Zink57

Hi Guys
I just changed out my worn front lower ball joints and when I buttoned it up the 87 IROC appears to be riding between 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch higher.

QUESTION- Do any of you guys know what height in inches measured from the ground to the inner fender lip opening (center line of wheel) for a STOCK IROC Z??? Mine measures 27 1/2 inches... I believe it was 26 3/4 inches before.. my ball joints were shot though.

I am more interested in stock height comparison when these cars were new with stock components...

thanks...

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

No measurements handy; if I were to "measure" ANYTHING about ride height, it wouldn't involve TRIM like fenders anyway, instead I would "measure" some part of the actual CAR, like the "frame; but FWIW...

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/hist...od-1986-a.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/hist...-back-day.html

You can compare by eye at least, which is pretty near about equal to the lack of precision you would consign yourself to by "measuring" to the sheet metal.

Zink57

Thanks sodakingdom.
Yes I agree with you that taking measurements from the sheet metal isn't the most accurate in terms of actual ride height.. but for for me part it's really all about the cosmetic looks and not really about functionality since I don't really race it on a road course. It does appear to be raised about 1/2 inch over what it was before...but that's okay with me since it's "livable". The parts that I replaced were the front struts (KYB-G92), strut bearings, B-Joints, Outer tie rods, center link, and idler arm. The steering box was already upgraded to a tight ratio component as well as the rear shocks and wheel bearings. It rides/handles very tight and I am happy with the new manners.

I also believe that some weight savings up front-- sans AIR Conditioning and condenser and plumbing may have shaved some weight up front as well...but it appears that the ball joints that were replaced last have raised it a bit. I read on this board that the KYB strutts may have contributed to this as well...but again it appeared okay BEFORE i did the B-Joints yesterday... The Ball Joints I used were MoveTechs from RockAuto.

Edit.. ended up getting the car aligned today. these pics are the final result It appeared to lower about 1/4 inch after the alignment.. i'll live with it.

Zink57

I took one of the old ball joints apart-- removed the rubber grease housing and cleaned it off and inspected the unit... with most of the grease cleaned out of the joint..I notice that it only moves up/down about 1 mm in the housing. The housing has absolutely zero stress cracks or warp age. The ball itself appears smooth and moves without any binding or indication of wear--aside from the clearance incurred by removing the grease.... I expected to see metal particles or shavings in the grease that I cleaned out. The reason I am writing this is because the alignment shop i took it too that stated that the alignment on the car was "UNDOABLE" due to the condition of the joint.. now I am suspecting BS on this claim. My step dad who is a mechanic also thought that the shop was only looking to make $$$ on unneeded repairs. A certain amount of lateral movement is allowable and does not indicate that the thing is going to granade when going over a bump. Step dad said they were full of sh@t.

redneckjoe

unless your subframe is damaged,...i call BS too. its hard to find a good, experienced, honest, alignment guy these days for some reason. maybe ask some guys in your area for a recommendation?

Zink57

Yeah ...that is what I thought..

Coincidently when I returned on Monday to the shop that wanted to charge $370 for the B-Joint repair... the manager walks up and tells me that his day is FULL and that he can't squeeze me into the schedule. I was there at 10 am. YES there were other cars/trucks in the stalls but its amazing to turn customers away. Now I am wondering if I got turned away because i didn't TAKE THE BAIT and ante up close to 4 bills for the b-joints as I did them myself. LOL..... (I think most of you guys know the answer to that!). To be honest.. with the new B-Joints (MOVETECH).. their isn't really a dramatic change in ride quality/steering feel... If the joints were worn and "ready to granade" I WOULD EXPECT MORE OF AN IMPACT WITH BRAND NEW ONES RIGHT???????? Am I missing some logic? (Another big hint that almost never fails--- when the manager walked over to tell me that the alignment WAS NOT DOABLE and that I needed B-JOINTS.. he looked away and avoided eye contact. More than not when someone does that they are LYING SACKS OF CRAP! Works every time...