Going from a single turbo to twins
11-17-2015, 01:43 PM
#54
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
u could also do a egt gauge in each bank , its how we used to do it before widebands were common , and they are pretty darn cheap
11-19-2015, 09:33 AM
#57
11-19-2015, 09:47 AM
#59
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
just build 1 can and feed both valve covers to it , u canbuild them as vented cans with a breather ontop or as closed systems and feed a line to the turbo inlets for increased crankcase vacum
11-19-2015, 09:51 AM
#60
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
save ur money and build ur own custom can , they are very easy to build and then u can build it how u want , for were u want to put it and mounting
just build 1 can and feed both valve covers to it , u canbuild them as vented cans with a breather ontop or as closed systems and feed a line to the turbo inlets for increased crankcase vacum
just build 1 can and feed both valve covers to it , u canbuild them as vented cans with a breather ontop or as closed systems and feed a line to the turbo inlets for increased crankcase vacum
11-19-2015, 02:29 PM
#63
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I ran 14-16psi for years on my old 355 and never had a blowby issue.
A catch can will cure oil spraying out of your breather, but the underlying problem should be cured.
-- Joe
11-19-2015, 02:35 PM
#64
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I don't get a lot of blowby though. I ran a catch can last year and there was barely any oil in it. I just want the crank case to breathe. All my cylinders are at 140 psi on a cold compression test.
11-19-2015, 02:49 PM
#65
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
If I remember correctly I set the top ring gap to .024'' and the second ring to .024'' as per the .006" that sealed power chart that came with the rings described.
Last edited by Badass355ciz28; 11-19-2015 at 03:07 PM.
11-19-2015, 04:05 PM
#66
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
-- Joe
11-20-2015, 05:59 AM
#69
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
If this wasn't a street car, i'd just do fender exit. Since "Turbos are considered mufflers, for NHRA purposes".
But, since it's a street car.
What is the outlet size of the turbo? 3"? I think I'd do dual 2.5's or 2.75's into a single 4".
2.5" pipe = 4.91" area
2.75" pipe = 5.94"
3" pipe = 7.07" area
4" pipe = 12.57" area
Your dual 3" pipes going into a 4" pipe doesn't make sense since 4" can't support the same flow as the dual 3". So by using 3" between the turbo and the merge seems pointless to me. (others may differ in opinion).
2.75" would be idea, but 2.5" would work too and give you the clearance you need.
-- Joe
11-20-2015, 07:17 AM
#70
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
That's the problem with mounting turbos forward of the steering linkage.
If this wasn't a street car, i'd just do fender exit. Since "Turbos are considered mufflers, for NHRA purposes".
But, since it's a street car.
What is the outlet size of the turbo? 3"? I think I'd do dual 2.5's or 2.75's into a single 4".
2.5" pipe = 4.91" area
2.75" pipe = 5.94"
3" pipe = 7.07" area
4" pipe = 12.57" area
Your dual 3" pipes going into a 4" pipe doesn't make sense since 4" can't support the same flow as the dual 3". So by using 3" between the turbo and the merge seems pointless to me. (others may differ in opinion).
2.75" would be idea, but 2.5" would work too and give you the clearance you need.
-- Joe
If this wasn't a street car, i'd just do fender exit. Since "Turbos are considered mufflers, for NHRA purposes".
But, since it's a street car.
What is the outlet size of the turbo? 3"? I think I'd do dual 2.5's or 2.75's into a single 4".
2.5" pipe = 4.91" area
2.75" pipe = 5.94"
3" pipe = 7.07" area
4" pipe = 12.57" area
Your dual 3" pipes going into a 4" pipe doesn't make sense since 4" can't support the same flow as the dual 3". So by using 3" between the turbo and the merge seems pointless to me. (others may differ in opinion).
2.75" would be idea, but 2.5" would work too and give you the clearance you need.
-- Joe
11-20-2015, 08:22 AM
#71
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Yeah they are 3" outlets on the turbine side. I will have to put the car on jack stands and go from there. Passenger side will be easy but the driver side might be a challenge. I was very exhausted last night so that's probably why I wasn't very creative on how the driver side would run.
