kirkbird

I have a 91 formula. I am wanting to improve suspension. My head is spinning after reading reviews. Lol. I was looking at Hotchkis TVS but concerned about SFC's clearing exhaust properly (not a huge deal I know a fabricator) and is there any benifiet to changing my sway bars. They are already the same size (but not hollow) As what the kit comes with. Spohn seems decent and less expensive. Is that the smarter move? Not gonna be a drag car its gonna be a street car and I want it to handle awesome.

Thanks!

NowhereFast

The WS6 36/24 are as good as anything they sell aftermarket. If there is any difference at all, it wouldn't be noticeable on a street car.

kirkbird

Thanks NoWhereFast. Kinda what I was thinking as well. Ill just do bushings and links on sway bars. Save $.

kirkbird

No one else has an opinion on this? Or has experience with exhaust and sfc's?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Go outside and LOOK AT your car. Specifically, LOOK AT the most outboard point of the exhaust, about 8" in front of the cat.

Now imagine a SFC made of 1½" (or so) square tubing running up along inside that sheet-metal junction between the rocker panel and the floor pan, fitting between that bend in the Y-pipe and the pinch weld.

Now imagine the piece that needs to run perpendicular to the drive shaft, from somewhere near the front of the above piece, over to the rearmost part of the front "frame" feature on the floor pan next to the transmission, where the crossmember attaches to. Would have to be about a foot long and go RIGHT DIRECTLY THROUGH THE MIDDLE OF the Y-pipe.

Not too hard to see, that it's going to be REAL TOUGH to make any kind of SFC that will fit all up in that place. Which as luck would have it, is CRITICAL to achieving maximum effectiveness of the SFC system.

It's probably possible somehow, but by no means easy.

plum92_camaro

One thing you can do that isn't discussed enough is research spring rates. I don't believe Hotchkis is worth the money for thirdgens because their springs are only marginally better than stock and like said, your WS6 sway bars are as good or better than theres and they want like $600 for those parts and the only improvement you might see is because the springs would be new, but moog will sell you new springs for $50. That is my Hotchkis rant.

Anyway, SPRING RATES!!! It's difficult to find "the perfect" matched set. I went with Ground control weight jacks. Expensive but worth it. All the pluses of coil overs (choose ride height and spring rate) but better for our cars. I have 850# fronts and 250# rears. I want to go to 1000# fronts cause I race. Unfortunately there isn't one ideal spring rate for everyone, you have to find out what all the rates are for each brand and read what people use their cars for and what they say about ride and performance. i personally would go 800 front and between 150-200 in the rear for a street car. linear/constant rates only.
i would also consider eibach pro kit even though the rears variable/progressive rates.

I recommend koni yellows to everyone but a drag racer. Also expensive but worth ever cent. I'd recommend getting 4thgen rears if you plan to do any racing and will be adjusting them often. Single adjustables are alway a rebound adjustment to control how fast the strut/shock extends.

Also get some CC plates. I would probably buy founders if i bought a set today. Or UMI if i wanted to brand match with other suspension parts.

Get an adjustable pan hard bar with relocation kit, Lower control arms also with relocation kit. A watts link would be best to replace the pan hard but really expensive for a street car.

I bought UMI subframe connectors. Them and BMR seem to be the beefiest and mount in all the right places. UMI's website has some decent pictures to show the fit.

Steering linkage, ball joints, A-arm bushings, replace with Moog. Paint it before install to keep in looking nice.

If you look at torque arms know that shorter plants faster and harder for acceleration and longer help control rear end lift under braking. Konis should help with the rear end lift too.

Hope this helps and that I didn't forget anything. Good luck. Although I believe in what I say I encourage you to do more research and make sure you get whats right for you and your budget.

426 Wedge

Poly bushing the suspension

plum92_camaro

I'm not saying poly is bad but it had some characteristics you should be aware of. It is known to squeak if not properly lubricated and maintained. Also poly on the rear lower control arm can cause a snap return to the rear end while flexing in a HARD corner causing the car to become loose or lose control.

paul_huryk

I have a good amount of experience working on 3rd gen suspensions, here is my 2 cents:


Spohn subframes clear factory routed exhaust

While you have many options for sway bars, OEM is honestly the best. Change all the bar and endlinks to poly.

Hotchkis TVS is overpriced and pretty pedestrian in terms of ultimate performance. You can get yourself into a full suspension setup with koni yellows for the price of the TVS system.

The last and most important item is the wheels and tires one would use. 10 years ago, you had the choice of 6 to 8 performance summer tires in 245-50-16, now its down to 1. So the migration to a 275-40-17 is a smart and ultimately required choice. Just moving up to a 275-40 from a 245-50 is worth 5% better handling with the same tire and no other changes.

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

If you are interested, I have a set of LCAs and adjustable panhard rod that I just removed from me car in favor of the Fays2 watts link.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...s-lca-phr.html

plum92_camaro