syc0path

This is for a 1988 Trans Am 5.0L w/ about 105k miles. Most of the front suspension is original. The car came w/ 15" wheels, but I put (factory) 16" wheels on it many years ago. The car also has A/C. Based on what I've seen, I plan on going w/ the heavy duty springs.

I've been searching here and on RockAuto, Autozone, and YearOne.

My 1st question is whether any1 sells a fully-assembled strut assembly, or "loaded" lower control arms that come with bushings and ball joint already installed? I haven't seen any, so I'm guessing that's a no.

So below is the list of parts that I think I need to buy to do this job. Is there anything else I need, or anything on the list that I don't need?

--strut (the part that looks like a shock absorber)
--springs
--strut mount plate
--coil spring isolater (or does this come w/ the strut plate?)
--A-arm bushings, front and rear
--ball joints
--camber/caster adjustment kit (to make it ezr to align the car)
--sway bar mounts? (have to come apart to remove A-arms, but the current mounts are only a few years old and can probably be reused)

The handling for this car is already way better than the power, so I don't see any need to go nuts buying performance suspension parts. But I'm not going cheap either. So original to slightly upgraded quality is where I'm looking.

syc0path

Any1?

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

I'll do the best I can. The a-arms will not be available with all of the associated parts already attached. To reduce downtime you could purchase some used a-arms (make sure they fit your car) and put on the associated parts and then just bolt on the upgraded a-arm.

If you are going to be rebuilding the suspension you might as well get the steering parts at the same time, so you only have to get one alignment. You will need...

Tie rods (inner and outer)
Tie rod adjuster sleeve
Idler Arm
Center link
End links (if they are shot)

As for the suspension side what you have listed is accurate, but the true question is whether or not you NEED it. If you are wanting the performance then upgrading everything you have listed is recommended. Isolators are sold separately. Also if you are going to be replacing the strut mount you might as well get the all in one caster/camber plates from any of the big name companies. But, if the springs aren't sagging, the strut mount is still moving freely, the strut isn't shot, then you don't really NEED to upgrade them.

syc0path

Thanks for your reply -- it's helpful!

The reason why this all started is that I took the car in for an alignment at a local shop that specializes in vintage/classic/collector cars. The owner put the car up on the rack, and he said that the struts were leaking a little bit. He also said that they were slightly bent inward, but that's not unusual given the age and mileage.

He also found play in the A-arm bushings and ball joints, which again is not unusual. He didn't say anything about the steering components -- although last summer I did find some play in the idler arm and replaced it w/ a Moog part.

So not all of the parts in the suspension need to be replaced, but I think I should do it all while I have it apart. If the steering components have to be replaced in the future, that's really a different job than the suspension. Yes I'll have to get the car aligned again... but on the other hand, I barely put 1000 miles on this car each year. By the time the steering components wear out enough to be replaced, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get another alignment by then anyway.

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

Then that clears things up. It is always better to upgrade with better than to replace with factory specs, unless you are doing a restoration.

In that case I would go with the struts, caster/camber plates, ball joints, a-arm bushings, take a look at the bump stop while you are in there, springs (it will be a set of four), and end links (if rusted and worn, besides they are cheap and have no effect on the alignment).

The sway bar bushings will be just fine.

plum92_camaro

I have a 92 camaro RS with 5.0/5speed and the 16" wheels. Spring of 2012 I upgraded my entire front suspension with the best I could find and replaced all the steering linkage. Its nice to do it all at once cause then it's all new. Even with the low power LO3 I am able to beat many "superior" cars on the autoX and Road course. Last year I did my first large track event where horsepower comes into play cause of the longer straightways that short courses like autoX doesn't have. I ran down and passed a new 5.0, an 05-08 saleen, and a Henessey 5th gen because I was so much faster through the corners. I wasn't as fast on the straighways but I didn't have to slow down as much as them in the corners.

In short I'm saying that your current lack of power is no reason to short change the suspension. I was worth it for me.

syc0path

Do u mean to replace the rear springs as well? I replaced those in 2005 when I did a full restoration of the car. Wouldn't they still be ok?

