weird results with the -1.75" springs
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI L98
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" with 4.11
weird results with the -1.75" springs
Parts installed: Dropzone -1.75" springs, Founders LCARB, and adj. pan-hard..... Measuring to the fender lip (center of wheel) the car dropped 1.75" on front, and the rear raised .25"??
Other Variables:
C6 18" wheels...Moser 9"... Lakewood LCA's, Drag shocks, 90/10 Drag struts.... Spohn SFC's.. Hotchkis Strut tower brace...
I'm going to install Founders Caster/camber plate for some extra strut travel, and shave the front bump stops a bit...
My question is; What is causing the rear to be so high? IS the lower front lifting the rear because the chassis is stiffer with the SBC's? are the LCA relocation brackets and new panhard lifting the back? Do I need to adjust PHB with the sunspension loaded? Do the springs need to settle in? I don't mind the stance too much but, it looks kinda jacked up in back.
front is 25.75" Rear is 27.75"
Other Variables:
C6 18" wheels...Moser 9"... Lakewood LCA's, Drag shocks, 90/10 Drag struts.... Spohn SFC's.. Hotchkis Strut tower brace...
I'm going to install Founders Caster/camber plate for some extra strut travel, and shave the front bump stops a bit...
My question is; What is causing the rear to be so high? IS the lower front lifting the rear because the chassis is stiffer with the SBC's? are the LCA relocation brackets and new panhard lifting the back? Do I need to adjust PHB with the sunspension loaded? Do the springs need to settle in? I don't mind the stance too much but, it looks kinda jacked up in back.
front is 25.75" Rear is 27.75"
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Re: weird results with the -1.75" springs
Yup, happens all the time.
It's not like you buy this box of stuff that says "lower", open it up and pour it out on your car, and the whole car just jumps down x amount closer to the pavement than wherever it was before. People get that fantasy all the time but it just doesn't work like that.
Gotta remember, "lower" is a COMPARATIVE word. In order for it to have meaning, the "new" state after installation (aka "lowered") is to be COMPARED TO some prior state. In the case of "lowering" springs, that prior state they compare themselves to, is NEW STOCK. Your car, being almost an ANTIQUE legally, cannot realistically be considered "new" "stock".
So what happened was, you took out old wore-out sagging used-up stock GARBAGE springs, of which the rears had ALREADY sagged 2" compared to NEW STOCK; so when you put in the supposed "lowering" ones, which are only 1¾" "lower" than NEW STOCK, the rear came UP ¼".
Make sure the springs are installed correctly, not upside-down, as their ends may not settle into their proper place if you did that. You can try removing the isolators, if they're still in there. Otherwise you'll probably need to cut the rears if you want it to sit closer to the ground.
It's not like you buy this box of stuff that says "lower", open it up and pour it out on your car, and the whole car just jumps down x amount closer to the pavement than wherever it was before. People get that fantasy all the time but it just doesn't work like that.
Gotta remember, "lower" is a COMPARATIVE word. In order for it to have meaning, the "new" state after installation (aka "lowered") is to be COMPARED TO some prior state. In the case of "lowering" springs, that prior state they compare themselves to, is NEW STOCK. Your car, being almost an ANTIQUE legally, cannot realistically be considered "new" "stock".
So what happened was, you took out old wore-out sagging used-up stock GARBAGE springs, of which the rears had ALREADY sagged 2" compared to NEW STOCK; so when you put in the supposed "lowering" ones, which are only 1¾" "lower" than NEW STOCK, the rear came UP ¼".
Make sure the springs are installed correctly, not upside-down, as their ends may not settle into their proper place if you did that. You can try removing the isolators, if they're still in there. Otherwise you'll probably need to cut the rears if you want it to sit closer to the ground.
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