mike0brien

I am looking to replace my front and rear control arms w/ panhard bar. I am not looking to lower the car (live in new jersey, roads are crap and speed humps every where, I scrape my bumpers as it is). Not looking to do any sort of high end performance as this is my daily driver.


So far I was thinking of going with the UMI front control arms (these have to go first as my current arms are the original ones and the ball joints are getting loose) Only simple requirement is I want the ball joint and bushings to have zerk fittings so I can grease them.


Now looking around for rear control arms and panhard bar... I wanted to get adjustable but if I am not lowering it do I really need it? If so which ones should I go with? some are double adjustable, some single, some have that roto-joint, some are just poly bushings.

I don't see much of a point to double adjustable, and unless I'm doing a lot of SCCA races or something do I need something like those roto-joints?


In theory as long as my rear axle isn't bent or something wrong with my chassis the rear alignment should be fine without adjustments, so my main requirement is the same as the fronts, I want to be able to grease the bushings.


All opinions appreciated, thanks

obeymybird

iTrader: (4)

This is the one I have http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=114 I really like it but im lowered. I have there a-arms also they are super nice just need three guys to help with the spring install.

You shouldn't need adjustable anything or roto-joints

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

What the cars purpose?

mike0brien

Car's purpose is daily driver. maybe some scca races once in awhile but not it's purpose.

UMI Sales

All of our A-arms have grease fittings and will save you about 5lb compared to your factory arms, not to mention they are much stronger than factory and can accommodate a larger tire if you ever need to head in that direction.

I can't really answer the question about whether or not you need adjustable rear components. If you ever plan to lower or run larger tires you may need to adjust one or both.

If you ever need to center the rear because of larger tires or lowering this is done with the control arm and panhard bar being adjustable.

Roto-joints are a substitute for a rod end application, They give you 28 Deg. of rotation for bind free suspension like the rod end but they have 2 delrin races in them that give you a much better ride compared to rod-ends.

If you are just streeting the car Poly bushing will work great providing the best ride. As long as they are installed properly and not over tightened they will work perfect for a street car.

If you need any info or pricing please feel free to give us a call here at the shop.

Craig

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Get the Roto joints on both ends. They ride better than rod ends and honestly, I think they ride better than poly. Poly puts pressure on itself. Roto rotates. You wouldn't think those delrin surrounds on the roto joints would soften the bumps that much, but they do.

I noticed ZERO reduction in ride quality when I did my LCA and PHB. The roto joints on both sides also have the bonus of not needing to be greased. (Delrin is a self-lubricating product that stands up to humidity very well.)

mike0brien

I see how the roto-joints have a wider range of motion, and I am sure due to the that road forces and such are absorbed better, but the difference in price is about double. Unfortunately being a student with bills I can't drop 1500 on my suspension, I can barely drop the 800. (Actually I can't I have to save for a bit :/)

After some more reading and some of your inputs I have found unless I planned to lower the car adjustable rear components aren't really needed, so since I don't plan on lowering it I plan on going with non-adjustable. One less potential moving part.

Necron

iTrader: (1)

I don't see much info on what year/options. What have you already done? I'm setting my car up for auto-x next year and I'm not even putting money into front control arms yet.

It sounds like you just want a better handling street car with maybe some auto-x once in a while.

-Check Steering/bushing components these cars are old.
-Tires! A good set of tires will do amazing things.
-Shocks will do more then any other suspension upgrade.
-How big is your front sway bar? Get a stock front 36mm on there to help with body roll(Add wonder bar as well).

Just some food for thought.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

I understand cost is an issue. I did the rear shocks first and waited about 9 months before doing the front struts simply due to cost. I would rather see you get the roto joints for the back and keep the stock front A-arms. I went with Global West Del-A-Lum in the front. About $200 for the Del-A-Lum.

But before touching any of the above, I would STRONGLY urge you to buy the best struts and shocks you can afford. I've done just about everything suspension wise there is to do. And struts and shocks are about 80% of the improvement. The other items combined are the other 20%.

plum92_camaro

I second what Reid says. I also have the GW Del-a-lums. If moneys not an option, just send a check to UMI for every part in there catalog and you'll be set, that have great products. I have a number of their parts (including roto-joints) in my car, and if I ever do make the move to tubular K-member and a-arms, right now I would buy theirs. But if your on a budget like most of us, there are better ways to spend money than on tubular a-arms.

A lot of autoX/RR guys say the only advantage to tubular k-member and a-arms is weight. Stock is VERY strong. I'd replace the ball joints with either some moogs or some extended ball joints (search those if you aren't familiar with them), and replace the a-arm bushings.

Rear suspension, either use rubber bushings or the UMI roto-joints. Poly can have ill effects (like snap oversteer) in autoX/RR. Rod ends can be to harsh/noisy on a daily driver. Remember, the rubber in your car is 24+ years old, any thing will be an improvement.

They say the best order to modify a car for autoX/RR is as follows
0.Make necessary repairs so that you and your car are safe on the course ( I added this one just to make sure all bases are covered)
1.Driver Mod, just get out there and learn to how to take corners fast. Nobody is ever as fast as they think when they are starting out. Everyone is fast down the straightways, the corners is where the most time is gained or lost.
2. Tires (and wheels), wider, and stickier are HUGE improvements. Ideally its best to move up to a 17x9 with 275/40r17's. Lots of tire choices there at affordable prices. ctwmotorsports makes direct bolt on 17x9 wheels for thirdgens.
3.Shocks and Struts, Koni yellows are the popular choice, Bilstiens make a great second choice if you don't want to get into adjusting/tuning them. This is also a great time to install some caster/camber plates.
4. Springs, linear/constant rates are ideal.

There is many more things I could put on the list, but that is plenty to get you started.