it's his way or no way. No talking about things and figuring out alternative things. I'll be getting a hold of another guy tomorrow once he opens. My buddy says the guy is really good, he's more into tractor pulls and diesels but he's really open minded and will work with you on a good parts list that meets your budget and goals and he does class A balancing work and is real easy to work with.
Originally Posted by ZZ3Astro
It's really easy to let a few months slip by when you're busy doing that work and life thing! Can't wait to see this one on the road.
No doubt. It's hard to balance life, work, and hobbies when there's always so much going on at once. I still got a mile long list of stuff to do and there never is enough time in the day to do it all. Things always get put to the back burner and switched back to priority then as side work.
The rotating assembly is taken care of. I should have it all balanced and in my hands in 2-3 weeks. Then I'll be buttoning up the bottom end and assembling it for good. The only thing I'll need is pushrods but gotta wait till I can measure my pushrod length.
I think I'm just going to go with the NX274 grind. It should put me right in the sweet zone with boost and do good off boost.
Does anyone or has anyone heard/have good things to say about those On3 turbos? I see a few good things and seen a forum post by On3 on another forum on how they were building a turbo kit for a 5.3 truck. Been thinking of their 78mm turbo for the moment.
I had a 7875 On3 which I recently sold. My engine for whatever reason just doesn't like to spool anything bigger than my 6766 and I finally decided I'm done with the current setup and going to a twin turbo LS setup. A friend wanted to buy it for a 5.3 project so I sold it to him. Overall I felt like the On3 was a good deal for the money. Quality seemed high for the price but of course comparing it to the PT6766 the wheels are much heavier/thicker so it won't spool as quickly.
I'm actually going to dyno tune that 5.3 on Thursday but I think it still has his old turbo on it. Not sure if they are going to swap turbos beforehand but I'll try to update your thread when I get some feedback. That is IF that 5.3 survives. No timing control from the Megasquirt.. I guess its MS1 not sure, so they are using a BTM or whatever to control timing. Also has a nitrous kit on it and they are looking for 700 hp. At least he gapped the rings! Anyway I'll update you if they put on the On3 but it currently has some other turbo on it. Not sure if they'll swap before the tuning or not.
I had a 7875 On3 which I recently sold. My engine for whatever reason just doesn't like to spool anything bigger than my 6766 and I finally decided I'm done with the current setup and going to a twin turbo LS setup. A friend wanted to buy it for a 5.3 project so I sold it to him. Overall I felt like the On3 was a good deal for the money. Quality seemed high for the price but of course comparing it to the PT6766 the wheels are much heavier/thicker so it won't spool as quickly.
I'm actually going to dyno tune that 5.3 on Thursday but I think it still has his old turbo on it. Not sure if they are going to swap turbos beforehand but I'll try to update your thread when I get some feedback. That is IF that 5.3 survives. No timing control from the Megasquirt.. I guess its MS1 not sure, so they are using a BTM or whatever to control timing. Also has a nitrous kit on it and they are looking for 700 hp. At least he gapped the rings! Anyway I'll update you if they put on the On3 but it currently has some other turbo on it. Not sure if they'll swap before the tuning or not.
Two of my summit boxes came in today. Waiting on the last one tomorrow. I will still have to wait on the rotating assembly before I do anything but I got my 7 quart oil pan, lifters, and my other engine stand.
I got the NX274 grind cam, that'll be part of tomorrow's delivery. Along with the break in engine oil and some odd and ends and small gaskets I forgot before.
Going to twin turbo this sob. I already had one 57mm turbo around so I ordered another one. I'll make some log manifolds out of sch 40 stainless pipe to help make space and easy fabrication. Should be a good street setup and spool up fast.
I got two 50mm wastegates ordered too for this. If I transition the wastegates right, I should be pretty good on keeping the back pressure down and the exhaust as free flowing as possible. The blow off valve I'll have to look at the one in my tool box.