I've had a lift since the 90s.. I couldn't live without one.
-- Joe
11-21-2015, 08:38 PM
#78
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I'll find someone to weld one on for me. I got my catch cans in today and ordered up a new cooling fan setup. Proform 67015. Good for 2800 cfm. Managed to order it through advanced auto parts for 110.00 shipped to my house.
11-22-2015, 10:18 AM
#79
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
If you wanna swing by my shop and use my TIG you can. I'm a little uncomfortable welding very thin aluminum, but your welcome to use my machine if you want to do it.
-- Joe
11-23-2015, 08:55 AM
#82
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: 2005 5.3L, LS6 Cam
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Looking good! Im more interested to see if that 1" core is gonna keep this thing cool!
Jay
Jay
11-23-2015, 09:34 AM
#83
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Its two 1'' cores. Same as my bigger radiator that I took out . Most highest temp I had on the hottest/humidest day was 220* but that's because I was sitting for awhile. Once moving it dropped a lot.
11-23-2015, 05:10 PM
#84
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Couple of things. Looking through the build, ur doing a good job but I'll shoot u some advice.
The rad u can easily cut a 45 silicone hose off eBay for like $5 shipped and clear that turbo pipe, then use a connector to run another 45 or look for an OEM hose to fit the application. Your rad is a bit on the small side core wise but should be fine with the dual 1" cores. The dual 1"cores are what everyone uses like be cool in there 1000hp radiators. I actually called be cool and they said the only difference between there 400-600hp rads and the 1000hp is the cooling fan setups. Why go with a 16" core over a 19" core? Seems like you didn't lower the rad to reason for a shorter radiator? I would have run the tallest and widest you could fit.
Now your fan is not going to pull 2800cfm sorry man, that pro form fan is not really rated at 2800cfm and even if it is its at 0 static pressure, once you put something in front of it it's Cfm rating is gona drop drastically. I would invest in a better fan now. Look at OEM fans that fit a 22" core. And u might get a 2 spd brand new OEM replacement for less than $100 all day all over the net. I just put a new mark 8 2 speed on mine for less than $100. sPaL rates there fans at more than 0" static pressure so they pull a lot more air than the cheap pro form, jegs, summit etc brands.
The vband a should be fine as long as you don't have any serious weight on them, def brace the turbos.
Interested to see how to figure out dump pipes, I got turbo headers for my 5.3 swap and returned them bc the piping would be annoying and I run a hydroboost and notched firewall lol.
Exhaust size between dual 3" and single 4" is negledable. Even tho dual 3" has slightly more area it also has a lot more surface friction that slows exhaust velocity. I would say that the single 4" flows as much as the dual 3"s given that their isn't much of a difference in area. I actually just finished my single 4 header back setup.
I would hope your engine temps are much lower than that. I ran the same rad but a 31x19 dual 1" core and had a good set of OEM fans on it and my 521 would sit in summer heat and never get above 190. It's all about fan CFM, radiator cap placement and your system fluid. I also only ran a 7lb cap bc that's how efficient my setup was. How much higher is your rad cap compared to your water neck?
The rad u can easily cut a 45 silicone hose off eBay for like $5 shipped and clear that turbo pipe, then use a connector to run another 45 or look for an OEM hose to fit the application. Your rad is a bit on the small side core wise but should be fine with the dual 1" cores. The dual 1"cores are what everyone uses like be cool in there 1000hp radiators. I actually called be cool and they said the only difference between there 400-600hp rads and the 1000hp is the cooling fan setups. Why go with a 16" core over a 19" core? Seems like you didn't lower the rad to reason for a shorter radiator? I would have run the tallest and widest you could fit.
Now your fan is not going to pull 2800cfm sorry man, that pro form fan is not really rated at 2800cfm and even if it is its at 0 static pressure, once you put something in front of it it's Cfm rating is gona drop drastically. I would invest in a better fan now. Look at OEM fans that fit a 22" core. And u might get a 2 spd brand new OEM replacement for less than $100 all day all over the net. I just put a new mark 8 2 speed on mine for less than $100. sPaL rates there fans at more than 0" static pressure so they pull a lot more air than the cheap pro form, jegs, summit etc brands.
