ChevyRS-305

Its about time dor the new show season and im wanting to come back with a new2" stance. I recently bought hooker long tube headers and as i bolted them up to the engine on the stand i realized how low they hang and though "holy crap, how much ground clearance will i have?" Im wanting to go with 2" drop spindles but im affraid ill rub the ground. I do plan on upgrading from my 16" irocs to 20" irocs which means bigger tire which means gained ground clearance( i just hope i dont rub my wheel skirt with that tire). Needing to find a happy medium here guys. Pics would be nice of the oil pan to ground clearance.

FlyDoc

in my worthless opinion I would not go with 20" just to big for the car, unless your going for the clown car look. I'm running 18 275-40, when I replace tires I'll go with 30 or 35's.
and for headers send the ones you have back and get yourself a set form Hawks, you will not have any issues with them.

ChevyRS-305

Wow. You have loads of room! How big is the gap between the top of the tire and your skirt?

FlyDoc

the top of the tire is just about 1/2-1" above the finder lip, the issue is not Clarence above the tire, it is the inside of the tire rubbing on the inner fender well, front and back, and pulling out the inner plastic splash guard. now that is for the front. with careful measuring, and removing the bump stop, you can fit 315-or 345s but I would not go larger than 19's out back. check out Hot Rodding April's issue's article "13 wheel & tire sins"

reride

iTrader: (1)

FlyDoc, Whose crossmember are you using? Do you think that there is enough room to use that type of crossmember with 700R4?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

you may know this. but you are missing a washer on the end link, bottom of the sway bar side, and its all loose.

FlyDoc

thanks
I did know that it was loos, but you have a good eye, I did not see that the washer was missing.. that is exactly why we need a friend to look over you car. they will see the stuff we miss.
I had bought a new set of end-links, but have not put them on yet, I'm still putting on the coil overs out back.

FlyDoc

Yes, if you start with 2x1/4 channel, 2" angle, a saws-all & welder...LOL

I used the photos of a double hump from Hawks or RaceCraft.
Good luck

Apeiron

With a 700R4 there's no room to route the pipe between the frame and the pan.

90-irocdx3

iTrader: (4)

[/QUOTE]

what kind of rod links are those?

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Those KDW's look so good on there too. I love that car.

FlyDoc

what kind of rod links are those?[/quote]

they are 5/8" steering ends from AFCO, I got them from speedway in Lincoln NE.

FlyDoc

this is the page that the ends are on.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/afco-s...nds,41039.html

but if that does not work.

here is the part #
10401 - AFCO Steering Rod End - LH
Item #: 10610401

10402 - AFCO Steering Rod End - RH
Item #: 10610402

you will have to measure for your swedged tubes.
I have non factory spindles, so the length I got may not work for you.

word of advice. when you measure for your tubes, if you get a 1/2" increment go with the longer ones, you can easily take 1/4" off each end with no problems.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

So when you do an alignment, you adjust the turnbuckle/rod end area?

DBLTKE

iTrader: (1)

FlyDoc:

You say you have non factory spindles, exactly what do you have? I take that as meaning that you have drop spindles? You also said that you have 18" front wheels, and judging from your pictures, the tie rod ends are located inside the wheel hoop. Everywhere I've read, people say that there would be interference between the tie rod end and the wheel with too much backspacing.

FlyDoc

I'm running RaceCraft 2" Drop Spindles with steering arms for a rack & pinion pn# 300110. the wheels are 18x9.5 ZO6. how I made everything work together, is why I have the rod-ends, & I had to take about 1/4" off the bottom of the steering arm & rounded it so I would not have to use a cone spacer between it and the rod-end. I also took about 1/2 the head off the bolt.

as you can see in this photo I started off with OEM type inner tie rod ends but they hit the K- member.