I already have an intercooler in the garage for a twin set up and is huge. I plan on running 2 inch primaries to a 3 inch log (wrapped) to the turbos with a 3 inch downpipe from the turbos and connect those to a 4 inch exhaust out the back. On the cold side I wanna run a 3 inch charge pipe to the intercooler, and get it back to the carb with a 4 inch pipe. Should be able to run 7-8 psi no problems.
I been looking at a Mighty Demon blow thru carb. Still not sure which one. Will have to figure out which one I like better. I want annular boosters ether way.
For the transmission I been looking at a B&M TH400. I found a few core trannys around here but from I've seen, they're not worth messing with. Be easier and cheaper in the long run to get a built one rather then try to rebuild one. I'll have to do some measuring and figuring then on where and what size transmission cooler to run. I plan on running two of them. I've had bad luck with overheating auto trannies, it's why everything I have is a stick now.
All said and done, I think 600-650 hp should be easy to obtain on this set up. I'm still looking at fuel pumps. The aero motive stealth 340 looks tempting to throw in. I'm gonna have to measure out how much AN hoses and what sizes I'll need then once the motor is done and in.
This weekend I'm gonna clean up a space in my corner and set up the one table I have stored and start getting everything cleaned up and laid out for the engine build.
I would avoid the mighty demon blow thru carb if I were you. Contact Csu carbs or c&s carb specailists. The mighty demons can be made to work ok but you will want to throw it across the shop by the time it does!
Seems like CSU gets nothing but great reviews and feedback. I'll looked on their website, for the 200 bucks extra I'll probably go with them then when I'm ready to order the carb. If the extra 200 bucks gets me a carb that won't give me any headaches and I'll have good customer service to back it if I run into any problems, then I'll diffently go with CSU.
I got the final part of my Summit order last night. Got my NX274 cam, break in oil, and other odds and ends I'll need. I'll post one big picture then when I get my table set up and all my parts laid out and sorted for when I finish the engine assembly.
Still waiting on the rotating assembly. I'm gonna get the new engine stand set up, and get measurements and stuff for when I modify it to be an engine test stand. I'll just need to grab a few little things like a toggle and push start button then. I have a battery I can dig out to use and I'll just get a cheap gas jug to use as a "tank". That'll be a tonight thing and part of tomorrow.
This weekend I'm gonna rebuild a carb I have, it's a Holley 750 vac secondary. This'll just be for the break in. Since I have the rebuild kit and stuff, it's not a big deal. Just have to find some of my jets or pick up some. I don't remember what jets it has but I already know they're too small more then likely. Rather have it run rich for break in then lean.
EDIT:
Got the new engine stand together. Sure beats the engine sitting on a pallet.
I'm gonna box in the bottom and weld it with heavy tubing, remount the casters to the front of the new tubing. Then mount some 2x2x1/4 angle up the front for a radiator mount and put a piece of flat bar towards the bottom of the angle and a bottom brace to the back of the engine stand from that flat bar. Then I'll just make a new backer plate and cradle flanges that are long enough to clear the flex plate. Then after that I'll mount the engine and "cheat" for my motor mounts. Don't feel like figuring out how to fit those. Ideally I want to make everything removable outside of the bottom tubing that boxes it in. That way I have my engine stand and a test stand for future uses.
Managed to score a MSD 6BTM dirt cheap. So now I have a way to control my timing when boost kicks in.
I also got my second turbo today and other turbo parts. I got two RS 50mm wastegates. And my god are they huge... Didn't think they'd be as big as they are but they should do just a fine job at controlling boost. I also got some oil restrictors for the turbos and the two downpipe flanges.
Waiting on my rotating assembly to ship. It's packaged and ready to ship, just waiting for FedEx to get on it... I really dislike FedEx, hopefully the tracking number updates tomorrow to in transit.
Besides that, I got my area cleared up and everything set up for the engine. Got my carb all disassembled and ready for a rebuild. Learned a lesson though, never let anyone borrow car parts. Apperantely my buddy didn't understand it or didn't care too. I'm amazed he even got it working to a usable point with what he did.
I've been prowling for a TH400. No luck so far. Plans are to rebuild it, good clutches and a reverse manual valve body with a trans brake.
