TPI-Formula350-

I'm having a lot of traction issues from launch. car is putting just under 400 HP to the wheels and has a 3000 stall that is really flashing to 4400. I have MT DRs , LCARBs, LCAs, and PHB, still blaze the tire at WOT launch. I was wondering if an adj. Tq. arm would help???

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Do you have a stock TA at the moment? The x-member mounted one is alot better than the tranny mount one for racing (it's more harsh though). Also, adding weight to the rear might help a bit too. You could relocate the battery to the rear? Also what are your spring rates front and rear (hotchkiss IIRC are pretty stiff, perhaps too stiff for the rear with that much power?). Also are your shocks and struts adjustable? You could play with that as well to get more weight to the rear. Also what hole is your LCARB set at ? IF you are JUST doing drag with the car set it to the lowest hole and you should get better traction (doing this is not that great for handling performance though). Also you could run less pressure in the rear tires and more in the front tires and this might improve it slightly.

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

It definatley wouldn't hurt to get an aftermarket TA!

Did you take off your front sway bar?
What's the condition of your front struts? Rear shocks? Rear springs?

How is your torque arm mount? Is it old? It may have too much slop

Are you LCA adjustable?

What tire pressure?

What has been your best 60ft up to now?
Maybe your track isn't prepped enough?

I have stock LCA, stock TA, 275 MT dr(18psi), stock PHB, (but I have the ability to adjust my TA b/c I have a ford 9" diff). I have LCARBS(lowest hole). I took the front sway bar off, I relocated my battery to the back. My best 60ft is a 1.46.

TPI-Formula350-

I'm still using the stock tq arm mounted to the transmission tail. Lcas are non adjustable founders tubular/poly.
I was running 22psi. In a 255/50/16 MT DR. That was on the street, don't have a local track.
My lcas are mounted in the lowest hole of my UMI lcarbs. My front sway bar is still installed.
I am running hotchkis 1 inch lower springs which are pretty stiff. Also running a pretty stiff kyb strut/shock. I want to switch to adjustable QA1s. Moving my battery to the rear of the car is a good idea.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

I would definitely get a tubular adjustable TQ arm mounted to the x-member, seeing your mods and power. You can also potentially snap the tranny tailshaft with that much power if the TQ arm is hooked onto the tail shaft.

For LCA's I would not go all POLY, I would get one spherical rod end although this is more for handling but I guess could help with straight line traction too.. Poly has no flex but POLY binds. The best middle ground is a rod end of some sort like Spohn's Delsphere joint or UMI's roto joint (in no particular order).

Also, your shocks should be adjustable so you can tune weight transfer better, especially with that much power. Here is a good article explaining some tips: http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories...r-top-10-tips/

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

You are going to have a hard time hooking with that stall and those tires on the street. A torque arm is not going to do much for you, and whether or not is adjustable does not affect traction. Adjustability is only for setting proper pinion angle. The street does not offer anything approaching the traction of a prepped launch pad and hitting the tires as hard as you are at 4400 rpm is not helping.
FWIW I've cut a 1.5 60' in my drag car at the track, that's launching on the footbrake with nitrous. There is no way in hell that would ever hook on the street, even on my 28x10.5 et drags. I have the 275 mt drs for street driving and there is no comparison in traction, part of it is because it's a shorter tire. You might want to look into a taller tire.
How well is your posi working?
You can't improve unless you get some baseline 60' numbers to see how bad your problem really is. Dropping the sway bar and moving the battery will help. Be careful lowering the LCAs too much as this can be too aggressive of an initial hit which will then cause the tires to unload after rebounding upward.

86iroc2try

Good info here...adding weight to rear will help..guys have been 1.20s in 60' with stock torque arm...but street is different...

The more weight on the rear the better the arm works...but you need to go to a track.

Also...its not a 3000 converter if it flashes to 4400. Lol

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

True, but what if he got adjustable rear shocks wouldn't he be able to soften rebound so this doesn't happen?

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

You'd actually want to tighten up rebound to slow the rate that the rear axle is traveling away from the body though I'm not sure how effective that would be. Never really played with it. I have a very mild lca angle on my drag car (G body with stock lca mounting points and lakewood drag shocks) and I just played with air bag pressures which I think helped keep the rear closer to neutral on launch - not squatting but not separating much either. I always felt this gave me a good hit without shocking the tires into the launch pad which can just unload the tires. Almost always had a dead hook. I am by no means a drag suspension guru, just sharing what worked for me.


BTW to the O.P. are you using a trans brake or foot braking it to 4400? BTW if that is on a 700r4 then it's obvious why you have no traction. With that first gear, 3.70 rear gear, 4400 rpm, and short drag radials it must feel like you are driving on ice.

TPI-Formula350-

yeah, 4400 stall is just off the throttle... showed to be that on a dyno as well as my data logs. It was an off the shelf Hughes 3000 stall but I was told if I make more power it would stall higher- found out after installing. Yes its on a 700R4, def feels like i'm on ice!!!

I need an adjustable tq. arm to correct pinion angle after lower the car an inch. I'll also working on some adjustable shocks/struts and moving battery/weight back this winter. The rear is a Brog Warner 9 bolt 370s totally rebuilt 600 miles ago.

I've had the car at drag strips years ago with old combos. I know hooking on the street is nothing like a nice prepped track. Thing is I only get to mess around on the street around me. No, track on Long Island NY, I have to drive through NYC into NJ to get to the closest track now.

Maria8

What everyone said. Add this and you will be amazed if you use it correctly. Get an msd power grid to take power away on the launch and then ramp it back in over time. I make over 1k RWHP and go consistant 1.30-1.33 60 ft on drag radials in a 3700# car. Power grid made all the difference for me. I look forward to next season to keep pecking at it. Good luck.

Wparks

If I lower my car 1" all the way around will I need this ??