Bump steer kit required for 1" lowering? What's your results?
#1
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,906
Received 176 Likes
on
135 Posts
Car: 90 Formula / T-tops
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: MD8
Bump steer kit required for 1" lowering? What's your results?
Are you guys finding a bump steer kit is needed when lowering your car 1" using lowering coil springs?
#2
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,906
Received 176 Likes
on
135 Posts
Car: 90 Formula / T-tops
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: MD8
Re: Bump steer kit required for 1" lowering? What's your results?
Found some old threads where people are discussing this issue.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ll-center.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ints-good.html
Clearance concerns with extended ball joints
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...clearance.html
First hand account:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ml#post5154883
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ll-center.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ints-good.html
Clearance concerns with extended ball joints
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...clearance.html
First hand account:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ml#post5154883
Last edited by LiquidBlue; 10-24-2015 at 08:54 AM.
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 887
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
9 Posts
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44
Re: Bump steer kit required for 1" lowering? What's your results?
Lowering springs doesn't change the relationship between the A-arm arc and the steering linkage arc, so the bumpsteer should not be any worse than factory. Although "normal range" for you is now more into the "stock compression" range of travel, so maybe. Also, the lowering springs should be stiffer to keep from bottoming out, and should reduce the normal suspension travel, which another factor towards "no worse than stock".
Since you are changing springs, this is a good opportunity to measure your own setup: With suspension reassembled sans spring, move the knuckle from full droop to hitting the bump stock, record the height versus the angle at the wheel mounting surface, and you will have your bump steer curve.
If you had a bumpsteer kit, you would then make adjustment and remeasure to find the best curve.
Good for theory, but sorry I don't have a definitive answer.
Since you are changing springs, this is a good opportunity to measure your own setup: With suspension reassembled sans spring, move the knuckle from full droop to hitting the bump stock, record the height versus the angle at the wheel mounting surface, and you will have your bump steer curve.
If you had a bumpsteer kit, you would then make adjustment and remeasure to find the best curve.
Good for theory, but sorry I don't have a definitive answer.
#4
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,906
Received 176 Likes
on
135 Posts
Car: 90 Formula / T-tops
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: MD8
Re: Bump steer kit required for 1" lowering? What's your results?
Thanks for your input MoJoe. Reading your response, and some of the other threads that I just listed make me realize how much I don't know! Got lots o' learn'in to do!
#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 887
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
9 Posts
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44
Re: Bump steer kit required for 1" lowering? What's your results?
Additionally, you can measure the curves with the steering to left, center and right to get the complete picture.
#6
Re: Bump steer kit required for 1" lowering? What's your results?
#7
Re: Bump steer kit required for 1" lowering? What's your results?
Lowering springs doesn't change the relationship between the A-arm arc and the steering linkage arc, so the bumpsteer should not be any worse than factory. Although "normal range" for you is now more into the "stock compression" range of travel, so maybe. Also, the lowering springs should be stiffer to keep from bottoming out, and should reduce the normal suspension travel, which another factor towards "no worse than stock".
Since you are changing springs, this is a good opportunity to measure your own setup: With suspension reassembled sans spring, move the knuckle from full droop to hitting the bump stock, record the height versus the angle at the wheel mounting surface, and you will have your bump steer curve.
If you had a bumpsteer kit, you would then make adjustment and remeasure to find the best curve.
Good for theory, but sorry I don't have a definitive answer.
Since you are changing springs, this is a good opportunity to measure your own setup: With suspension reassembled sans spring, move the knuckle from full droop to hitting the bump stock, record the height versus the angle at the wheel mounting surface, and you will have your bump steer curve.
If you had a bumpsteer kit, you would then make adjustment and remeasure to find the best curve.
Good for theory, but sorry I don't have a definitive answer.
Dean
ps- in other words for a quick example- both start at 4* caster, at 2" bump compresson travel the OEM strut angle coukld go aprox 6*. the lowered strut angle could go to 9* caster . The steeper angle tilts the outer tie rod back in relation to the inner tie rod in lateral form. This tilting will shorten the length in geometric form of an arching circle.
Last edited by SlickTrackGod; 10-27-2015 at 12:50 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Linson
Auto Detailing and Appearance
12
10-01-2015 09:50 PM