Outside of that. I've been possibly thinking of a water/methanol kit. I talked to Snow Perfomance about it, but I'm not entirely sure I'll want a water/meth kit. To be honest, I really doubt I'll want one, I just don't see the use of it for me.
I lost a motor to the msd 6btm because of a tore diaphram or whatever it has inside of it to sense boost and pull timing. I would hook it up and make sure it is pulling timing by putting some regulated shop air to it. I would look for a msd programmable 6 part#6530, it is a much better box and uses a map sensor and you can build a timing curve for it and has a bunch of Rev limit options also. If you want a water/meth kit call Rodney at ais.
Unfortunately this weekend is iffy if I'll get the rotating assembly in. Depends if I have to work this weekend or not. If I do, everything up to the pushrods will be in.
But everything is there. I'm pumped and ready right now. The other turbo is at the shop with the engine right now so only toke pics of the new one. I'm hoping to be in the shop bright and early Saturday and get this thing together.
Everything was going good for getting it together till I torqued the connecting rods to the crank. Then it bound up tighter then hell and won't rotate. Unfortunately I need it to rotate to get the rods off. Don't know why it happened but it did.
Bearing clearances were checked and set, everything was good. The connecting rods cleared the block beautifully. Piston rings were gapped exactly where they needed. I don't know what caused this mess. My mind is already in worse case scenario that the block is no good.
I will investigate it further once I get the motivation to tear it all apart. Needless to say this put a huge dampener on things. Hopefully tomorrow after work I can get the time to mess with it and see what happened.
EDIT: Never updated, but it is taken care of now. The one connecting rod had moved when I torqued it down and was right up tight to the other one and would not move due to this. Literally no clearance side to side with a feeler gauge. Moved it back to where it needed to be and it spun easy as can be. Tripled checked everything else to make sure all was ok.
Haven't made progress. The engine is finished and wrapped up awaiting install.
Been debating on going with a super victor and something like a Holley dominator ECU.
The car is more stripped in my garage and is awaiting a back half and a roll cage when I get time and get it to the shop. Been busy between family life, work, and fixing a miraid of issues with my Silverado 1500. Plus I ended up buying a 5th gen Camaro and started messing with that. I guess maybe I been a little lazy too.
Ether way I plan on making progress this winter and get the engine in, turbos plumped and installed, and the roll cage and backhalf done. No idea on a transmission yet. Hoping to get an idea of what to do for EFI. If I could talk myself into the plunge of messing with Megasquirt I would do that but I keep talking myself out of it because I use HP Tuners so much and don't want to relearn a whole new platform.
I'll update this thread when I make meaningful progress.
Haven't made progress. The engine is finished and wrapped up awaiting install.
Been debating on going with a super victor and something like a Holley dominator ECU.
The car is more stripped in my garage and is awaiting a back half and a roll cage when I get time and get it to the shop. Been busy between family life, work, and fixing a miraid of issues with my Silverado 1500. Plus I ended up buying a 5th gen Camaro and started messing with that. I guess maybe I been a little lazy too.
Ether way I plan on making progress this winter and get the engine in, turbos plumped and installed, and the roll cage and backhalf done. No idea on a transmission yet. Hoping to get an idea of what to do for EFI. If I could talk myself into the plunge of messing with Megasquirt I would do that but I keep talking myself out of it because I use HP Tuners so much and don't want to relearn a whole new platform.
I'll update this thread when I make meaningful progress.
~Mike
if u can learn hptuners u can learn megasquirt
download the software and just look over it and u will see how simple it is
This. I run megasquirt and its a great system, but its not for everyone.
I think the biggest flaw with MS is theres alot of variables.
Injector specs+voltage compensation+Air density+Warmup enrichment+Afterstart enrichment+IAC warmup+timing table+ego control all need to be right, and you need to be aware of the formula. Other than that, tuning is a breeze.
08-04-2015, 05:25 PM
and they are looking for 700 hp. At least he gapped the rings! Anyway I'll update you if they put on the On3 but it currently has some other turbo on it. Not sure if they'll swap before the tuning or not.
