Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Nice, I just came across it. If I could avoid spending that much on 3/4's of a setup I more than likely won't even use I will. Just need the head unit, the bracket and the belt. The rest will be a breeze...

Well today was dedicated to the GTA, I hit a road block with the Buick, and that's because I have been racing it everywhere I have been taking it lol. Already ordered tubular control arms for the rear as one of the stockers gave up the ghost last night, cuz they are as thick as toothpicks lol, seriously. Can you say.... "snap"...

project89

iTrader: (1)

how in the hell did u manage to do that

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

At first I thought it was the e-brake dangling because when I installed new calipers, I left one of the old e-brake brackets that gets bolted to the caliper on when exchanging them, and the new one of course didn't have it, so I had to zippie tie one of them out of the way until I could get a replacement bracket. Figured the zippie tie broke and the e-brake was banging on the suspension. When I lifted the car, to my surprise, the control arm was cut in half. I would "like" to think it was the torque of the 3800 TPI lol, but I'm pretty sure the shocks are going and one good pot hole did the deed. Take a good look at the stock control arm diameter, that is how thick the stock exhaust is lol...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Okay, pulled the engine up and inspected. There was one freaking bolt on the flywheel to converter that wasn't seated properly as I was unbolting the engine, even with almost a 1/4 of an inch showing in the thread it was the hardest bolt to pull from the converter, and I am not sure if it backed out on it's own then jammed when launching, or if it went in like that when I installed the converter the last time, but either way this pretty much underlines why this flywheel bit the dust. Now the flywheel is giving me a hard time coming off the damn engine, so before I strip the bolts and lose my gawd damn mind, I hit it with some penetrating oil and am going to let it sit for awhile before going any further with it. On a side note Dave, the Buick is getting a turbo, so make me a set of headers based on a series 1 3800 you find in the boneyard lol. Seriously, it is, but no more than a stock GN turbo so it'll need a 3 bolt flange, and it won't see more than 350 horsepower...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I took a video of the affect of the bad flywheel before pulling the engine earlier while it was still light out. Turn up your volume because ever since Lou's ZR1 took off that day, my i-Phone has not been the same sound recording wise lol. Got the engine idle down to 800-RPM in Park/Neutral and it is as tame as ever, not bad with this big of a cam, stock throttle body and small displacement engine. The chatter and chirping of the flexplate over power the exhaust note though, but she sounds good. Very happy with the tip in, but I couldn't blip the throttle because it would only enhance the chirping. Was giving a lot of resistance too as the metal on metal heated up, was holding the engine back causing a slight surge. But anyways, will have the bad flywheel off the engine tomorrow...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Just a quick update, the 2-Bar MAP sensor went bad, noticed the voltage reading very low at key on this morning, so I ordered a new one. For the time being I reinstalled the original 1-Bar MAP sensor and created a new tune based on that and the free flowing exhaust. Pulling the turbo made a huge difference. Wrestled with the engine all freaking day but it's finally back together, just need to put it back in. Have the back lifted because I'm going to weld an O2 bung for the wideband into the Y-Pipe collector as soon as I am done writing this. Exhaust came out pretty sweet, when the car is down you see only about half of the exhaust tips from behind. Gonna try to have a much better idle video up soon, as well as some around the town driving and prep for the blower...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Quick update before I leave the house, started working on a backup engine because I know the cast one in the car is eventually going to give up the ghost sooner or later. When that happens, hopefully after the goal is met, I will replace the short block with this one and just set boost to 10-psi, back off the timing a little, and just drive and enjoy it on the street. I have about five engines left just sitting in the garage, three of which I am not even sure what they are just yet, just pulled them from third gens and let them sit years back...

Anyways, I pulled another known 305 from the bunch and started to disassemble it. I love when I come across a 305 already bored .030 over, as the first thing I check for is a longer stroke, hoping the former owner went the 335 stroker route, but no such luck, stroke is 3.48". Pulled the timing cover and cam as well, didn't run the numbers on the cam, and didn't check to see for any GM stampings yet, but I'm sure it is nothing special. Still need to drain the oil, pull the pan and see what's under her skirt...

