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Okay guys. Just got my Formula 350 back and now trying to fix some of its issues.
It used to pull to the right and I thought it was just a misalignment until few months later, and a few shops around (those few told me they can't do it since this car needs a special tool for ligament) this one shop showed me what's wrong. The frame where the steering box is sitting on was cracked. So, had it fixed. Had a shop weld it back for me and it seemed like a good job, BUT, he told me something I don't remember exactly but it's about the steering wheel not being straight.
Now that the frame is welded, I took it back to the shop that saw the problem for an alignment.
They said the steering wheel cannot be centered. He believes 1.) Car got into a wreck and bent the frame 2.) Steering column didn't get splines lined up correctly 3.) steering column is bent.
He wasn't sure on which.
I asked them to try to align the car and get it straight as possible and so he did and it costed $70.
Didn't feel any difference when I drove it though.
Before adjustment:
Left front: Camber - 0.3*
Caster - 4.7*
Toe - 0.27*
Right Front: Camber - 0*
Caster - 5.1*
Toe - .35*
After adjustment:
Left front: Camber - .3*
Caster - 4.7*
Toe - .04*
Right front: Camber - .1*
Caster - 5.1*
Toe - 0*
The steering wheel, if driving straight, instead of pointed at 12, it's pointing at 10.
And I think that's way far off.
Sorry if it's the wrong thread. It's been awhile since I've been in the forums.
But please help me out.
Is it okay to just remove the steering wheel and put it back straight?
Or is there any way I could adjust it by messing with stuff by the steering box?
Those arrows are strictly for the purpose of properly installing the SIR coil (aka airbag clock spring) and have absolutely nothing to do with steering wheel alignment.
I haven't pulled an airbag wheel off in several years and have forgotten how large the holes are for the horn and airbag connectors. Is it even possible to install it that far out and still connect the horn and airbag harness?
The top end of the steering shaft (as shown in picture) should have a witness mark on it. Same with the steering wheel, next to where it goes over the shaft should also have a witness mark.
I've seen them both as a hash or slash like mark and a dimple (round punch).
Line them up when installing the steering wheel. Then adjust the tie rods to center the steering. That's all there is to it.
In the picture there appears to be a mark on the top end of the shaft at about 11 o'clock. Out of focus so hard to tell.
In the picture there appears to be a mark on the top end of the shaft at about 11 o'clock. Out of focus so hard to tell.
RBob.
Yeah, there were marks. There are missing teeth on the spline supposedly on 12 and 6 o'clock mark but whenever my wheels are straightened out the marks are on 10 and 4.
Originally Posted by Lurbie
I haven't pulled an airbag wheel off in several years and have forgotten how large the holes are for the horn and airbag connectors. Is it even possible to install it that far out and still connect the horn and airbag harness?
Originally Posted by Ron U.S.M.C.
If the front wheels are not absolutely strait when installing the steering wheel perfectly "strait up and down" there will be a problem.
I would start there.
I installed a new steering wheel and broke the horn wire that came with the install kit. Couldn't figure out exactly how it should go. Lol
I had to buy a new steering wheel to get it back on straight. Can't put the same wheel back because the teeth doesn't line up with the mark on the splines.
Car drives straight now, except one I drive at speed, there seems to be play on the steering that makes me have to turn it counter clockwise by about an inch and a half to keep the car going straight, but I could keep turning it back and forth (pointing the wheel at 11:30 and 12 repeatedly) without the car moving drastically.
On low speeds, really low speeds, the steering is accurate. Weird.
Originally Posted by RBob
Line them up when installing the steering wheel. Then adjust the tie rods to center the steering. That's all there is to it.
How do I adjust the tie rods on this?
I know how easy it is with the other new cars but this one seems to have something different.
If you only moved the steering wheel it should not need adjusted again. and the play is most likely in steering box if the alignment place didn't tell you your tie rods or ball joints are worn out
to adjust tie rods there is 2 pinch bolts on the sides of adjustment sleeve. loosen bolts and turn sleeve. but if you don't know what you are doing don't touch it.
If you only moved the steering wheel it should not need adjusted again. and the play is most likely in steering box if the alignment place didn't tell you your tie rods or ball joints are worn out
Steering box? Is it the adjustment that's located on top of it, or could it be a failing box?
Originally Posted by Amillionoh7
to adjust tie rods there is 2 pinch bolts on the sides of adjustment sleeve. loosen bolts and turn sleeve. but if you don't know what you are doing don't touch it.
Would I need to take the nut off that's connected to the wheel?
I was the one who changed the tie rods before getting it aligned so I might have the idea. Not a super mechanic but I hope to figure it out.
what "special tool" is needed to do an alignment on these cars? i did mine in my garage with string, jack stands, a level, a carpenter's square, a tape measure, and a small pipe wrench..
The special tool holds the strut tower in place while they get the caster/ camber set. Save having to repeatedly tighten and loosen the mounting bolts while adjusting. i don't think any car has had that type of adjustment for a while so not many places have the tool.
02-02-2016, 01:46 PM
