Andrew91GT

If moly is such great stuff, why doesn't nascar allow it in their demolition derby cars? Food for thought.

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

DeanJ, I do have road race in the title but a more accurate title would be "Time attack/AutoX/DE car" since I do not plan on doing any wheel to wheel stuff with this thing. I will take your concerns about the bar into consideration. I think the concerns about potential defects are certainly valid. You gave an example of the seam not being welded properly on some ERW tube you saw. Could the same thing potentially happen with DOM considering that it starts life as ERW? Also, how many cage failures have occurred due to use of ERW that you are aware of?
Thanks

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

Got some new goodies in the mail, just mocked them up:


4.9 lbs
It would be a fair amount heavier if I had poly on both ends

2.22 lbs

Not a bad little weight savings for some partially unsprung weight. The main thing is that at the shortest adjustment, the LCAs are 1.25" shorter than the factory. I might be able to shorten them that much without bottoming out my driveshaft. I will have to run it through the range of motion to see what I have.

Didn't get a chance to do anything to the car today. I had to put in some overtime at work. Hopefully tomorrow I will get some good things done

Guest

Did you buy those, or make em yourself? My dad bought a lathe... I could see things being made on there

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

Well I put them together from parts sourced from different places. The tubes are from coleman racing, the rod ends and lock nuts are QA1 LH/RH thread from summit.. and im waiting on some sleeves to put in them so I can put them on the bolts. A lathe would make that part turn out a lot slicker

What kind of things were you thinking of?

Guest

First project will be some hubcentric rings. From there... who knows. With that and the mill have quite a bit of capability. Have a welder too, but NO idea how to use it at all.

Primetime91

iTrader: (15)

If you feel charitable and just want to try the lathe out, I have a little project I could outsource to you

Nothing complicated, I just need a plug made for a speedometer port in a 700R4 Super not top-secret non 3rdgen related project going on with that

Pretty please I'll pay for material cost

DeanJ

4130 is not for the amatuer or back yard builder. It is very strong for its weight. You can use thinner wall. We build ProMod cars and it is the only tubing that we are allowed. Molly requires a very specific fitting and welding technique, that is probably why it is not allowed. Read in my earlier post where I said if I had to ride in the car I would use CDS. The CDS is some tuff stuff. Dean

DeanJ

Pablo, I would hope the DOM is more closely inspected. I have never saw a cage failure from ERW simply because the type of cars I see don't use it. I'm sure there are many cars with ERW cages out there that are fine. The type of cars that probably have them are probably not high speed cars, and most, will never get crashed.Dean

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

Well I got some spacers for the rod ends and put them on the car. I managed to bring the rear axle forward just about the full 1.25 inches and have .25 inch of room for the driveshaft yoke to move in and out of the tranny. I moved the rear axle through the range of motion and I believe I have enough room.

The great news is that now the spring mounts line up. So I put the springs in. Just to see how low it would go I cranked the adjusters all the way up, threw on the wheels, and set the car down. Here are some pics:





The flash makes the "paint" look even worse

I would like to lower the front to match the rear but I'm afraid Ill cut a tire since they stick out slightly. The goal is to eventually get stepped outers for my wheels and run 18s up front so I can tuck them more. With that I will be able to bring the rears inboard about a half inch at least for proper symmetry. I will probably just raise the rear to match the front for now.

I also fixed my shock issue:




I ended up taking a nut, welding a washer to it, and then welding the broken stud from the original shock mount to the top of the nut. Yep... My welds look like poop but I just need it to hold. The washer is what the bump stop will hit once I put it on the shock.

Other than that, I didn't get much done today. I was really beat from putting in extra hours from work this past week.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

What did you do to get the fronts to fit? I had 275's on 17x9.5's (Zr1 replicas) and they rubbed ever so slightly.

Something else to consider for checking clearances, especially if you're doing time trials, is tire sidewall flex. Granted it will be less on than 16's, but here's a surprising video of my car on 255/50 16 Toyo R888. Hoosiers should grip even better tho are probably much stiffer than these.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g70n7IOcQpA

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

The fronts do rub slightly. I haven't driven it so its hard to say how bad it is but at full lock it just touches the lower gfx piece at the back of the tire. I'm 99% sure that if I shave that down slightly it will be fine. At the front it clears ok.
I'm running 5.5 inches of back spacing on the front after the use of some spacers. So I am very close to the tie rod end but in reality not any closer than I was with 17x9 SS wheels.

BBCCamaro1978

That looks really good actually. Ya, it's a little rough, but who cares? Like you said, it's easier to go nuts when you have nothing to lose. Awesome job! Love it!!! Any plans for ladder bars?

camarozz383

iTrader: (2)

wow that looks bad ***!! love the big tire!!

brdofpry85ta

iTrader: (1)

Looks awesome...where did you get the tubs from.

morrow

What's the scrub radius like on your set up pablo

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

The same as stock with 315s up front (currently). Scrub radius isn't a big deal though.

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

Tubs were custom made but I heard that wolfe racecraft made a kit for 4th gens that was similar. Don't know if it still exists.

RamIt

Seems they still do.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=824