Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
02-23-2016, 11:15 PM
#51
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NC johnston co
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi stock
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I brought this kit last thought it was a great deal for $115 and moog parts also! Link http://www.ebay.com/itm/181898194822
Last edited by alpine247; 02-23-2016 at 11:21 PM.
02-23-2016, 11:23 PM
#52
Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: UT
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: l98 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 373s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Oh man, that is a good deal. You can verify they were good parts?
02-23-2016, 11:36 PM
#53
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NC johnston co
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi stock
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Same part numbers as moog.The parts looks solid.I've installed the ball joints still have to get around to installed the rest.Did ls1 brake conversion so it was a great time to replace the ***** joints.But little did I know the ball joint press out a hurting on me lol.I was so sore the next morning feel liked I've been hit by a truck.But so far I'm very happy with this kit!
02-24-2016, 08:57 AM
#54
Member
03-03-2016, 04:59 PM
#56
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Washington-state
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
No, not quite just yet. I got the LCAs and BJs holding eachother together with the struts in place. The sway bar I have bolted to the frame but I'm waiting to sinch down the end links when the LCAs are more level and less angled. Once it's on the ground it'll be easy so I don't ruin the poly on the end links when tightening them.
As of now, I removed all the loose rust crusty stuff from the wheel wells. I sprayed them down with rubberized primer. After that I sprayed some truck bed liner on top of that to get more texture to the wheel wells. Once it dries again I'll spray the final coat of rubberized sound deadening undercoat and put everything back together. Hopefully I'll get my pics up to show you guys.
03-03-2016, 10:13 PM
#57
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Washington-state
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Alright..where was I? I think from where I last left off was installing the LCAs. Once I installed the lower control arms, I then proceeded to changing the struts out from the steering knuckle. This was simple enough with the ball joint holding onto the knuckle and a floor jack suspending the LCA from full releasing.
One thing to note is the the dust cover on the ball joint AND orientation. I like the material the cover is made out of as it seems metal reinforced as well as the MOOG trademark display. It was a little difficult coaxing the dust cover on but VERY important to fully seat it on the upper lip of the ball joint.
Then after that, I proceeded to take advantage of the rubber brake lines being easily accessible and to change. I've been fighting a terrible front brake grab problem and hope to have this fixed. The flare nut ofcourse is ALWAYS difficult to not collapse accidentally when trying to loosen it from the steel lines--but not too big a deal with enough PB blaster and heat to break it loose.
After messing with the brakes for a few days and finishing up bleeding, I then sprayed more undercoating--noting the truck bed liner spray from mentioning it earlier. Hopefully this weekend I'll get around to spraying my final application of sound deadening spray to be finished with the front suspension. For the front wheel wells I did two coats each of rubberized primer, truck bed liner, and then finally I'll do the sound deadening spray in similar fassion.
One thing to note is the the dust cover on the ball joint AND orientation. I like the material the cover is made out of as it seems metal reinforced as well as the MOOG trademark display. It was a little difficult coaxing the dust cover on but VERY important to fully seat it on the upper lip of the ball joint.
Then after that, I proceeded to take advantage of the rubber brake lines being easily accessible and to change. I've been fighting a terrible front brake grab problem and hope to have this fixed. The flare nut ofcourse is ALWAYS difficult to not collapse accidentally when trying to loosen it from the steel lines--but not too big a deal with enough PB blaster and heat to break it loose.
After messing with the brakes for a few days and finishing up bleeding, I then sprayed more undercoating--noting the truck bed liner spray from mentioning it earlier. Hopefully this weekend I'll get around to spraying my final application of sound deadening spray to be finished with the front suspension. For the front wheel wells I did two coats each of rubberized primer, truck bed liner, and then finally I'll do the sound deadening spray in similar fassion.
03-13-2016, 09:37 PM
#58
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Washington-state
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
For those of you following along, next up are my rear LCA's and installing the Energy Suspension bushings.
In the first picture, you'll see that I took the LCA and a drift around the edges of the bushing. Look closely and you'll see I drew the bush-shell away from the edge of the LCA. I also did the same on the inner part as well. This was almost too simple, but next I simply smacked it across a wooden 4x4 and out it popped!