Cylinder number 4 concerns me, as the bore has two small grooves in it. My finger nail cannot pick it up nor get stuck in it whatsoever, which is good, but I can in fact feel it when I rub my finger over it. Might have to bore it .040 over if I do in fact use it, don't think I can get away with it in a boosted application. Naturally aspirated, possibly. Anyways, keep those fingers crossed as maybe the putz who owned this engine prior put a forged crank in it. Wishful thinking for an anemic 305, I know, but that's the fun part when rebuilding an unknown engine. Hope you guys and gals are enjoying your labor day weekend...

305 w/.030 pistons;



Stock stroke;



Cylinder number four;

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I ran worse cylinders in my car, it will be ok. But may want to open up the ring gap or tune alittle richer

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

That deck is junk. I'd be shocked if it didn't leak water, where it previously leaked water.

I used to have a bunch of random stock motors in the shop too, but I've come to the realization that the time I have left is precious and I don't want to waste it with stuff that may or may not blow up. I really think you should have one machined properly, buy good internals, and enjoy a reliable combo.

The good news is, I made the scrap metal guy happy a few months ago.

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

That is good news, because I didn't want to go that deep with the engine. I have a set of Clevite bearings as well as some fresh freeze plugs, figured I would put them to good use. The only thing that bothers me is the noise I am hearing when I turn the crank by hand, nothing major like grinding, just sounds like something is loose during every rotation. Hoping it isn't a wrist pin, as I don't want to go that deep into it. Rings I'll do though being the motor is just about apart. Oil is drained, just have to drop the pan. Would be nice to be surprised by seeing splayed main caps lol. I have a video I want you to listen to, will try to have it up in an hour or so, it's that noise coming from the bottom end when I turn it over by hand. I want to try to get an idea of what it sounds like before pulling the pan...

I agree Joe, the deck needs to be resurfaced, but there is no way I am going that far with it. Remember that I have the original engine on the side for when I evenutally put it back to stock, so I don't mind if the temporary engines are beat up and rough. If the engine gives me a good year of some fun, then I am happy with it. I'll scrap all my engines eventually. That ZR1 I posted a video of made me realize it is time to go the opposite direction of built not bought, I'm not twenty years old anymore and I am tired of ripping engines apart...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yeah that doesnt sound good to have noises while turning over. Is there a clearance issue somewhere?

If you do rings just inspect everything to be sure. Dingle berry ball hone it and throw it back together. I did this on mine and worked great. I had scratches that needed .020 over to clean up but i said not yet.

Wrist pins are relatively cheap so if bad no worrys

project89

iTrader: (1)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-5-0-5-...dXPcay&vxp=mtr

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

This is the noise, a light thump after every ratchet turn. Hard to detect, but after the winding of the ratchet, and after the turning of the crank, you will hear that light thump at the end of the turn. Doesn't sound too major, but I want to get an idea before pulling the pan. Sounds like either a rod bearing, or wristpin, on one or multiple cylinders. I doubt the crank was spun by it over the years, but you never know...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Haha, you're the man.

project89

iTrader: (1)

those ugly dish pistons need to go lol

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I'm exactly in the same boat. I was thinking of grading some land out back and spending 50k or so building a bigger shop, but now I'm thinking a brand new vette is probably a better purchase.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Sounds more like the piston rocking in the bore.

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I'm liking that setup you posted...

I just pulled my deck apart in the yard and am trying to redo it before Winter gets here, need to yank what is left of a tree out that got struck by lightning a few months ago, then add to the deck making it an L shape. Trying to squeeze a pool in there. I say go with the new Corvette, life moves way too fast, enjoy your passion and what makes you happy. My next vette will be a heads/cams '90's ZR1 w/stalled 4L60 swap. I bet I can see ten seconds on motor with that setup...

