92GTA

iTrader: (11)

I'm in the final stage of wrapping up all of my suspension, all I have left is to install the Spohn TQ arm. I will then have literally every suspension part Spohn makes for my car (plus parts from other companies) less the pinto rack/pinion & strut mounts (yes I regret going Spohn for the k-member, a-arms, and WonderBar so no comments on that please ). I'm also going to replace all cotter pins with safety wire everywhere.

My question is on being sure everything is dialed in as it should be with road racing/aggressive mountain road driving in mind.

My front camber is now set to -1.5 for my new 17" wheels and Toyo Proxes R888 tires. I didn't want to go any more because I will also be street driving it plus I don't think the stock design upper strut mounts could go anymore, they maxed out perfectly at 1.5.

My car is lowered using Eibach Pro springs and I am using new GM spring isolators. Should my adjustable panhard bar be set with preload and if so, how and how much?

At exactly what angle in relation horizontal to the ground should my tubular rear lower control arms be?

What is the ideal pinion angle I should go for when I install my adjustable TQ arm? I have a built 4L60 and the factory 10-bolt rear axle housing (installed a Zexel-Torsen 3.42 from an '02 Camaro SS).

My new KYB shocks/struts aren't adjustable but my next set will be, I'll probably go with Koni. I also have a new (not rebuilt) quick ratio steering box ready to go in. How can I tell if I need a new rag joint? Also are the Alston boxed sub-frame connectors worth it weight wise to install in addition to my Spohn tubular welded in SFCs? My car is factory t-top and I plan on no roll cage or rear shock tower brace, I want to appear as stock as possible.

Are there any other adjustments anywhere else I should be aware of and checking? I feel like I'm missing allot, seems like ALLOT of parts to just bolt on and everything perfectly compliment each other without tons of adjustments but maybe I'm over thinking it lol.

Thanks!!!! I'm really new at this but my goal is to join SCCA (http://www.calclub.com) and do HPDEs possibly in the next year (still need to get the brakes and engine up to the task) as they have a local track (Button Willow) to me.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Panhard bar is used to center the rearend in the car
My rear control arms are at 2 degs down in the rear.

Stock tq arm settings work fine.

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Thanks!

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

The general consensus with dual subframe connectors is that the first set does 90% of your benefit, while the 2nd set does the remaining 10%. As such, you have to question whether the extra cost, welding, weight, and loss of ground clearance is worth it with the inner set if you already have the outer Spohn SFC. Personally I would say no.

-1.5 camber on 17" wheels with future Konis turned about 1 full turn up will make the car respond right now.

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

That's about what I was figuring, just figured because of the t-tops I would ask.

Thanks for the feedback, sounds like my end result will be precisely what I've been aiming for!

I would about say that the added weight of all the mild steel Spohn components and other parts has cancelled out the weight savings of the k-member and a-arms. Of course I have a bit less unsprung weight with the a-arms and taken a fair bit of weight off the front with the k-member and it's been moved more central and lower to the rest of the car.

I still need to install my new steering box, new idler arm, and get an Astro van steering shaft to replace my rag joint.