Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

My front end shakes a lot when I brake!

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Old 08-17-2004, 11:55 PM
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Car: 91 Z28
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My front end shakes a lot when I brake!

Just recently my front end started shaking violently when I brake. You can feel it in the pedal. It doesn't happen all the time, but quite a bit. And it's pretty scary when it does happen. I replaced all my rotors and put new ceramic pads on just about 3 months ago. I also put on solo bleaders and bled my breaks. I haven't done any hard brakeing and so I'm assuming my rotors are okay. (they're new) Well I took my car to Big O' Tires because they do free estimates, and they said I need a new Idler arm and Center Link. They also said they need to resurface my rotors and align my wheels after. Total estimate was for $575.00

What do you guys think. I doubt I need my rotors resurfaced. I can get these 2 parts from Kragen or Monument a lot cheaper than through them. But do you think it can be this? I've been lied to by mechanics before, so I don't trust a lot of them. Any help you can provide would be great.

Thanks!!
Old 08-18-2004, 02:50 AM
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Dude you live in concord, I live in Walnut Creek, lol

The centerlink and idler arms are the easiest things to replace on the steering linkage. They also take the most wear out of all the other parts.

Personally though, I'd think that could be possible, but also play in the A-arm bushings and ball joints could do it too. Then did you replace your wheel bearings when you did all this nice rotor stuff or use the old ones?

BTW, if you need anyone to really look at your brakes or suspension PM me, I'm pretty good with this stuff.

Last edited by Joez88Camaro; 08-18-2004 at 02:56 AM.
Old 08-18-2004, 05:19 PM
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Car: 1991 camaro Z28
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i had a simular problem couple of years ago. Found that the weld by the steering box was broke so the the box was actuly shaken(commen problem on these cars). Have some one move the steering wheel back and forth and take a look at the box to see if its moving at all. If its not that then its probley the tie rods, or ball joints. Keep us updated.
Old 08-19-2004, 01:01 AM
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if you can feel it in the pedal then it would almost have to just be rotors warpage or i dont know what else

the cause of this is rotors warped on FWD cars i know, very common problem with stock rotors

good luck
Old 08-21-2004, 04:28 AM
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Dave recently came over to my house and I went to help him with the problem. It seemed it only happened at high to mid speed (braking strongly from over 50mph) and it looked like he was one of the rare few that was a 91 with a factory wonderbar. So in my mind that pretty much rule out the steering box idea. Comparing his car to mine (with completly messed up rotors) I think that his calipers, rotors, pads and bearings are perfectly fine. This just leaves the fact that his car is a high mileage car with what seems to be a mostly factory stock steering system. I figure that the centerlink, idler arms, a-arm bushing and/or balljoints may be or near shot, making it so that under the heavy load of hard braking they cause what he described as a complete front end shake. He said it didn't seem to focus on any particular side and in my driving everything seemed to function pretty even, but the steering seemed a bit worn. I'm figuring that replacing the centerlink and idler arm would be the fix based on this. Can anyone else offer any further insight?
Old 08-21-2004, 03:25 PM
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Same Problem

When I apply the brakes from over 50mph, especially going downhill, my front end starts shaking like the dickens. There is a slight vibration braking from lower speeds. This has been going on for a few weeks, but I haven't had the cash to fix it, so I've just been babying the car. Should have the means to fix whatever in the next couple of weeks though.

Shaking seems to be coming from the right side, and there is a very slight pull to the right as well. Braking at low speeds, I can definitely feel a rhythmic rub from the right front wheel, like the rotor is warped. I'm sure my suspension could use a rebuild as well, but for now, I'm hoping that new rotors will fix the problem.
Old 08-21-2004, 04:52 PM
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had the same problem after i put my drag struts on and i got an alignment and fixed the problem. a lot cheaper than what big 0 told you.
Old 09-21-2004, 04:25 PM
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Like A New Car!

Yep, it was a combo of things, warped front rotors, no back brakes which overloaded the fronts and likely caused warpage, warped rotors working a very sloppy pass side idler arm. Got it all fixed, plus a new rear pinion seal (between u joint and diff, holds diff fluid in), for 435 bucks parts and labor.

The steering is so much tighter now, it's unreal! When I first got the car back, the shaking was reduced, as the idler arm had been replaced, (along with rear brakes and pinion seal), but the car still shook. So the shop machined my front rotors free of charge, graza and repacka my wheelbearings, and then I test drove it again. Problem solved, completely. The guy at the shop said the steering should be like new--they redid all the greasefittings, etc. as well--and it is. Took a super tight turn so fast last night I couldn't believe it.