If that's it, just cold chatter prior to rings and pistons heating up, then I'm a happy camper.

project89

iTrader: (1)

mind ur compression ratio with those flatops , not sure what heads ur using

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

58cc 416 heads, heavily worked.

Cometic MLS give me a final compression ratio of around 9.0:1.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

No such luck on the splayed main caps lol. Stock bottom end. Cleaned off the old oil pan gasket residue, pulled the stock oil pump and trashed it, and that ridiculous Fram filter is coming off next. Oil pan isn't that bad, going to clean it up then hit it with some paint...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Okay, so it is definitely not cold chatter. Had time to give it a quick rod bearing test, and for those who don't know how to do this, just bring each cylinder up to top dead center by hand, then keep turning until the piston starts to slightly make it's way back down the cylinder. What this does is allow the rod to rest on the bottom side of the crank bearing. At this point, push down on each cylinder with your fingers. If you feel the cylinder move down significantly along with a "thud" sound, then your connecting rod bearings are on their way out. Depending on just how much downward the piston moved along with how loud the "thud" is will give you an idea of just how bad the bearings are. Remember, bearings are supposed to wear down in time, its normal, but they need replacement just like every other friction oriented part. This is the noise you are hearing in the video I put up, as six out of the eight cylinders were making that noise during the rod bearing test...

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Rob,

Junk rings do the same thing though. Either way, pull the caps and check the bearings. It doesn't take long.

I built a motor for my Bayliner over the summer (that I didn't end up using because the JBweld on the old one hasn't failed, go figure) and I used an "Engine Tech" rebuild kit. Mains, rods, rings, cam bearings, freeze plugs, full gasket set, etc was like $120 if that.

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I'm a pita w/noises Joe, I'm the type that pulls up to every stop light, lowers the radio, tells everyone to shut up lol and listens to the engine for noises, even in a newer car. Two of the pistons had no rod bearing play, but the other six had some. It would freaking drive me insane having to listen to that while cruising around, especially with the time invested in swapping everything from the MLS gaskets and up over lol. I have a set of Clevite rod bearings sitting in the garage, I was going to use them anyway. Just don't want to see a spun crank when I pull the rods, but from what I am hearing, I seriously doubt it. The hell with the mains, just doing rod bearings, freeze plugs and new high pressure oil pump...

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

How do the cam bearings look?

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

The front bearing looks pretty good, but based on the feel of the four cam journals behind it, they do feel to be a little scratched, so I am assuming the bearings are scratched as well. As fate would have it I have four new bearings left from Clevite. The cam that I pulled looks to be a stocker, I have the numbers, but I don't want to waste time searching it...

project89

iTrader: (1)

engine tech is good stuff , most of there kits consist of king engine bearings, clevite ,speedpro or kieth black and sealed power stuff

project89

iTrader: (1)

just did this on a 2.4L 4cyl motor i stole a head off of for that grand am #3 piston drops about 1/8th of an inch

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Four cylinder Grand Am? I thought it was a 3.4 V6...?

I might do the unthinkable with this 305 Dave lol, I might actually destroke it.

project89

iTrader: (1)

opps sorry im working on 2 cars atm

one is the v6 grand am gt 3400 ( i actually just got the motor buttoned up on this one after pulling the heads to helicoil all the rocker studs holes)

the other is the grand prix 4cyl , soon as this car is done i have a trans swap to do on a 3400 v6 alero , and finally after that it looks like ill have a 3.8 to 3.8 supercharger swap


then hopefully back to work on the iroc

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

That is exactly what I am doing at the moment, we're in the same boat. Just to update the thread, the Buick Regal snapped the timing chain at 110-mph on the highway, engine seized. Recently bought an L67 from a '95 Riviera that I am waiting on, but the stock L27 is already out. Pulling a FWD seized engine with the converter still bolted to the flywheel was fun as hell, yes guys that was sarcasm lol, but I got it out. Was planning that kind of swap the moment I brought the car home if it didn't sell right away, just not this freaking fast lol.