After I cleaned up the LCA (wire-wheeled it and spray painted it), I then put the shell of the Energy Suspension bush in an arbor press. I liked the arbor press because it's a little bit easier to control everything. You'll notice in the third picture I didn't have the socket in the arm until I lined up the shell to enter straight. One thing that is VERY key is relieving the stress in the LCA. What I mean by this, is that the LCA diameters would bind up preventing further pressing regardless of how many support-sockets I would put in between there. So I then had to take a drift and "pop" the ears apart. This was helpful in seating shell completely. The shell seemed to fit much tighter once fully seated in comparison of how easy it was to take out the original bush. Hopefully this translates into a very tight fitting shell that will never come loose.
In the first picture, you'll see that I took the LCA and a drift around the edges of the bushing. Look closely and you'll see I drew the bush-shell away from the edge of the LCA. I also did the same on the inner part as well. This was almost too simple, but next I simply smacked it across a wooden 4x4 and out it popped!
After I cleaned up the LCA (wire-wheeled it and spray painted it), I then put the shell of the Energy Suspension bush in an arbor press. I liked the arbor press because it's a little bit easier to control everything. You'll notice in the third picture I didn't have the socket in the arm until I lined up the shell to enter straight. One thing that is VERY key is relieving the stress in the LCA. What I mean by this, is that the LCA diameters would bind up preventing further pressing regardless of how many support-sockets I would put in between there. So I then had to take a drift and "pop" the ears apart. This was helpful in seating shell completely. The shell seemed to fit much tighter once fully seated in comparison of how easy it was to take out the original bush. Hopefully this translates into a very tight fitting shell that will never come loose.
03-13-2016, 10:10 PM
#59
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Washington-state
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Assembly of the Energy Suspension bushings are very easy and of course straight forward. In the first picture you'll see the installation sequence of the "thrust" poly bush with a heavy dose of silicon grease all over it.
Note in the second picture of how when I assembled the LCA in it's pocket the 1/8th inch gap between the bush and shell. I thought this was very peculiar since there's a significant gap and could allow lateral shifting. None the less, I was still able to tighten the inner dowel pin to the frame. One thing I could not find is any specific literature on the orientation of the LCA in respect to the outside of the vehicle. I figured it would be best to have the thrust bush in the inner part and I was consistent on both sides.
Note in the second picture of how when I assembled the LCA in it's pocket the 1/8th inch gap between the bush and shell. I thought this was very peculiar since there's a significant gap and could allow lateral shifting. None the less, I was still able to tighten the inner dowel pin to the frame. One thing I could not find is any specific literature on the orientation of the LCA in respect to the outside of the vehicle. I figured it would be best to have the thrust bush in the inner part and I was consistent on both sides.
03-13-2016, 10:17 PM
#60
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Washington-state
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
The last bushing of this project was the panhard bar. Now taking out the original bushings were fairly simple. Just choose your method of madness and then I cleaned up all the rust and sprayed it black as well.
These bushings were pretty neat. I lubed them up and pushed them in by hand to the panhard as they don't come with shells--very snug fit tho. A vise works great in installing both polys and dowel in the middle. Installation back into the car was very rudimentary.
These bushings were pretty neat. I lubed them up and pushed them in by hand to the panhard as they don't come with shells--very snug fit tho. A vise works great in installing both polys and dowel in the middle. Installation back into the car was very rudimentary.
03-13-2016, 10:28 PM
#61
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Washington-state
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
The last thing I did for today was change out the rear shocks. This does involve removing some trim on the inside to gain access to the upper studs of the shocks. Just keep in mind to be careful when removing panels. I my case, I had to remove both wheel-well trims and pull back the carpet gently. You'll see this yellowish foam covering the upper part of the shock. A nice piece of mind for protecting the carpet. I removed the upper studs on the shocks first before I went below to the rear-end mounting of the shock. This was what I thought was easiest. Then of course once I got the old shock out, I immediately installed the new one.
I do however need to take a moment and bag on MONROE shocks/struts. This brand seems to compete for WORST suspension parts. In the third picture you'll see the full extended shock. Once I collapsed all of the shocks throw as seen in the fourth picture, the shock absolutely refused to rebound at all. Utter...garbage.