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

Those would be just fine to reuse. I guess you could go with the Moog and cut a half coil off.

syc0path

I'm getting ready to do this job in the next month or so. Based on what I've read, the bolts that hold the A-arms in have to be beaten out to remove them. It is possible to this w/o destroying them in the process? Where would I get replacement bolts?

plum92_camaro

Its been a while since i've done mine. I don't remember it being much trouble. i think i turned them out. If you have to hammer the bolts leave the nut on the end, it will protect the threads. same applies to the ball joints and tie rods. I planned on new bolts from square one. They are grade 10.9 metric bolts. I think i ordered them from Fastenal. You'll have to search or measure yours for the length.

syc0path

Unfortunately the cold weather hit before I got a chance to do this job last fall, so I'm getting ready to do it this weekend.

While I was looking the car over and getting a feel for what needs to be done, I started thinking about the best way to break the ball joints loose. From what I've read, the A-arm bolts should be driven out 1st to allow the spring to come out. Once that's done, what else is holding the A-arm and strut in the car? I know there's the strut nut under the hood, but is that it?

And if so, is it better to take the entire strut/A-arm assembly out of the car to get better access to the ball joint, or is it better to leave the assembly in the car so it will be more stable as I hammer and pry on the ball joint?

syc0path

Oh yeah, I should also mention that I ended up getting most of the parts from Summit. After taking shipping into account, they had the lowest overall price for the parts I wanted.

syc0path

So I finally did this job over the weekend. Here are my experiences:

1) I did not remove the caliper or rotor

2)I know every1 says to take the A-arm bolts off 1st, but I was concerned about breaking the ball joints loose and it was ezr to do that w/ the force of the spring helping out. So I put a jack under the A-arm and broke the ball joints w/ a pickle fork. When the jack was lowered all the way down, the spring hung up on the perch and still had just a little tension on it. So I reached in w/ a board and popped it loose.

3) I didn't have any trouble at all w/ the A-arm bolts. But I should have paid more attention to where each bolt went (FYI, the longer bolts go toward the front of the car, and the nuts always face the rear of the car). I sprayed the bolts several times w/ Gibbs ( getgibbs.com ) since last fall.

4) I took the A-arms to a frame shop (the same place where I tried to have the car aligned) and they pressed all the old bushings/ball joints out and pressed the new parts in for $60.

5) 3 of the 4 strut bolts came off w/o too much problem. But the 4th was stuck bad. I had a 1/2 drive breaker bar and a pipe (about 2.5' total) and still couldn't break it loose when putting almost all my weight on it. I sprayed it and let it sit for a couple hours. Then I basically sat on the pipe and bounced up and down... until it let go and I fell on my ***! I think I was pretty close to breaking the breaker bar, but I got the bolt.

6) I supported the spindle w/ a bucket while I installed the new struts and strut bushings.

7) I put the A-arms in by using a jack and a hammer to help force/tap them into position. I anti-seized the bolts.

8) I tried putting the springs in, but I couldn't bring the A-arms up to connect the ball joints. I thought about removing the A-arm bolts and installing the ball joint 1st, but I couldn't see how that would give me enough room to get spring in.

9)I used masking tape to hold the rubber spring mount to the top of the spring.

10) I used an inner-type spring compressor and a floor jack to get the ball joints in. I had to use large nuts as spacers becuz the rod of the compressor was too long and was hitting the top of the spring perch.

11) I then realized that put the passenger-side A-arm bolts in the wrong holes. I finally figured out that I could use the spring compressor and a floor jack to hold the bottom of the A-arm, as well as a bottle jack and a punch to keep the mounting points lined up as both bolts were removed and reinstalled. It was a PITA, time-consuming, and probably a little dangerous, and it could have been avoided w/ a little foresight.

Similarly, I removed the brake line clips so I'd have a little more wiggle room. It took me a while to figure out how they went back in.

12) On the advice of a car show on the radio, I let the car sit on the tires overnight so everything can settle in. Tonight I'll finish tightening everything. Then I'll drive the car about 100 miles before I get it aligned.

Overall, I'd say the job went pretty well!

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Good job man! nice work! Feels good to do the work yourself huh?