The vband a should be fine as long as you don't have any serious weight on them, def brace the turbos.
Interested to see how to figure out dump pipes, I got turbo headers for my 5.3 swap and returned them bc the piping would be annoying and I run a hydroboost and notched firewall lol.
Exhaust size between dual 3" and single 4" is negledable. Even tho dual 3" has slightly more area it also has a lot more surface friction that slows exhaust velocity. I would say that the single 4" flows as much as the dual 3"s given that their isn't much of a difference in area. I actually just finished my single 4 header back setup.
I would hope your engine temps are much lower than that. I ran the same rad but a 31x19 dual 1" core and had a good set of OEM fans on it and my 521 would sit in summer heat and never get above 190. It's all about fan CFM, radiator cap placement and your system fluid. I also only ran a 7lb cap bc that's how efficient my setup was. How much higher is your rad cap compared to your water neck?
11-23-2015, 09:06 PM
#88
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Couple of things. Looking through the build, ur doing a good job but I'll shoot u some advice.
The rad u can easily cut a 45 silicone hose off eBay for like $5 shipped and clear that turbo pipe, then use a connector to run another 45 or look for an OEM hose to fit the application. Your rad is a bit on the small side core wise but should be fine with the dual 1" cores. The dual 1"cores are what everyone uses like be cool in there 1000hp radiators. I actually called be cool and they said the only difference between there 400-600hp rads and the 1000hp is the cooling fan setups. Why go with a 16" core over a 19" core? Seems like you didn't lower the rad to reason for a shorter radiator? I would have run the tallest and widest you could fit.
Now your fan is not going to pull 2800cfm sorry man, that pro form fan is not really rated at 2800cfm and even if it is its at 0 static pressure, once you put something in front of it it's Cfm rating is gona drop drastically. I would invest in a better fan now. Look at OEM fans that fit a 22" core. And u might get a 2 spd brand new OEM replacement for less than $100 all day all over the net. I just put a new mark 8 2 speed on mine for less than $100. sPaL rates there fans at more than 0" static pressure so they pull a lot more air than the cheap pro form, jegs, summit etc brands.
The vband a should be fine as long as you don't have any serious weight on them, def brace the turbos.
Interested to see how to figure out dump pipes, I got turbo headers for my 5.3 swap and returned them bc the piping would be annoying and I run a hydroboost and notched firewall lol.
Exhaust size between dual 3" and single 4" is negledable. Even tho dual 3" has slightly more area it also has a lot more surface friction that slows exhaust velocity. I would say that the single 4" flows as much as the dual 3"s given that their isn't much of a difference in area. I actually just finished my single 4 header back setup.
I would hope your engine temps are much lower than that. I ran the same rad but a 31x19 dual 1" core and had a good set of OEM fans on it and my 521 would sit in summer heat and never get above 190. It's all about fan CFM, radiator cap placement and your system fluid. I also only ran a 7lb cap bc that's how efficient my setup was. How much higher is your rad cap compared to your water neck?
The rad u can easily cut a 45 silicone hose off eBay for like $5 shipped and clear that turbo pipe, then use a connector to run another 45 or look for an OEM hose to fit the application. Your rad is a bit on the small side core wise but should be fine with the dual 1" cores. The dual 1"cores are what everyone uses like be cool in there 1000hp radiators. I actually called be cool and they said the only difference between there 400-600hp rads and the 1000hp is the cooling fan setups. Why go with a 16" core over a 19" core? Seems like you didn't lower the rad to reason for a shorter radiator? I would have run the tallest and widest you could fit.
Now your fan is not going to pull 2800cfm sorry man, that pro form fan is not really rated at 2800cfm and even if it is its at 0 static pressure, once you put something in front of it it's Cfm rating is gona drop drastically. I would invest in a better fan now. Look at OEM fans that fit a 22" core. And u might get a 2 spd brand new OEM replacement for less than $100 all day all over the net. I just put a new mark 8 2 speed on mine for less than $100. sPaL rates there fans at more than 0" static pressure so they pull a lot more air than the cheap pro form, jegs, summit etc brands.