They also said my struts were worn, but that'll be next month. Didn't realize I had no back brakes--now the car has immense stopping power compared to before. I highly recommend fixing this stuff ASAP, as one worn part will affect another, and so on.

Note: Mechanic told me the FIRST thing to check, when there's shaking, is the rotors--they didn't on mine cause I wasn't there to describe the problem, so they thought I just wanted the idler arm. Also, hang around the shop when the work is being done, it's educational, and you are there to answer any questions.
Old 09-21-2004, 05:46 PM
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Just adding for goonie, how'd everything go with the rebuilt front end. I got the strut mounts installed and an alignment (as well as that damn water pump, radiator, etc, etc) call me, you should check out how my car handles now.
Old 09-21-2004, 09:25 PM
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Joe, your car already handled pretty well. As far as my Z28 goes, the new idler arm, centerlink, and inner tie rods really helped. I also got an alignment. Boy I was way out of wack after the work we did. I was probably way out before though. So now I don't get such a strong violent vibration when I brake....

But I can still feel an unusual vibration/dragging feeling when I break hard, especially from higher speeds. I took my car to the shop and they said they couldn't feel anything. But I know my car better than anyone. There is a slight shaking feeling. I know my rotors and pads are all new. What still gives??
Old 09-21-2004, 10:02 PM
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Car: '91 Firebird Convertible
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Concord, Walnut Creek... San Mateo.

My suspension has almost 170K miles on it. That's buckload. Until I added the wonderbar (just today in fact) I had a good deal of "play" in the front end. It totally felt like each of the front wheels was doing its own thing. Now with the wonderbar, my front end is solid. Problem totally magnified with speed. If you do not have this 50 dollar mod to your front end, your need to.

Now concerning your problem, rotors are another good suggestion to check. Make sure you haven't thrown a wieght from the rims that are used for balance. Brakes pulling could be aging brake lines that expanding losing pressure to engage the caliper.

My bet is rotors. While you are fixing it, get a wonderbar added too.
Old 09-22-2004, 11:59 PM
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how much was the new idler arm, centerlink, and the inner tie rod cost u. my car is acting the same way
Old 09-23-2004, 12:51 AM
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Originally posted by GoonieZ28
But I can still feel an unusual vibration/dragging feeling when I break hard, especially from higher speeds. I took my car to the shop and they said they couldn't feel anything. But I know my car better than anyone. There is a slight shaking feeling. I know my rotors and pads are all new. What still gives??
Sorry to say it will come back in due time. What has happened is you hotspoted the rotor(s). when they are turned on a lathe, they are cold (metal has memory) and are turned true. Once on the car again, the higher the braking temps reach, the more they will warp out of trueness in the hotspot area because this area will NOT dissipate heat. Material from the pads will gradually fuse to/ or build onto this area again gradually over the next few months with every high heat stop (faster speeds).

And thats how rotors warp.

Hotspots are cause from improper breakin and or resting the hot pads onto one postion of the rotor surface for an alloted period of time after heated drastically (like running hard then sitting at a stop light for a minute or two) The metal on the rotors in this Hotspot area change properties and produce an iron compound that does not dispate heat. If not too deep of a hotspot, it can be cut away. However, the more a rotor is turned, the thinner it gets and the less it dissipates heat also
Old 09-23-2004, 03:58 PM
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Originally posted by Cadillac
While you are fixing it, get a wonderbar added too.
I was actually surprised that it looks like his 91z came stock with a wonderbar. It's a factory piece, and it looks like it's been there for a while, and I've read a few have come stock like that so thats pretty cool. At least we reduced the damn thing and got rid of some older parts. The front end vibration still makes no sense though, my rotors are complete fubar and my car never vibrates when I come to a stop. Now I'm annoyed that it still exists on his car to a degree afterwards.

BTW Dave, LOWER YOUR CAR AND INSTALL ALL THOSE PARTS YOU HAVE!!! lol. Make that thing look nice!
Old 09-23-2004, 04:07 PM
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This is making me think that we need a northcal community forum or something, I didn't know that there was this many active people close by.

Dave, the car does handle much better now though with an alignment and the strut mounts, the rubber on my stockers was shot to hell and looked really, really sad. On 680 there are a few 1-2'' bumps and potholes that could really rattle my car and the spohn/alloy ones bolted right in and made the biggest difference in how comfortable my car was to drive. Probably because the strut was bottoming out and now it has more travel.
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