Chuck84TA

Hi All-

Well I finally have the time carved out to do this... Putting in my new Moog 5665 rear springs and my Koni yellow rear shocks.

I just received my new racing jack from Summit and bought and 2 sets of 3 ton floor jacks.

I am planning to remove my rear sway bar first so I can get some new fittings on them and free up the space for the extra two jacks I bought to keep the rear axle supported when the Track Bar and shocks are removed. The Chiltons manual says.."Make sure the axle is supported securely on the floor jack and that there is no chance of the axle slipping after the shock absorbers are disconnected.

So here is my first question (Im sure I'll think of another one before the day is over)..

Is there any reason why I shouldn't replace the shocks before removing and replacing the old springs? I figure you need to disconnect the shocks anyway so you can lower the axle low enough to get at the springs, so why not replace the shocks since its disconnected? I know it may seem obvious to some, but since this is my first go at this I want to just be 100% sure that it is ok to do..

After this is done, I just need to wait on the order from TDS for the Rear Sway fittings and end-links.

Chuck

dads old blue 9

just unbolt the shocks and remove them entirly then put the car bacl on the ground place jack under rear end pumpkin rais it as far as you can ,jackstands under the frame rite infront of the controle arms slowly lower the jack till the springs have no pressure on them , do the spring swap then put the top portion of the new shock in its mt then jack upthe rear end till the springs stert to compress . check spring alignment with their mounts when there good jack it up another inch then bolt op the lower shock bolt tighten everything up and your good . when doing the links put one side in lose as posible only thread the nut on 2 turns then do the other side. tighten both sides . and enjoy.

Chuck84TA

Two words that I learned today ... Impact wrench.

There is no way I can get that track bar off or the shock absorber off with a conventional socket .... So now I'm on the hunt for an air compressor.

But I did manage to get the sway bar off...

dads old blue 9

use pb deep creep and a pipe over the breaker bar rockit back and forth more pb just workit I put mine in with basic hand tools.

Chuck84TA

pb deep creep and breaker bar..got it.. gonna try it tomorrow... or borrow someone's air compressor... whichever comes first

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Yeah...I've busted a few bolts in my time. I don't mind if they bust off normally (depending on what it is of course) - because I won't re-use it anyway if it's that rusted. Use plenty of anti-seize when you put it back together, so hopefully it won't be such a struggle the next time.

Chuck84TA

Got the old springs/shocks out...



Man o' man .. those old shocks (black ones) must of been the originals..
I compressed them with my bare hands, but they wouldn't self-extend back!

The Moog 5665 springs went in with little difficulty. A you can see in the picture the original springs (Compared to the Moog) were quite aged.

All in all, things went pretty smoothly... Although I must confess that I "rushed" it a bit by hammering the original panhard bar out and bent it a little

If there is anything I learned about this, is that you need to SLOW DOWN and take YOUR TIME when it comes to this.... Don't try to set a "deadline" to get'er done because that set myself up for a damaged part that will need to be replaced...

So, I ordered from Founders the Adjustable panhard and adjustable LCA's...

Just waiting for:
1) rear sway bar bushings/1LE endlinks from Lon
2) Rear driver side caliper (its leaking)
3) Panhard/LCA's from Founders

Chuck84TA

Here is a pic of the spring and shock on the rear driver side..

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

You'll be AMAZED at how much difference all that stuff makes; the car will be like BRAND SPANKING NEW all over again back there. Next you'll be itching to do the front the same way!!

Personally I find the whole "1LE" thing to be greatly overrated... just go to AutoZone or Summit or wherever (maybe even Lon), and get Energy Suspension sway bar bushings and end links.

Chuck84TA

Probably go with Energy Suspension for the front... I can't wait together this car out on the road !

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Hahahaha, at those original shocks.

1) With new shocks and 5665 springs, you can forget about ever banging on your bump stops. That's good.

2) I'm assuming you installed the Konis with the full soft "0 click" setting.

3) As I mentioned in that big thread of mine, the two biggest differences will be driving on circular off ramps on the highway. The rear end will feel locked solid, while the front end will feel like it's twisting and being torqued all over the place. And anytime you go over a dip in the road, the back will stay level, while the front will bob up and down like a boat in water.

Enjoy!

Chuck84TA

Hi Reid

Yep, set the shocks to "0"...and as soon as the weather improves and I button the rear end up I'll give her a run. Can't wait!

L695speed

Good to see you're at it. You will definitely want to do the front as well. As I said on the other board, I'm running the Koni and Eibach Pro Kit on my 88 GTA and my 84 TA. I loved the 88 on the highway and in the twisties. It was a blast to drive with that setup. I can't wait to get the 84 up and running based on what I see with the 88. And the 84 will be built further than the GTA is along with a stick and more power. It is like driving a gokart. The car responds instantly and is rock solid with practically zero roll in the corners.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

What konis did you use?