The vband a should be fine as long as you don't have any serious weight on them, def brace the turbos.
Interested to see how to figure out dump pipes, I got turbo headers for my 5.3 swap and returned them bc the piping would be annoying and I run a hydroboost and notched firewall lol.
Exhaust size between dual 3" and single 4" is negledable. Even tho dual 3" has slightly more area it also has a lot more surface friction that slows exhaust velocity. I would say that the single 4" flows as much as the dual 3"s given that their isn't much of a difference in area. I actually just finished my single 4 header back setup.
I would hope your engine temps are much lower than that. I ran the same rad but a 31x19 dual 1" core and had a good set of OEM fans on it and my 521 would sit in summer heat and never get above 190. It's all about fan CFM, radiator cap placement and your system fluid. I also only ran a 7lb cap bc that's how efficient my setup was. How much higher is your rad cap compared to your water neck?
I went with a little bit smaller radiator to clear up some room in the engine bay and to tuck it in the core support better. .My last one was a 31x19 radiator which worked ok but didn't tuck it in much.
I am still considering joining the down pipes into my existing 4" exhaust. I just have to get under the car and do some configuring.
My last fan setup probably only pulled 2400 cfm but they seemed to do an ok job.
The radiator cap is much higher than the water neck.
11-24-2015, 09:50 AM
#89
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
look into the lincolin mark vi or whatever fan , its supposed to be the best fan u can get
here u go
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mark-8-VIII-...xSbHqj&vxp=mtr
here u go
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mark-8-VIII-...xSbHqj&vxp=mtr
11-24-2015, 09:52 AM
#90
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
heres a cheap one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-Mark...FWJB6H&vxp=mtr
or see if u can grab one from the junkyard so u can grab the control relays as well iirc it takes a 40 amp relay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-Mark...FWJB6H&vxp=mtr
or see if u can grab one from the junkyard so u can grab the control relays as well iirc it takes a 40 amp relay
11-24-2015, 09:58 AM
#91
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
heres a cheap one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-Mark...FWJB6H&vxp=mtr
or see if u can grab one from the junkyard so u can grab the control relays as well iirc it takes a 40 amp relay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-Mark...FWJB6H&vxp=mtr
or see if u can grab one from the junkyard so u can grab the control relays as well iirc it takes a 40 amp relay
Only issue with the fan is the depth. It's a deep fan
11-24-2015, 10:05 AM
#92
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
That's what I run now. Sucks a good bit of air. Make sure u verify its a 2 speed as they make one that isn't. I also got a custom harness specifically for this fan so it operates 2 speeds with a simple hookup. Kit comes with temp senders if you choose and start around $70. U gotta remember that this fan can spike 60amps on startup so the harness comes with big 70 amp relays and it's great quality and made in the USA.
Only issue with the fan is the depth. It's a deep fan
Only issue with the fan is the depth. It's a deep fan
11-24-2015, 10:09 AM
#93
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I heard that fan is decent, I don't think it's on par with the mark 5/8 fan but another popular one is the ford contour dual fan setup which pulls a lot of air as well. The problem is his small core size will limit his choices considerably.
11-24-2015, 11:02 AM
#96
11-24-2015, 09:12 PM
#98
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
This is a copy of the sPaL setup that be cool sells for like $400+ dollars. But this one cost $100. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Dual-11-Electric-Radiator-Cooling-Fans-w-Shroud-Extreme-Cooling-Twin-2800-CFM-/181649138963?nav=SEARCH
Problem is its 23.5" wide but it's 16" tall which is perfect for you. If you can trim 3/4" off the sides you'd be good.
Other fans to look at are cars with single large fans, your small 22" core will usually eliminate all dual fans due to the small core. Mustang V6 fan is prob close.
Problem is its 23.5" wide but it's 16" tall which is perfect for you. If you can trim 3/4" off the sides you'd be good.
Other fans to look at are cars with single large fans, your small 22" core will usually eliminate all dual fans due to the small core. Mustang V6 fan is prob close.