Hopefully sometime this week I'll be able to take out the thirdgen and test drive it! I'm excited to notice any results!! Also as a side note, I did expect to get another pair of sway bar end links for the rear, but I'll have to order another pair. Eventually I'll get around to it..it just wasn't as big as a priority as the front end links.
Stay tuned for my results!!
I do however need to take a moment and bag on MONROE shocks/struts. This brand seems to compete for WORST suspension parts. In the third picture you'll see the full extended shock. Once I collapsed all of the shocks throw as seen in the fourth picture, the shock absolutely refused to rebound at all. Utter...garbage.
Hopefully sometime this week I'll be able to take out the thirdgen and test drive it! I'm excited to notice any results!! Also as a side note, I did expect to get another pair of sway bar end links for the rear, but I'll have to order another pair. Eventually I'll get around to it..it just wasn't as big as a priority as the front end links.
Stay tuned for my results!!
03-14-2016, 02:29 AM
#62
Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: UT
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: l98 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 373s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Nice work on the suspension! Hope that'll tighten things up and the sound deadener quiets things down a few dbs.
03-14-2016, 09:25 AM
#63
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Washington-state
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I'll eventually do the under carriage with sound deadener. Mainly to prevent further rust but also to help against more nvh from harder bushings. From owning a fourth gen and a third, it seems like my third gen is more prone to rusting for some reason.
03-16-2016, 09:36 AM
#64
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1992 Camaro Z28 25th Anniversary
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Did you ever figure out the source of this problem? i have the same deal in my 92z28. did replacing all of those parts fix it?
03-17-2016, 11:22 AM
#65
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Washington-state
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
After I bleed my brakes today, I'm going to inspect everything and make sure all the fasteners are tight. I have a sneaking suspicion it's something with my steering like a bad drag link or tie rod. I might need help to have someone turn the wheels while I'm under it feeling and listening.
03-17-2016, 07:41 PM
#67
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Washington-state
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
03-17-2016, 08:32 PM
#68
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Washington-state
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Test Drive Update:
Energy Suspension:
So these bushings are very harsh like everybody tells you. I think I get probably about 15% more road noise in the cab. But I think it is definitely worth using poly bushings and they are so much more "tight" around corners and little bumps. The suspension articulation seems very precise--which is great! When I go around corners I feel like the handling would allow me to go much faster. The only downside are my tires as I think the rubber is very hard and old.
KYB Shocks:
These new shocks work excellent! I tested multiple times over 20ft' speed bumps and the short little parking lot speed bumps. Rebounding over the speed bumps are almost instant. Both ends of the car settle very quickly. Best of all, I don't get the noise of the bushings binding/creaking when articulating the throw of the control arms.
One thing as a side note for the rear LCA bushings...these also transmit more powertrain noise too. Almost to the point where I feel like I need to inspect the rear end or pinion. It's a very typical sound for a bad bearing it seems. For instance, when I'm driving and the pinion is driving the ring gear you can hear a rough sound resonating in the cab--but when I have it in neutral it's silent going down the road. It's also similar when engine braking hearing the bearings. Maybe this is just a special case to me but I do feel like I need to inspect the pinion and make sure there's no weird play in it as well as the carrier. It could be coming all the way from the transmission too I suppose.
Energy Suspension:
So these bushings are very harsh like everybody tells you. I think I get probably about 15% more road noise in the cab. But I think it is definitely worth using poly bushings and they are so much more "tight" around corners and little bumps. The suspension articulation seems very precise--which is great! When I go around corners I feel like the handling would allow me to go much faster. The only downside are my tires as I think the rubber is very hard and old.
KYB Shocks:
These new shocks work excellent! I tested multiple times over 20ft' speed bumps and the short little parking lot speed bumps. Rebounding over the speed bumps are almost instant. Both ends of the car settle very quickly. Best of all, I don't get the noise of the bushings binding/creaking when articulating the throw of the control arms.
One thing as a side note for the rear LCA bushings...these also transmit more powertrain noise too. Almost to the point where I feel like I need to inspect the rear end or pinion. It's a very typical sound for a bad bearing it seems. For instance, when I'm driving and the pinion is driving the ring gear you can hear a rough sound resonating in the cab--but when I have it in neutral it's silent going down the road. It's also similar when engine braking hearing the bearings. Maybe this is just a special case to me but I do feel like I need to inspect the pinion and make sure there's no weird play in it as well as the carrier. It could be coming all the way from the transmission too I suppose.
