hyde0970

Morning all!

I just pulled the motor and trans from my 87 Iroc to start a LS1-4L60E/12 bolt rear swap. While I have everything apart (and with winter coming) I thought this would be a good time to run through and upgrade my suspension and beef up the chassis as well. I need a little help picking out the right upgrades. I do NOT want to lower the car at all, I understand this limits the extent to which I can upgrade the car. This is my daily driver in the summer and with the roads in Michigan, I just don't want to deal with that.

The car is completely stock right now and this is obviously going to be a very long project but I would rather do it all now rather than in phases.

Any help is much appreciated!

UMI Sales

Here is the products we manufacture for your 3rd Gen:

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...=index&cPath=6

The best thing for you to do would be give me a call so we can discuss what you are trying to achieve with your car and the budget you have to achieve this.

I can put together a custom package for you to achieve what you are shooting for.

You can reach me direct at 814-343-6315 Extension 101.

Thanks, Craig

WTR388

#1: Subframe connectors.

GCrites80s

Yes, you don't want snap loose. If you don't have SFCs or a cage you will be snap loose. I don't think you can even dial that out with other parts.

hyde0970

I am getting ready to install SFCs in the next week or so. Doing research on shocks, springs, LCA etc as well. Biggest problem I am running into is not wanting to lower the car. I wonder though, how much will the LS1 raise the front end of my car?

I would consider "lowering" if it put me back to the stock height after I swap engines

GCrites80s

I'd say not much. An LS1 isn't that much lighter really. 40 lbs? There's a lot of material in those heads.

edit: oh, you're running an automatic. A LS1/T56 pair isn't much lighter than a 350/700R4. The LS1 manual flywheel is heavy. You're probably down about 100 lbs.

UMI Sales

I would agree that you won't see much of a stance difference with what you are doing

SbFormula

SbFormula

If you lower, go poly bushing all around, modify the torque arm to have it hooked on frame instead of tail shaft of tranny and go tubular you will see a great difference in handling and hooking. However, your ride will feel rough, noisy and every bit of road imperfection will be felt.
Best of luck

Speedfreak391

iTrader: (1)

The front of your car will be about 1" higher with the LS in it. Just remove the isolator son th front springs Rather than buying lowering springs. When you have the springs out find some heater hose or fuel injection hose that will fit over the first coil of the springs top and bottom. Your car will sit about a 1/4" from stock ride height.
I'm in Michigan to and the roads are pretty rough but with the right parts you should be good to go. If you have any questions feel free to pm me any time.

hyde0970

The roads here in Genesee County/Oakland County are terrible so I really don't want to get too crazy with the suspension. Beef it up and tighten the steering without feeling like im on rumble strips all day. I have read on here to get moog springs if I need new, what about shocks? Koni seems to be thrown around a lot, but how good with stock springs?


Here is a question about the subframes. I never read anything about needing to do this, but my buddy has a 79 TA and he told me when he added subframes he had to switch all the bushings in the body mounts so that they were solid. Is this a thing for third gens?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

not true, the stock front insulated is barely 1/4" thick and removing it will not change the height of the car at all.
use cut springs, lowering springs or some kind of adjustable setup like weight jacks or something to get the car at the right height.


as for upgrades, best shocks and tires you can afford, then fix or replace and stock steering parts that are old and wore out first.


after that, then start looking into sfc's and the rest of the stuff.
don't use poly everywhere, its one of the worst bushing materials, you will be happier with stock replacement bushings, or if you don't mind noise, go with delrin lined pieces or rod ends.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

These cars don't have body mounts like the 2nd Gen.
koni yellows are probably the best bang for your buck shock you can grlet, another good choice are bilstuen hd shocks

hyde0970

I just rebuilt the steering components so I am good there

I have been looking a little bit further into it and I am looking at the following

Nitto NT555 tires, 285 40 18 rear and 255 45 18 front (C6 Z06 wheels)
Koni Shocks, front and rear
Moog Springs, front and rear
Subframe
Kmember/Tubular A Arms, the UNI one for LSX conversion
Spherical Caster Plate
Strut Tower Brace

Possibly a Torque Arm, not sure if the UNI one that will work with the 4L60E

Going to upgrade to some better brakes with a Bigbrakeupgrade kit too(eventually)

Thoughts or other recommendations?

Is it worth installing a new wonderbar? What about panhard bars if I am not lowering at all?

lt1z350

iTrader: (2)

I am doing a lot of what your listing right now just did all paracing front end and torque arm. Did 14 and 14.5 ctsv/camaro ss rotors 4 piston calipers. I did coil over kit up front and the heavy plates up top to help support it along with a custom strut tower bar to help support the new weight in towers. I haven't decided on shocks for rear yet or springs in rear. Thinking 1 inch lower since they also help stiffen the ride and a good mono tube gas shock of some kind. All the rear suspension is founders stuff it is a lot cheaper then anyone and very nice stuff. Lower arms that are adjustable lca brackets adjustable panhard rod and the panhard relocation kit. Spent less on all rear stuff together then some want for just lower arms that are adjustable. I have lots of pics of stuff and my setup if need anything. I'm not going ls mine is turbo l98. Just pm if want any or have questions on what I have done so far.