Snapped timing chain gave me no choice, had to get it done before continuing with the GTA, and I wasn't going to waste my time installing another NA 3800. I might do something with the factory L27 though, a couple of new guides for the heads, new valves, forged bottom end, etc, and it will be a solid street engine. Block is okay believe it or not, so are the cylinders. Wow though haven't heard a noise like that in a long time, the moment it happened I knew I heard a rod. I was beating on that engine, I admit. Good thing about the L67 swap is the only change needed are the injectors and MAF (same PCM), which are coming with it. Factory shift points I'll live with...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

The ever evolving GTA build, I'm back on it. I'm also back to the turbo, but with a little twist. Cannot justify spending that much money on a freaking SC head unit when turbo's are that much cheaper and easier to replace. Twist is I am going to keep the stainless steel headers and Y-Pipe right where they are. I also really didn't want to change cams for the blower. It's a no brainer, RMT it is. Will maintain an uncluttered engine bay, just need to figure a way to get the intake tubing leading from the back to the FMIC, as well as take care of the oil feed and return. Pro's; 110 LSA in the cam which I never planned on changing for the blower, no inspection needed in the state of New Jersey as of this past May for 20 years or older vehicles, there is an abundance of room where the muffler is, and now there is enough room for a 5" DP dump...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Okay, so the supercharger concept was scrapped, and I'm back to the turbo. The one I am going to use needs a rebuild, as after taking it apart over the weekend I found the shaft journal lightly scratched by the two bearing locations. So the bearings are out. I ordered a fresh rebuild kit, so it will get new bearings, thrust bearing, collar and seals. The shaft journal will be polished. Not sure why one of the thrust bearing retaining pins on the center section was pushed down, but I need to pull that back up as well. The exhaust side showed no signs of coked oil. It's a 72mm compressor wheel, .96 a/r on the exhaust side. Not going to bother with the RMT setup idea, just going back to the FMT setup I originally had, though I want to smooth down the welds on the system and have it coated. I might just spray it myself to save time. Gonna throw up that long tube header system for sale, so if anyone wants it locally hit me up. I paid $250.00 to the door, and I barely even used them, just a few idle vids. Going to put them up for $150.00 if anyone wants them...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

You should get some STS or banks cast manifolds and do twins, with nice tight downpipe routing.

It would be nice to see a twin turbo thirdgen that didn't look like an abortion, had good plug access, and didn't melt anything within reach.


-- Joe

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

As long as the build gets completed, we'll be happy.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I came to my senses. Seven grand for a head unit and bracket, not worth it.

It's an awesome idea, but it would take too much time. I hate welding cast iron, and I would have to finish the set I started awhile back, get cast iron T3 flanges with wastegate flanges in them because I sold the ones I bought previously, cut and weld everything, then run 2 to 2 1/4" downpipes into a dual y-pipe that I saved from SLP. It would work, but the single system is ready to go, just gonna rebuild the turbo and put it all back on...

It's long overdue. Although Dave and a few others didn't throw up dyno results or track times, so technically they are not done yet either lol. You and Steve are the only ones who threw up real results...

1986Z28OWNER

iTrader: (1)

Funny, I can change my plugs quite easily from up top, have yet to melt a single thing in my car, and I think its pretty well layed out aswell.

Maybe it would be nicer to see a build actually get finished around here. ( No offense to you Street, just wanna see something get built.)

How long before you change your mind again anesthes???

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Your car is nothing like Robs, or mine, or anyone else's. You've cut your innder fenders, and basically redesigned the engine bay/radiator area to fit your turbos. You're not constrained by the limitations of the stock engine bay. You've also got a machine shop at your disposal, with fabrication equipment, etc. Comparing your build to the average turbo build we see on here, with welds that look like they were done with a coat hanger and a car battery is not fair. I'm sure you knew exactly what I was talking about.


Funny that you mention that, I was thinking maybe swap the SBC out for a 6.0 powerstroke in my Formula.