03-25-2016, 06:41 PM
#69
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Washington-state
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
The weird noise clunking when turning has maybe gotten a little worse. I found it to be the strut mounts. Although the rubber looks good in the strut mount, the bearing doesn't spin nice and smooth. I can feel the "brinelling" of the bearing race from the mount.
I guess there will need to be a part II to this suspension/steering replacement.
But that's fine. I was able to find a second pair of hands to help me look at all the components when turning the steering wheel.
I guess there will need to be a part II to this suspension/steering replacement.
But that's fine. I was able to find a second pair of hands to help me look at all the components when turning the steering wheel. 
07-12-2016, 11:17 AM
#71
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Before summer hits this year, I want to replace the steering and suspension components on my third gen. One of the things I noticed last year when turning somewhat sharp is I hear this "popping" sound in the passenger side front wheel. Most of the time is when I'm backing out and turn the steering sharp. I'm thinking it's the lower ball joint but can't really tell (I jacked up the side and could not pull or tug on the wheel in up or down movement). Another thing I looked at were the strut mounts on both side. As far as I can tell, the rubber looked very good--it just had some caked on dirt I scraped off. After further inspection, I'm thinking the shocks were replaced at some point recently. The brand looks like "SensaTrac" I think? The bouncing/rebound I think is fairly bad as I would want to replace the shocks/struts.
At any rate, I think it's time to replace some parts. My budget is $300 for all new steering components and both shocks and struts. I'm hoping to NOT go over that.
* Inner/outer tie rods (x4)
* Center link
* Idler arm
* Lower ball joint (x2)
* Shocks (x2)
* Struts (x2)
In the first pictures below, you'll see the strut mounts rubber. I'm not sure how else to check these other than the rubber looking good/bad. I don't see any Zerk fitting to grease any bearing--not sure. The other pic you'll see the steering components and how nasty they look. And then lastly, you'll see the "SensaTrac" shocks/struts that are installed all around. They look fairly new as I think the previous owner replaced them before because they are definitely not stock, right?
Last question, Is there anything else that could contribute to the "popping" sound when turning? The ONLY other thing I think it could possibly be is the lower control A-arms bushings? They didn't look too bad as the rubber bushings seemed okay. I guess I could try tightening up the bolts just to make sure.
At any rate, I think it's time to replace some parts. My budget is $300 for all new steering components and both shocks and struts. I'm hoping to NOT go over that.
* Inner/outer tie rods (x4)
* Center link
* Idler arm
* Lower ball joint (x2)
* Shocks (x2)
* Struts (x2)
In the first pictures below, you'll see the strut mounts rubber. I'm not sure how else to check these other than the rubber looking good/bad. I don't see any Zerk fitting to grease any bearing--not sure. The other pic you'll see the steering components and how nasty they look. And then lastly, you'll see the "SensaTrac" shocks/struts that are installed all around. They look fairly new as I think the previous owner replaced them before because they are definitely not stock, right?
Last question, Is there anything else that could contribute to the "popping" sound when turning? The ONLY other thing I think it could possibly be is the lower control A-arms bushings? They didn't look too bad as the rubber bushings seemed okay. I guess I could try tightening up the bolts just to make sure.
But I never do a front end job without also at Least cleaning and repacking. The wheel bearings . at any sign of wear or pitting id replace them with name brand.
07-13-2016, 12:15 AM
#72
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Washington-state
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '96 Camaro-Vsux -- SOLD, '84 Z/28
Engine: 3.8L, 305 SBC
Transmission: 4L60E, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08s, 3.23s
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
I replaced the wheel bearings and rotors. I learned it's my strut mounts that are popping. I'm done driving it for a while till I get new tires. My left rear tire broke a band and has a nasty bubble. So....all new tires needed! !
07-13-2016, 02:35 PM
#73
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Front Suspension/Steering Replacemnt (and rear shocks)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mygta87
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Wanted
2
07-30-2014 08:51 AM
patricklav
Suspension and Chassis
9
01-23-2012 08:18 AM
