johndinu

Anyone installed these?
http://www.detroitspeed.com/1982-199...onnectors.html
Looked at these and I am very impressed with them. Wondering how much the installation would cost.
thanks

UNCLE TOM

iTrader: (1)

subscribed ............

rgauder

iTrader: (1)

I've got them, just haven't installed them yet.

I really like them, but you must cut your floor to install them.

SlickTrackGod

I find it interesting DT is selling progressive rate rear springs. Ive been preaching this for years on 3rd gens to reduce the jacking effect these cars suffer from with the factory Tq arm length.

http://www.detroitspeed.com/1982-199...l-springs.html

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Pretty thin metal. .083 thats between 5/64 and 3/32. really thin..... and it looks like a lot of work to install. and they arnt cheap.... but.... you decide...

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Huh... that's big $... Not sure what to make of them. I don't really have an issue with the thinner metal, the cross section/shape of the part is a bigger deal than how thick the metal is, save weight/increase rigidity.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

I'm sure they used statics and strengths to help with design, so I'm sure when its all together, its pretty rigid. I still would like to see thicker material used. your talking about a couple pounds. nothing I'd worry about. It looks like a lot of work to install... be nice to see it layed out to see how it would look installed.

SlickTrackGod

It is the best place on the car to add weight. Low and centered between the wheelbase. I will say that no way in hell with these stiffen the chassis enough. They are relying on a person to also cage the car for these to have any benefit.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I have a outer subframe connector from a old school company that is very similar to these and holy cow they did stiffen the car up a lot. What I really like about mine is they are tied into the front rear lower control arm mount.

I'm sure everyone knows that (the owners of DSE) Kyle and Stacey were GM suspension/chassis engineers and (still) racers before starting this company. Super nice people to talk to.
I'm sure they have a lot to learn about the 3rdgen chassis but they are out there with their test car a lot and have even already mildly crashed it.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

They say the crash was a stuck accelerator pedal.
The #950/#220 2" drop springs are probably the best out there - you pay for it, too. Their rear coilover goes up to #275 and are paired with a 1" rear sway bar (26mm). That is just way too tight. I called and asked them, the sales rep said he'd take my questions to R&D, they actually responded by email, but said they wouldn't divulge. He did say they started R&D in 2013, FWIW.
I'm tempted on the JRi struts and strut mounts - they are killer. They also said that JRi valves them to their specs ('Detroit tuned') and then ships to them. I guess that those that can afford them, can afford custom valving, too.

UMI Sales

Here's a photo of our 3rd Gen SFC'S. They are weld in and tie into the Rear arm.
UMI products are made in Philipsburg,Pennsylvania out of USA material.We design,test,and race all of our products.

If you need pricing just give us a call.
Craig

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I thought that most of the exterior sheet metal panels on these cars are 18 gauge. 0.083" thick metal is twice that. Doesn't sound very strong. I would think these would demand that you welded the entire length of the rocker pinch area or install a cage to give much chassis strength. These are probably on pad with the stock riveted in place sfc that the convertible came with. They help sure, but not as much as they could. As Dean said, who cares if they add a few pounds to the lowest portion of the car??

wracks89

UMI baby!

SlickTrackGod

The only thing I will reiterate (same thing I have said many times on here over a decade now) is to buy outer perimeter style SFC's - get them bare finish (not powdercoated) and stitch weld them to the rocker panels along the span with about a 1-1 1/4" weld length every 6" along the length. You buy powder coated and you will just have to grind the PC off them to do this properly. Any SFC is pretty much leaving strength on the table if this is not done. THis is what ties in the SFC to the chasis and helps prevent chassis twist in lateral rigidity.

I have posted several times in past posts about how the sfc's tie into the lateral and vertical shear panels of the vehicle (ie- the firewall AND the rear seat panel) You utilizes the entire unibody chassis as it's engineered safety structure and you build on that by welding the span in increments. When just attached to front and rear, it is like a safety cage inside a car moving about on the body. Each are not as strong as they are tied into eachother.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

most of the body work is 20 gauge and thinner. 18 is pretty heavy for most car bodies

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

I cant find the ones I have anymore. BMR but 14 years ago prob. They were zinc coated or something, looked like a grade 8 bolt color, and tied into the rlca bracket, up the pinch to the fender. they also y'd and got welded to the cross member area. Heh, another TPIS purchase... wonder if they sell em still...

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Exactly. That's why I build my own.


http://www.vettemod.com/forum/imageh...63ef53dc1a.jpg

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/imageh...63ef6a20d6.jpg

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/imageh...52b7cb81a9.jpg

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/imageh...0f632881f1.jpg

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I thought the doors and rear query panels and roof were 18. I had measured the front fenders and multiple pieces of metal in the front at 20 but I thought the other areas were thicker.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

no 18 anywhere on the external body