No not really.


-- Joe

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Exactly, thats my biggest gripe with blowers in general. Too much money. Centri is half a turbo and turbos generally are less than 2 grand. The markup on the brackets and stuff just kill the idea for me.

I like blowers i been in a few different kinds and especially love roots style/twin screen deals but unless you find a take off lsa blower, building an ls, it just isnt worth it

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Shoulda bought my J-trim and made a bracket.

The LT1 manifolds I welded were fine, easy to weld. It was just not right for the engine bay. With the cross over under the pan, or in the front everything just cooked. I probed around with my IR gun and it was hot as hell.

I would have loved to try a set of those STS manifolds but I couldn't find any, and the Banks manifolds were way big money.

I've seen them used on a thirdgen, and it's a really nice clean install.

I'm almost to the point where I'm content with the Formula build. I've surely made some mistakes along the way.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

The cost of the brackets are absolutely insane. Some of the tubing is understandable, when they have tight wacky radius bends.

I think I have maybe $100 in materials into my bracket. Still, my current Vortech setup cost more than my T76 build but to be fair it's not all Chinese either.

I don't get why the chinese don't start making centrifugal blowers.. I've only seen the procomp/speedmaster knock off S-trim, but then they got sued because the gearbox was a direct copy so they can't sell them any longer.

-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

mines not done just on hold till i can gather the funds to grab that ms stuff from joe , been a lil rough since i just took a 62% hit to my income , slowly cutting that percentage down though so hopefully ill be back upto 100% soon

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Eh?? How that happen?

What exactly is it that you do? Mechanic?

-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

mine is stupid easy to change the plugs , even if the downpipe was out the back of the car it would still be easy to do

i could still run my same setup even if i didnt push the radiator mount forward by 5 inches , and even so its something anyone with even the most basic of tools can do

project89

iTrader: (1)

tech field ( payment processing ), self employed , my job on the farm is used to cover the power bill for all the hardware i run for it
i took the pay hit about 2.5 months ago

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Not true, I posted dyno results and track times too. And I just changed my hot side. Results soon to come this weekend. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...-hot-side.html

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Charles I want this damn thing done more than anyone, I don't like being this far behind, it's ridiculous. zz17iroc, I didn't mean that in a negative way towards you, you definitely got yours done on schedule. Headers and Y-Pipe are off, waste of damn time. Good looking setup, but I shouldn't have done it. I share everything, I try to anyway. I said a page or two ago that my 2-Bar MAP sensor was reading horribly a short while after I pulled the turbo so I ordered a new one, slapped the 1-Bar MAP sensor on there for the time being, and the engine, although started and idled, didn't sound right to me after the header install. It ran, just seemed a tad off, thought nothing of it, figured it was in the tune somewhere that I hadn't looked at yet. Pulled the plugs first before removing the headers today, and bam, number one cylinder had detonated. Compression check showed me the rings are fine, read 150-psi with not much deviation between cylinders and held all around, very lucky. Good thing it didn't happen under boost, and good thing I noticed it in the EBL sensor diagnostic screen. The number one injector ohm'ed okay, checked it after the compression check. It was definitely the bad MAP sensor, was reading in the 2's at key on when it should have been high 4's, it must have just recently went bad when I noticed it. Anyways, headers are off, putting the turbo headers back on as I write this, still waiting for the turbo rebuild kit for the bearings and thrust bearing, shaft journal already smoothed and polished...

86CamaroDan

Holy smokes, I'd be stuffing a bore scope in that bad larry and taking a good look around if i were you.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Hehe, we put another spark plug in and she fired right up, the new plug fixed the light miss, and the engine wasn't smoking. The other engine has new rod bearings, did them the other day. It would only take me a few hours to transfer it all over to the other block, funny thing is the Cometic MLS were cut for .030 pistons already, would just spray them again with copper seal, but I don't think there is any significant damage to the engine that is in there. Would like to see what the top of that piston looks like though, to be honest. More work...